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AIRCRAFT OF 1940"


QuadrantIV

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Hell everyone.

I have "lurked" on this forum for about two years or so and am amazed by thee models exhibited here.However,nothing daunted I shall plough on..

The facts..

I have been struck by a crippling illness,I have very little room,my mobility is very limited and I don't think that I will be producing any masterpieces=considering the fact that the last model I made was "A Bit o' Lace"  about 45 years ago..

 

But..I would like to give it a bash if I may..

My decisoin..

Airfix starter kits.In my limited space I really cannot use enamels or spray brushes.

Therefore everything will be acrylic

I was thinking..Spitfire/Hurricane or Defiant first up but have become confused by the various (otherwise very good)offerings on Youtube especially where highlighting or weathering are concerned.

 

I am not really mobile.A friend will drive me about 200 miles to purchase the basic tools that I need.After that It is up to me.

Anyone who would like to help by contributing to my list of "basic" needs would be greatly appreciated.

 

The  aircraft just have to sit on a shelf where I can "see" them..if you know what I mean..

 

Regards,

 

Greg. 

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This is what I think that i might need-please feel free to add to the list.

1.A cutting mat

2.Cutting tools.

Emory sticks of varying grades

PVA glue for attaching clear parts.

Camouflage paints (various nationalities)

Basic paint spectrum.

Clear Matt (acrylic)

Clear gloss (acrylic)

Decal fixer

Some kind of wash to highlight things..

Paintbrushes of various types.

 

Please remember that this is a one off but very exciting journey.

 

It involves going from Taree,NSW to Frontline Hobbies.Newcastle,NSW,Australia.

 

Please forgive my fingers and thumbs but that is part of the journey..

 

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Welcome aboard Greg. 

Good to see that you're going to give this modelling hobby another bash after quite a few years.

I agree that things have changed quite a bit since the seventies, however the fundamentals of good modelling (proper seam clean-up & aligning parts correctly) still apply.

I probably wouldn't get too bogged down with panel line washes and weathering just yet. Get a few neat builds painted in the right colours under your belt and then experiment slowly with each one as you go. 

 

The Airfix Starter sets are good choices and I can highly recommend the basic and accurate Spitfire Mk.1a kit. It looks the part once built and the panel lines are so deep that you won't need a wash to highlight anything.

I would also take advantage of the many good worldwide mail order outlets as even though you will need to pay extra for postage I dare say that this will still end up cheaper than 200 miles worth of fuel!!

 

Now, in addition to your list I would suggest the following -

 

- Super Glue (or CA) for those parts that just need instant fixing.

- Tamiya Extra Thin Liquid Cement

- Wet and Dry paper (400, 600, 800, 1200 grades) 

- Exacto knife with spare blades

- Optivisor (if your eyes are not the best?)

- Acrylic Paint Thinner

- Clothes pegs / bulldog clips etc. for holding bits as they dry

- .... I'll think of more when I next get on the work bench and take a look around.

 

There are plenty of products that can be found in discount stores and art supplies, so there's no need to purchase specific modelling brand' products for everything.

You will find that in time you will acquire enough modelling products to sink a small ship so take it slow, make a start and have fun.

 

Cheers and good luck.. Dave

 

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Hi Greg, welcome to the forum. I have only recently joined after returning to modelling after many years. I’ve got to agree with Dave’s comments, originally I was overawed by the skill and superb works on display, but was getting confused with washes and various other things that weren’t common knowledge 50 years ago when I build my last Airfix kits. So I’m now into my second build (motorbikes at the moment), I built the first one virtually as my teenage self did, this gave me my benchmark. With my second one I’m trying to be much more fastidious, lots of sanding, smoothing, dry fitting and I’ve learnt so much already and the members of this forum are wonderful at helping. So get stuck in and give it a go and remember that it is you that needs to be happy with the results.

I’ve bought a couple of pairs of magnifying specs from the chemist at around 10 bucks a pair which I find easy to use. The other things that I’ve got near the bench is a pot of tooth picks, useful for who knows what but I use a few, some Blutak which sticks small parts to toothpicks for painting, and some cotton buds.

I’m lucky living in Brusbane to have access to a few “local” hobby shops, but the service from reputable shops on the internet is very good, and I’ve picked up several items from “Dicount” shops.

Best Regards Ian.

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Hello Rabbit Leader (Battle Of Britain?) and Ian T-many thanks for your tips!

