Pouln Posted January 10, 2021 Share Posted January 10, 2021 Ah, looking good Olivier. Although, knowing how you strive for perfection, you will undoubtedly revisit the rear seat at least once (possibly more)😉 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted January 10, 2021 Author Share Posted January 10, 2021 1 hour ago, JeroenS said: About the soft top, what you could do is represent the shape of the mechanism, and then roll a layer of fine Milliput (like you would roll dough) and drape that over the mechanism in the desired shape. You could easily create folds and creases in the material, and smooth it with water, before it hardens. I did the same for my sister's Fiat 500 and it worked quite well. Thanks a lot Jeroen, it sounds as a good option and I will go seeing the way you did that on the Fiat 500. I have to say that I have ever ordered some White adhesive leather similar film, thinking I could represent the mechanism with TEP and then apply the film on it. But your option seems better... 29 minutes ago, Pouln said: Ah, looking good Olivier. Although, knowing how you strive for perfection, you will undoubtedly revisit the rear seat at least once (possibly more) Thanks a lot, Poul. Be sure I will at least once (and possibly more, indeed) Cheers, Olivier 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hamden Posted January 11, 2021 Share Posted January 11, 2021 Your interior looks stunning Oliver you are most definitely raising the bar with this build! Your patience and attention to detail is second to none! Stay safe Roger 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted January 12, 2021 Author Share Posted January 12, 2021 Thanks a lot, Roger, for your always very kind and encouraging words. I have been looking how Jeroen's fixed the problem of the soft top on p. 3 of his thread: Very interesting and very nice result. I admit the first trial I made with the Milliput Superfine were not very happy (difficult to work cleanly). I clearly prefer the TEP for my part. But on the principle, the method seems to be good and maybe the best approach. Several trials will probably need to be done. In the meantime, I have first to still improve my rear bench... Cheers, Olivier Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeroenS Posted January 12, 2021 Share Posted January 12, 2021 If I remember correctly I used talc powder when I rolled the putty, to prevent it sticking to surface and roller. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ghost69 Posted January 12, 2021 Share Posted January 12, 2021 Good evening As much as I know the milliput, which is widely used for figurine work, I don't know the PET (trademark?), but what is it? Thank you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted January 12, 2021 Author Share Posted January 12, 2021 Hello Manu, TEP is a shorthand (abréviation) for Tamiya Epoxy Putty. All the best, Olivier 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted January 15, 2021 Author Share Posted January 15, 2021 Hello chaps, the thread has been rather quiet these last days, due to: - a bad lumbago from last Saturday (been pro working all the week but a few modeling...), not yet OK but getting better the last 2 days. - the fact that I had to make a lot of corrections before showing a new update. For these corrections, I mainly used the LC CA and the Proxxon PS13 sander tool, with tips strongly modified to get a precision sanding tool: N.B: to avoid too much sprayed White Surfacer and consequently adverse sagging, I sprayed with a rapid sweep from a quite long distance (more than 30 cm) and, immediately after each pass, used my airbrush (just air) at high pressure (about 4 psi) to spread the product and allow it to begin drying. In the label, I meant paintbrush, not pencil, of course... That said, this product may also be used with an airbrush. The cleaning of such surfacers is done with cellulosic thinner. Cheers, Olivier 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted January 16, 2021 Author Share Posted January 16, 2021 Hello chaps, I will a bit later show my last update, but first, I have to give you a good new for my build: I contacted a few days ago Jean-Michel Gauthé, my neighbour owner of a beautiful 67 Convertible, who ever gave me a good helping hand for the deflectors and the windshield. I just come-back from a new rdv with him, for a complete check of the side panels, the rear bench but above all for the hood and its top cover. I needed complementary measures and pics. And a few hours later: These beads on the Black bench of Mr Gauthé Convertible 67: And later: To be followed... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted January 17, 2021 Author Share Posted January 17, 2021 Hello chaps, Having to wait the setting time of my last White Surfacer coat and as I could, yesterday, thanks to Mr Gauthé, get many precious infos about the set mechanism/ top cover, I post now the main pics with measures I made. A « top cover » special post: My strategy, to represent this area, should be to represent first the top portion of the mechanism both sides, very simply, and then to apply a thin layer of TEP. The turned edges as we may see on the close-up above (penultimate photo) could maybe be represented using tin wire, as for the circumferential beads. The 0,5 mm Rosie riveter could also be useful to represent the seams. The buttons should be cut in tin sheet using The RP Toolz Rivets maker, like I did on my 1/25 Chevy Bel Air Convertible (except that the buttons will be bigger here, at 1/16). Precisely, the buttons are here 15 mm/ 0,9 mm diameter. Thanks for watching, TMO 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted January 19, 2021 Author Share Posted January 19, 2021 Hello chaps, Here is a new little update, the missing beads have been added: N.B: my rear bench is "too White" for now (due to the White Surfacer on which only 1 coat of WW was applied). Another coat of WW will be applied soon... I thought drawing the ashtray (side view) could be helpful, even if representing it in 3D will be much much more complex: To be followed... 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted January 20, 2021 Author Share Posted January 20, 2021 Hello chaps, A new little update: N.B: the time spent to modify the Proxxon sanding tool is imho worth it. Indeed, the new head will be useful in many other modeling situations... To be followed... 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted January 22, 2021 Author Share Posted January 22, 2021 Hello chaps, A new little update, my ashtrays begin very slowly to take shape, while other corrections are done: To be followed... 