EthanGreen123 Posted July 1, 2018 Share Posted July 1, 2018 Hi there, I recently built a B-2 Stealth bomber and I'm overall very pleased with it however there is one issue that I'd like to fix with the decals. When the decals catch the light or if you look closely they stand out and shine like crazy! I think this is silvering. I would ideally like to have the decals and the airframe look like they are one and for the decals to have a flat matt finish on them so they look real, not look like shiny stickers that have just been stuck onto a model. This photo shows the issue, it's just from certain angles and when the light catches it the decals look horrible. If you look at the 3rd photo from above the model, the decals look great, so that's what I'd like the decals to look like all over, from all angles in whatever light. Is there a matt varnish/clear coat that I can just spray or brush onto the model and it will fix this problem or improve it? If so which one would you recommend? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevehnz Posted July 1, 2018 Share Posted July 1, 2018 (edited) The term Silvering usually refers to tiny air bubbles trapped under the clear decal carrier film, ie around the edges & between letters/ numbers in codes & serials which give it a silvery look. My screen is too small to tell whether that is your problem or not but if its just shiny decals against a dull finish you might just need to give the whole model a coat of matt or satin varnish whichever is applicable. I clicked your photos & looked at them on Flickr, I'm don't think I'm seeing silvering, just shiny decals, certainly in the nose on shot no silvering, hard to tell in the brightly lit low angle shots but I reckon its just shiny decal film that needs a top coat to match the model Steve. Edited July 1, 2018 by stevehnz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lasermonkey Posted July 1, 2018 Share Posted July 1, 2018 In my experience, the only way to avoid silvering is to make sure you have a smooth, high-gloss finish for the decals to adhere to. I use a decal setting solution, usually Microset, along with a decal solvent, to ensure the decals "bed down" properly. Any bubbles are pricked with a needle and more solvent added until the decal has snugged down. I then coat with more gloss and once that's dry, the final matt or satin finish. That said, some decals (I'm looking at you, FCM!) will silver anyway, whatever you do. You tend to find that out the hard way. It may seem like a bit of a faff, but it's well worth spending the time. Good luck! Mark. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EthanGreen123 Posted July 1, 2018 Author Share Posted July 1, 2018 1 hour ago, stevehnz said: The term Silvering usually refers to tiny air bubbles trapped under the clear decal carrier film, ie around the edges & between letters/ numbers in codes & serials which give it a silvery look. My screen is too small to tell whether that is your problem or not but if its just shiny decals against a dull finish you might just need to give the whole model a coat of matt or satin varnish whichever is applicable. I clicked your photos & looked at them on Flickr, I'm don't think I'm seeing silvering, just shiny decals, certainly in the nose on shot no silvering, hard to tell in the brightly lit low angle shots but I reckon its just shiny decal film that needs a top coat to match the model Steve. Thanks Steve, yes that is the case, it's only when the light catches the model, like in the photos do the decals really shine and look bad(unrealistic) Is there a particular Matt coat that you'd recommend? I'd just like to brush on a coat or if it's a spray can then just spray it on. Ethan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevehnz Posted July 1, 2018 Share Posted July 1, 2018 I'm a bit out of my depth with the correct finish for something like a B.2, Windsor & Newton Galleria matt acrylic varnish is talked of very favourably by those who use it but I understand it gives a very matt finish I've used Vallejo matt which I find however much I stir it is not really flat but a dull satiny finish which I think looks a better scale finish than a really flat matt or even a really high gloss, I've also used Liquitex matt varnish after a recommendation here on BM & like it, applied with a broad flat brush, it self levels well, other than those I've no experience with spray varnishes or any other types, others may chip in. Steve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted July 1, 2018 Share Posted July 1, 2018 I've moved your topic into a more appropriate area for you As the guys have said - applying decals over a high gloss finish is the best way to avoid the trapped air we know as silvering. If you want the decals to appear one with the airframe as if they are painted on, there are a few ways, but as you've already applied them, there's really only one. That is to apply coats of a tough gloss varnish such as Klear or Aqua Gloss over and around the decals, leave it to set, then sand back the decals very carefully. You keep doing this until the decals are level with the clear coat, and then you can give the whole airframe a coat of matt or satin varnish to harmonise the finish, depending on the look you're going for. I used this technique on my Mig-31BM a few years back, and it was very effective. You'd be hard pressed to see any carrier film at all. If you have silvering - patches of lighter appearance under the carrier film of any decals which is visible from any angle, that's relatively easy to fix with some decal solution and a sharp #11 blade (or a pin). Simply pin-prick all over the affected area and the put a quantity of decal solution over it, encouraging it to soak into the holes with some dabbing. Repeat until you're happy with it. Then varnish over it, as it's best done immediately before you've put anything over the top Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EthanGreen123 Posted July 1, 2018 Author Share Posted July 1, 2018 (edited) 7 hours ago, Mike said: I've moved your topic into a more appropriate area for you As the guys have said - applying decals over a high gloss finish is the best way to avoid the trapped air we know as silvering. If you want the decals to appear one with the airframe as if they are painted on, there are a few ways, but as you've already applied them, there's really