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Ford Mustang 1964 1/2 Convertible 1/16 from the Coupe AMT kit: the Indy 500 Pace Car


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Hi again chaps,

 

I found a more simple way to get the headlight frames. If - like me - you use a Braun Oral B electric brush, you know these color rings. Well, picture yourself that they have nearly the required size!

They just need to be a bit smaller. Easy, you cut a portion and glue with CA (the CA joint is nearly invisible):

 

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Sometimes, everyday objects may help greatly the modeler. Personally, I will rather use finally these brush rings rather than my Copper ones. And now that this decision is taken, it is clear that thinning the ring must be done prior to cutting and glueing it, what will ease a lot the thinning job...

 

Good evening, O

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Hi guys,

 

I have just got today the GSW Chrome in its paintbrush version (the airbrush version, the most promising imho should arrive in a few days). 

This paintbrush version, as I expected, really looks like the Molotow LC, and that is why I look forward to get the airbrush one, that should allow to get - if it is as great as Rex says - an awesome Chrome on large parts such bumpers, without needing any Clear Cote. If it is so, we will have definitely a revolutionary Chrome product…

For now, I have used the paintbrush version to paint the headlight frames (my color Braun OralB rings), and also the Chrome portions of the central Chrome trim with the horse.

I will post pics tomorrow, after the full product setting.

Let's recall that, like with the Molotow LC, this paintbrush version is dedicated to small pieces, and that to get a nice Chrome with reflection effect, the paint must be applied by tapping of medium / generous inputs. 

 

In the meantime, let's take a look at the close-up below showing my little cups (10 mm diameter) in which were placed a drop of each product (Molotow LC and GSW Chrome):

 

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The difference is (waiting for more definitive conclusions) though quite subtle and the Molotow LC remains a very good option on small parts. 

 

To be followed...

 

Cheers, O

 

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Hello chaps,

 

As promised something due, here are below the pics I just made, confirming that the paintbrush version of the GSW Chrome is probably today the best choice to get a convincing Chrome on small parts. For wider/ longer ones, there are definitely better options, waiting for the airbrush one...

 

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Thanks to GSW, to Barbatos Rex for his very good You Tube channel, and to Urshimato who suggested the latter above in the thread!

 

Cheers, O

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Hello guys,

 

I got yesterday the airbrush version of the GSW Chrome, but I was much too tired back home, after an exhausting pro working day, to do anything.

But just this morning, I began my tests. What did I want to test?

Of course, compare the results between the Chrome Alclad (my Chrome painting reference until now) and the new GSW Chrome, after Barbatos Rex recent tests ever mentioned above.

But as the Gloss Black base is very important too to get the best results, also between the Tamiya TS-14 (my reference until now) and the "new" Tamiya LP-1 Lacquer Paint, that I recently bought . Indeed, using the TS-14 is not very convenient, as you have to choose between 2 options that both have inconvenients:

- if you use it from the can, it is very simple, but you have to take a lot of care with masking, because the spray is wide since you have to hold the can about 30 cm from the object (you can get drops up to 10 cm around the object)

- if you spray from the airbrush, you can spray from a lower distance but it is the transfilling from the can into the airbrush that will cause projections.

 

So, back to the bench, let's see first the results of the Gloss Black base first: let's precise that the LP-1 was sprayed 2 ways:

- unthinned (just a drop of Tamiya Lacquer Paint Retarder, supposed to enhance the shining)

- thinned with the LP-10, still with a drop of TLPR.

Finally, as we know it is an important parameter in painting , let's precise the humidity: 53% (OK)

 

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This pic can't restitute faithfully the differences but you can trust me, here are my conclusions:

there is a huge difference between the TS-14 (incomparably better) and the LP-1 in term of shining, state of surface and even depth of Black. This LP-1 is for me a real disappointment. Of course, I could have polished and buffed the LP-1 painted spoons, but I decided to go on like this. 