 

Originally I was totally overwhelmed by the sheer quality of  the kits posted on Britmodeller,

 

The Australian Gov't (bless their cotton socks) has given me the opportunity to revel in a genuine Hobby shop for a few hours.This is a bit of a logistics nightmare but they are going  to do  it.Absolutely wonderful.!

 

I need to get the basics right.

 

Wish me luck in a fortnight's time.

 

Greg.

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Airfix starter kits are fine (as the basic kits within are normally recent mould and good quality). However, I have never been too impressed with the paints supplied. I would try and get some proper paints - such as Tamiya - at the earliest opportunity and only use the starter pack paints as a last resort.

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Thank you..

 

What about Vallejo as they where pretty good when I was painting military figurines a decade ago?

 

Think of this as a one off expedition to a genuine hobby shop...

 

No legs..,and arms/hands/fingers just coming back to some kind of order..

 

I would just like to see a Battle of Britain model sitting on the bookcase...

Edited by QuadrantIV
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Hello Greg ... :welcome: to the Forum from the USA. As Dave, Ian, & Eric have covered materials i wont bother. To answer a Question for you about Dave’s screen name. I believe you are correct in thinking “Rabbit Leader” is from the film “Battle of Britain”. Two i will Re-iterate one of Ian-T’s points. Build only to please yourself. I like to ask myself if i can still be happy with the results next week ? Next month ? If so then you should be happy. Dont try to build to what you think the forum or anyone else would like, you will wind up frustrated. 

     For your Vallejo question ? I will say i use them for the majority of my builds and dont have any complaints. Just be patient and learn how to thin them down, water or rubbing alcohol work best unless you use vallejo thinners. Tamiya paints are good also but are a different animal, so different materials needed to tame them. If you come across a problem model( we all have what i call demon kits that are difficult or just not co-operating) dont give up. Set it to the side and start a different kit. You can always go back to it in the future. Last thing i will add. This is a forum so please do not hesitate to ask. You will get the answers you need just need to sit back and wait. 

 

Dennis

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:welcome: aboard Greg - you'll see already that we have some of the most friendly, helpful modellers around... oh, and this lot :wicked: We're more focused on helping modellers enjoy themselves, so don't worry too much about whether you can reach this or that standard.  You're probably too hard on yourself anyway, and as we always say - you make models for you, not for us.  If some of us like it too, then it's a bonus ;)

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Think you've already received some good advice.  Dave's advice about not running before you can walk with things like weathering and panel washes is good.  From my own experience, I'd say "Don't obsess and don't get bogged down."  The important things is to get the model through to completion so that, as you say, you have something to look at - and the satisfaction of completion.  The fact that you will know you could have done it better is irrelevant: you will have learned for next time.

 

As for tools,

 

  • I'd second Tamiya Extra Thin for cementing parts together, as well as its thicker counterpart (with a green label?): they both have their uses.  The Revell Contacta thing with a long needle-like nozzle is useful for pinpoint applications though I must say I get by without one. 
  • You will also really need that wet-and-dry paper.  Personally I've always found 400 grit too coarse and get by with just 600 and 1200 grit. 
  • I also strongly recommend avoiding the paints in the Airfix starter packs. 
  • Flow enhancer is useful for acrylics (eg Liquitex) but at this early stage water will probably do fine. 
  • Buy the best knife blades you can afford: cheap blunt ones are a false economy.  My preference over X-Acto is Swann Morton non-surgical steel blades: not sure how easily obtainable they are in Australia.
  • A set of needle files will also be invaluable.  Plastic is fairly soft so I use fairly cheap ones.  They are sold in packs but the ones I find most useful are triangular, square, round and half-round cross sections (in about that order with triangular way out ahead).

Good luck.  And above all, enjoy your modelling!

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Greg,

Whilst having a better think over your question last night I came up with the following 'essential' items that I forgot to mention.  

 

- 6 inch Steel Ruler

- Tamiya Tape (18mm is fine, you can always cut this down to size).

- Tweezers (with a sharp point)

 

Good to see that you've also received more sound advice from a few other modellers on here as well.

Oh and apologies for not picking up your query regarding the 'Rabbit Leader' tag - yes, It's a most definate link to the BoB movie which even though I've seen a zillion times will still sit down and watch it whenever it's on the Tele!

 

Cheers.. Dave.

