Totally Mad Olivier Posted July 24, 2018 Author Share Posted July 24, 2018 1 hour ago, silver911 said: Thick household bleach is far better for removing the chrome....and doesn't leave a residue....very cheap. Do you have a precise reference for this product, Ron? Is it totally safe with polystyren? 1 hour ago, silver911 said: Regards the 'chrome' finish....'Molotow' liquid chrome is better/cheaper and has a more durable finish IMHO than Alclad. I found this: I suppose that's what you mean. Can you apply it with an airbrush? Do you thin it? What kind of paint is it? Cellulosic? Do you get the Chrome aspect of the kits Chrome parts? If yes, it would be a great new... Thanks for your help Olivier Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silver911 Posted July 24, 2018 Share Posted July 24, 2018 Any normal household bleach will do Olivier (I prefer the 'thick' variety as it clings to the pieces better)....the brand is of no concern. Over here the most common is 'Domestos'....all supermarkets have their own labels....and it is safe with all the plastics I have ever come across. Molotow comes in marker pens of various widths and refills etc. ....I get them from my local art shop....https://www.cassart.co.uk/molotow_liquid_chrome_marker.htm?trackterm=molotow But they are widely available in most countries. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted July 25, 2018 Author Share Posted July 25, 2018 20 hours ago, silver911 said: Any normal household bleach will do Olivier Ok, I will do trials, Ron. And I am gonna order the Molotow Chrome refill (30 ml) and will do trials. It seems to be a very good product, indeed. I just wonder if it must be thinned and, if yes, with what thinner. Any further info on this matter welcome... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silver911 Posted July 25, 2018 Share Posted July 25, 2018 My best advice would be to e-mail the makers direct Olivier, regards details such as thinners and airbrushing, as I have only ever needed to use the pens direct to the surface. Regards Ron 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted July 25, 2018 Share Posted July 25, 2018 2 hours ago, silver911 said: My best advice would be to e-mail the makers direct Olivier, regards details such as thinners and airbrushing, as I have only ever needed to use the pens direct to the surface. Regards Ron Like Ron, I have used them as pens but read and saw many tutorials. Youtube is loaded with them. Most are sprayed from the airbrush unthinned. The brushes clean out with isopropyl. It follows that iso will thin it in spray. Like always a test is best. I have even read that Molotow now makes spray cans.... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted July 25, 2018 Author Share Posted July 25, 2018 Thanks to both, Ron and Codger. I will do trials, indeed , as soon as I get the product, ordered just now in the 1 mm tip version. About the wheels, still no news from Round2LLC, I am going to ask again. But I could still decide to use the classic hubcaps. I was lucky and fell on a Mustang in a garage yesterday, as I was going back home after my pro working day. I made this close-up, while I couldn’t find such a one on the net: One thing is nearly sure: I won't order a 2nd AMT kit. If I can't get another set of wide tires and rims from Round2, I will choose the classic option above. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted July 25, 2018 Author Share Posted July 25, 2018 I have begun the assembly of the engine. Each part requires a good preparation, as there are many round moulding marks, and also flashes. The plastic is of average quality, better than what we could find in the Italeri/ Protar 806, but far from the Tamiya one... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marco F. Posted July 25, 2018 Share Posted July 25, 2018 Hello Olivier, concerning the Molotow theme... Scale Auto Magazine had an interesting article about it in issue April2018 Send me a PN with your mailadress and I will give you a copy of the article Cheers Marco F. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted July 26, 2018 Author Share Posted July 26, 2018 Marco has sent me today the great article in Scale Auto Magazine (pity, there is no equivalent french magazine) and the latter confirms that the Molotow Liquid Chrome is definitely the best choice today (except if you prefer to send your parts to a professional plating service (personally, I even didn’t know the latter option). The author compares not only several options for the Chrome (including the Alclad) but also the best Clear to apply on it, and the removal of masking tape after application. The best results are got with Molotow (no primer necessary) and with Spaz Stix's Ultimate Clear. More, these very good results are not affected by the application and removal of the tape. Personally, I will do my own trials first, especially with the Alclad Klear Kote (that gave great results for the body paint, see above) before buying a new Clear, especially if it comes from USA (expensive shipping costs), as soon as I get this new and as it seems great Chrome Molotow paint. The doubt remains on the question of airbrush cleaning, the article doesn’t talk about that (unless I missed that), I will have to do trials here too with the different options available, but it seems that the Molotow is an acrylic paint, what suggests alcohol could be the best cleaning option. 1000 thanks, Marco, and thanks too to Codger and Ron. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted July 26, 2018 Author Share Posted July 26, 2018 The kit's air cleaner is Chrome. I am sceptical about this color. On Bernard's one, as on many other Mustang, it is a kind of Titanium Gold. How to be sure the original was so? (the more I think about it, the more I tend to prefer representing the original car that left the Ford factory in 1965, this meaning also the choice of the hubcaps as shown on the post# 56 above). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted July 27, 2018 Author Share Posted July 27, 2018 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted July 27, 2018 Author Share Posted July 27, 2018 I have just bought this book (in french ) on Amazon. I hope it will bring new infos about this car. I read the comments and it seems that it is focused especially on the oldest versions, a good new for me... 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted July 27, 2018 Share Posted July 27, 2018 Hi Olivier Imho, the fan blades are too thick, perhaps should you try to slightly thin them ? 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted July 28, 2018 Author Share Posted July 28, 2018 Hi Thierry, it’s a very good suggestion. Notice that they were still thicker initially. Like you, I was wondering about such a thickness, but I couldn’t check these blades on the photos I have (I think they will be just a few visible at the end). This need for more informations got me to order the book I mentioned in the post above. I hope I will find in this book the necessary precisions, that will complement what I ever have. I have applied my second coat, adding a bit of White (X-2 Tamiya) to get rather an Anthracite Grey, that will allow me to use a wash technique in the hollows, around the nuts etc., with Black enamel paint and the X-20 Tamiya enamel thinner. