Ford Mustang 1964 1/2 Convertible 1/16 from the Coupe AMT kit: the Indy 500 Pace Car

[JeroenS]

Maybe you should move the "merciless comparison" phase forward a little... Should save you time on re-doing stuff... 

 

Me, I just skip that phase alltogether 😉

[Totally Mad Olivier]

Poul, TEP is a short for Tamiya Epoxy Putty...

 

16 hours ago, JeroenS said:

Maybe you should move the "merciless comparison" phase forward a little... Should save you time on re-doing stuff... 

 

Here too, you are right, Jeroen (like for the fragile parts to assemble lately).

But, to be true, I had not planned (contrary to what my sentence "When I begin to be quite close from truth, it is time for a merciless comparison" suggests) to do the above merciless comparison, relying on the many measures I had done (and that were partially and surprisingly contradicted, such the too height top armrest).

I would definitely earn time anticipating more, as you say rightly, but I am a pretty drudgy, who goes on his build on the wire and moves forward step by step (with often 2 steps forward one step back 😉).

I have maybe a bit improved this tendency with experience, but it is difficult for me. I think I'm a better arranger than planner. That is why the sentence "only the final result matters" fits me quite well... 

If I decided to make a second build of this same car, there are many things that I would plan much better. It is a very interesting modeling experience to make a second build, I did that with my last one, the 1/48 Nieuport Ni 11. The first one was not bad at all, but the 2nd one (only the latter has a thread in Britmodeller) is much better, with many improvements in many aspects and many traps avoided. It is though at the beginning a much more simple build than this 1/16 Ford Mustang. It is easy for me to imagine what it would be for the latter. Btw, why not? 😉
 

Cheers, Olivier

[JeroenS]

@Totally Mad Olivier You know, I think for all of us goes that our personalities show in the way we build a model. It's probably better to accept this and make it work, rather than try to adopt a method which does not suit you and will only frustrate. For myself, I find that it's not possible for me to think everything through beforehand, so I just dig in and fix things that have gone wrong afterward. Much the same as you, only with less attention to detail 🙂 

[Totally Mad Olivier]

15 minutes ago, JeroenS said:

@Totally Mad Olivier You know, I think for all of us goes that our personalities show in the way we build a model. It's probably better to accept this and make it work, rather than try to adopt a method which does not suit you and will only frustrate. For myself, I find that it's not possible for me to think everything through beforehand, so I just dig in and fix things that have gone wrong afterward. Much the same as you, only with less attention to detail 🙂 

I absolutely agree with you , Jeroen, but I think we may try to work on one's weak points, to improve them, without much thought, as this is just a hobby, after all...

 

Cheers, Olivier

 

Btw, can you recall me how you mention someone else in the thread, as you just did with me, please? I wanted to do that with Poul's comment and didn't remember... Thanks in advance

[Hamden]

 

Just type in the display name such as @Totally Mad Olivier and as you type it will list the names similar just pick the one you want

Hope that helps.

More nice work on the Mustang

 

    Stay safe       Roger

[Totally Mad Olivier]

Thanks Roger but sorry, it doesn't sound clear to me (probably due to my english):

 

 

Cheers, Olivier

[JeroenS]

59 minutes ago, Totally Mad Olivier said:

Thanks Roger but sorry, it doesn't sound clear to me (probably due to my english):

 

 

Cheers, Olivier

Here's how it works: type an "@" without a space after it. Instead, type the screen name of the person you are trying to mention. In my case, after the "@" you type "jeroens". Once you start typing a list will appear, and the more you type the shorter the list will be. You can select someone from the list with the down arrow or the  mouse, or you can just type the full name. Sometimes when you type a wrong key and go back the list does not immediately come back and you have to start over. 

[JeroenS]

1 hour ago, Totally Mad Olivier said:

I absolutely agree with you , Jeroen, but I think we may try to work on one's weak points, to improve them, without much thought, as this is just a hobby, after all...

True! No harm in that at all. Seeing how someone else does things can be inspirational. 

[Totally Mad Olivier]

@Jeroen Thanks a lot, Jeroen, now I understood! 😂

 

ATB, Olivier

 

[Prop Duster]

@Totally Mad Olivier Thank you and @JeroenS . I never knew how to do this either.  Not really sure why  I should do this but as an old guy I don't always get the new  age stuff. 😄

[JeroenS]

1 hour ago, Prop Duster said:

@Totally Mad Olivier Thank you and @JeroenS . I never knew how to do this either.  Not really sure why  I should do this but as an old guy I don't always get the new  age stuff. 😄

Well, the reason why you can do this is that the person you mention gets a message that he or she is mentioned somewhere and they can go and take a look.

 

By the way Olivier, you mentioned the wrong Jeroen, I am the one with an S behind the name. No worries, I don't think the other one is active on the forums.

[Totally Mad Olivier]

@JeroenS !

 

😉

[Totally Mad Olivier]

Hello chaps,

 

In this Thursday morning, a new little update, as several necessary corrections have been done:

 

 

 

N.B: the "hook" comes from little swivels bought at the supermarket.

 

 

 

Cheers, TMO

[Pouln]

On 1/27/2021 at 6:29 AM, Totally Mad Olivier said:

Poul, TEP is a short for Tamiya Epoxy Putty.

