Ford Mustang 1964 1/2 Convertible 1/16 from the Coupe AMT kit: the Indy 500 Pace Car

[TGA]

That is some nice work once again. Unbelievable eye for detail sir. 

 

I got myself a pair of faux leather trousers and cut those up for some really nice and fine "leather" to work with. 

[harveyb258]

2 hours ago, Olivier de St Raph said:

, things are never simple with this build...

But what great results you're achieving, dear Olivier....hat's off Sir!

The window rubbers look fantastic.

[Lvp]

3 hours ago, Olivier de St Raph said:

Les, I don't know if you ever sent me the package for me, but finally, I used adhesive leather to represent the felt around the window:

 

 

 

 

Double sided tape was very useful for this delicate step, allowing small corrections. 

On the other hand, cyano was used to glue the 2 parts of the door.

 

All the best to all, and thanks again to Les for his offer of help

 

Olivier

 

Edit after dry fit assembly:

 

Definitely, things are never simple with this build...

 

 

[Lvp]

Olivier,

Yesterday was a U.S. holiday, no post open.

I will send the material anyway, I'm sure you'll have use for it and the vent window uprights need felt in the vertical guides anyway

Nice work!

[CrazyCrank]

My dear Olivier.....what could I say ?....SO REALISTIC ! Bravo !

[Totally Mad Olivier]

Thanks a lot for your kind comments, mates!

I just spent 3 hours with Michael to design the outside door handle. I thought it would be easy... I was far from imagining it would be such a challenge... The design is not perfect, I will have to round some portions, but it is anyway much better than what the AMT kit offers:

 

For this design, we worked directly with Bernard's measures (1:1). The reduction to 1/16 will be applied downstream, in the Photon 3D slicer. The door handle lenght on the real car is 16 cm, which means that it should be 10 mm at 1/16 (the AMT part is 12 mm (20% too long):

 

Furthermore, this is the left door handle, I forgot to ask Michael how to get the left one (mirror mode). Roy, do you know how to proceed to get it easily with Fusion?

 

ATB to all, thanks for watching and encouraging

 

Olivier

 

P.S:

1) Les, very kind to send the samples anyway! I owe you one...

2) Thierry, do you feel better my friend?

 

 

 

Edited February 20, 2019 by Olivier de St Raph
Only the final result matters

[Totally Mad Olivier]

Edited February 20, 2019 by Olivier de St Raph
Only the final result matters

[Hamden]

 

Superb attention to detail

 

  Roger

[Totally Mad Olivier]

Thanks Roger and all for your kind comments. It is the attention to detail that made me do the merciless comparison below. The door lenght is the same, but the handles and the armrest are too small on my build, meaning that I will have to redo printing and post printing modifying the scale:

 

N.B: the measures were done on my computer, only for comparison, they are not real dimensions (fe, my armrest is currently 9,1 mm and not 12,3...).

This comparison shows also that, despite the correction I made above, the junction inner door/ front panel must be improved (gap), what will not be simple...

 

Cheers, O

 

Edit several hours later: I was right saying the handles are too short but I was wrong saying I should simply modify the scale. Why? because the support has the right diameter (or nearly so). Only the rod must be extended, especially on the door opening handle (+ 50%), as the comparison below confirms:

 

 

 

When we designed with Michael these handles, we took care of the shape and not enough to the dimensions. It is a fact that I missed precise dimensions for these handles (because Bernard has not the same ones, see above). I see Michael this morning and I hope we will succeed bringing the necessary corrections on these parts.

As for the armrest, I checked with Bernard's measures (that arrived a bit too late, while I had ever designed it), only the lenght should be extended of 9%. I consider I am here in the error margin (less than 10%) and only for one dimension, so I will probably keep it as it is.

And as for the outside door handle, despite the 3 hours spent, several improvements must be brought. It was a challenge (that we couldn't raise not using the Create form mode of Fusion that Michael doesn't master well) to get the rounded shape of the latter. But we can anyway do better, especially increasing the thickness of the rod, as it will be easier for me to remove than to add:

 

 

Olivier

 

Edit February 24: here is the new design of my handles. I think I can say they are now very close from truth:

 

The parts have been 3D printed. The problem with the opening door handle is that it is still more fragile (always as narrow but longer...). I had problems because of that with the print (several supports necessary) but also with the necessary sanding job (several parts broken). I will ask Jean-Paul (my dental technician) to do the print on his side and to make a metal part from the printing. 