only one. That is to apply coats of a tough gloss varnish such as Klear or Aqua Gloss over and around the decals, leave it to set, then sand back the decals very carefully. You keep doing this until the decals are level with the clear coat, and then you can give the whole airframe a coat of matt or satin varnish to harmonise the finish, depending on the look you're going for. I used this technique on my Mig-31BM a few years back, and it was very effective. You'd be hard pressed to see any carrier film at all. If you have silvering - patches of lighter appearance under the carrier film of any decals which is visible from any angle, that's relatively easy to fix with some decal solution and a sharp #11 blade (or a pin). Simply pin-gentleman's parts all over the affected area and the put a quantity of decal solution over it, encouraging it to soak into the holes with some dabbing. Repeat until you're happy with it. Then varnish over it, as it's best done immediately before you've put anything over the top Thanks Mike for the info and advice. What would happen if I just applied a matt coat will it fix the shininess of the decals? As it's a finished model and I'm really pleased with it I don't want to try anything I've never done before and end up damaging it beyond repair. If I was in the process of building it still then I'd be more open to trying new things. Which matt coat would you recommend? I think I've said this before on the forum but your MiG-31 is stunning! Great looking model of a formidable aircraft. There was a really interesting article on the Foxhound in AirForces Monthly last month. Worth a read. Edited July 1, 2018 by EthanGreen123 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted July 2, 2018 Share Posted July 2, 2018 I've had a few matt varnishes that I've used in the past, and the common theme is that if you don't shake them thoroughly (and I mean til your arm hurts), you'll eventually curse any varnish, as you'll end up spraying all the carrier, and be left with a stronger and stronger mix of matting agent that leads to a chalky finish. AKAN Aqua Matt, Alclad Flat, and I used to use Vallejo matt too, but migrated away after my bottle started giving me chalky results due to the effect I've just described. My fault, not the varnish Did you say you were brush-painting? Not sure about brush painted flat varnishes, as I don't do it. If you don't have access to an airbrush, perhaps a rattle can might work for you? Again, you'll have to ask the others as I've no experience with rattle can varnishes, but the advice about shaking it will still hold good Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gamevender Posted July 2, 2018 Share Posted July 2, 2018 (edited) Here's my decal routine: 1. Paint 2. Gloss coat 3. Decal applied with setting solution 4. Gloss coat. This is an important step as it "seals" the decal and gives it the same reflective finish as the model. 5. Final coat, gloss, dull or semi, as appropriate. Step 4 can be critical as you have found out. The inks used in decals and the overcoats and carrier films need to be sealed so they receive the final coat in the same way as the surface o the model. It also serves to blend in the thickness of the decal with the surface of the model. As to a "fix" for your problem, it's a little late to use my suggestion, but you might try any of the available dull overcoats. Edited July 2, 2018 by gamevender Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ratch Posted July 2, 2018 Share Posted July 2, 2018 For the best results that eliminate silvering, it is advisable that decals are applied to a glossy surface. Matt surfaces are rough and can capture air bubbles between the decal film and the matt surface: It is therefore advisable that any matt surface be changed to gloss. You may well have read that Klear is the recommended medium, another suitable product is Humbrol Gloss Cote and there are others. My weapon of choice is Klear. I have got away applying a single coat, but three coats are normally recommended to ensure that glossy surface. It may be applied with an airbrush, but I find a good, soft, wide brush adequate. Each coat of Klear takes approximately twenty minutes to dry, so progress on your build will not be delayed too long. Remember to rinse the bristles of the brush in warm, soapy water after applying the Klear. What tools and equipment? Scissors – you’ll need to cut the individual decals from the backing paper. Dish – most manufacturers recommend warm water to soak the decal in and loosen it from the backing paper. I’m not sure why; although I always start with warm water, after ten minutes or so in the dish, the water is less than tepid and yet the decals still slip off (eventually). Tweezers – to extract the decal (on the backing paper) from the dish and transfer it to the model. Paint brush – to apply Micro Set, position the decal on the model, and apply Micro Sol. Micro Set aids the adherence of the decal to the model and Micro Sol helps the decal conform to any curvature of the surface. Referring to the instruction sheet, identify the decal and the position on the model where it requires placing. Cut the decal from the sheet and place it in the dish of water. Apply Micro Set to the area on the model where the decal will be positioned. Check the decal for movement on the backing sheet: The backing paper should be thoroughly soaked (no dry spots), be careful not to damage the decal film, use a soft brush to test whether the decal is slippery on the backing sheet. You will find that the decals from some manufacturers loosen from the backing paper much quicker than those of other manufacturers. Indeed, some take an age to loosen; be patient, it will come off in the end! Extract the backing sheet from the dish with the tweezers. Use the brush to slide the decal from the backing sheet onto the model, and then use the bush to position the decal correctly. Repeat as necessary. When the decals have been positioned for approximately fifteen minutes, Micro Sol can be brushed over the decal(s) to ensure they conform to any curves (complex or simple) on the model. When thoroughly dry the decals should be sealed under a varnish of your choice (Matt, Satin or Gloss). This will protect the decals from damage. Its as simple as that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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