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Welcome to the crowd! If you can go yourself or can get someone to go for you, there are plenty of items that can be had at the cosmetic section of the local pharmacy. Various grades of emery pads/sticks and various nail cutter/snips that work great with the hobby. Also there's small makeup brushes and sponge applicators that work well, too.

Don't let your lack of mobility hinder your desire to build. I'm am 6 months into an Airfix Hawker Hurricane rag-wing. This is the first kit I've started in about ten years and if I finish it, it will be the first completed kits since the 1/35 Tamiya Panther I did back in '81.

 

I'm not so much a kit builder as I am a styrene butcher!

 

 

Chris

 

 

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Hello, Greg, and :welcome: to Britmodeller, it's a great place to be; and, as you can see in the above posts; I am not exaggerating! You have already received some great advice; I do second what many others have said and build for yourself. No matter what brand of paint you buy; you should get the thinners for that brand. Also, I am glad to see that you have stopped lurking! Don't be afraid to ask for help; these are the most knowledgeable and helping people that it has been my privilege to know. Good luck to you! I look forward to your builds, comments, and questions.

Joe

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I'd also suggest Swann Morton over Xacto. Xacto insist on making their handles circular cross section - ideal for rolling off the work bench and impaling one's foot. Don't ask how I know such things.

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8 hours ago, Eric Mc said:

I'd also suggest Swann Morton over Xacto. Xacto insist on making their handles circular cross section - ideal for rolling off the work bench and impaling one's foot. Don't ask how I know such things.

Ouch!!

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8 hours ago, Eric Mc said:

I'd also suggest Swann Morton over Xacto. Xacto insist on making their handles circular cross section - ideal for rolling off the work bench and impaling one's foot. Don't ask how I know such things.

I found out the same thing!   I was given an Xacto as my first hobby knife but a graphic designer friend of my dad's introduced me to Swann Morton, which became everyone's choice at architecture school.

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Thank you all for your replies and encouragement!

You have all helped me to prepare a great shopping list.

Yes--it would be great if I could run before I can walk but I am just going to give it my best shot.

The advice about the round handled cutting tool (best avoided) was pretty neat as I never would have thought of it and,probably within the first 10 minutes or so,would have learned a very painful lesson.

I am really looking forward to going to a genuine hobby shop after all these years and I shall just sit there for the first 30 minutes or so soaking up the ambience and resisting any temptation to buy everything in sight.

 

Cheers,

Greg.

Edited by QuadrantIV
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Yes, the thought did cross my mind that our combined shopping list was so long you might conclude that this whole modelling thing is just too expensive!

 

A couple of afterthoughts:

- it sounds to me as if you are going to be brush-painting.  In that case be warned that Tamiya acrylics are not the most forgiving for brush painters (read: "virtually impossible to use"!).  I like the Revell acrylics (but don't be afraid to use a lot of water to thin them) and have an increasing number of Vallejo.  The problem with both those ranges is that colours are not matched to authentic shades, often even when they claim to be. The second point is buy the most expensive brushes you can afford: the investment will reward you and, especially if you use acrylics, they should last ages.  This might well mean buying from an art shop.  Flat brushes are indispensable for getting smooth coverage over large surfaces e.g. Varnish.  In 1/72 I use mainly  1/4" and 3/8".

 

Good luck!

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On ‎7‎/‎8‎/‎2018 at 5:53 AM, Eric Mc said:

I'd also suggest Swann Morton over Xacto. Xacto insist on making their handles circular cross section - ideal for rolling off the work bench and impaling one's foot. Don't ask how I know such things.

 

I only have Xacto and yes, they have rolled off the table, but I was quick enough to move my foot. I then shimmed up the front legs a wee bit so everything that can roll will roll toward the back of the table. There's enough stuff there to stop anything from rolling off the back.

 

 

Chris

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On 7/9/2018 at 3:47 PM, Seahawk said:

Yes, the thought did cross my mind that our combined shopping list was so long you might conclude that this whole modelling thing is just too expensive!

 

A couple of afterthoughts:

- it sounds to me as if you are going to be brush-painting.  In that case be warned that Tamiya acrylics are not the most forgiving for brush painters (read: "virtually impossible to use"!).  I like the Revell acrylics (but don't be afraid to use a lot of water to thin them) and have an increasing number of Vallejo.  The problem with both those ranges is that colours are not matched to authentic shades, often even when they claim to be. The second point is buy the most expensive brushes you can afford: the investment will reward you and, especially if you use acrylics, they should last ages.  This might well mean buying from an art shop.  Flat brushes are indispensable for getting smooth coverage over large surfaces e.g. Varnish.  In 1/72 I use mainly  1/4" and 3/8".

