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Ford Mustang 1964 1/2 Convertible 1/16 from the Coupe AMT kit: the Indy 500 Pace Car


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Yes, Roy, very probably, and thanks for the photo and the link ;).

The questions remained partially unanswered (or rather without full precision) mainly concern the tunnel dimensions. I could get fragmentary (and sometimes contradictory) measures of this element, as I couldn't find an owner of Mustang not equipped of the central console. For the width, I measured myself with Bernard about 31 cm (carpet in place, of course) at the rear (before a final rear enlargement to about 42 cm):

Ztv7To.png

As machbill measured 30 cm at the front (1 cm, error margin), I considered the tunnel width was the same between the seats. Of course, this width becomes wider forward, but I didn't get a precise info on that point.

 

For the height, I myself measured it with Bernard just behind the console to 18,5 cm (curiously, olive82 - from the Mustang forum - measured only 10 cm there, but more logically 18 cm at the front).

30gEMn.jpg

So, I considered that the height was about 18 cm everywhere.

These last days, I not only worked on the hood strps, I also still spent time on this damned tunnel, and I think I am nearly OK now...

I have removed the BMF from the door sill (not very convincing), added the 5 screws on each side and applied my combination TS-14 (from the airbrush) and Alclad Chrome.

I should apply the new felt today or tomorrow at the latest...

 

 

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Lovely job Olivier!!!!

If you don't mind me saying so, I think the "grain" of your carpeting looks way too thick imho

I have some wafer-thin leather that I intend using for my 8o6 upholstery, the backside of this being a very smooth suede, It would be perfect for your floor......soft, flexible and quite stretchy.  Having quite a stash of it , I will gladly send you some if you would like...….anything to be of service to our cause:D

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First of all, thanks chaps for the kind "likes" that sound like warm encouragements for me.

14 hours ago, harveyb258 said:

I think the "grain" of your carpeting looks way too thick imho

Yes, Harvey, even if I think the Mustang carpet was quite thick too:

G4SXxl.png

 You probably saw that I had tried unsuccessfully to thin the felt (post# 570).

And, by using a brand new blade to cut neatly the new felt, I tried to avoid undesired hairs that give a perception of thicker carpet, but I agree with you, the felt is though  too thick.

14 hours ago, harveyb258 said:

I have some wafer-thin leather that I intend using for my 8o6 upholstery, the backside of this being a very smooth suede, It would be perfect for your floor......soft, flexible and quite stretchy.  Having quite a stash of it , I will gladly send you some if you would like...….anything to be of service to our cause:D

It's a very kind offer that I accept of course, Harvey. I will send you my adress by PM, and if your wafer-thin leather gives indeed a better result, it will replace my quite thick felt.

8 hours ago, Lvp said:

What clear coat are you using?

Does it sand and polish out well?

I used the Alclad Klear Kote, applying a unique medium coat (no thinning) sprayed at 17 psi. As with any Alclad cellulosic paint, you will clean your airbrush after use with any cellulosic thinner (you don't need to buy the more expensive Alclad airbrush cleaner). Of course, it is very essential to wear a good protective mask and ventilate the room when working with such paints and clears.

The Klear Kote is imho a very good Gloss, whose state of surface is easy to improve by using Micromesh, Tamiya Compounds and wax.

For more details, see the posts# 14 and 17 on p. 1 of this thread.

 

Olivier

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glCYRc.jpg

 

How to represent such an embossment around the vinyl inner door? maybe the 3D would help...

It would be so much more simple to "forget" it, but in my will of faithfulness, it is not easy.

I first tried to do without, by "traditional methods", cutting it in 0,2 mm thickness tin sheet, then glueing it, and then improving it as I could:

pKrZkJ.jpg

 

SmNurg.jpg

 

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Hi Olivier,

                       I think I'd be tempted to cut away the raised and pleated section from the inner face of the door, cut a flat piece of plastic card just a little bit larger to represent the embossed section and fix the two together. You can clean up the outline of the embossed part to closely follow the shape of the pleated section when it's dry.

