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Ford Mustang 1964 1/2 Convertible 1/16 from the Coupe AMT kit: the Indy 500 Pace Car


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The problem is always the same: when I am glad with the result, I suddenly realize that there is still a little wrong detail...

I will use the 2nd decal (see my post@ 821) and will place it on a 0,5 mm plastic sheet, that should be more appropriate than 0,2 mm, to represent this grille. 

 

Cheers, O

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27 minutes ago, Biggles87 said:

I think you’re getting there Olivier, keep up the good work.

You have a very well organised work area, I wish I could keep mine like that.

Thanks for your encouragements, John!

Yes, well organized, but, as for you, the mess comes back very fast, as soon as you do something. Here is precisely how was my bench this morning:

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Keeping our working area tidy is a constant struggle... but it is the best way to work with pleasure!

 

Cheers, O

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Very good (TM) Olivier! 

 

I'm now waiting for you to find yet some other small defect on this part which you would like to improve upon 😉 

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1 hour ago, JeroenS said:

Very good (TM) Olivier! 

 

I'm now waiting for you to find yet some other small defect on this part which you would like to improve upon 😉 

No, Jeroen, promised, this time, I won’t come-back on this cap! But even if I ever spent quite a lot of time on the dashboard, I know it is far from being over...

Cheers, TMO 😉

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I think I'll have to get you a beer, Thierry, because finally, as would have said the (very) missed Peter Falk alias Lt Columbo: "y'a un p'tit détail qui m'chiffonne..." (there's a little detail that bothers me). This detail is that the slots should be mat and not gloss as the metal grille. I will try to improve that tomorrow, a brightness contrast  should imho increase the 3D effect and give a more realistic result for this grille made in 2D...

Totally Mad Olivier...

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On 7/1/2020 at 10:14 AM, Totally Mad Olivier said:

Hello chaps,

 

As you know, I also like to share in my threads ideas for a better modeling experience...

 

In the posts# 11 and 94 of the Nieuport 11 thread, I said all the good I think of the Tamiya sanding sponges, available in grits from 180 to 3000. One of the many attributes of these sponges is that they are easy to identify, as they are printed (on the bottom) in different colors depending on the grit.

But pity, on their sanding papers (that remain necessary in many situations), the bottom is always of nearly the same brown grey, and, as far as I know, none of sanding papers manufacturers had the idea to apply a different color on the bottom to help the grit identification by the modeler.

When I cut rectangles of sanding paper, I write on the bottom of each one the grit (fe 1000), but if I want to prepare in advance little round sanding pads, to use with home-made sanding tools, how to identify them? I can store them in a small compartmented box, but I thought it would be a good thing, in case they get mixed up, to identify them easily. That is why I applied on the bottom of 240, 400 and 800 grit sanding papers, a coat of very different colors, waiting for Tamiya to apply the same great idea they had on sanding sponges also on their sanding papers:

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N.B: this idea to make custom pads, that allows the make a very precise sanding job (up to 1 mm, see my post# 714 p. 29), is also very economical. Imagine how many pads I can get in the portions of sanding papers cut...

 

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I would like to know if such posts are interesting for you, or if you prefer me to only focus on the build itself...

 

Cheers,  Olivier

 

Edit a bit later:

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Just now, Lvp said:

 

Olivier,

Nice work with the decal.

My question is about cutting the sanding disks and papers.

Does it have an adverse effect in the tools you use to cut the disks?

Do they need to be sharpened often?

Thanks,Les

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1 hour ago, Lvp said:

Nice work with the decal.

My question is about cutting the sanding disks and papers.

Does it have an adverse effect in the tools you use to cut the disks?

Do they need to be sharpened often?

Thanks Les, and thanks again for your help.

If I understand well, your question is about the tool I use to get these sanding pads. 

If so, the answer is very clear: I use mainly the RP Toolz Punch and Die, but I also may use, for the 3 mm and 4 mm pads, simple metal dies. I have never sharpened none of them, and they are still working very well.

