Ghost69 Posted March 23, 2021 Share Posted March 23, 2021 Hello Olivier This kind of comparison of photos is complicated to make because the 2 photos are certainly made with different lenses and depending on the distance and focal length used, this can lead to distortions (subject I know). Even if you find that the photos look the same, you can see that on the photo of the real car you can see the tip of the grille whereas on the photo of your model you can't see anything at all! That you are right, ok I think so too but be careful ... Manu Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted March 23, 2021 Author Share Posted March 23, 2021 54 minutes ago, Ghost69 said: Hello Olivier This kind of comparison of photos is complicated to make because the 2 photos are certainly made with different lenses and depending on the distance and focal length used, this can lead to distortions (subject I know). Even if you find that the photos look the same, you can see that on the photo of the real car you can see the tip of the grille whereas on the photo of your model you can't see anything at all! That you are right, ok I think so too but be careful ... Manu Hello Manu, I know we must be careful comparing photos of our builds with 1:1 subjects. But even if there is a little distorsion, the difference of ride height on the rear area (while it looks good on the front one) between my build and the real car pic, makes me say I am right decreasing it a bit there. Carefully, I will decrease it of only about 1 mm (the minimum, imho). A quite subtle change, but that will represent better the low car that the Ford Mustang was. Olivier 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted March 24, 2021 Author Share Posted March 24, 2021 Hello chaps, Of course, it is just a beginning, I have to make corrections on my corrections, and then to recreate a wider bulge around the wheel arche... Now I thought I had a good profile view (on which I was inspired to make the wheels) of the Pace Car, a good way to limit distorsion: To be followed... Olivier 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Six97s Posted March 24, 2021 Share Posted March 24, 2021 What is the diameter of the kit tyres? It should be a hair over 40mm (6.95-14 tyre, 25.3" OD). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted March 24, 2021 Author Share Posted March 24, 2021 27 minutes ago, Six97s said: What is the diameter of the kit tyres? It should be a hair over 40mm (6.95-14 tyre, 25.3" OD). Hello and welcome on the thread... The tyre is 43 mm diameter. If it should be 40 mm, it confirms that it is 7,5% too wide... But I will do with, no problem. I may accept a little compromise for this aspect too. I just want to avoid a big difference between the original and my replica... Thanks for your contribution, Olivier Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jochen Barett Posted March 24, 2021 Share Posted March 24, 2021 5 hours ago, Totally Mad Olivier said: Hello and welcome on the thread... The tyre is 43 mm diameter. If it should be 40 mm, it confirms that it is 7,5% too wide... But I will do with, no problem. I may accept a little compromise for this aspect too. I just want to avoid a big difference between the original and my replica... Thanks for your contribution, Olivier Olivier, is everything alright with you? Is this some kind of secret distress signal to us because somebody is holding you hostage? How can we help? 😉 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted March 25, 2021 Author Share Posted March 25, 2021 Jochen, thanks for your kind offer, it's OK, I am not hijacked except maybe by this amazing project that indeed, turns me a bit (if not totally, hence my nickname) mad... An exemple? this new merciless comparison, to check my rear right wheel arche: After the last little corrections on the arches, I will have to recreate the bulges. Notice that anyway, they were too pronounced on the AMT kit (see above the pics)... And of course, then, the same will have to be done left side... Olivier 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jochen Barett Posted March 25, 2021 Share Posted March 25, 2021 The wheels are a bit too large and the wheel arches are "wrong", so maybe even you may opt for the compromise? Would there be enough material to shave off 1/2 millimeter from the tires? Or would that bring tires and wheel hubs out of proportion? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted March 25, 2021 Author Share Posted March 25, 2021 7 hours ago, Jochen Barett said: The wheels are a bit too large and the wheel arches are "wrong", so maybe even you may opt for the compromise? Would there be enough material to shave off 1/2 millimeter from the tires? Or would that bring tires and wheel hubs out of proportion? The wheels are a bit too large indeed, but finally not as much as I thought (7,5% more is nearly in the error margin). I think I may get an acceptable compromise without shaving off 0,5 mm from the tires, even if like you, this idea crossed my mind. If you consider that from a tire to another, dimensions may vary, no one will be shocked looking at my build's wheels, especially since I fix the arche problem. But talking about the relation wheels/ housing, there is another aspect that I haven't considered enough, legitimately focused on the arches size on profile view. In a previous post (last Sunday at 17:03, p. 56), I said the axles should be 88,88 mm (front and rear), referring to values I found on the net. Yet it appears that at least the rear axle must be shorter than that. To say so, I base myself not on values but on the visual perception in 3/4 view: I have glued my rear right wheel definitely with an epoxy glue (Araldite) after this correction, and carefully, I will do first the housing correction left side before maybe decreasing still a bit the rear axle lenght (I first need to make the housing correction before checking in 3/4 view, as extending the arche modifies the perception on 3/4 view). The same will be done with the front axle, and so it is possible that I reduce here too the axle lenght. One day (23/01/2019, p. 24, long ago...), Dan (Propeller) said that "a model is not strictly the reduction on the chosen scale, the judge of peace