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Ford Mustang 1964 1/2 Convertible 1/16 from the Coupe AMT kit: the Indy 500 Pace Car


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Oliver

The progress with the seats is a beautiful recreation or the original. Thanks to you,  I am also ordering some of " your" :winkgrin:,   Tamiya light curing putty- it looks like an interesting product, especially for the fast curing.  

 

Créez, émerveillez-vous, inspirez ou faites une sieste, votre choix  :bye:

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11 hours ago, Prop Duster said:

I am also ordering some of " your" :winkgrin:,   Tamiya light curing putty- it looks like an interesting product, especially for the fast curing.  

Hi Steve, Hello to all,

 

I am sure you will enjoy this product. You will just need a LC lamp (some are rather cheap, made in China, and though work very well). Fast curing is a big advantage, as you will see by yourself.

Here is a new little update with my front seats:

 

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More as soon as possible...

 

Cheers, Olivier

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Hello chaps,

 

A new little update: the final necessary corrections on my front seats have been done, a new coat of WW (a bit different from the body one but the same than the rear bench one, of course) applied and a coat of Satin varnish (Microscale thinned with water, giving the same nice semi-Gloss finish than on the rear bench) applied in turn.

After that, the Rosie were used to figure the seams.

I have now to focus on the side hinges (that allow the passengers to take place on the rear bench).

 

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N.B: the Chrome hinges will be just slightly visible doors closed...

 

Cheers, Olivier

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Hi Olivier. I see you’re still improving on details. Looking great.

You mentioned gloss paint.

I’m mighty pleased with the AK 2K Ultra Gloss clear

 

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Varnish/ hardener mixed 3:1 and I then add the same amount (4 parts) thinner. 

I do at least three layers and then sand to flatten out the surface. After that one more layer.

Even if you have lots of orange peel, you can sand it flat and then polish (I use the three polishes from Tamiya) and get a mirror finish (see below)

 

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I have used one complete package for my 1:8 scale Alfa and I think, now that I am a bit used to it, I could even do better than that (because I will not need so many iterations to arrive at this result.

Oh, and cleaning the airbrush is a real easy task with this stuff. Less work than cleaning after using acrylics.

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Regarding the Alfa model you mentioned, Jörgen (Bengalensis) built it and created a very detailed WIP her:

 

Looks like a great kit.

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9 hours ago, Pouln said:

Oh, and cleaning the airbrush is a real easy task with this stuff. Less work than cleaning after using acrylics.

Thanks a lot Poul for this hint. You get a beautiful mirror effect indeed and I will order and try this AK Ultra Gloss soon. 

What do you use to clean your airbrush? Just water? 

It would be interesting to do an extensive comparison between several Gloss varnishes available, as I did to get the best Chrome effect much above in this long thread.

This gives me the transition for my last update, as after improving them, I applied the Chrome still using my favorite method, precisely, on the side hinges:

 

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N.B: several pics were used to improve the side hinges. Here are 2 of them:

 

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The side hinges will be assembled on the front seats this afternoon. Then it will be time to assemble the seats on the chassis...

 

Thanks too for the info about Bengalensis Alfa Roméo. I will take an eye to his build...

 

Cheers,   Olivier

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As always you have turned a pigs ear into a silk purse with those front seats Olivier, stunning work as we have come to expect from you

 

   Stay safe                   Roger 

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7 hours ago, Totally Mad Olivier said:

What do you use to clean your airbrush? Just water? 

I use the thinner included in the set. Just a very small amount will do. After that I use alcohol to finish the clean but that might not even be needed.

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7 hours ago, Hamden said:

 

As always you have turned a pigs ear into a silk purse with those front seats Olivier, stunning work as we have come to expect from you

 

   Stay safe                   Roger 

1000 thanks, Roger, always here to encourage me so kindly (and funnily, I learnt the expression with the pig’s ear 😂)

 

1 hour ago, Pouln said:

I use the thinner included in the set. Just a very small amount will do. After that I use alcohol to finish the clean but that might not even be needed.

 Ok, thanks Poul for these precisions…

 

Before assembling the side hinges, I noticed 2 things:

- seams were missing on the top of the backseat (very visible on the old Pony Car of my previous post): I just added them using the double 0,4 mm Rosie riveter.

- a defect on the inside panel of the passenger backseat, requiring a complementary sanding, painting and varnish job (on the way...)