Waiting for such a metal part, here is what I could get with resin:

 

 

Edited February 25, 2019 by Olivier de St Raph
Only the final result matters

[Totally Mad Olivier]

 

N.B:

- the state of surface, but also the shape of my handle is not yet satisfying, it will be improved using my home made precise sanding tool ever mentioned above (in the post# 642, among others).

- for now, the best option to represent the rubber joint is imho to use a very narrow tin wire...

 

 

 

 

 

I managed to design on my own the lock in Fusion 360, using the Revolve function:

 

 

Edited February 25, 2019 by Olivier de St Raph
Only the final result matters

[Totally Mad Olivier]

In the post# 659 above, I showed that some aspects of the inner door area had to be improved:

 

These improvements are now visible: the front panel has been completely removed and replaced by a new one, that closes the gap. The lower and front part of the door has been rounded. The handles, too short, have been redesigned and replaced:

Edited March 1, 2019 by Olivier de St Raph
Only the final result matters

[Totally Mad Olivier]

 

 

I am gonna try to represent better this inscription using Microsoft Word and my Clear virgin decals. I will have to do several trials before finding the right character font and the right size...

 

Here are below on other angle views the writings on the side. The "Ford" one, like the "Official" one, should be imho in a lighter Blue than what the AMT decals suggests. But corrections on the latter would be too challenging, I will leave them as they are, as a compromise.

 

 

Edit a bit later:

 

N.B: you must read « font » and not « front » in the label, of course...

Edit still a bit later: I have printed the inscriptions « INDIANAPOLIS 500 » and « PACE CAR » (same parameters) on the Clear Virgin decal sheet. Here again, several trials have been necessary in order to have the best result possible. Indeed, if I chose « mat » or « semi gloss photo paper », there was too much ink, and if I chose « Gloss photo paper », there was not enough ink. The best result was obtained choosing a normal paper in high quality.

Edited March 2, 2019 by Olivier de St Raph
Only the final result matters

[Lvp]

Olivier,

The lettering looks a bit tall.

On the real car it runs under the door handle.

Maybe import the document into a photo processing program and reduce the height.

You can also take a photo of the Ford script and change the color, since it's going over white your clear paper will work.

Les

[Totally Mad Olivier]

You seem to be right, Les, and I will try the 21 size instead of 22, that should probably be better. But it is difficult to be sure with the photo I made because the writing is on a different support (paper) placed over the door.

I am not sure I understood very well your other suggestion about the Ford script. 

The idea of taking a photo seems interesting. I could then lighten the color in the MacBook Photo parameters. But I would prefer to avoid removing the AMT decal that is very difficult to remove (I experienced that with the stripes on the hood). This means that I would have to place the lighter Blue decal over the other one, what supposes they are exactly the same size. I am not sure this light color difference justifies such a delicate job. 

Well, anyway, I will remember the suggestion for another time.

 

Olivier

 

P.S: I take advantage of your post to thank you warmly again (I did it only my PM) for the samples you kindly sent to me.

Edited March 2, 2019 by Olivier de St Raph
Only the final result matters

[Lvp]

Correct. if you can't remove the old decal, it will not work.

The ink will not be opaque enough to hide the underlying color when printed on clear decal film.

It would be extremely difficult to cut out the script printed on white paper😖

[Totally Mad Olivier]

When Les suggested yesterday that the lettering was too tall, I was not at home. 

Back again at my workbench, I needed to confirm he was right.

I made these measures and used one more time the rule of 3 (nearly all what I remember in maths ).

I could so determine that Les was right, my lettering was about 10% too tall (5,5 instead of 4,9 mm).

I noticed another important fact: the writing is not parallel to the body line:

 

Of course, I will take all that in consideration. Thanks a lot Les, you avoided me an error. You often need an outside eye, and that is why I consider that I get as much as I give on Britmodeller. Hannes, Harvey, Crazy Crank, Roy, John and many others, at a moment, have so avoided me wrong ways.

The occasion to thank again all great modelers who helped me so.

A big thought too to Juan Manuel Villalba, who, out of Brit, learnt me so much and so avoided me many errors too.

 

Olivier

 

P.S: I could determine that the best size in Word to get the right lettering size was 20,5. I found out at this occasion that I could use a value between 2 whole numbers.