Clean up the door inner face and glue the assembly to it. Blend it in with ether paint or a little filler.

 

Dave

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On 27/01/2019 at 12:18, Fastcat said:

Hi Olivier,

                       I think I'd be tempted to cut away the raised and pleated section from the inner face of the door, cut a flat piece of plastic card just a little bit larger to represent the embossed section and fix the two together. You can clean up the outline of the embossed part to closely follow the shape of the pleated section when it's dry.

Clean up the door inner face and glue the assembly to it. Blend it in with ether paint or a little filler.

 

Dave

Thanks a lot Dave for your suggestion. I admit though that I didn't understand very well some points of your explanation. 

 

On 27/01/2019 at 14:26, HOUSTON said:

Olivier..

 

EXEMPLARY  Workmanship.

 

PRISTINE... vety detailed and exacting modeling from you.. 

:worthy:

would not expect anything less from you Sir.

 

:goodjob:

Thanks a lot Houston, it's good to see you are following this thread after the Missouri Armada one. Your kind comments are always so nice and encouraging... 

All the best to both

Olivier

 

N.B: the photo below shows an a bit wider embossment than the one we can see on all the other Mustang inner door I have in my library. This model is imho a preproduction Mustang (January 1964). I'd appreciate if this version was the right one for the Indy 500... 

TitoTe.png

 

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The photo just above led me to do further researchs on this embossment. I found among others this nice b/w period factory pic:

lvBZZw.png

 

that confirmed what I ever supposed: the wider embossment seen on the preproduction Mustang very likely was replaced for a thinner one from the beginning of the production.

I decided to completely remove my failed embossment, and thought that a 1 mm x 0,5 mm (ref. 122) Evergreen rectangular strip would probably do the job much better than my cut tin sheet (bad casting), with better dimensions and especially a more neat result:

Mdhn1L.jpg

 

 

 

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Impossible to go on even a little these last days, because of a new (and still as awful as last year's one) renal colic crisis that took me on Wednesday afternoon (the night was really a nightmare).

I just begin to be  somewhat better, and I am going first to show you where I was before this crisis:

fofm4y.jpg

 

N.B: I didn't use the color I intended to for the vinyl portions, because the contrast with the body color was nearly unnoticeable. I decided to finally use the Gunze Off White I mentioned   in the post# 127 p.6 (at this time, I thought I would use it for the body...)

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Hope you soon feel better, pal. I thought you would have received my package by now, they said 3-5 days.

 

Regarding the door trim.... I applaud your efforts with the painting etc, but I think you're opening yourself up to  some potential problems with the handling and attachment of  said parts. Personally, I think the difference between 0,5 round or square section, at this scale is negligible. 

 

Assuming your paintwork is compatible with Tam X22 clear, use that as glue and lay in some ,5 solder/lead wire instead(no paint needed then).  See @Jeroen's Fiat 500 seat piping....I think he's now a firm devotee of the X22 method.

 

Once it's set hard and clearcoated, you can VERY GENTLY "roll" a drill bit or tube over the surface and slightly flatten the face. From 6inches away it looks square, so nobody's any the wiser and you have beautiful trim!!!!

 

Cheers, H

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12 hours ago, JeroenS said:

Get well soon Olivier!

 

8 hours ago, harveyb258 said:

Hope you soon feel better, pal

 

Thank you both, chaps! Pity, the improvement is more than slow for now...

 

8 hours ago, harveyb258 said:

I thought you would have received my package by now, they said 3-5 days.

No problem, Harvey, I am sure I will get it today or Monday at the latest

8 hours ago, harveyb258 said:

I applaud your efforts with the painting etc, but I think you're opening yourself up to  some potential problems with the handling and attachment of  said parts. Personally, I think the difference between 0,5 round or square section, at this scale is negligible. 

Thanks for this suggestion, Harvey. I had myself first thought to such an option (I have often used the tin wire as material in my previous and current build). 

If it was a 1/24 scale one, I would have accepted it as a compromise, but at 1/16, I think I must try to represent a more square section like it is on the real car. It is true that it is a bit harder to negotiate the curves (less than for my embossment, though, imho, the latter needing small cuts) but I remain quite confident, because the Evergreen is quite soft in such a narrow size. 