being first and foremost our eye". It was about my blue strips on the hood, and I didn't suscribe to such a point of view in this case. But this could be true in some other cases, and especially for the axles lenght. I will trust more on my eye perception for the wheels position inside the housings than on values I found in the net. Here is how appears now my rear right wheel, and I begin to really like it like that (except the missing bulge on which I will come-back later): That's all for today... Cheers, O 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted March 26, 2021 Author Share Posted March 26, 2021 Hello chaps, My rear right set wheel/ arche being OK for me, I focus again on the front right one, first on profile view, with a new comparison: And 30 mn later: N.B: opening more the arche on its rear portion would have a bad consequence: the bulge would be too close from the Mustang logo. Now that the profile view is acceptable ( some finishing sanding is though necessary to get a neat limit), I will check on 3/4 view the relation wheel/ housing (as I did on the rear right wheel) but it looks good at first sight. Furthermore, I begin to think about the way I could recreate the bulges. An option would be to graft the 2nd kit's ones, but this would mean a lot of time to adapt it perfectly to the body... Some suggestions, guys? To be followed, Olivier 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted March 26, 2021 Author Share Posted March 26, 2021 Hello to all, In the penultimate post, I showed a 3/4 view of my rear right wheel. I forgot to mention something important: AMT did not consider necessary to provide an inside housing for the wheels at the rear: As I have to scratchbuild this housing, the first thing to do is measuring its dimensions: The diameter is about 50,5 mm, meaning a circle of 50,5 x 3,14 = 158,6 mm and so a half round of 158,6 : 2 = 79,3 mm The width is about 10,4 mm. Cheers, Olivier 5 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeroenS Posted March 26, 2021 Share Posted March 26, 2021 Adding the inside of the wheel arch is a good decision. For your bulges, styrene strip and putty? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted March 27, 2021 Author Share Posted March 27, 2021 13 hours ago, JeroenS said: For your bulges, styrene strip and putty? Thanks Jeroen for this suggestion and for your encouragements. The problem with strip styrene is that my arches have a very rounded shape, while strips such Evergreen ones are straight. The bulges width is about 3 mm, the thickness is about 1 mm - the Evergreen that could do the best could be the ref. 126 (3,2 x 0,5 mm) - (a 1 mm thickness would be too thick imho to be bended as required). Another option would be to create them on Fusion 360 (I would need some help for that), print them and glue them on the body. And another, as I mentioned above, would be to cut them on my 2nd kit and graft them on the wheel arches. But my arches were extended as in width as in height, (appropriately imho) and so the grafts would not totally match to the new shape. In any case, it means a new challenge... Cheers, O A little bit later: I had another idea, coming from your strip styrene suggestion. I remembered I have in my stock of modeling products, these Master Tools 0,3 mm plastic circles. One of them (the 50 mm outside diameter) is not far from matching (it is too wide, but of course, may be cut) with my arche shape: I even could, instead of using the latter, try to cut in plastic card custom borders. But will remain the necessity to add material (Putty, as you suggest) to create the bulges. And getting a regular shape for the latter would not be easy... Conclusion of this "investigation": imho, for now, the best option to get regular custom bulges around my arches is to create them and print them in 3D... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted March 27, 2021 Author Share Posted March 27, 2021 Hello again, Definitely, this 2nd kit will not have been unuseful... Before applying this "graft", I have to check the relation wheel/ housing, using a 3/4 view, as I did above for the right rear wheel: N.B: I don't consider my work over on this right front bulge. Merciless comparisons will be done, to improve it (the transition with the body will probably have to be softened, as the close-up below shows... Was it worth it to do all that job? Imho yes, but I admit these are subtle improvements, and probably my embedded wheels would not have shocked anyone. But that's precisely what's make the difference and makes of you a demanding modeler. Now extending these arches and adding this graft was a real modeler's job, not unpleasant at all. But now too, if the 4 wheels could magically be done as well, I would certainly sign... Thanks for watching, Olivier 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeroenS Posted March 27, 2021 Share Posted March 27, 2021 A good idea to use the second kit. Like you said, most people wouldn't have noticed if you hadn't done it, especially when viewing the model by itself. But everyone has his own way of modelling and this definitely is yours 😀 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted March 28, 2021 Author Share Posted March 28, 2021 Hello to all, I leave for a moment my wheel arches and bulges to come-back on the printed handles. I decided it was time to remove the sprues. A very delicate job... Cheers, Olivier 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jochen Barett Posted March 28, 2021 Share Posted March 28, 2021 OK, good to see you back in the "take no prisoners" mode. 