 

More soon, Olivier 

 

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Hello again,

 

A new update this evening, as my front seats are now assembled. I used the Tamiya Epoxy Putty for this particular assembly (the seats are glued on the fabric carpet):

 

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Considering the long setting time for the TEP to get hard (about 12 h min.), I won't touch my model until tomorrow...

 

Cheers, Olivier

 

 

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Thanks Jeroen (and all)!

No, the roof top is for a bit later.

I just assembled body and chassis together:

 

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N.B: of course, the Black paint was also (and especially) applied from underneath...

 

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More soon...

 

Cheers,   Olivier 

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Hello chaps,

 

I was far from my bench this we, but Daniel (dbostream) could send me the STL file for the handles (1000 thanks to him for this new contribution) to assemble on the inside panels of the rear bench:

 

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N.B: the advantage of the 3D here is that you can be sure you will get 2 identical handles...

 

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To be followed...

 

Cheers, O

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Hello to all,

 

The TS 14 and the Alclad Chrome have been applied on all my handles (notice that I have more than necessary, so that I will be able to choose the best pieces). But the Alclad Chrome is a very fragile paint, and just handle them to glue them in place could affect the Chrome paint. That is why I wanted to apply a Gloss varnish that should bring the necessary correction for this delicate step. But up to now the trials I had done with several varnishes affected more or less the Chrome effect, turning it into a rather satin look. The good results I got with the Micro Satin thinned with water on my seats (with a rather bright effect) leaded me to try the Micro Gloss on my Chrome parts:

 

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Cheers, O

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Hello chaps,

One of my 3 point stars, assembled on my hub caps, has vanished, probably wore off while I was doing the painting job on the logo below (I should probably have done this delicate painting job before the assembly chassis/ body).

 

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A hard blow, I will have to make it again, by referring to my own job on p. 6... 

Too tired to begin that today (I spent nearly 1 h trying to find the lost piece), I should begin tomorrow...

The modeler's life is not a long quiet river...

 

Cheers, O

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Hello again,

 

After the little moment of discouragement, I have begun to redo my lost 3 point star, exactly as the first time:

 

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N.B: the decal should better in quality than the first version (the letters MUSTANG are neater). I could place new decals over the previous ones. That is why I printed several units...

 

Edit: printing this logo on Clear custom decal was an error, as the portions in white were clear. Happily, I had also printed as well on a White custom decal, and it is the latter that was finally used.

 

To be followed...

 

 

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Hello again,

 

The Tamiya WSP being set now, a delicate sanding job is required, that must not remove the 289 logo:

 

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N.B: I am not sure at all this printed logo will really be convincing to represent the Chrome logo. We shall see...

 

Cheers, O

 

 

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Oliver, my apologies for missing many  of your recent  up dates. But, as I have now caught up with your progress.  May I say, astounding work and recovery from the problem parts.  I hope many are picking up on your technique of creating the small sanding tools, very ingenious and worthwhile.  I now have that information in my modeling notes for use at my earliest opportunity.  

Modèle sur, oh puissant artisan.

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No need to apology, Prop Duster!

That said, thanks a lot for your kind words. I hope my little tips will help other modelers, especially unexperienced ones…

Now let's see if my idea of custom decal was good or not:

 

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Conclusion: 

considering how difficult it is now to paint these logos while chassis and body are assembled (the model is starting to weigh on, 326 g precisely, and it is also rather big in hand), I think the result is better using first the custom decal and only after the Molotow LC, carefully. This custom decal would have been probably unnecessary if I had painted these logos previously...

Now, to the question: should I do the same for the other logo (Mustang horse and Mustang inscription)? the answer is: I will try (the decal job is ever on the way) first on the right side (this logo is really bad on this side, better on the left one).

 

To be followed, consequently…

 

Cheers, O

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Hello chaps,

 

I have completely removed the (bad) logos  (horse and "Mustang" inscription) using my 1,5 mm sanding pads, then Tamiya Compounds, then a thin coat of WW, then a new thin coat of H30 Gloss varnish, then Compounds again to get a bright surface.

Then I had to get the perfect size for both logos, get clear backgrounds with PhotoScape X, then print them on a Clear custom decal, then apply LDF, then apply the decals and finally applied by places small touches of Molotow LC to enhance the Chrome effect.

A long and patient work so, but it was worth it imho:

 

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Cheers, O

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Hello again,

 

Rather glad with the result I could get for the logos right side, I have to now do the same left side.

But in the meantime, I wanted to go on with another part of my build: the air inlet on the dash cap, while assembling the dashboard on the body will be one of my next steps:

 

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Cheers, O

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