dbostream Posted October 30, 2018 Share Posted October 30, 2018 For small details like the slots it would be better to have a printer of this type (which I don't have access to): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5YrUQOYLoK0 But I have access to a printer with a slightly smaller nozzle than the one I have tried already thus I have not given up hope yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted October 31, 2018 Author Share Posted October 31, 2018 On 30/10/2018 at 10:46, Biggles87 said: I hope the moisture absorber works, because I have the same problem with humidity in my " man cave " which usually prevents me from airbrushing in there between December and March. If it works for you I might invest in one myself. Hi again John, we are currently in orange alert because of the very rainy conditions in the Var. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles87 Posted October 31, 2018 Share Posted October 31, 2018 Thanks Olivier, that looks pretty good to me. Our house was built on a slope so my ' cave ' really is built partly into the ground which is why it gets damp in the winter, but not actually wet. We have a small portable air conditioner which we use in our bedroom when it gets really hot, and I am pretty sure it has a dehumidifier function ( moisture absorber ) so I might try that. We were on Vigilance Jaune at the weekend and had nearly 48 hours of continuous rain from Saturday afternoon, but not the torrential kind so I am hoping that the ground has softened enough to replace some broken fence posts in one of our horse fields. John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted October 31, 2018 Author Share Posted October 31, 2018 John, I also tried to use the dehumidifier mode of my split air conditioner, but the result was not at all the same than with the moisture absorber. I suggest you to buy the latter and an hygrometer like I did, you will see by yourself. On the other hand, it is not necessary to buy an expensive brand like Rubson (even if they pretend they get up to 40% more efficiency with their rollers) for the refills. A low cost brand like Axton will give imho nearly the same result for a much cheaper price (half price). Considering that you will have to renew from time to time the refills purchase, this consideration is not to neglect... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted October 31, 2018 Author Share Posted October 31, 2018 I have just applied, after still new corrections on my cowl vents, Tamiya White Surface Primer with my airbrush (there is also a can version, that's why I precise). Except small corrections, it should be my last update for this detail. For comparison, I have placed the 2nd AMT body, to enhance the improvements brought: Of course, I hope Daniel will be able to get something better by 3D printing, but anyway, I ever consider this result acceptable (for now , see above!). Olivier Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted October 31, 2018 Author Share Posted October 31, 2018 I must here express a doubt I have about my build (and so a difficult decision): should I go on with the idea to leave the engine hood openable? When I see all the work that will be necessary to get a faithful replica hood closed (I spent many hours on a detail such the cowl vents), and if you consider that my Ford Mustang will take place in a showcase (of course), like my Chevy Bel Air, fe, it is a good question. The experience of the latter shows that it wasn't worth it to represent a nice engine, as no one can see it. There are other reasons to do that choice: - the beautiful design of that car would be broken hood opened. - this build is not a toy. - the joints will be better if the bonnet is glued than if I leave it "openable". - the engine compartment is very simply represented in the AMT kit, while it is in fact very complex. And I am not sure I am ready to spend a lot of time for something we won't see. I know some of you would say that, considering the scale, it would be a pity not to allow having an eye on the engine compartment. Yes, it's true. But if I consider all the advantages and drawbacks of each option, and if I also take in consideration that my pro activity and personal life don't let me so much time, the decision is quite easy to take. After all, even on the Fiat 806 exposed at the Torino Fiat museum, a very big scale model, the engine was not shown and not represented at all, or very roughly (a kind of foam general shape) without mentioning all the errors on this museum model. Of course, I will install the engine I built in my Ford, and it will be a bit visible seen by bottom... Olivier 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marco F. Posted October 31, 2018 Share Posted October 31, 2018 Hello Olivier, yes it's a dificult decision you'll have to consider. It will be a lot of Work of detailing if you want the hood to be openable, just because of the High-Level detailing you did with the rest of the Mustang so far. I think glueing the hood might be an good option just because as you said before, you won't open the hood so often and you will propaly face more fitting problems with the hood itself. But you got to go the way your desire is leading you. Somehow it's like in real live, is the decision really the work worth... I know you'll find the decision which will satisfy your demands. Cheers Marco F. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbostream Posted October 31, 2018 Share Posted October 31, 2018 Olivier I think you have done a great job with the slots, the length of them look more accurate now. The problem I have had so far with the 3d-print is that the area between the slots gets too wide and the slots too narrow because of it. With details as small as this the error when printing becomes bigger. Hopefully I can get a better print with the other printer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted November 1, 2018 Author Share Posted November 1, 2018 13 hours ago, dbostream said: The problem I have had so far with the 3d-print is that the area between the slots gets too wide and the slots too narrow because of it. With details as small as this the error when printing becomes bigger. Hopefully I can get a better print with the other printer. Yes, Daniel, I understand, I suppose it is necessary to have a very good 3D print (and so very expensive) to get something convincing for such narrow slots. 3D prints should get better and better and in the same time cheaper and cheaper in the next years. I admit this option would be very interesting to represent the formwork in which the soft top mechanism takes place, naturally totally missing on the AMT Coupe kit: I am thinking about the best way to represent this area (including of course the lever and the ash tray). Any suggestion will be welcome... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted November 1, 2018 Author Share Posted November 1, 2018 I have begun working on this area. There will be a lot of work on the interior if I want to be quite faithful to the original... I will ask Bernard to precise the width of this wall (the wall width on the kit is 1,9 mm, maybe a little too much). A slot will have to be created for the small rear window (see the photo above previous post)... This photo shows the interior on my 2nd kit. Notice the notch, wrong, the picked up wall right side and the necessary correction of the angle that the backseat makes, opened while it should be closed... The latter will require a delicate surgery, as the most simple to get the right angle will be to cut the low part of the back seat... It will be then much more easy to remove completely the wrong notch. But the floor will need to be extended backwards... ... as this photo shows: There are many other corrections to do, especially the seat shape, that should be much more bulged... N.B: in the same time, I am working on the steering wheel, that requires a good preparation (mould lines to remove, shape to improve, too thick parts...). I will post soon a post about this important element. Olivier Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted November 1, 2018 Author Share Posted November 1, 2018 New little update with the angle correction. The scar is ugly for now N.B: I go on thinking I will keep my engine bonnet closed... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted November 2, 2018 Author Share Posted November 2, 2018 Look at this merciless comparison: the least we can say is that the AMT backseat is far from being faithful... I thought that I could try to heat the polystyrene and try so to create more convex shapes for the backseat. A risky step... I think I will have to spend many hours (as for every detail such the wheels, the tail lights, the cowl vents etc. to get something convincing. Will I succeed to land on my feet this time? To be honest, I am not sure at all! In case, I have the 2nd backseat... But it is quite exciting to try new stuffs. N.B: to be honest too, I first thought: i won't post photos until I get an acceptable result. But I finally changed my mind, considering I had to assume my crazyness. God! the pseudo CrazyCrank is ever used (hello Thierry!) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeroenS Posted November 2, 2018 Share Posted November 2, 2018 If you show something ugly first, the effort will be more visible on the final result 🙂 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted November 2, 2018 Author Share Posted November 2, 2018 You are right Jeroens and that’s why I changed my mind Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeroenS Posted November 2, 2018 Share Posted November 2, 2018 Besides, I'm actually curious to see how you're going to tackle this issue. So just keep on posting please. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted November 2, 2018 Author Share Posted November 2, 2018 8 hours ago, JeroenS said: Besides, I'm actually curious to see how you're going to tackle this issue. So just keep on posting please. Me too, very curious! It will be definitely a long and patient work, and with the few time I have, probably taking weeks. That said, be sure I will go on posting... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted November 3, 2018 Author Share Posted November 3, 2018 Here is the Chrome central part of the steering wheel of a '64 1/2 Mustang that I will use as reference to improve the AMT Chrome part. I have chosen to remove the Chrome and should use the option TS-14 + Alclad Chrome, as for the bumpers. I will probably use a custom decal for the central logo, as I did for the wheels. Dry fit assembly: P.S: about my backseat, I just began to sand the Green Stuff (very long time drying) and applied partially on it some Mr Surfacer 500. More soon... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbostream Posted November 3, 2018 Share Posted November 3, 2018 What do you use to remove the chrome? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted November 3, 2018 Author Share Posted November 3, 2018 I use Glanzer in a US tank, you can leave the part several hours without worrying, all the details will be kept. You will find a bit more detail in my post# 49 p. 2 of this thread... Olivier Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted November 4, 2018 Author Share Posted November 4, 2018 I was not very happy with this central console that I had first decided to keep, as a compromise. Indeed, we may be quite sure, even if we don't have period photos of the interior (as far as I know), that it was missing on the 3 Indy 500 Convertible... Moreover, it is not present on the very faithful restoration by RK Motors (see fe the pic in the post# 310 above)... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted November 4, 2018 Author Share Posted November 4, 2018 I should maybe have done a better observation before the job described above. Indeed, the photos below suggest that the center tunnel rises very high (it is also very wide). So I should probably not go through the plastic by grinding the console: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted November 4, 2018 Author Share Posted November 4, 2018 The superposition photos are always very informative. I made this one to check the dimensions of the center tunnel, but it will be useful too for other details. Notice that the front seats are better (even if they must be improved) than the backseat, probably because AMT didn’t take too much care for the latter as it is nearly invisible in a Coupe... Furthermore, Bernard has kindly, to my request, given me some new measures for the area I mentioned above (post# 309): the values in brackets are the 1/16 scale ones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted November 4, 2018 Author Share Posted November 4, 2018 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ElectricLightAndy Posted November 4, 2018 Share Posted November 4, 2018 The attention to detail and the amount of research you are doing is phenomenal, this is going to be beautiful when done I can tell! Andy. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted November 4, 2018 Author Share Posted November 4, 2018 Thanks a lot, Andy, these kind words are the best encouragement for me, while I have to fight against this quite poor AMT kit (that does exist, though) to get something convincing, taking sometimes risks (like I did with the backseat...). I must say I didn't expect this build would turn to such a challenge, that recalls me the Fiat 806 saga... It will take time, but I hope I will get finally a nice result and probably, one of the most faithful replica at 1/16 of an early version such the Indy 500 Convertible of the Ford Mustang. That is, anyway, the goal I pursue, with sometimes doubts and worries, and sometimes satisfactions like with the steering wheel, fe. Cheers, thanks for following and watching Olivier 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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