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted July 28, 2018 Share Posted July 28, 2018 herunder what I just found on the net for 1965 Ford Mustang fan blades: If it can help you... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted July 28, 2018 Author Share Posted July 28, 2018 Thanks a lot, CC. I have just seen these pics (great) while I was posting (edited) my last photo (post# 64). Well, even refined, my blades (and not only them) are far from representing correctly the original ones. If I want an accurate replica of them, only one solution: scratch... Now the questions for me are: Will the engine be visible once on my finished model? (I had the same problem with the Chevy Bel Air). Esthetically, the model will be more beautiful imho with the hood closed, and it is so that my Mustang will be exposed. From here, 2 options: - close completely the hood (by glueing it) - leave the possibility to open it, in order people to, occasionally, discover the engine compartment. We may think that, considering the quite big scale, it would be a pity to close completely the hood, that's why I will probably choose the latter option Now, as the engine will be most of the time invisible, should I spend too much time and energy on such details as these blades? So I think I will leave my blades as they are, as a compromise, because I will ever have a lot of deep and difficult modifs to do on much more visible areas. Thank you anyway for your help, my friend. Olivier Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted July 28, 2018 Share Posted July 28, 2018 Imho, if you decide to keep the engine visible, it has to be the more realistic as possible, at this big scale. Because, hood opened, the engine and all its details is perfectly visible, as you can see below: Furthermore, I think you shoud scratch a new belt, because the kit's one is absolutely out of scale, too large, too thick 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted July 28, 2018 Author Share Posted July 28, 2018 Yes, CC, you are right, even if this means a lot of time on this engine compartment. Here are other pics. On all restored Mustangs I could see, the air cleaner hood is like that, very different from the kit's one, that was initially a Chrome part and looks like a piece for playing checkers (see the pic in the post# 61 above). Would you find a period color photo of the engine compartment, to know how it was originally? P.S: I will think about replacing by a scratch or at least refining the belt to get a more realistic one... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted July 28, 2018 Share Posted July 28, 2018 (edited) Yes of course, my dear friend: Hereunder "un moteur dans son jus" genuine unretstored engine of a 1965 Mustang: And the link on the car, to restore: Mustang 1965 dans son jus Edited July 28, 2018 by CrazyCrank 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted July 28, 2018 Author Share Posted July 28, 2018 Thanks Thierry for your research, but this engine compartment corresponds to a more sport version (the AMT kit gives the opportunity to build such a « Cobra » engine version). I am looking for the Classic engine compartment, especially for the air cleaner hood. Maybe I will find such a period pic in the book... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted July 28, 2018 Author Share Posted July 28, 2018 A great video (very rock´n roll !! 😂) airbrushing Molotow Liquid Chrome... No dilution, no primer, and a really great result. Enjoy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted July 29, 2018 Author Share Posted July 29, 2018 Hereunder my last progress. The blades have been still refined a lot, and so for the belt (thanks CC for the good hints and the pics). I have also done my wash with the Tamiya Black Panel Line Accent Color, and slightly enhanced some edges with the Giotto Mega Silver pencil. Before going further with this engine, I am gonna wait for the book, because all the photos I have are restored Mustangs ones, and I wonder if all the many elements we may see on the pics (a little scary, so complex...) were really present on the 1965 car initially (I wouldn't mind if there were a bit less...). But of course, I won't stay idly and wait until. I go on preparing parts, and, in this regard, I have a question for you: I have removed the moulding round marks on the carpet, removing also inevitably the grain supposed to figure it. More, the carpet was quite thick (see the photo hereunder) and, at such a scale, I wonder what technique I could use for a realistic effect. An option is to use an adhesive felt like I did on my Aventador... Any suggestion or reference will be welcome. Cheers, thanks for watching and following Olivier P.S: I found this on Amazon: 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted July 29, 2018 Author Share Posted July 29, 2018 On the photo above showing the carpet, you could notice the very nice Chrome plated door step. Here are new docs showing this detail (door opened), among many other details, on Bernard's Mustang: Of course, all these details are missing in the rather basic AMT kit... N.B: 1) I don't intend to represent two-tone seats, I prefer a full cream color for them. On the other hand, I should (try to) represent the inner doors exactly as they are on Bernard's car. 2) as you can see, the Molotow Chrome paint should be very useful for this build... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silver911 Posted July 29, 2018 Share Posted July 29, 2018 The Amazon stuff looks pretty good 👍 A tip for you when dealing with felt for models....it tends to be 'fluffy'....which defeats the object...as car carpets are made to be hard wearing....which means they have a course/tight pile. To achieve this look....spray it lightly...a couple of mist coats are best....using the cheapest 'hairspray' (firm hold is best) you can find You can do this prior to fitting or once it is installed. Ron 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted July 29, 2018 Author Share Posted July 29, 2018 3 hours ago, silver911 said: To achieve this look....spray it lightly...a couple of mist coats are best....using the cheapest 'hairspray' (firm hold is best) you can find You can do this prior to fitting or once it is installed. Thanks Ron for this hint. I will do trials following it... A small tuto about the leather seats. Bernard's ones are beautiful (I think they are called "Pony seats") but I don't think they used to exist in 1965. Here s a video showing how Mustang specialists restore from original (Black) seats: If I refer to this video, the AMT ones are not so bad. I will come-back on them in my next post... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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