 

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As we could expect, after applying both Chrome (Alclad and GSW), the difference of results is even much bigger following the Gloss Black that was applied first, while it is much lower between the Alclad and the GSW Chromes (one more time, sorry, the pic restitute very partially this difference).

The best results are so got by far with the combination TS-14 sprayed from the can / Alclad or GSW, with a little advantage to the latter, that gives a bit lighter Chrome. Both products give a very nice shine and mirror effect. I did little tests of resistance to scratching and mask removal that didn't show a big difference between both (maybe the GSW was a bit stronger but not sure).
Now if you consider that the GSW is cleaned just with alcohol (Cellulosic thinner for the Alclad) and that the dispenser is more convenient with the GSW (dropwise shedding by simple pressure on the plastic bottle while you have to use a pipette to collect the paint in the Glass bottle of the Alclad), you will understand that this airbrush version of the GSW represents imho a little but real improvement compared with the reference that was for me the Chrome Alclad. 

But to get the best Chrome using paint (let’s recall that some other options exist, such BMF, tin sheet…), the most important parameters remain the initial state of surface and the Gloss Black Base you will use...

 

N.B: I thought it would be interesting to compare results between TS-14 sprayed from the can and sprayed from my airbrush.

So I decided to also apply the TS-14 from my airbrush.

Well, the results are not similar, I don't know why. Is my spraying pressure too low (it was 20 psi for this test)? Of course I could improve the result of the airbrush sprayed version by polishing buffing it but even like that, I don’t achieve getting the same superb Gloss Black that spraying from the can provides.

The best way to get the best Gloss Black base without needing any Primer and no more buffing remains spraying it directly from the TS-14 can. In some situations, it won't be a problem (to get a nice Chrome on separate bumpers, fe). But for some other ones, a very careful and painstaking masking job will be necessary. But you will be rewarded by getting finally an awesome Chrome, especially with the new GSW. 

 

I also would like to know what Rex recommends as Gloss Black Base. In a previous video, he seemed to be very happy with the Spaz Stix one but I can't order this product (not available in France) and anyway, if I remember correctly, it was with a can too. I will send an email to Rex about that, as, thanks to Urshimato, I could get Rex email.

 

Thanks for watching and waiting for your potential remarks

 

Cheers, O

 

 

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Hi again,

 

Now back to my build, after the tests of my previous post. I decided to first (so many to do yet!) rework my left front tyre:

 

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N.B: - of course, a coat of Gloss Coat (Microscale Gloss) will be applied before applying the decal

- if this custom decals works as I hope, the same will be done on the 3 other wheels...

 

And this morning, after a full night setting for the LDF:

 

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N.B: if you want a Satin finish with the Microscale Satin, don't thin it. If you want a brighter finish, thin with a little water (the more water the brighter).

 

Cheers, O

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Hello,

 

I don't know how my left front wheel could be so affected by the painting job I did to fix the "devil spot", but the fact is there, it was affected.

I not only had to redo the tyre job (it is now OK and even better as I showed just above), but also the wheel trim.

I first tried to improve the existing one, but the result was poor.

Then I decided to use the 2nd kit one (that will definitely will have been very useful).

I first had to remove the previous. Happily, it had been glued with CA, and leaving a few hours the CA remover, I could do that rather easily.

Then came the moment to redo the patient job I had done long ago (p. 5 and 6 of the thread, an eternity...):

 

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I will still have little corrections to do with the toothpick and with Microbrush, as I did August 15, 2018. Holy patience...

 

Cheers, O

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Hello,

 

I showed in a previous post the improvement brought to the tyre, with the inscription Firestone 500 made from custom decal. Here is below a comparison between the reference (the original tyre), my 2018 version and my last one:

 

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I explained in the same post that the same improvement should be brought to the 3 other wheels. But I also said that I had to do touch-ups with a brush to get this final result, because the letters lacked contrast. Yet as I don't want to remove each tyre from its rim, it means that I have to increase the latter before exporting the pic in Photoscape X. That is what I just did:

 

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I have just printed on the Clear custom decal the pattern (3 items) and applied LDF. In a moment, I should be able to apply the decals on the 3 tyres. In the meantime, I have covered the old inscription with Black (Vallejo) and later with the Micro Gloss Microscale...