If you use the latter (the dies), you just have to work on a cutting mat, quite soft, that will prevent the die from any damage.

Did I reply to your question?

 

Cheers, O 

 

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Don't hesitate if you have any other question...

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Excellent, excellent work Olivier. The dash is major improvement.

 

On 7/2/2020 at 7:48 AM, Totally Mad Olivier said:

 

Yes, well organized, but, as for you, the mess comes back very fast, as soon as you do something. Here is precisely how was my bench this morning:

I wish that my bench was that untidy. I seem to spend more time looking for a tool I've just put down than doing the task at hand...:D

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On 04/07/2020 at 15:06, harveyb258 said:

Excellent, excellent work Olivier. The dash is major improvement.

Thanks a lot, Harvey!

I am now going to represent as faithfully as possible the buttons. 

Here are the measures of depth of the latter at 1/16:

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Once reported on the Wiper and Lights buttons close-up, I get this:

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Once reported on the radio buttons close-up, I get this:

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Now the hardest is to come. I am thinking about the best way to scratch build them. Of course, I don't pretend to make perfect ones, and a there will be a margin error. Several trials will probably be necessary...

Any suggestion (especially from you) will be welcome...

 

Cheers, O

 

N.B: there is another button, near the ignition key, for the cigarette lighter. It is nearly the same (and probably even exactly the same) than the wiper one.

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1 hour ago, Totally Mad Olivier said:

Thanks a lot, Harvey!

I am now going to represent as faithfully as possible the buttons. 

Here are the measures of depth of the latter at 1/16:

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Once reported on the Wiper and Lights buttons close-up, I get this:

 

 

 

Now the hardest is to come. I am thinking about the best way to scratch build them. Of course, I don't pretend to make perfect ones, and a there will be a margin error. Several trials will probably be necessary...

Any suggestion (especially from you) will be welcome...

 

Cheers, O

 

The best way imho is to use the lathe and a metal rod, brass for example :)

 

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2 hours ago, Totally Mad Olivier said:

You are certainly right, CC, and I ever have the brass rod 😂

 

Well done ! So you’re not so far of the goal 🤓

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8 hours ago, CrazyCrank said:

is to use the lathe and a metal rod

I fully agree. However, if a lathe isn't available, a dremel, file and a steady hand would work equally well. 

Another method would be to fabricate from slide-fit tubing of different diameters around a central rod.

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Dear Harvey and Thierry,

 

In the lack of lathe, here is how I see things:

- I need a 1,6 mm tube to represent the ring (1,56 mm diameter) on the radio buttons. I would order this tube in the Albion Alloys range (ref. MBT 16)

- I need a 0,4 mm thickness tin sheet, to represent the 0,4 mm hollowed button. As I have 0,3 mm and 0,1 mm ones, I have to glue the 0,1 mm on the 0,3 mm with CA to get a 0,4 mm one. I will use the RP Toolz Rivets maker to get a 1,3 mm diameter rivet. In fact, this has ever been done (using the 1,2 mm hole, I in fact get a 1,3 mm diameter rivet) and it looks OK (notice that I had got, in a first time, the same 1,2 mm rivet but in 0,2 mm thickness, too thin, see the post # 714 p. 29)

- for the conical portion , I could simply use a 1,2 mm Evergreen rod (ref. 221) and, with a triangular blade, give it a conical shape.

As I will have to wait until I get the 1,6 mm tube, I could in the meantime (and when I have free time...) go on with another aspect.

