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Ford Mustang 1964 1/2 Convertible 1/16 from the Coupe AMT kit: the Indy 500 Pace Car


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Thanks a lot, chaps, your kind words are much appreciated and very encouraging!

 

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So, now, what? I have to think about it, but I could decide to deal with the windscreen, a challenging step, definitely...

 

Cheers, TMO

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Hello to all,

So, I open a new chapter in my build, with the windscreen and its frame. I had ever examined and begun to work a bit on the frame, cutting the hood (the AMT version was a Coupe, I recall), removing the wrong windscreen wipers (posts# 36, 41 p. 2), cutting the frame on top to the right height (post# 46) and the too long lateral arms following Bernard's measures. Here is how this frame and the windscreen appear for now:

 

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Bernard made measure to my request:

 

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but later, we made together many other ones, including this one, that contradicts the 4 cm he said first:

 

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The AMT frame is so much much too thin (about 1,3 mm instead of 4,46!)

 

More soon...

 

Olivier

 

P.S: certainly a very good new for my build, I could find happily (thanks to a patient of mine) the current owner of the Green Convertible 1965 Mustang I was looking for (I had seen her in a vintage cars specialised garage located between my house and my clinic and made some pics - such the wheel in the post# 56 p. 3 -)

He is groundskeeper in a very beautiful housing estate 10 mn from my clinic!

He should bring the Mustang there next Wednesday so that I should meet him and make new pics and measures!

If I remember right, this car has a manual transmission (I could check the gearbox) and the standards seats (Bernard has got the Pony seats) like on the Pace Car I represent.

A really good new...

 

 

 

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Before going on with the windscreen and its frame, little background on the job ever done. Indeed, I wanted to check the relation between my gearbox and the dashboard, as I felt that they were too close together. And I was right:

 

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Of course, the necessary corrections will be done very soon... 

 

Cheers, TMO

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First corrections done. I will take advantage of my rdv with the 65 Convertible Mustang owner on next Wednesday to check everything. Indeed, if the axis of the column and the distance gearbox/dashboard is OK imho now, I am afraid my gearbox goes too high, up to the radio level...

 

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and a bit later:

 

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Though, I go on thinking the gear stick is a bit too long. We shall see next Wednesday... That’s what it’s like when you don’t have the right measures: trial and error and lost time, with the risk to damage the work done...

 

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Thanks for watching and encouraging, TMO

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As I said above, having to extrapolate in the lack of precise measures leads necessary to errors. My gear stick was too far from the dash, not tilted enough (corrections ever done) but also too long. As I also share my hassles, here is what I had to do in order to decrease this lenght:

 

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Waiting for the Gloss Black setting, I prepare the next steps, working on the pics and measures we made with Bernard. Here, the visor:

 

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More soon...
 

Cheers, O

 

P.S: notice that there is only one visor, for the driver. Passenger side, there is, on the Pace Car, a handle instead of the visor:

 

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A spoiler alert would have been kind to those of us who have not viewed the race yet😕.

 

Olivier, note that if you leave the steering wheel at it's current angle, the turn signal lever is at the wrong position -since it does not move in relation to the wheel.

Fantastic effort at this scale!

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21 minutes ago, Lvp said:

Olivier, note that if you leave the steering wheel at it's current angle, the turn signal lever is at the wrong position -since it does not move in relation to the wheel.

Thanks for this precision, Les. I was wondering if it was so and intended to check on Wednesday. In these conditions, I will modify the steering wheel angle, rather than the turn signal lever...

 

Cheers, O

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Hello to all,

 

Today, I had the surprise to find in my e-mail box not less than 13 great pics of the gearbox, under different angles, and the measures I asked to Jean-Pierre Versini. The bad new is that my estimations were wrong in excess (in the post# 1016, I used the rule of 3 with the postulate that the knob was 2,95 mm, yet it is 2,5), and I will probably have to redo the whole gearbox, such the stick, for which I should use a 1,1 mm rod or tube rather than a 1,3 mm one...

In addition to these measures, some other details are very interesting and new for me, such the angle that the stick does with the tunnel (horizontal), the Chrome portion on the lower part of the knob, the rubber ring on top of the boot, the narrower end of the stick under the knob etc...

Here are some of the pics with JP's measures (reduced to 1/16):

 

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A very special thanks to Jean-Pierre for his great contribution. As soon as possible, I will rework my gearbox.

 

Cheers, thanks for watching, TMO...