Edited March 3, 2019 by Olivier de St Raph
Only the final result matters

[Totally Mad Olivier]

The Clear decal job has been (and is still for the left door) very tricky. The print on Inkjet paper (with an Inkjet printer) was poor, with too much ink, whatever the option of paper and quality I could use. The print on a Laser paper (using a Laser printer) was much better, but here, the problems arrived later, after applying the decal. The latter tended to be folded on the edges, with a very low tack. Using Micro Sol, instead of improving the result, made it still worse. I thought I would turn mad with these decals. I even considered I would finally use the wrong AMT lettering, but this option was really frustrating. Well, I finally could get this result (acceptable if not perfect) at the price of great efforts of patience:

 

 

P.S: very tricky too the 3D print of the air deflector I designed (in 2 parts, in and out) with Michael:

 

The resin printer failed in printing correctly these objects. I asked the Anycubic support but no reply up to now... I will probably use traditional scratch approaches for these parts...

 

 

 

Edited March 10, 2019 by Olivier de St Raph
Only the final result matters

[Totally Mad Olivier]

"Happily", one half deflector could be correctly printed, allowing to check dimensions and angles, by comparison with the real car ones:

 

 

 

 

 

Edited March 10, 2019 by Olivier de St Raph
Only the final result matters

[Totally Mad Olivier]

In the post# 667 above, I explained how tricky had been the decal job. As I had to redo it on the left door, here are the problems met and the way I tried to solve them as I could:

 

 

 

N.B: the MicroSol, instead of improving the adhesion, increases the folding...

 

 

 

 

 

 

I think I will redo totally one more time this decal job, not really convincing. I will probably cut and place the letters one by one, removing the clear film very closely...

 

 

 

Edited March 14, 2019 by Olivier de St Raph
Only the final result matters

[harveyb258]

Decals can be the trickiest things to manipulate, Olivier. You need to use microsol, not microset. The instructions for microsol etc can be a bit misleading though, tbh. The general rule is that you don't touch the decal once microsol has been applied, otherwise you run the risk of ruining it.....I strongly disagree. Using a solution loaded (soft) brush, you can (very) gently persuade the decal to conform......to any shape within reason.

 

Keep up the good work, pal!

 

Cheers, H

[JeroenS]

1 hour ago, harveyb258 said:

Decals can be the trickiest things to manipulate, Olivier. You need to use microsol, not microset. The instructions for microsol etc can be a bit misleading though, tbh. The general rule is that you don't touch the decal once microsol has been applied, otherwise you run the risk of ruining it.....I strongly disagree. Using a solution loaded (soft) brush, you can (very) gently persuade the decal to conform......to any shape within reason.

 

Keep up the good work, pal!

 

Cheers, H

I agree, had some very tough decals on my 1/76 Cromwell. Applied microsol generously using the method you described, then let it dry. An hour later it was perfect. 

[Totally Mad Olivier]

On 14/03/2019 at 16:36, harveyb258 said:

You need to use microsol, not microset

 I was wrong mentioning Microset, it is in fact MicroSol that I used (I have edited my post above to do the correction). And I confirm that MicroSol didn't help in that occasion. But it is not its fault, there was really a big problem with the combination Holi Laser paper/ LDF. 

Though, I must say that, after the previous failure, I had applied 2 coats of LDF, was is definitely a bad inspiration. I have just printed again the lettering on the Holi Laser decal and applied this time a light coat of LDF. I hope this will decrease the folding of the edges. And, as I said above, I should cut every letter and digit very carefully, removing all the clear film possible. If I still have problems with the clear decals, I will order a new LDF can, as, unlike what I said (I confused with another Microscale product), I don't know when I bought this LDF (it must be quite old as later, I have taken the good habit to precise the date on the cans for many products).

 

Thanks to both of you Harvey and Jeroens for your suggestions anyway

 

Cheers

 

Olivier

Edited March 15, 2019 by Olivier de St Raph
Only the final result matters

[Totally Mad Olivier]

 

 

In the next days, I will be in holidays and so far from my workbench. I will try to take advantage of this free time to begin reading the books (one in french, one in english) I bought about how to (try to) master Fusion 360.

Edited March 16, 2019 by Olivier de St Raph
Only the final result matters

[harveyb258]

Lovely job Olivier!

I agree that the film would be the better option, matey. 

Enjoy your hol's!!

 

Cheers, H

[Totally Mad Olivier]

Here I am back again after a few days of holiday and then some other days very busy and with a new episode of low back pain (not over, pity...). With the frequent neck pains, that's a lot for one man. A standard exchange of my whole  back would be a good thing, definitely!

Because of all that, the update is very limited and is about  the rubber joint around the outside handle:

 

 

Cheers

 

Olivier

Edited March 26, 2019 by Olivier de St Raph
Only the final result matters