 

Good luck!

Hi Seahawk-many thanks for your advice.

Yes,I only have a small unit/flat and think that brush painting and acrylics is the way to go as I have nowhere to start spraying things about.

May I ask how mismatched the Vallejo colours are?

Would they stand out to a complete amateur such as myself?I am thinking of the Dark Earth,Dark Green and Duck Egg Blue/Sky

 

Now for some serendipitous news.I mentioned to a friend this morning about my "project" thinking that she might have a bit of a chuckle but instead she replied "We have a model shop right here" and took me to a small shop which had obviously seen better days and manned by an elderly gentleman whose eyes lit up when I inquired about Airfix kits.

He had a few so I purchased the Hurricane Mk.1 and the Spitfire Mk1a.He did not have any paints,unfortunately.

He also has a Stuka,Dornier and JU.88 but I will leave those for next time.

I shall check around for an artist's supply shop for the brushes.

Edited by QuadrantIV
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Welcome aboard, we're here to help in any way we can

 

I see you mentioned a cutting mat, get a better one than those green ones, Officeworks sells this one which I thoroughly recommend, impervious to paint, takes cuts without leaving an obvious mark

and as it says is clear enough you can put something underneath and read it, great for doing camo schemes.

 

https://www.officeworks.com.au/shop/officeworks/p/bantex-clear-desk-mat-ba417308

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Vallejo: to be honest, I'm not the one to ask because I mainly use Xtracolor and Colourcoats enamels for outer colours: I'm just going by the vibe I pick up on this site.  You're building for your own satisfaction so you can just pick colours that look right to you.  Or you can ask a question, probably best in the Paints section of Tools and Tips, about what are the best Vallejo equivalents for the specific Battle of Britain colours you want.  And you will probably get as many different answers as replies!

Edited by Seahawk
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PS it's as well you left the Ju 88 on the shelf as the Airfix one is about 50 years old and not very accurate.  The other 2 are new kits, both very detailed.  Because of the levels of detail included and occasional warped parts, you might find the Dornier a bit of a handful at this stage: mine is still in its box.  No such reservations about the Stuka though.

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13 hours ago, Seahawk said:

PS it's as well you left the Ju 88 on the shelf as the Airfix one is about 50 years old and not very accurate.  The other 2 are new kits, both very detailed.  Because of the levels of detail included and occasional warped parts, you might find the Dornier a bit of a handful at this stage: mine is still in its box.  No such reservations about the Stuka though.

Yes-I think the Dornier is way beyond my skill level at present but that little group of Airfix models just looked so forlorn sitting on the dusty shelves.It was a very eccentric little shop and I think that I was the first customer that the proprietor had seen for quite a while!

By the way-my apologies to the poster who is producing lovely models of the planes of 1940 on the forum.I must have just subconsciously picked up on it and then claimed it for my own brilliant idea!

 

A clear case of plagiarism but I was trying to fit an Audax in there somewhere...

 

Cheers,

 

Greg.

 

ps.My local Officeworks has the clear cutting mat.

 

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  • 5 weeks later...

Greg, at first I concluded that many of the members above had covered the basics of what you need in the way of tools. By now, you have accumulated some of these things; and, now the question is: Where to keep them? Check one of your local stores for small to medium sized plastic storage boxes. Look for ones that are long and wide enough to hold your knives, brushes, etc.. It should be deep enough as well. A depth of 3-4 inches(7.5cm-10cm) should provide all the storage space that you need. You don't want it so deep that you have to empty half or more of the contents to find the tool that you need. Ask me how I know this! Being able to stack them helps keeps their "footprint" to a minimum. As Dave, "Rabbit Leader" mentioned; there are number of mail-order outlets that service world-wide; don't hesitate to ask for such places in Australia. These guys will suggest same. Here in the USA, an outlet I can recommend is www.micromark.com. I don't say this as a way to improve US-Australian trade; rather, as your skills improve, and your "stash" grows; you will find that you need a tool, or tools, to help in your builds. Use the site to see if they offer(and they offer a LOT!) something that you may need. Then go to the local shop that you visited to see if the gentleman there can order it or a similar one for you. If he can; it should also be a bit less than ordering it from here. I believe in the "find it local, buy it local" principle. Again, good luck in your builds!

HTH

Joe

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