Ford Mustang 1964 1/2 Convertible 1/16 from the Coupe AMT kit: the Indy 500 Pace Car

[dbostream]

I have never connected the printer with Cura only Repetier Host so I cannot help. I got a microSD to USB adapter with my printer kind of bad they did not include one with yours.

[Totally Mad Olivier]

I could get a contact with the support. It seems that there are problems to connect the printer with a Mac (the Monoprice is open source). So, the only way to print would be to use a micro SD adapter, on which I will put the gcode given by Cura. I will buy one tomorrow. Of course, another option would be to use Repetier-Host instead of Cura, but I don' t know if it should work better... 

Edited December 22, 2018 by Olivier de St Raph

[Totally Mad Olivier]

Waiting for the micro Sd adapter to USB, I will go on with my build, a bit as messy as my first steps in the 3D world... But I mustn't be deterred!

 

... unless it is the door sill that is not wide enough...

[Totally Mad Olivier]

One good new (I can now print on the Monoprice from Cura using the Micro SD card bought this afternoon) and one bad (the inlet is not correctly printed by the Monoprice for now). Unlike the Winbo, thanks to the heating bed, no problem of item unglued, but here is the poor result I get (and yet, this is a second trial, the first was worse).

I have decided to download Repetier-Host for Mac, hoping the results will be better.

More soon...

[Totally Mad Olivier]

During new trials (still with Cura for now), a focus on the antenna (notice that on most of the pics of the Indy 500, there are in fact 2 antennas, one right - also present on standard Mustangs - but also one left).

I made photos and measures with Bernard when I met him last on November 21: here is one of them, on which I resume some diameters measured on several pics. The values in brackets are the 1/16 scale ones):

 

 

We also checked the lenghts: 

- total lenght (from the forward wing to the small ball on top): 143 cm (89 mm)

- 1st section: diam.: 76 mm (0,475 mm) lenght: 52 cm (32,5 mm)

- 2nd section: diam.: (0,317 mm) lenght: 46 cm (28,75 mm)

- 3rd and last section: diam.: 2,6 cm (0,16 mm) lenght: 44 cm (27,5 mm)

 

So I have all the necessary infos to represent as well as possible these 2 antennas. Of course, I will have to find compromises with diameters (a bit oversized), as I won't find the precise ones: for the 1st section, I could use a 0,6 mm (instead of 0,475 mm) Albion Alloys alu tube. For the 2nd one, a 0,4 mm alu tube of the same maker, that would run in the 0,6 mm, should be OK. And for the last, a 0,2 mm Nickel Silver rod still from A.A. I have checked,  

the 0,2 mm may come into the 0,4 mm, on condition that I first use a 0,2 mm Tamiya drill to widen the hole (same with a 0,4 mm drill to insert the 0,4 mm tube in the 0,6 one).

 

As you can see, Bernard very kindly helped me to do all the measures, while I made the photos. We spent at least 1h30, and though, some important measures are still missing...

I would like to leave Bernard quiet now, but unfortunately, all my trials to find another Mustang failed up to now! A bit discouraging...

Edited December 30, 2018 by Olivier de St Raph
correction

[Totally Mad Olivier]

 

 

 

A bit discouraging too...

A question, Daniel: what 3D printer do you use? 

 

P.S: for those interested, a link of a very good tuto (in english) for beginners on Cura:

https://youtu.be/eUNTlb5pEWA

On ht e 2nd part of the video, you will have an idea of the huge amount of parameters being able to affect (positively or badly) the printing...

[Totally Mad Olivier]

I have been going on with my Cura settings learning, finding another great tuto (in french):

First part: 

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwjmvbHykLTfAhUHrxoKHQFyAEgQFjAAegQICRAB&url=https%3A%2F%2F3dniort.xyz%2Freglages-impression-dans-cura-1%2F&usg=AOvVaw1p_RY0TG8ywRypSKEYGY4R

Second part:

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=2&ved=2ahUKEwjmvbHykLTfAhUHrxoKHQFyAEgQFjABegQICBAB&url=https%3A%2F%2F3dniort.xyz%2Ftutoriel-reglages-cura-partie-2%2F&usg=AOvVaw1seB1fAypOuPM4AuLtcZae

 

And so, I made new trials. Here are below the last (and best for now) results I could get with the MP select V2 printer. These 2 items were printed with exactly the same settings (I won't detail here the incalculable settings (if one is interested, he may send me a PM), but for one, the object was placed vertically (V), while for the other, it was placed flat on the bed:

 

Well, these results are not yet satisfying, but though quite encouraging. I am gonna go on learning and trying to improve the settings in order to get the fine result I expect. Of course, any suggestion welcome, as usual.