🙂 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted April 6, 2021 Author Share Posted April 6, 2021 Hello to all, I have been far from my bench for a few days, but if there was no update for more than 1 week, it is also because I fight to get an acceptable result with my right wheels housings bulges. But what could be a good new for my build happened this week too: I had contacted a while ago Daniel (dbostream) by PM to ask him if he could try to 3D model my inside air inlet, that I had simplified making it in 2D with custom decals (see p. 34). We had several exchanges and finally, Daniel could send me (as I was in holiday) the STL file (a first trial for now) of this air inlet. Here it is with the created supports in Lychee Slicer: Tonight, I should be able to print it, and the result will be showed here (and sent to Daniel) of course... Cheers, Olivier 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbostream Posted April 6, 2021 Share Posted April 6, 2021 Let's hope it is printable. If it is there are still some improvements I want to make to the model if I can figure out how to do it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pouln Posted April 6, 2021 Share Posted April 6, 2021 I was wondering: where are Oliviers updates? No, kidding aside. You are creating a lot of extra work for yourself, because now, after adding the “bulges”, you have to the painting of the body all over again. And I do seem to remember the struggles you had to get matching colors. I hope that will be one of the easier parts. 😏 Anyway, you keep improving this model, so ultimately, you will be very happy with it. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted April 6, 2021 Author Share Posted April 6, 2021 3 hours ago, Pouln said: I was wondering: where are Oliviers updates? No, kidding aside. You are creating a lot of extra work for yourself, because now, after adding the “bulges”, you have to the painting of the body all over again. And I do seem to remember the struggles you had to get matching colors. Dear Poul, You made me laugh with the first part of your message (I am aware I share a lot my updates, a bit too much probably...) More seriously, honestly, the hardest won't be the complementary body painting job. The problems I met were with the hood, that did not match despite the fact that the color used was the same were due to an optical phenomen imho. On the other hand, a good integration of my grafts means indeed a lot of extra work. Was I right to extend the wheels housings? If you consider the time spent and the fact that probably only a few sharp eyes would have noticed the problem (the wheels too embedded in their housings), maybe the answer is no. If it was to redo, would I redo this extra work? Not sure... But in the same time, if I may overcome the challenging step that is this graft integration, I think it will represent a real improvement to my build, with wheels "normally" embedded in their housings, as you finally suggest yourself. The printing is on the way, but as some post processing will be necessary, I should probably show the result tomorrow... Good evening to all in the meantime, Olivier 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pouln Posted April 6, 2021 Share Posted April 6, 2021 3 hours ago, Totally Mad Olivier said: If you consider the time spent and the fact that probably only a few sharp eyes would have noticed the problem (the wheels too embedded in their housings), maybe the answer is no. There you go. You are not doing all this for a few sharp eyes (other’s eyes). You are doing it only for yourself. For your own satisfaction, knowing that you did your utmost to arrive at the result you want. So keep on doing whatever you think is necessary to arrive there. 3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted April 7, 2021 Author Share Posted April 7, 2021 13 hours ago, Pouln said: You are not doing all this for a few sharp eyes (other’s eyes). You are doing it only for yourself. For your own satisfaction, knowing that you did your utmost to arrive at the result you want. So keep on doing whatever you think is necessary to arrive there. I fully agree, Poul, and it is also by overcoming challenging steps that you make progress... Another challenge will definitely be the printing of this air inlet. The first trial failed, but I think I understand why: 1) I did'nt notice but Lychee Slicer used default settings instead of the ones I had previously chosen (for my handles). Among them, the layer thickness was 0,05 mm. For the next trial, I will use 0,03, what will mean a much longer printing time but most likely a much better result. 2) I didn't take in consideration that the slots on the outer portion of the inlet air are wider than the stems. I need to create much more supports for the latter. Maybe though it will be necessary to cheat a bit on the Fusion design, and get wider stems at the expense of the slots (we shall see with the 2nd trial) 3) For the same reasons, I modified the object position in the slicer, to add a maximum supports on this challenging outer portion. For this 2nd trial, I placed 2 items of my inlet air (so I will get 2 ones): for the first, I used the Auto support mode (I am rather sceptical for this one), while I used the manual support mode (for which I tried to apply the above guidelines). Notice that this first trial showed though that this printer should be able to print rather nicely the very narrow slots of the central portion, that Daniel represented so faithfully, especially with better slicing parameters. To be followed... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted April 7, 2021 Author Share Posted April 7, 2021 Hello to all, I made a new trial and the result is better, but with Daniel, we have to find a compromise for the outer stems and slots, too narrow to be printed correctly imho (unless it is possible with a better resin and/ or better settings): N.B: I applied a little Black Panel Line Accent Color Tamiya on the air inlet to enhance the central narrow slots. Thanks for watching, Olivier 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prop Duster Posted April 7, 2021 Share Posted April 7, 2021 Oliver Your persistence and desire to create a "Magnificent Mustang" is paying dividends with every post. The additional fender bulges were a great way to correct the model. re: the wheel/ tier shape ( your post March 27 yellow encircled ) As a thought, have you considered perhaps creating a 3D print of just the outside of tire sidewall as in the form of the 1:1 tire? Then affix that new shape on to the model tires outsides That way you could have the outside shape you need to show the depth between the tier and the wheel without having to print a complete tire. I shall now return to my corner and wait quietly. 😏 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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