Ah, could have guessed it. Thanks Olivier.

[Totally Mad Olivier]

Hello chaps,

here is below a new little update:

 

 

I want to add tips about the Uhu LC CA (there are other brands but I didn't try to use them): I ever said all the good I think of this new kind of CA glue. But this glue is VERY SENSITIVE TO LIGHT. If you want to take the best of it (its quite liquid - but not too much - consistency is ideal in many situations and particularly for capillarity glueing), you must take a lot of care with the light in your bench, the best being to work under a minimum light. I experienced that this glue kept in the dark may be used even after 20 mn (and probably much more), what is an advantage. It means that if you can find a solution to handle it in dark conditions, and keep the glue out of light, you will avoid a premature curing and get the very best of this product. Here is how I proceed for my part:

 

 

 

 

 

Cheers, TMO

 

[Totally Mad Olivier]

Hello chaps,

 

Very sunny Sunday at St Raphaël today, meaning E-bike and walking, but though a new little update:

 

 

N.B: I had problems with my previous US tanks to clean my airbrush when cellulosic thinner was required (as with Surface Primer, in particular), because these tanks were made of plastic, that was damaged by the cellulo thinner.

I could find on Amazon a little US tank (DK Sonic DK-80) that is fine for such a thinner. I used it for the first time today. Price: 54€, I highly recommend if you use cellulosic thinner (Alclad, Super Metallic, Surface Primer, Mr Surfacer etc.):

 

 

 

 

Cheers, TMO

[Totally Mad Olivier]

Hi chaps,

 

 

Of course, for very narrow areas, such the (dark) portion behind the ashtray, a more precise tool must be used:

 

 

Cheers, TMO

[Hamden]

 

Thanks for the tip Oliver, will file away for future use

 

  Stay safe           Roger

[Pouln]

Yes, these sponges are really nice. Good tips. Thanks Oliver

[Totally Mad Olivier]

Hello chaps,

 

 

 

 

N.B: the bolt on the right side was very difficult to unscrew. In fact, it was just impossible on the machine I first bought on Oupsmodel. I had to send it back (free of charge) to the seller. Pity as it was in sale (67,35€ with shipping). 

 

This machine should be useful, especially to sharp tools, remove quickly the CA after use on flat end tools etc.

I could finally get this machine for 80€ at my local seller, Plein Gaz, and the optional polishing set (5 polishing tools, just ordered) is about 32€ on Amazon.

 

And now a little update, my rear bench being nearly over (except the details to add...):

 

 

N.B: the light enhances the grain effect and gives a brighter look, in normal light, it looks better...

 

Cheers, Olivier

[Escaflowne]

A very intresting subject, nothing is forgotten

Thanks for tips 👍

Edited February 5, 2021 by Escaflowne

[Totally Mad Olivier]

Hello chaps,

I was far from my bench Thursday and Friday (a small escape at Valberg, a pretty winter sports resort in the Alpes Maritimes for snowshoes excursion with my wife and couple of friends, that unhappily made me relapse in the lumbago...) and, as often, coming back, I was finally not very happy with my rear bench. Too much grain  (too much paint in my mix with alcohol thinner) and still little defects requiring corrections:

 

 

 

I decided to rework (sanding with 400 grit sanding sponge above) a bit and apply a new coat of WW. Finding the right ratio paint/ thinner is something difficult, imho. A better ratio with a bit more alcohol leaded to a finer grain and a more satin look, making unnecessary the varnish coat:

 

 

Focus on the riveter alteration:

 

 

N.B:

1) here again, the real aspects of the bench is a bit more mat than what this pic (using flashlights) suggests.

2) let’s recall that the Mustang seats were vinyl, not leather, as this car aimed to be affordable. The aspect of vinyl is imho a bit more bright than leather...

I am aware that this bench is far from being perfect, but I now consider it is acceptable, waiting for  the ever mentioned details to add.

 

Furthermore, I got today razor blades to use with the Evergreen Chopper II (but could be useful in other situations) ordered on Amazon, that, considering the amount (100) are not expensive:

 

 

Link to the razor blades:

https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B01HUJPUOE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Have a nice week-end and stay safe

 

Cheers, TMO

 

[Totally Mad Olivier]

Hello to all,

 

 

 

 

To be followed...

[Pouln]

Meticulous work, Olivier (as always). BMF is indeed quite delicate to work with.

[Totally Mad Olivier]

9 hours ago, Pouln said:

BMF is indeed quite delicate to work with.

Thanks, Poul, and yes, delicate and not necessary good though... Before going further, I applied another recipe: the 0,01 mm tin sheet is thin but not as much as BMF and here, it is an advantage as it allows to get a more regular surface (not perfect but acceptable imho), while the BMF (too bright in addition), enhanced every little defect of my ashtray frame one:

 

 

N.B: my few dedicated "followers" know how I like the tin as versatile material. It appears that, in this situation too, it is probably the best option, in this very thin thickness, 0,01 mm...

 

 

 

N.B: Using now frequently LC materials, that set immediately, I become impatient when a material such the Surface Primer requires hours and hours before being sandable...

 

To be followed as soon as possible 😉