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Ford Mustang 1964 1/2 Convertible 1/16 from the Coupe AMT kit: the Indy 500 Pace Car


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Hello Hannes,

glad to meet you back again in Brit.

I wish you to be able to come back very soon to your workbench.

Last time, I took advantage of the little break I take before going back to mine to read again my Fiat 806 RFI thread. Doing that has awakened memories of this amazing saga we lived with you, Harvey, Roy, Nick, Crazy Crank etc. Very good memories definitely...

 

Cheers,  Olivier 

 

P.S: yes, Harvey does an incredible build, we all look forward to see it once finished, especially me who was a pioneer in building a faithful model of this legendary race car, with a little help from my friends 😉

His build will be quite different from mine, 100% scratch built, unpainted and mainly metal, and it would be very interesting to compare both models waiting for yours. My Fiat 806 G.P is definitely one of my favorite finished builds, it always has a prime location in my waiting room and it is btw probably the most appreciated by my patients...

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Hello to all,

I have decided to begin again this build with the dashboard, important element of the final model. Focus on the AMT part (not so bad but with some elements to improve, especially the Chrome bars missing around the dashboard and the glove box:

 

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N.B: we could wonder, looking at the dashboard above, if the round dials were outwardly oriented. It is just the photo that gives this impression, as the below pic (Bernard's Mustang) confirms:

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To be followed...

 

P.S: reading again this thread, I saw that I used the Mr Hobby acrylic Off White H21 for the vinyl portion of the inner door (post# 614, p. 25). And when checking this flask, as I feared, it was impossible to open. It is a very frequent (not to say systematic) problem I meet with these paints (it nearly never happens with Tamiya ones). Do you have a trick to avoid that? For now, I had to order it again, while the flask is very far from being empty... This Hobby Color paint seems to be a very good cement, anyway!

 

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Don't know if this will work with Mr Hobby but I have opened Tamiya acrylics that have done the same by running under a hot tap. I usually wipe around the threaded area of the cap and bottle before refitting the top so as to remove any paint in that area. Hope that helps.

Nice to see this one back on your bench

 

   Stay safe           Roger

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Sorry for this totally off topic interlude, but I wanted to give you an idea of the great tours we can do with our bikes very close from home:

1) this morning, bike + walking in a quite secret and amazingly beautiful area of the Esterel:

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2) a few days ago, on the Corniche de l'Estérel, also called Corniche d'Or, at Anthéor, another very beautiful place (in the back, the Pic du Cap-Roux):

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This other hobby, especially now that we are no more confined and that nice days are coming, will be a rival for model making...

 

Cheers, Olivier

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Another pic that should be useful to represent as well as possible this dashboard:

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The buttons are much longer than the AMT ones, and with a nice concavity that could be represented by using the RP Toolz Rivets Maker...

On the other hand, the general shape of the dashboard, in particular the cap (the blue portion) is very faithful to the original, something rare enough on this old kit to be underlined.

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Yes, my dear Jeroen, I know I am very lucky living in such a beautiful region.

Back to the bench:
 

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I am aware this result is not totally satisfying for now, but I had no better idea to represent this trim. I will try to still improve the job (especially make disappear the joints). 

One word about the strategy of painting, not simple too here. I could first airbrush the blue dashboard cap, then mask it and airbrush the WW areas, that would have to be masked in turn (delicate masking job) to apply Chrome on the round dials, buttons and other Chrome parts, while the Dark Grey areas (I will not use Black even if they look so, following Roy's rule) with a paintbrush (Vallejo)...

 

Cheers,   Olivier

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Furthermore, I have just been to Cultura as my assistant wanted me to choose something for my birthday next Thursday. I found there a beautiful book (another...) dedicated to the Mustang. I will show better this book later but here is a close-up that is very interesting for the glove box:

 

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N.B: if this close-up confirms that the glove box door is black, the shining is due to the flash, this granulated surface being probably satin finish... 

 

Edit a bit later: I could find the pic below (from Bernard's Mustang) showing better the glove box (more perspective). The AMT opening button will be replaced, and  the appearance is rather mat than satin finish:

 

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In the post# 710 above, I said I could leave the MMFA glue on the glove-box to restitute the granulated state of surface. I made a trial applying on both glove-boxes (I recall I have 2 kits what allows such comparisons) Vallejo Black Grey 862 with a paintbrush. I made a pic but honestly, no interest to post it as you won't see any difference. But I finally prefer the "normal" surface, more neat, while there are small hairs on the MMFA one. So I drop this MMFA option.

Before applying the blue paint on the dashboard cap, some other addings and corrections are necessary, that will be easier to do before beginning the painting job. Among these corrections, there could be this:

 

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Ok, the AMT engraving is very subtle (again a compliment for AMT!) but a smooth surface will be better, if I refer to the dashboard pics above...

So, I remove the engraving:

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N.B: my bar trims have been stored in a safety place, they will be placed later...

 

 

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On 02/06/2020 at 01:00, Mr Mansfield said:

Tha5 must have taken ages to sand such a tiny area surrounded by detail

Hello Mr Mansfield and welcome on the thread.

In fact, not so much time, about 15 mn, maybe 20, including the wrong AMT glove-box button. 
I first used 240 grit, and then 600 grit paper. 
I should still spend a few minutes as I intend go finish the job with 1000 grit (always with the same method), to get a smooth surface for the decal to come.

So, finally, a delicate step managed quite easily just thanks to a good tool and the right sanding paper grit.

Scratchbuilding the bar trims was much longer.

And now a little update:

 

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In the post# 702 above, I said an element was totally missing on the AMT dashboard. It is the ventilation/ heating control unit. Here are below good pics showing it, as I will have to scratch build it (a nice challenge to come...):

 

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About the car radio, the close-up below (even if the quality of the pic is not very good) confirms that the original Indy 500 had the other version, with 5 black and squared buttons being projected at the back, like we may see in the restored version (post# 708):

 

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The 5 buttons being too flat on the AMT, I have to modify them. But except that, the AMT, happily, represents the same version of car radio than the Indy 500.

 

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After a moment, the 5 buttons have been sanded with care to level them. The result is acceptable at naked eye:

 

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Now I wonder how I will proceed to scratch build the ventilation unit... Suggestion?

This display is about half the width of the ashtray to its immediate right, meaning 3,25 mm width and it is the same height, 3,5 mm.

 

To be followed...

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Oliver, I am here following along, as a former Mustang owner, I am interested in this build, although my Mustangs were 2, 1968 notch back  289 automatic cars, and my last one was a 1971 Mach 1 351 Cobra Jet, 4 speed...... so I am watching with great interest...... to the extreme engineering skills you possess, and your fine attention to details....

your buddy

Jeff

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Thanks a lot Jeff for these very kind and encouraging words! You have been one of my best support in the Nieuport 11 thread, and I am very glad to see you are still here for the Mustang saga!

Personally, I would dream to have such a beautiful Convertible like fe this 1967 version (pic in the book I just got for my birthday):

 

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Did your Mach 1 look like the one below?

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The book ("Mustang Un art de vivre" E/P/A ed.) is really very beautiful, large size (36 x 28 cm) and heavy, with many wonderful models (very well chosen, very well photographed) and their happy owners:

 

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Cheers my buddy,   Olivier

 

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The ventilation control plate looks great. No sign of cracks either (I have experience of something similar ending up in 3 pieces after gently cutting slots)

 

Oh, and Happy Birthday!

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