 

N.B: I forgot to ask Jean-Pierre the lenght of the metal stick, I will check tomorrow on Mr Labalette's Green Convertible Mustang...

 

Last minute: Jean-Pierre made a mistake for the stick diameter (I was very surprised by the measure of 10 mm). He sent me a new e-mail: it is in fact 18 mm, meaning 1,12 mm at 1/16. My stick, 1,3 mm is though a bit too thick... I have modified consequently the 4th pic above.

 

Edited by Totally Mad Olivier
corrections
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Hello to all,

I just come-back from my rdv with Mr Labalette, happy owner of a very early version of the Convertible. I even could drive the car! He left her to me for a couple of hours, and I could so do many complementary pics and measures, in addition to the nice tour I did in the amazing Parc Résidentiel de l'Estérel.

2 regrets though:

- this version is an Auto gear (I expected it would be a manual, and hoped a 4 speed one)

- it is equipped with the Pony seats (I expected it would be classic ones.

 

As a memory, I made these 2 pics with my Tesla Model 3 (the new world) near the Old Lady: I have to admit that my car is much much more pleasant to drive... but I appreciated the power steering of the Mustang...

 

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When I say the Old Lady, it is really the case, I can't the car is not in a very good condition (not visible on these pics). Notice how my Model 3 (though a low car with only 13 cm ride height) seems big compared to the Mustang! I imagine a Model X...

I made about 80 pics and videos during the 1h30 I spent here. You will see some of them in the next pages. Many measures were take, completing the ones made with Bernard.

Anyway, I thank warmly Mr Labalette for his kindness and confidence.

Of course, as for Bernard, Jean-Pierre and all people who gave me a hand, I will offer pics of the finished model...

 

Back to the gearbox to rebuild: as I said above, I forgot to ask Jean-Pierre the stick lenght. As I can't disturb him every day, knowing that the knob is 2,5 mm, I can extrapolate the following precisions, with a little error margin:

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Cheers, O 

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I began to rework my gearbox. The tin plate was simply adjusted by cutting to be about 6,25 mm aside.

The pic below shows my stick taking shape:

 

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I will not detail the painting job, as it will be the same than for the 1st version...

 

Thanks for watching and encouraging, TMO...

 

P.S: Mr Labalette confirmed me that the part I scratch built in the post# 982 is the choke (I called it by mistake starter, thinking it was the same word in english than in french - it is an english word-) and not a button to open the hood. I have edited some posts consequently...

 

 

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Hello chaps,

for the first version, I chose to paint the inscriptions on the knob with White acrylic Vallejo (post# 1025).

For this 2nd version, I thought I could try to make a custom decal, from the below pic Jean- Pierre sent me kindly:

 

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I had first to reframe and get a close-up, but I also wanted to increase the contrast, with a neater white (the car was brand new). I used the Mac tools for the lines and points. The hardest has been to find the best type font (there are many in the Mac). I tried all of them patiently and it is the Helvetica that was the best. I finally get this:

 

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N.B: on this close-up, it is not perfect, but consider that the concavity in which they fit is about 1,8 mm! Will my Canon printer allow me to get something neat? I hope so... On the other hand, the light (flash) on the right is not good for my decal job to come. If someone (Les?) could improve that with Photoshop, it would be great and very kind...

I should get so imho a better knob. I will take advantage of this decal creation to come to also try to get better inscriptions of the steering wheel (I was not very happy with my current result). I made this pic last Wednesday (among many pics, videos and measures), that could be a good base for a custom decal:

 

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Cheers, TMO

 

 

 

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I want to come-back on the pedals, because I think they all should be a bit more to the right.

I made this pic last Wednesday:

 

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I also measured the high beam control knob diameter: 

 

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The merciless comparison below confirms that:

 

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I've been following your amazing build for quite some time now and you are an artist that is really dedicated to your project.

I just thought I would let you know that your top up opening knob is actually the high beam/low beam switch which was foot operated on US cars of that era.

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18 minutes ago, DarylH said:

I've been following your amazing build for quite some time now and you are an artist that is really dedicated to your project.

I just thought I would let you know that your top up opening knob is actually the high beam/low beam switch which was foot operated on US cars of that era.

Thanks a lot, DarylH!

And thank you too for correcting me, as you are right of course, I now remember that Bernard told this knob was the HB/LB control... I will edit consequently as soon as possible.

 

Cheers, O

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