Totally Mad Olivier Posted April 7, 2021 Author Share Posted April 7, 2021 Thanks a lot Steve for these kind and encouraging words, and also for your suggestion. I admit though that it seems to me difficult now to implement it, for at least 2 reasons: - my wheels are now strongly glued in place (this delicate job should have been done before the wheels assembly, while I had not noticed this difference of tyre shape) - the AMT tyres are made of soft plastic, kind of rubber, and the graft on this material from a 3D resin made would be difficult (the best would be to completely build the tyres from 3D printing, in this case). Now the problem would also have been to model in Fusion the tyres, something that would require skills that I clearly don't have for now... Cheers, Olivier Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted April 8, 2021 Author Share Posted April 8, 2021 Hello to all, tip of the day: I said somewhere above that I liked a lot the Alpha abrasive from Albion Alloys, that are ready to use thin foam adhesive sanding papers. Pity, they exist only in 3 grit: 180, 240 and 400. If you want to make your own foam adhesive sanding papers, you can just use such a double sided tape. More, this solution will be cheaper than the AA product, even using a very good sanding paper such the Tamiya one: These sanding pads will be helpful to improve my wheels housings bulges... Cheers, Olivier 2 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted April 11, 2021 Author Share Posted April 11, 2021 Hello chaps, A new update: I now have to do the same left side. I hope the experience of this right one will allow me to spend a little less time: Cheers, Olivier 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted April 14, 2021 Author Share Posted April 14, 2021 Hello to all, 2 main subjects in this post while I go on working on the outside wheels housings and bulges left side, as I did right side. 1) I was not totally happy with the wheels arche I made last March 26, and thought I could try to get a real arched housing using my pro thermoformer. I used 2 wheels (with tires) coming from my 2nd kit, assembled together (a pic will be added this afternoon so that this explanation will sound more clear) to get a wide volume. Then I added a coat of thick dsa on the tires tread to get the necessary empty space between the wheels and their housings, and used a clear sheet (about 0,5 mm thickness): With the thermoformer, I could so get the desired shape, that was cut in 2, while the middle portion was removed: The previous arche on the right rear wheel will be removed and these more faithful arches will be assembled. 2) While Daniel and me are having exchanges by PM about the inside air inlet, I noticed that the pic we both used as a reference has misled us. I show again this top view pic: This misleading pic suggests that the air inlet has a trapezoid shape, and the stems inside too. Yet this is wrong, as the pic below shows. The air inlet is in fact rectangular and the stems are all parallel (more, it is obviously much more simple to model for Daniel). So, the only modif of the first air inlet design to do will consist in getting wider stems (and narrower slots, consequently) in the outer portion, so that my 3D printer will be able to print correctly this challenging element... N.B: my own air inlet made in 2D using a custom decal, and using the same pic, was so wrong too... This shows one more time that we must be careful with photos, that may mislead us... More soon, Olivier 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted April 16, 2021 Author Share Posted April 16, 2021 Hello to all, N.B: - the main setting difference is the layer thickness: it was 35um, I tried 20 um for the next printings... - even if of course I will do my best to still improve this result, I consider it ever better than my 2D air inlet, meaning that even if I can't get a better result, my first version will be replaced by this one. More soon, Olivier 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted April 17, 2021 Author Share Posted April 17, 2021 Hello to all, I am still mainly focused on the air inlet, with several printing trials, modifying the settings (especially the layer thickness) and the supports, getting better and better results, as the below pics show: N.B: initially, when I was doing a 3D print, I each time cleant the resin tank, losing a lot of time and a bit resin. Unless you totally fail your print (what never happened since I have this Elegoo Mars 2P - which I am very pleased -), you imho don't need to do that. The resin may stay several days without problem in the tank*. You just have to replace quickly the cover and take care to avoid too much light when you remove the latter. Printing has so become much more simple for me, and I don't hesitate to repeat trials, what gives me the opportunity to, little by little, become a bit more skilled (maybe a really competent guy would get even better results) with this other approach of model making. I remember Harvey's comments much above about this 3D approach. Maybe I am wrong but I think it will become soon unavoidable, with amazing results for an inexpensive investment, what doesn't mean of course that we will forget all other techniques. Consider the size of this air inlet (compared with a 1 ct piece) and tell me if you think any other option would be