Mikey-1980 Posted September 20, 2018 Author Share Posted September 20, 2018 I have left them off for the moment pending paint. I guess I could leave them off and fill in the small hole that holds them in place? I'm a little while off paint to make that decision yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey-1980 Posted September 21, 2018 Author Share Posted September 21, 2018 (edited) Last night I made an executive decision, and despite spending the best part of a weekend sanding and smoothing out the wing tip fuel tanks....I decided not to add them and filled in the mounting points..... I also added the antenners and additional details to complete te main principle build. DSC_1728 DSC_1729 I'm pretty sure I managed to line everything up ahead of paint... DSC_1730 And just for funzies, a size comparison to the 1/48 Hunter I built earlier in the year..... DSC_1731 Prior to the paint booth, I'll have a go at the under carriage assemblies as best I can and then prep all the flaps ready for paint.....then the decisions of what colours to go with?? I am still leaning toward the light sky grey underneath, and the NATO cammo pattern on top as per the PR.9 at RAF Cosford, and the 58 Squadron based at Wyton in 1971(ish) Thoughs and ideas are as always, most welcome...... Edited September 21, 2018 by Mikey-1980 spelling mistake 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canberra kid Posted September 21, 2018 Share Posted September 21, 2018 6 minutes ago, Mikey-1980 said: Last night I made an executive decision, and despite spending the best part of a weekend sanding and smoothing out the wing tip fuel tanks....I decided not to add them and filled in the mounting points..... I also added the antenners and additional details to complete te main principle build. DSC_1728 DSC_1729 I'm pretty sure I managed to line everything up ahead of paint... DSC_1730 And just for funzies, a size comparison to the 1/48 Hunter I built earlier in the year..... DSC_1731 Prior to the paint booth, I'll have a go at the under carriage assemblies as best I can and then prep all the flaps ready for paint.....then the decisions of what colours to go with?? I am still leaning toward the light sky grey underneath, and the NATO cammo pattern on top as per the PR.9 at RAF Cosford, and the 58 Squadron based at Wyton in 19701(ish) Thoughs and ideas are as always, most welcome...... Mikey given the camera fit and the RWR on the tail I would say 1 PRU would be your best option without too tanks too. High gloss camo finish but 'MEDIUM SEA GREY' not light aircraft grey underside, only the Hemp PR.9'a had LAG underside. John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey-1980 Posted September 21, 2018 Author Share Posted September 21, 2018 Thanks John, The Tamiya rattle cans I have should be ok (I will double check the Medium Sea Grey) to get the initial paint scheme and then finish with a high gloss after all of the decals are applied....then a light a bit of weathering around certain areas. I'l also have to double check I have the right decals from Hannents now for 39 Squadron....as I seem to recall having them for 58 squadron instead? unless the opperated the same scheme? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Filler Posted September 21, 2018 Share Posted September 21, 2018 I've really enjoyed reading this build and you're doing a great job. The camera detail is absolutely brilliant. You've definitely inspired me to get my copy of the kit out of its box and built. Have you filled in the heavy panel lines on the rudder? That's about the only thing I know about this kit, that they've apparently almost non existent on the real thing but very trench like on the kit. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey-1980 Posted September 21, 2018 Author Share Posted September 21, 2018 Hi @Filler Thank you for the words of encouragement and great to hear that you're enjoying th build so far. I has been a fun build to do so far. A few issues with the cockpit alignment but with a little patients and a tonne of filler it can be sorted. I know what you mean withthe panel lines on the tail rudder. I have seen pictures were they are barely visable, but I haven't sanded them down......yet...though I think I may do so now. just enough so that they are still there as I understand the rudder was made from wood? Correct me if I am wrong though The camera idea actually came from an older thread on here, appologies for not crediting the chap who provided me with the lightning bolt of an idea. beat the £15 fee for a resin part....just a works pen, some plasti-card and a bit of imagination...plus @canberra kid 's MASSIVE archive of Canberra photographs. This is John's archive, well worth a good few hours pouring over them ahead of your build - https://ipmscanberrasig.webs.com/apps/photos/?&pagesize=36&page=1 Looking forward to seeing you start it too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Filler Posted September 21, 2018 Share Posted September 21, 2018 If you are thinking of doing anything with the rudder, please do check and don't just take my word for it. I mentioned it as I recall reading about it previously (probably when I bought the kit) a I seem to recall that whilst the tail & rudder are felt to be a little thick, running something like Mr Surfacer 500 into the lines is the preferred action as opposed to sanding. I think they should still be visible, just not deep. But as I say, please research it before doing anything. I'll look forward to you getting some paint on soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey-1980 Posted September 21, 2018 Author Share Posted September 21, 2018 Will do Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canberra kid Posted September 22, 2018 Share Posted September 22, 2018 @Mikey-1980 Mikey, you are nearly right about the plywood fin and rubber, the Canberra has a plywood area on the fin, (the grey area in