It is probable that following the filament used, the result may vary too. I have only one filament for now, PLA. The MP allows to use other kind of materials, including ABS, the latter being more easy to drill and sand after printing, from what I read...

As you can see, just the step of printing is very complex (if you use the custom settings) and Cura is regularly updated and becoming more and more rich of settings.

The problem is to find the best settings, for each parameter... Only learning, patience and experience may allow to get good results.

Now the question remains: wouldn't it be much more easy (and simple) to get such good results (or even better) with a machine such the Anacubic Photon?

Of course, impossible for me to give an answer to such a good question. Only a modeler user of both type of printers could do that. 

For now, I go on trying to get the best result possible with PLA. 

 

[CrazyCrank]

Hi Olivier

I think you've spent approximately 400 euros to purchase 2 3D printers, that have not imho the best rates on the different tests you can read on the Internet.

For less than 400 euros, you could have bought a Creality CR10 or 10S, that have very good functions, very good notes, and which are supported by a BIG fan's community all over the world.

I'm looking on the net since a few weeks and I think it would be a good choice.

Obviously, I can understand that you didn't want to spend a lot of money for just trying a new modeling method...

All the best and wish you'll find quickly the good settings to get an acceptable result.

CC

[Totally Mad Olivier]

Hi CC,

you are partially right in your post.

Indeed, I was a bit fast ordering the first 3D printer. It had good rates on Lab3D natives (see my post# 407 above), but the review was not very recent and things go very fast in the 3D world. A machine considered as quite good 1 year ago may be a bad choice today.

That's why I have been looking for another 3D printer, that would have good rates on a recent review. The Monoprice was ranked second among a selection of 15 low price printers (see the link in my post#  433) in a very recent review by the same Lab3D native.

It has never been in my intention to keep both printers. I bought them on Amazon, and I will send back the poorest (the Winbo, definitely) very easily and with no shipping charges (just have to bring it to a close pickup relay) with a return label printed (that’s why I ordered on Amazon).

It is a pity that you did not do this suggestion (the CR10) before. That said, if I decide to buy an about 400€ printer, I wonder if I won't choose the Anacubic Photon. Do you have a CR10 yourself? In this case, your feed back will be welcome, of course.

All the best my friend

 

Olivier

[CrazyCrank]

No, I havn't yet a CR 10, but I've planned to purchase a 3D printer in 2019, and this model is on my top 3, beside, for instance, the PRUSA I3 MK3 (769 euros in kit to assemble )

[Totally Mad Olivier]

CC,

About the CR 10, it is certainly a very good printer (very good notes indeed) but it really takes a lot of room, while for a modeling use, the objects to make should remain quite small (maybe not as true for your 1/8 build). For info, the CR10 bed is 300 x300, while the Monoprice is only the 120 x 120, what seems to me enough for my use.

The Prusa I3 MK3 (quite bulky too) looks great and it would be very interesting to see the result you get with such a great printer from Daniel's inlet slots. 

As soon as possible (not before next Wednesday), I will contact again with the Monoprice support (chat), and try to get from them the recommended settings for a challenging print such the inlet slots.

Like the Monoprice, the Anacubic is quite compact. If I was sure I can get amazing results with the latter, maybe I would go for it, sending back the Monoprice to Amazon as well.

What do you think of this option? 

 

[dbostream]

22 hours ago, Olivier de St Raph said:

A question, Daniel: what 3D printer do you use? 

I use a Creality Ender 2, bought it from Gearbest (think it was sent from China) for ~150 EUR about a year ago I believe. It has since been replaced by Ender 3 and Ender 3 Pro but I will stick to my Ender 2. I wanted a small printer that I could have on my desk and for the price I think it is great. We have a Prusa I3 MK2S at work that cost more than 700 EUR when we bought it and my Ender 2 gives much better quality prints. Cannot say anything about the Prusa I3 MK3 print quality as I have never used one. In general it seems Creality printers give very good prints for a good price but if you need support from the manufacturer I think Prusa is better. Both Creality and Prusa printers have many users so it should be easy to get help from the community either way.