More, imho, it is difficult to get a convincing result with tin wire on quite straight portions because of the high softness of this material (I experienced that fe with the backseat beads, see my post# 377 on p. 16). I admit though that this method may be a good compromise for a more simple job, even if I am not sure the tin would give the same "Chrome effect" than the combination TS-14/ Alclad Chrome.

8 hours ago, harveyb258 said:

Assuming your paintwork is compatible with Tam X22 clear, use that as glue and lay in some ,5 solder/lead wire instead(no paint needed then).  See @Jeroen's Fiat 500 seat piping....I think he's now a firm devotee of the X22 method.

I know the X22 method, and I ever used it (imho, the Hobby Color acrylic paints and Gloss are still a better glue than the Tamiya acrylics ones - I could never open some of them after use because of that and I suppose I am not alone -) but in this instance, because of the curved portions, I prefer to use the cyano. It is not necessary to put many drops, they can be spaced of several cms on the quite straight portions. The (tiny) drops will be closer in the curved portions.  

Well, for now, I finally just applied the Klear Kote Gloss over my square Chrome rod. I hope the delicate step of glueing this rod will be OK...

 

Cheers, O

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I am still suffering quite a lot with this ... renal colic, but I could though go on a bit and apply my square rod. I was a bit disappointed by the Chrome effect I got, but happily, the Molotow LC is here, and I must admit that, if it was not the best option for a big part such the bumper, it is great for use with a fine paintbrush in quite thick coat on narrow portions such the letters FORD on the hood or, in this instance, the long square rod.

I will apply the Molotow on the right door tomorrow (I can't keep working more than 30 mn for now).

rJKBJw.jpg

 

P.S:

1) not yet got Harvey's package, I will certainly get it on Monday. I have, in the meantime, decided to order blotting paper. Painted Flat Black, it could be a good option to represent the felt joints around the window (see the photo on my post# 502, p. 21). To try... In fact, the state of surface of the blotter paper would be probably quite good to represent also the carpet, but pity, it is not stretch (the felt was not really so, nevertheless...). I look forward to see Harvey's material, hoping it will satisfy the specifications for a convincing carpet (I have great trust in Harvey, and so, if he says it should be fine, it should indeed).

2) to have an idea of the job done on this inner door, see the original AMT part in my post# 447, p. 18.

 

Edit Sunday morning: I have applied the Molotow on the right side, but also applied a second coat on the left one. So, the Chrome effect should be enhanced compared with the result of the photo above. That said, the final result with the Molotow (after drying) seems to be a little lower compared with the immediate look, great, when you apply it (in quite thick coat, I recall). It seems that the contact with air tends to decrease a bit the incredible look you get first. Though, the Molotow remains, as far as I know, the best option to do such a job with a paintbrush. It has imho no equivalent in this instance. 

Edited by Olivier de St Raph
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I had ever begun scratch building the handles using photos and measures of Bernard's car ones (happily only the opening door ones for now) when I found out that I had 2 different versions of the latter in my library:

 

dYmxOo.png

 

wdgIwd.png

 

gSao69.jpg

 

cKVItf.jpg

 

Roy, in the post# 386 p. 16, brought a very interesting video from which I made several screen captures, and especially this one:

Xu1srB.png

 

The ultimate proof is brought by this close-up from the photo above (post# 613):

CjgfjF.png

 

The restored version, definitely conform to the original, will be imho a bit more difficult to scratchbuild because of the handles shape (conical support, more rounded shape of the rods...). An opportunity to use CAD/CAM??

Of course, I could consider that the different shape of these handles are really a detail and go on with Bernard's version, but in my quest for truth, it would be a compromise difficult to accept.

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I have tried to design the support of the handles (pity I am not competent enough to design the full door and window handles) on Fusion 360, basing me on the capture screen below for the shape and on Bernard's measures: 

 

P8sxs6.png

 

vSFES2.png

 

We can see that the supports are nearly the same for the door as for the window handle. So, I am now printing with my Anycubic Photon 9 items (I only need 6 - 3 for each side - but I prefer to have a bit more).