 

Cheers, O

 

 

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12 hours ago, Mr Mansfield said:

That tire writing looks really good. How do you print white on decal paper?

Thanks a lot, Mr Mansfield. 

Notice that the color is not White but rather Gold.

Anyway, I could as well print White I suppose.I exported my close-up in Photoscape X (usable with Mac, but most of such Apps are for Windows)... 

 

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and then cut the areas all around the inscription just by clicking on them:

Then, I saved the file (.png).

This file was exported in Word to be sized and then printed on a Clear custom decal (there are 2 kinds of custom decals, Clear and White and in this case, it is the Clear that is mandatory).

Hoping this will help...

 

Cheers, O

 

N.B: Pity, my attempt to enhance the latters by increasing the contrast and turning the letters lighter did not work. On the Black background (tyres), they are even less visible than the first ones. This means that I will not avoid paintbrush corrections, what will be a huge challenge if the tyres are not removed from the rims...

 

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5 hours ago, Totally Mad Olivier said:

Thanks a lot, Mr Mansfield. 

Notice that the color is not White but rather Gold.

Anyway, I could as well print White I suppose.I exported my close-up in Photoscape X (usable with Mac, but most of such Apps are for Windows)... 

 

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and then cut the areas all around the inscription just by clicking on them:

Then, I saved the file (.png).

This file was exported in Word to be sized and then printed on a Clear custom decal (there are 2 kinds of custom decals, Clear and White and in this case, it is the Clear that is mandatory).

Hoping this will help...

 

Cheers, O

 

N.B: Pity, my attempt to enhance the latters by increasing the contrast and turning the letters lighter did not work. On the Black background (tyres), they are even less visible than the first ones. This means that I will not avoid paintbrush corrections, what will be a huge challenge if the tyres are not removed from the rims...

 

Just a thought, how about printing the gold on white decal paper along with printing the black background to match the tire. The lettering will be more opaque, thus not affected by surface color. After coating with semi gloss or Matt, everything should blend nicely.

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6 hours ago, Lvp said:

Just a thought, how about printing the gold on white decal paper along with printing the black background to match the tire. The lettering will be more opaque, thus not affected by surface color. After coating with semi gloss or Matt, everything should blend nicely.

Thanks Les for this interesting suggestion. We had a family meeting at home today with 15 people for our son’s birthday so no time for model making but I will try your approach.

Thanks too Escaflowne for the kind words

 

Cheers, O

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Hello Olivier 
I have another solution for your consideration. Your home printer will be making a gold from CMYK which is not a true metallic, have a look under magnification and you will see your gold is made up of many dots. My suggestion is to create a decal with the Firestone lettering reversed out so that you are printing a black band with see through letters on clear decal paper. You then apply gold to the tyre and your decal becomes basically a mask, allowing the gold to show through the clear areas. I hope this makes sense. 
Wayne

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8 hours ago, Urshimato said:

I hope this makes sense. 

It does, dear Wayne, it does, and I thank you for this very clever and looking promising suggestion. I am gonna try it as soon as possible, first on only one tyre. I have ever begun, cutting the letters and digits Firestone 500 instead of the Black background in Photoscape X, exporting the file in Word, printing it and applying LDF on it.

And in parallel, I just applied a coat of Vallejo 878 (Old Gold) on the concerned area of the tyre. Tomorrow morning, I should be able to show the result...