 

Good to see your prints have greatly improved with the new printer. I think laying the object down on the bed is definitely the right way to go. About the slots being too narrow, yes this is the biggest problem when we have to print such thin lines. You can try to decrease the flow, that means less plastic will get extruded and you get thinner lines but be careful if you set it too low it could be trouble to print properly. As with many other settings it is a thin line (no pun intended) between success and failure. Looking at your setting above that is a very strange layer height you are using, is that intended? 0.1 (0.2 for first layer) mm should be fine if you ask me. Also try to change line width to 0.3 mm and as I mentioned earlier decrease the flow to 80% or 90%. You will learn over time that for prints like this you have to tweak a lot of settings back and forth before you find the sweet spot. 

 

I am away from my printer during Christmas and new year so I cannot do anymore test prints for now but I will upload a new photo of one of my latest prints as soon as I can find my camera.

Edited December 23, 2018 by dbostream

[dbostream]

I forgot to mention, a friend of mine will possibly get access to a printer of the same type as Anacubic Photon early next year, I will try to ask him if he can print the inlet slots on that printer but I cannot guarantee anything.

Edited December 23, 2018 by dbostream

[Totally Mad Olivier]

Thanks a lot Daniel for these very interesting comments. It is a very good new to see that you could get such a great result for the inlet slots with a printer that was very cheap and not so recent. And your experience with the Prusa MK2S (very surprisingly giving much poorer results than your Creality Ender 2 while it is much more expensive) is very interesting too.

I admit I would be very glad if I could get me too a fine result (it is getting better indeed but not yet better than my crafted slots) with my MP select V2. It is nice, compact, unexpensive and well ranked.

Thanks a lot for your print hints, that I follow to see if so, I can improve my slots.

I look forward to see the result your friend will get with the Anacubic...

[dbostream]

So this is my latest attempt at printing the slots, as you can hopefully see I changed the model a bit to make the distance between each of the six slots sections wider, as a result each section is a bit narrower.

 

 

 

For comparison this is the earlier photo I posted:

 

I don't think I can do much better with my printer, of course one could try to post process with a knife or sandpaper. I know there are nozzles down to 0.25 mm would be interesting to know what one could achieve with that.

[Totally Mad Olivier]

4 hours ago, dbostream said:

Looking at your setting above that is a very strange layer height you are using, is that intended? 0.1 (0.2 for first layer) mm should be fine if you ask me.

Yes, learning with the tutos, I understood that it was not a good idea to ask such a value while the printer's resolution is max. 100 microns, 0,1 mm. That's why the printer began to do anything. For the last settings and trials, I chose 0,1, that is imho a good choice.

[Totally Mad Olivier]

3 hours ago, dbostream said:

So this is my latest attempt at printing the slots, as you can hopefully see I changed the model a bit to make the distance between each of the six slots sections wider, as a result each section is a bit narrower.

It's a good idea, and no one would notice that each section is a bit narrower. I wonder if it is possible to decrease a bit the thickness of the object. If yes, it would improve the realism of the part, definitely as the sheet metal is very thin on the real car... In fact, I tried to do that modif on Fusion from your file but I didn't succeed (I have to learn Fusion too...).

[dbostream]

1 hour ago, Olivier de St Raph said:

I wonder if it is possible to decrease a bit the thickness of the object. If yes, it would improve the realism of the part, definitely as the sheet metal is very thin on the real car... In fact, I tried to do that modif on Fusion from your file but I didn't succeed (I have to learn Fusion too...).

Yes it is possible, how thick do you want it?

[Totally Mad Olivier]

On 24/12/2018 at 00:42, dbostream said:

how thick do you want it?

Imho, it should be twice as fine (currently 1 mm thickness, while 0,5 mm would be fine):

 

N.B:

1) using your parameters (flow 80%, line width 0,3 mm), I could get my best result with your file (the first) with my MP printer. I am sure it is though possible to still improve this result.

Daniel, I would like to do a trial with your small modif exposed in your post#465, could you send me the file of this version by PM or on the thread (to your choice), please?

If you may send me the next file after decreasing the thickness, it would be very kind too...

Anyway, it becomes more and more obvious that I will get a better result (it is ever, thanks to a regular appearance) with the 3D printing option...