The printing is on, I hope the result will be good for parts that are very small (28 mm for the biggest diameter).

It takes 25 mn to print. It would be my first own 3D CAD CAM modeling creations (the inlet slots were designed by Daniel (dbostream). Btw, are you still following the thread, Daniel?

 

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It seems you're serious about this Fusion 360 stuff. To give you an idea how this handle could be drawn (I'm sure there are better ways) I made this quick sketchy design; mind that dimensions are far from accurate, I just looked at your picture above and then tried to make a far, far resemblance. 

 

1. First, make the sketch like you did on your drawing, I think.

 

40010719043_ba7549928d_b.jpg 

 

 

2. Revolve. 

 

33099784258_9e3b7f5dc6_b.jpg 

 

3. Make an offset plane, to start drawing the long handle bar from. 

 

40010718993_0f6da54624_b.jpg  

 

4. On the offset plane, draw half of the handlebar section. 

 

33099784208_6691048354_b.jpg 

 

5. Then mirror it. From now on you can easily amend it and have 'centered' distances all the time. 

 

40010718933_0c94d6a750_b.jpg 

 

6. Extrude both parts of the handle bar. 

 

40010718853_813420e064_b.jpg 

 

7. Select one face of the handle bar for a new sketch. Draw the 'fillet' part there. 

 

33099784098_8d89c139e4_b.jpg  

 

8. Close the section: it turns light yellow. 

 

40010718763_2df852e76f_b.jpg 

 

9. When extruding it, choose 'join' and 'extend to object', selecting the opposite face of the handle bar. 

 

33099784018_7b3ed5bce4_b.jpg 

 

10. Draw a circle, using the bottom side of the handle bar as sketch origin. 

 

40010718663_2233de0680_b.jpg 

 

11. Draw another offset plane. 

 

33099783918_dd096e7af6_b.jpg 

 

12. On that new plane, draw a smaller circle. Then, use the 'loft' command to make a transformation between the two circles. 

 

32034106977_0db0b0d1fc_b.jpg 

 

13. Apply a fillet. 

 

46975293421_08242c5c3b_b.jpg

 

14. After filleting, it looks like this. 

 

46250946434_373bf7f0ae_b.jpg 

 

15. Make yet another offset plane, for the larger circle to create the timeglass-like shape. 

 

33099783838_1e149e9181_b.jpg

 

16. Easy: creating a cylinder by extruding the top circle. 

 

46250946354_20a364d27c_b.jpg 

 

17. After drawing a smaller circle on top of the cylinder, and cutting away part of the cylinder by a negative extrude-action, this is what it looks like. 

 

46975293261_f6d631a5d9_b.jpg 

 

I didn't feel like making the knurled handle. It's a matter of making a circular pattern. Not sure if you'll want to have that on the model anyway as it will be extremely small and I doubt the 3D-printer will represent that accurately. 

 

If you have any questions, of course feel free.

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Waooh, Roy, that’s a pretty good window opening handle! I agree with you, considering the small size, it is not necessary to represent the knurled knob.

Could you send me by email the stl file please?

Of course, I will try, following your tuto, to do the same by myself.

My yesterday evening printing had to be redone because of an unwelcome power outage in the neighborhood. 

The printing was finally 35 mn and here is the result, after rinsing the parts in a bath of Resinaway (US vat) and a few minutes under the UV lights:

 

pgoiWV.jpg

 

I look forward to see the result of the whole handle with Roy's file...

 

Olivier

 

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You (or anyone interested) can download the file by clicking here

 

Beware that it's just for reference purposes only; everything about it dimension-wise etc. is wrong. It was merely my intention to give you some ideas / inspiration for drawing this yourself. 

 

So with that in mind, the original Fusion 360-file is available above. If anyone else wants to have a look, the software can be freely downloaded so do go ahead. I didn't include an STL file, as it's easy to create one from the original file and I don't know what properties you would like this particular STL to have.

 

Good luck drawing and printing! :) 

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