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted January 23, 2021 Author Share Posted January 23, 2021 Dear chaps, I have applied a new coat of White Surfacer with my airbrush on the concerned areas of my rear bench. Checking the result, I noticed something I had neglected up to now, a problem of discordance between the door and the side panel. I should have measured the thickness (that should be nearly the same) last time with Mr Gauthé. Indeed, I don't know if it is the lower part of the door that is not thick enough or if it is the side panel that is too much there: A bit later: I here digress for a minute about the TEP handling, now that I begin to have a little experience of this putty material that I love more and more: The other essential element to handle easily the TEP is the petrolatum jelly, that I put on my fingers (gloves optional) and on every surface to avoid adhesion of the TEP, such the tools (spatula), and also the door or the body if you check once the material is not yet hard). Thanks to the petrolatum, the material may be spread in a thin and smooth layer. Personally, I much prefer this putty to others (Brown and Green Stuff, Milliput...). It is pleasant to apply and its light color is a good point. I recall I have no conflict of interest with the Tamiya brand. And about 6 h later: In order to represent as well as possible the junction door/ rear side panel, the pic below should be very useful, showing among others that the side panel wraps slightly the door at the junction, a detail that I missed up to now: To be followed... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted January 23, 2021 Author Share Posted January 23, 2021 Hello to all, As I have to wait the complete setting of my TEP before going on with the junction door/ rear side panels, I focus in the meantime on the cover mechanism on which the top cover will be applied. I first post again 3 important pics with measures made or extrapolated (rule of 3): And now my little update: This general shape of the mechanism OK or nearly so, I want to add some details at the rear of this top arm: Of course, there will be the top cover on this mechanism, and so I just want the latter (I haven't yet decided which material will be chosen even if the TEP is the most probable) to suggest the underlying elements: To be followed... 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted January 24, 2021 Author Share Posted January 24, 2021 Dear all, A new little update on this Sunday morning: The corrections will consist mainly in adding the joint, try to give the slight wrapping of the rear portion of the door by the rear panel, and extend a bit downward the armrest unit, with a step as we may see on the last pic of the penultimate post... To be followed, so... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeroenS Posted January 24, 2021 Share Posted January 24, 2021 Nice work Olivier, those rear seats look very good. Now, try to be more careful, you'll break so many parts that you have to start over 😉 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted January 24, 2021 Author Share Posted January 24, 2021 2 hours ago, JeroenS said: Now, try to be more careful, you'll break so many parts that you have to start over You are right, Jeroen, I am aware it is something that I have to improve. But there were so many handles, checks... I even don't know how these accidents happened... Cheers, Olivier 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeroenS Posted January 24, 2021 Share Posted January 24, 2021 1 hour ago, Totally Mad Olivier said: You are right, Jeroen, I am aware it is something that I have to improve. But there were so many handles, checks... I even don't know how these accidents happened... Cheers, Olivier Well, I don't think you have to improve on anything 🙂 But you could add the fragile stuff at a later stage in the build. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted January 24, 2021 Author Share Posted January 24, 2021 53 minutes ago, JeroenS said: you could add the fragile stuff at a later stage in the build. Yes, that’s precisely what I must improve😉. The problem is that I am too impulsive and when I am glad with a detail on which I spent a lot of time (such the 3D made door handle or the gearbox), I want to put it in place while I should wait the last moment for such fragile parts. You learn from your own mistakes, as they say. Experience should begin to learn me, but my temper doesn’t help. Thank you anyway for this very good and constructive criticism. Cheers, Olivier Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted January 24, 2021 Author Share Posted January 24, 2021 Hello again, When I begin to be quite close from truth, it is time for a merciless comparison. Here is it: Problem: if I want to be very faithful to the original, I have to decrease in height the armrest, while I spent time for the ashtray edges. The other corrections, especially the one concerning the top arm, are less of an issue. That will be OK for today, have a nice evening and stay safe Cheers, TMO 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hamden Posted January 25, 2021 Share Posted January 25, 2021 Although your rear seat area looks great to me (if you hadn't said it was incorrect no one would have known) I'm sure you will not be happy with the result until you have reworked it. As has been said before your attention your detail to second to none, and this replica will be more accurate than the original when it left the assembly line! Stay safe Roger 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted January 25, 2021 Author Share Posted January 25, 2021 Thanks a lot Roger for these kind words. If I didn’t wait to make the necessary corrections on the top arm (decreasing it in height and shortening it in lenght), I am not sure I will do the one relative to the armrest, what would mean lose the little rectangles patiently made... Cheers, Olivier 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted January 26, 2021 Author Share Posted January 26, 2021 Hello chaps, Tip of the day: my scalpel handle having a round shape, it tended to roll and sometimes to fall on the floor, possibly damaging the tip. I placed a piece of TEP at the bottom (no glue, the TEP after 12 h setting time will adhere strongly to the metal): Cheers, Olivier 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pouln Posted January 26, 2021 Share Posted January 26, 2021 On 1/24/2021 at 8:07 PM, Totally Mad Olivier said: Problem: if I want to be very faithful to the original, I have to decrease in height the armrest, while I spent time for the ashtray edges. The other corrections, especially the one concerning the top arm, are less of an issue. OH-Oh. I see a lot of work coming your way to correct the rear of the interior. I’m sure you will get it right in the end. To me it looks already great, but I know you want to make this model true to reality, so there you have it. Lots of work. Nice tip I actully have these magnetic tray and put my knives in there. Maybe it was already asked, but I’m puzzled. What is TEP? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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