2) I am not far from thinking it is possible to get a fine result for such a challenging part without buying an expensive and bulky printer, Daniel demonstrated that vividly in his posts# 462 and 465 (incredible result with a cheap printer). I think the most difficult is to determine the best parameters (the magical numbers) in Cura. But I will be though very curious to see the result the Anacubic Photon will get. If it is really great and still much better than the last Daniel version (difficult to imagine), I could decide to send back the MP printer to Amazon (I ever sent back yesterday the Winbo). 

[dbostream]

42 minutes ago, Olivier de St Raph said:

Imho, it should be twice as fine (currently 1 mm thickness, while 0,5 mm would be fine):

The thickness of the model is actually 1.6mm, but I can still make it 0.5mm if you want. Maybe not have time today being Christmas eve and everything.

 

Come to think of it, if you want to do a quick test how strong it is 0.5mm thick you can scale the current model in Cura. It will make the recessed area go away though probably.

 

Edited December 24, 2018 by dbostream

[Totally Mad Olivier]

23 hours ago, dbostream said:

Come to think of it, if you want to do a quick test how strong it is 0.5mm thick you can scale the current model in Cura. It will make the recessed area go away though probably.

What a great idea, Daniel, while I supposed you had to modify the file in Fusion. Definitely, I learnt a lot from you, thanks!

In order to keep the recessed areas, I set z to 0,7 mm. Here is the result, got in only 22 mn, because of the decreased thickness. Pity, I have slots badly opened on one size. Should I preheat the bed (an option possible with the MP printer)? Any suggestion welcome, of course...

 

 

P.S: I wish you all a merry and peaceful Christmas 🎄. I will be far from my workbench for 2 days.

Let's memory: last year, at the same period, I was working on the cockpit of my 1/48 P-51 D Mustang « Missouri Armada »:

 

and 2 years ago, I was "shrinking the shrimp"  (my 1/12 Fiat 806 ), a merry mess too:

 

 

Many greetings!

 

Olivier

[dbostream]

6 hours ago, Olivier de St Raph said:

What a great idea, Daniel, while I supposed you had to modify the file in Fusion. Definitely, I learnt a lot from you, thanks!

In order to keep the recessed areas, I set z to 0,7 mm. Here is the result, got in only 22 mn, because of the decreased thickness. Pity, I have slots badly opened on one size. Should I preheat the bed (an option possible with the MP printer)? Any suggestion welcome, of course...

Are you using a cold bed now? I usually preheat the bed to 50-55C when printing PLA. In your case it looks like the bed is not level, On the "bad side" it looks like the nozzle is too close to the bed. Have you tried to re-level the bed? Or a temporary quick fix, rotate the object 90 deg along Z-axis in order to get away from the bad side of the bed. BTW are you still printing version 1 of the model I sent you or have you tried version 2 with your new printer? It should be possible to print version 2 if you have specified line width to 0.3 mm.

 

Merry Christmas to you, I will PM you a new 0.5 mm thick model tomorrow with the recessed area unchanged.

 

 

Edited December 24, 2018 by dbostream

[Totally Mad Olivier]

13 hours ago, dbostream said:

In your case it looks like the bed is not level, On the "bad side" it looks like the nozzle is too close to the bed

Very good suggestion, Daniel. Before beginning to use this printer, I indeed leveled the bed using a A4 paper sheet and the Allen wrench provided, as suggested by the maker, but maybe I didn’t do the job correctly (very subtle setting). As soon as I am back home, I will check the bed level, the latter may explain the problem with the slots on one size.

And I will also preheat the bed before printing, and try to use the version 2.

Thanks for sharing your experience in 3D with me, very helpful!

 

Cheers

 

Olivier

 

[dbostream]

I have PM:ed you the new thinner models. Also I thought I give you another Cura tip. If you are interested to know how the printer will move during a print before actually printing the object there is a preview function where you can watch the printer movements. This is good to early detect if the settings you currently have are no good and you don't waste time or plastic. Below you can see you have to go to "Layer view" then you can select the layer you want to start looking at before pressing play. You can also inspect all layers individually from here.

 

Edited December 25, 2018 by dbostream

[Totally Mad Olivier]

Thanks a lot Daniel, you are a very good teacher, and I have so much to learn in 3D applications for model making.

I am bit ill (got a bad cold) and not at home now, but I look forward to do new trials with the files you kindly sent me.

As I told you in the reply to your PM, I take advantage of being bedridden to watch videos on YouTube about the Anycubic Photon. Impressive resolution and probably the best option for modelers under 400€, while the FDM printers are more dedicated to other uses (big objects, decorations)...