 

Cheers, O

 

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2 hours ago, Totally Mad Olivier said:

Dear Harvey and Thierry,

 

In the lack of lathe, here is how I see things:

- I need a 1,6 mm tube to represent the ring (1,56 mm diameter) on the radio buttons. I would order this tube in the Albion Alloys range (ref. MBT 16)

- I need a 0,4 mm thickness tin sheet, to represent the 0,4 mm hollowed button. As I have 0,3 mm and 0,1 mm ones, I have to glue the 0,1 mm on the 0,3 mm with CA to get a 0,4 mm one. I will use the RP Toolz Rivets maker to get a 1,3 mm diameter rivet. In fact, this has ever been done (using the 1,2 mm hole, I in fact get a 1,3 mm diameter rivet) and it looks OK (notice that I had got, in a first time, the same 1,2 mm rivet but in 0,2 mm thickness, too thin, see the post # 714 p. 29)

- for the conical portion , I could simply use a 1,2 mm Evergreen rod (ref. 221) and, with a triangular blade, give it a conical shape.

As I will have to wait until I get the 1,6 mm tube, I could in the meantime (and when I have free time...) go on with another aspect.

 

Cheers, O

 

OK, it's perfectly feasible  with 3 portions, PLUS  the 0.3 mm portion (which diameter) that goes through the dash...

 

But, and the perfect centering of these 4 parts, how do you envision that ? (As said Harvey, you need a centering rod)

 

Cheers

CC

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Hey Olivier.

If you have any of those cheapo disposable lighters knocking around (10 for a pound/euro type thing), they are a fantastic source for parts. The nozzles especially, would be the perfect basis for your buttons..... It's well worth having a few in your stash.

 

Cheers, H

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On 06/07/2020 at 00:52, CrazyCrank said:

OK, it's perfectly feasible  with 3 portions, PLUS  the 0.3 mm portion (which diameter) that goes through the dash...

 

But, and the perfect centering of these 4 parts, how do you envision that ? (As said Harvey, you need a centering rod)

Dear CC,

- for 3 of the 5 buttons, I envisage to simply glue the rivet on the carved out portion of 1,2 mm Evergreen rod, and the latter on the AMT support.

- for the 2 radio buttons, the things are a bit more complex, because the ring must seem to float in the air. I need to see exactly how this ring is assembled on the real car. As you mention, there is a thin rod on which the conical portion is attached. Its diameter is imho about 0,5 mm. The centering will be delicate but let's not forget that these buttons are very small and in fact, it is mainly the "rivet" that will be visible at the end...

 

18 hours ago, harveyb258 said:

If you have any of those cheapo disposable lighters knocking around (10 for a pound/euro type thing), they are a fantastic source for parts. The nozzles especially, would be the perfect basis for your buttons..... It's well worth having a few in your stash.

Thanks to you too, Harvey.

Back from pro work, I disassembled such a lighter:

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N.B: in fact, this conical portion is not the most important imho, as it will be nearly invisible. Even if the conicity is not perfect, no one will notice it. More important for me are the 1,6 mm ring and the hollowed final portion. 

 

Cheers, TMO

 

  

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There is a new modeling shop that opened a few days ago, I will go seeing if they have the AA 1,6 brass tubes. If they don't, I will have to order it on Oupsmodel, which means quite a long time to get them because of the Covid.

In the meantime, I prepare the 1,28 mm hollowed final portion of the buttons. As I said in the post# 845, I could get exactly what I wanted using the RP Toolz Rivets Maker:

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Cheers, TMO

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Hello to all,

 

Well, I think I will never have deserved so much my new nickname than to get this conical portion for my 5 buttons:

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Honestly, I am not sure this delicate job was really necessary as this tiny conical portion, as I ever said above, will be just slightly visible on the finished model. A styling exercise, in a way...

 

Cheers, TMO

 

P.S: I mentioned the name of Jean-Pierre Versini a little above in the thread. He is the happy owner of a nice Coupe 65 showed in the book "Mustang un art de vivre", and also the creator and editor in chief of the french magazine "Mustang and Shelby". To my great satisfaction, he brings me useful pics and infos about the Indy 500 Pace Car I build...

I thank him warmly here for his contribution.

P.S2: the new modeling shop close from my house didn’t have the mbt 16 AA reference and I had to order it on Oupsmodel. Good new, it should arrive tomorrow. Then I will have everything I need to build my buttons.

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