able to represent it as faithfully. Only the final result matters... This means that I will have to get familiar with Fusion 360. Up to now, I delegated the modeling the parts for this Mustang (the outside and inside air inlets to Daniel, the handles to Michael). I really don't mind more competent in Fusion to take part to my build but in the future, I will need to be less dependent in others good will (thanks again a lot Daniel!). I admit I would prefer to focus on Fusion after the Mustang end of build, as I don't have enough time to do both (my progress is ever too slow). That is why I could ask to Daniel, or maybe Roy, or yet any good will modeler skilled with Fusion, to help me getting nice parts for this build. Cheers, Olivier * it is also not a problem to leave several hours a printed model in the printer (my next attempt will end at about 0:50 tonight). If I wake up in the night, I will just go and stop it, while the following steps (cleaning in US bath with Resinaway and alcohol) will be done only tomorrow morning. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pouln Posted April 17, 2021 Share Posted April 17, 2021 Hi Olivier, you might want to try various angles. In this case, since the grating is so fine, I would try to print the thing perpendicular to the build platform You wont need any supports for the thin “stems” as they will be printed in the z-axis. You’ll just need supports for the lower outside boundary to go in between the build platform and the grill itself. This might (I’m not sure here) give less chance on deformation of the “stems”, which I believe is caused by the supports. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted April 18, 2021 Author Share Posted April 18, 2021 11 hours ago, Pouln said: Hi Olivier, you might want to try various angles. In this case, since the grating is so fine, I would try to print the thing perpendicular to the build platform You wont need any supports for the thin “stems” as they will be printed in the z-axis. You’ll just need supports for the lower outside boundary to go in between the build platform and the grill itself. This might (I’m not sure here) give less chance on deformation of the “stems”, which I believe is caused by the supports. Hello to all, hello Poul and thanks for this suggestion. First, I show you my last attempt with the last settings: the main difference is the use of very thin tip and arms supports. As this printer is great with its monochrome screen (new technology allowing to leave much more light to go through), all the supports, even very narrow, are though finely printed. There were also less supports for this trial, and so their removal was much easier and faster (it remains a very delicate job). You will see below that these changes of supports parameters had very good consequences on the final result. The other changing parameter was the layer thickness, that was only 5um (the minimum). From this point of view, I didn't notice any improvement vs a 10 um one, while the printing is nearly 2 times longer (about 7h30 for a so small object!): Now, regarding Poul suggestions: OK, I will do a last attempt, placing 4 items prepared in the same way (simple copy from a new air inlet preparation with even narrower supports on the stems) in different angles on the build platform. I am not sure I will get really differences between them but why not try? As there was imho no significant difference between the 10 and 5 um, I will go for 10. On the other hand, even if it sounds as a good idea to place the object perpendicular to the platform, I don't think it is a good idea, as the printings fail when the objects are not tilted. To avoid the supports to be visible on the thin stems, the best is imho to use narrower ones, as I did. Notice that, of course, no supports were placed under the tiny center stems, only around... Cheers, Olivier P.S: another way to try improving could be to use a HQ resin, as mentioned above. The Formlabs ones (there are several kinds) are very expensive without me to be sure I will get a better result with the latter. But considering the very low amount of resin I use for my prints, especially since I avoid cleaning my resin tank after each print, 1l would probably last at least 1 or 2 years (or more) and may be considered in such conditions as a good investment... I could try to contact a Formlabs adviser, show him the challenge and ask him which one, in their range, he would suggest in order to get the best result possible... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted April 18, 2021 Author Share Posted April 18, 2021 Hello again, I just made a new preparation of my air inlet, for this new (and probably last) attempt with my Anycubic White resin. I took even more care using very narrow supports (the ones supporting the stems must be perfectly centered under the latter), and with a layer thickness of 10 um, as mentioned above. I made 4 copies of this object and placed them in different positions (I am not sure that is what Poul meant but it will be interesting anyway to see if the results are exactly the same or not): N.B: - there is a repair tool, requiring an account on Autodesk. I didn't use it, as I had problems to find back my password (I had ever created an account for Fusion, an Autodesk software). I don't know if this repair tool could be helpful or not. - to be honest, if I was