 

Cheers, O

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Hello guys,

 

A modeler asked me one day in a PM (not so long ago) why I was spending so much time to post in a forum such Britmodeller, especially since I had so few time for my hobby. I answered that first, I was happy to share my passion with other modelers, and also that sometimes, a modeler could give me a useful suggestion, allowing me to learn something new, and to improve my build.

Well, it is precisely what just happened with Urshimato (Wayne) suggestion.

I have just applied the Firestone decal and the result is:

 

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So, I have to do the same on the 3 other tyres...

 

Cheers, O

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41 minutes ago, Urshimato said:

I cannot take all the credit for this as it was Lvp that planted the seed in my brain with his decal suggestion. I just took it a bit further. So thanks to him also you have your desired result. 
Wayne
 

100% OK, Wayne, and a big thanks to Les too!

And thanks to Britmodeller, a great forum that allow modelers all over the world to share ideas and passion!!

 

Cheers, O

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1 hour ago, Totally Mad Olivier said:

100% OK, Wayne, and a big thanks to Les too!

And thanks to Britmodeller, a great forum that allow modelers all over the world to share ideas and passion!!

 

Cheers, O

A clear example of two or more heads being better than one

Excellent results

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13 hours ago, Totally Mad Olivier said:

Hello guys,

A modeler asked me one day in a PM (not so long ago) why I was spending so much time to post in a forum such Britmodeller, especially since I had so few time for my hobby. I answered that first, I was happy to share my passion with other modelers, and also that sometimes, a modeler could give me a useful suggestion for my build, allowing me to learn something new, and to improve my build.

+++

Cheers, O

It's like with 007 James Bond. Once in the hands of the villain Bond never get's shot straight away (though being logical it would ruin the story and end the series, but that's not the point), because the villain needs somebody who can fully apprehend and acknowledge the ingenuity of his evil plan! His (the villain's) henchmen and female companions in bikinis may be able to applaud, but they are not able to fully apprehend just how good he is.

 

And thus comments and cheers from the audience assembled here do push you to the next level (of total madness).

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Hello chaps,

 

All my "Firestone 500" inscriptions are now replaced, and the result is fine (I can say it all the more because it was not my idea):

 

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But I have to share a new hassle I had with this build. Indeed, if my progress was so slow since my return from vacation, it is not only because I had very few time for my favorite hobby. If you remember, I had ordered just before Klear Kote Gloss, mine being quite old even if giving though nice results (see my August 7 post p. 64) and I got a new version of this varnish (less thick and more yellow). 

Well, back home (12 days later), I was sure that the Gloss applied with the latter would be totally set and I applied the sanding/ finishing/ buffing job I myself exposed in the previous post of the same page... and incomprehensibly, I had big problems, the varnish seeming still wet.

In parallel to the work done on the tyre, I tried again and again... and now, I can tell you that I will never use again this f... Gloss Coat!

I have to redo completely the painting/ Gloss varnish job on both trunk and frunk, with another bad consequence: the outside air inlet, made from 3D and grafted in my body (post of January 15, 2019) with repeated sanding steps, was a bit more damaged!

I tried to repair it:

 

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but the best would probably be to remove it completely and graft it again, to get the same (or even better) nice result.

I tried to recover the stl file Daniel (dbostream) sent me then by PM. I could find several ones, but I don't know why, I could not export any of them in Lychee Slicer.

That is why, yesterday, I sent a PM to Daniel about that...

 

N.B:

- I don't know if there was a specific issue in a batch (we may suppose so...) but one thing is sure, the varnish I used is just to throw away. I will come-back to my old Klear Kote (it is in old jars that we make the best jams)...

- I have I also have understood why my left front wheel and tyres were so affected by the painting job when I was struggling against the devil spot: I had used (for the first time) the Tamiya extended masking tape (see the pic of July 29 p. 64). It was an error, the plastic bag sent the paint cloud back to the wheel. I recommend to be very careful with this product ref. 87164!

It is obviously very important for me to at least understand the reason of my failures...

 

 

Cheers, O

 

 

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