not sharing with you my build, and if Poul had not suggested to place under different angles my items, I would ever have applied my last air inlet on my dash cap, considering the result living up to my expectations. More soon, Olivier Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbostream Posted April 18, 2021 Share Posted April 18, 2021 Can you also try one perpendicular to the build plate like Pouln suggesteed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted April 18, 2021 Author Share Posted April 18, 2021 8 minutes ago, dbostream said: Can you also try one perpendicular to the build plate like Pouln suggesteed? Hello Daniel, the new print is ever on the way, that is why this trial with the object placed perpendicular to the plate will only be possible later (at about 1:30 PM). However, as I said above, the items need to be tilted to get a good printing. As you kindly made this air inlet for me, there is nothing I can refuse you, and so OK, I will do that print as soon as possible, but I am rather sceptical (I just want to be wrong 😉). You told me in PM that you have a friend experienced in 3D printing, can you ask him his point of view about such a suggestion, please? ATB, Olivier Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbostream Posted April 18, 2021 Share Posted April 18, 2021 (edited) 5 hours ago, Totally Mad Olivier said: Hello Daniel, the new print is ever on the way, that is why this trial with the object placed perpendicular to the plate will only be possible later (at about 1:30 PM). However, as I said above, the items need to be tilted to get a good printing. As you kindly made this air inlet for me, there is nothing I can refuse you, and so OK, I will do that print as soon as possible, but I am rather sceptical (I just want to be wrong 😉). You told me in PM that you have a friend experienced in 3D printing, can you ask him his point of view about such a suggestion, please? ATB, Olivier My friend had the same suggestion as Pouln that is why I think it would be interesting to see the result. Of course it is your decision. Edited April 18, 2021 by dbostream Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted April 18, 2021 Author Share Posted April 18, 2021 Hello Daniel, Poul, and all, the last attempt, with 4 items placed following different positions, as expected, did not show any improvement. As Poul and Daniel suggested, I decided to change the tilting angulation, with 2 air inlets on the platform, both being placed more vertically (one being nearly perpendicular): I am a bit surprised, Daniel, to see your friend, accustomed to 3D printing, was OK with this suggestion. I remember big fails when I placed the out air inlet vertically. Unless things are different with this new generation printer, it is a general rule to place objects to print more or less tilted. This new print is on the way (it is a long printing, 4h30, as the vertical position means much more coats). The sentence in about 2h15... To be followed, Olivier Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted April 18, 2021 Author Share Posted April 18, 2021 Hello again, Waiting for the verdict of this last attempt, I glued in place my rear housings showed above using a thermoformer. Unlike what I did for the first attempt, in which I used a portion of plastic card, I decided to glue the arches on the chassis rather than on the inside wall of the body: I should so get a Black background all around my rear wheels, without any gap... Thanks for watching, Olivier 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pouln Posted April 18, 2021 Share Posted April 18, 2021 1 hour ago, Totally Mad Olivier said: Hello Daniel, Poul, and all, the last attempt, with 4 items placed following different positions, as expected, did not show any improvement. As Poul and Daniel suggested, I decided to change the tilting angulation, with 2 air inlets on the platform, both being placed more vertically (one being nearly perpendicular): I am a bit surprised, Daniel, to see your friend, accustomed to 3D printing, was OK with this suggestion. I remember big fails when I placed the out air inlet vertically. Unless things are different with this new generation printer, it is a general rule to place objects to print more or less tilted. This new print is on the way (it is a long printing, 4h30, as the vertical position means much more coats). The sentence in about 2h15... To be followed, Olivier Olivier, the reason I suggested to print perpendicular was that you would not need any supports attached to the fine grating. You’d just need supports to the lower edge of the grill. That would make it easy to remove the supports but, more importantly, there would be no influence from the supports on the fine grating that is within the grill. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted April 18, 2021 Author Share Posted April 18, 2021 1 hour ago, Pouln said: Olivier, the reason I suggested to print perpendicular was that you would not need any supports attached to the fine grating. You’d just need supports to the lower edge of the grill. That would make it easy to remove the supports but, more importantly, there would be no influence from the supports on the fine grating that is within the grill. Dear Poul, Pity, supports are necessary on the outer stems (I recall no supports were placed on the tiny center ones) because of their lenght even if the objects is placed perpendicular and, as you will see below, the result was not better (and even a bit less good) than with a less vertical position: It doesn't matter, I just lost a very little bit of resin and a little time, and now, we know that this is not the key. This less good result does not question the great ones I got for such a little and challenging piece. I will probably try to call a Formlabs advisor and maybe will make a trial with an HQ resin. And in the meantime, I store with care my best printed air inlets, waiting to be painted. Thanks again Daniel for your help! Cheers, Olivier Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pouln Posted April 18, 2021 Share Posted April 18, 2021 Pity indeed, Olivier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted April 19, 2021 Author Share Posted April 19, 2021 Hello to all, I left yesterday night my last prints, suggested by Poul and Daniel, on my working table. This morning, while I took a last look at them before putting them in the trash, I noticed that they were a little better than just a few minutes after the cleaning and drying with air: This means that the total setting may tighten very narrow stems, probably a bit distorted by the cleaning. I also had a last look to the bottom part of these prints, to admire how my 3D printer achieved printing finely the very thin supports: Today, if I have a little time, I will call Formlabs. Thanks for watching, Olivier 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted April 19, 2021 Author Share Posted April 19, 2021 Hello to all, I called Formlabs today. The advisor was not sure at all I could get a better result with the Formlabs resin, especially since I used another brand's printer. I decided to call my dental technician, thinking he used a Formlabs printer. In fact, he explained me he found a better printer (whose name I have forgotten). He will print the air inlet for me (I sent him the STL file). I wonder if with his HQ printer and resin, he will be able to get a better result than me, I hope so of course... In the meantime, I go on working on the housings and bulges left side. And I noticed it was necessary to add a coat at the front of the chassis to ensure a good centering when body and chassis will be assembled together (hopefully soon): N.B: the pic only shows the front left wheel but it is the same for the 3 other ones. N.B: I had met the same problem last March 25 for the rear right wheel. Happily, I had achieved removing the wheel from the axis quite easily. I hope it will be the same... A few hours later: And still a bit later: Cheers, Olivier 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted April 22, 2021 Author Share Posted April 22, 2021 Hello to all, A little update, as I fight to get an acceptable result for my bulges around the arches: To be followed, Olivier 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted April 25, 2021 Author Share Posted April 25, 2021 Hello to all, I spent not less than 3 hours to improve the previous result. For the sanding job, I used my adhesive sanding strips showed above (April 8, same page) with several dies (2, 2,5, 4 and 5 mm) and also the Tamiya sanding sponges. N.B: I am still very glad with my altered Badger 150 cup, that is now very convenient and safe, the rubber joint allowing to mix quite vigourously the paint/ thinner in the cup without worry. To be followed... Cheers, Olivier 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hamden Posted April 25, 2021 Share Posted April 25, 2021 Your body shell is looking superb now! Are you going to paint the wing logo's? Stay safe Roger 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted April 25, 2021 Author Share Posted April 25, 2021 3 minutes ago, Hamden said: Your body shell is looking superb now! Are you going to paint the wing logo's? Stay safe Roger Thanks a lot, Roger, for your constant support! Yes, I intend to paint them soon... Stay safe too Olivier Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted April 25, 2021 Author Share Posted April 25, 2021 Hello again, N.B: 1 h minimum time is required for the 2nd coat, as recommended by Alclad on the Klear Kote bottle. I will wait a bit more... Later: It is good for the modeler to take a step back. In this instance, as I was riding my e-bike for a tour in the nice Esterel, I thought that it was in fact the right time, before a new varnish coat, to apply the missing decals on my body. Indeed, they will also need to get a medium varnish coat for the buffing to come on the latter. That is why I begin this decal job, hoping I will have less problems with the letters custom decals "PACE CAR" than when I applied the "INDIANAPOLIS 500" ones on the doors (see above on p. 27). But first I will focus on the good AMT decal "Official" (it just should be a little bigger): Warning: on the right side, the inscription "Official" takes place on the rear wing: N.B: I had a conflict (totally fixed now) between my thermoformed housings and the bottom of my bench: Thanks for watching Olivier 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pouln Posted April 26, 2021 Share Posted April 26, 2021 That body is really looking great, Olivier. Much improved compared to the original (in the kit). 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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