the photo below) the original purpose of this was to allow the fitting of an areal inside the fin, they could have used glass fiber but I suspect the fact EE.Co had a lot of skilled joiners on strength involved in Vampire production using wood made sense. All Canberra's had this except the Martin B.57 Canberra's and the GAF MK.20's which had the wood replaced by Aluminium as a later Mod. I have a detailed drawing on the rudder on my site indicating the skinning Here. Whilst we on the subject of the fin and rudder, don't forget to add the rudder power control fairing on the bottom of the port fin/rudder Airfix missed this! John 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey-1980 Posted September 22, 2018 Author Share Posted September 22, 2018 Thanks John, The fairing definitely isn't on the kit, but shouldn't be too difficult to make from some plasticard. I think I'll make a solution of filler and water to calm down the panels lines on the rudder. Sand it down so they are barely visable. Looking at tamiyas paint codes, I think AS-28 or AS-11may be suitable. One is a medium grey or medium sea grey. AS-28 may be the most suitable I think? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
exdraken Posted September 22, 2018 Share Posted September 22, 2018 (edited) Very nice build! She is big, isn't she?! Edited September 22, 2018 by exdraken 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey-1980 Posted September 22, 2018 Author Share Posted September 22, 2018 That she is! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey-1980 Posted September 24, 2018 Author Share Posted September 24, 2018 (edited) OK, Its getting to the point of deciding on the paint scheme and decal selection for the Canberra. Although the thread title is stated as 58 Squadron, I think it could easily morph toward 39 Squadron.....SO with that in mind these are the decl and paint scheme options.... DSC_1740 DSC_1739 Now with this scheme for the PR.9 circa 1971, I can remove the RWR if needed... DSC_1737 Still yet to decide with medium grey from Tamiya would be the best option// AS-11 Medium Sea Grey (RAF) or AS-28 Medium Grey I'm leaning toward the AS-11 as a more suitable colour for theunderside of the fuselage.. Thoughs are welcomed Edited September 24, 2018 by Mikey-1980 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stever219 Posted September 24, 2018 Share Posted September 24, 2018 I’ve missed this thread for a while but you’ve made great progress Mikey. When it comes to a choice of colour schemes pick one as late in the Canberra’s service life as possible to tie in with your camera fit or you’ll have either to undo a lot of your hard work or endure the thousand screaming agonies of the rivet-counters having a pop at you😫. It may be the colour balance on my device but the Tamiya AS28 looks closer to Medium Sea Grey than AS11 does: the latter looks more like slightly lightened Light Aircraft Grey from here. Before you get to the painting though you might want to slap some filler on most of the fuselage panel lines as well as those on the rudder: most of them are far too prominent and several are in the wrong place (and I won’t go into the missing ones and doubler plates). Canberras have very smooth skins with almost no visible panel joints on the fuselage: you will see some “dishing” of the skins around rivet heads (which is what I suspect the “panel lines” on the rudder are meant to represent) but no major steps or gaps at joints. If you want to delineate some panels you might want to draw them on with something like a 2H pencil, but I’ll leave that up to you. Keep up your good work on this one: I’m looking forward to seeing the finished result whichever jet you choose (XH165 would be my favourite but she was retired early😥😥). 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey-1980 Posted September 24, 2018 Author Share Posted September 24, 2018 Hi @stever219 I'll defo bare that it mind when I'm getting it all prepped for paint. The tails it caked in filler at the moment and will be sanded and sanded and sanded haha! The rest of the panel lines I'll look at closer at them to see what I can do. I am with you on that the AS-11 looks closer to the right shade of medium grey paint, andI think I will be leaning toward the 1980 PR.9 at 39 Squadron instead of 58. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canberra kid Posted September 24, 2018 Share Posted September 24, 2018 (edited) Hi @Mikey-1980 I'm going to muddy the waters, to me AS11 looks quite good, but it's not the best way to judge a colour. I would say with the fit you have 'Role3' with the F.49 you would be safe for anything from 1977 on. I'm not going to get involved in the panel line debate, just to say much of what is on the kit is either missing or wrong! John Edited September 24, 2018 by canberra kid added a bit 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey-1980 Posted September 24, 2018 Author Share Posted September 24, 2018 Well gods damn it!! 😂 😂 I'll just have to do the best I can with what the kit is. I'll sort some of the panel lines and the tail section too. 1980 Canberra it is then..... And now morphing into 39 Squadron instead. Once paint is done and decals are starting to come together it will start to look a lot better than the mass of filler it's turning into haha! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Lyttle Posted September 24, 2018 Share Posted September 24, 2018 Don't worry @Mikey-1980 it's only somebody with an eye like the Canberra Kid can spot the difference in panel lines...😎 If you have the Airfix trenches dealt with, she's going to look great in a coat of paint. As John will testify, they were very neatly put together airframes and I think even in 1/48 there's not much to be noticed. Going to look great 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey-1980 Posted September 25, 2018 Author Share Posted September 25, 2018 (edited) Cheers @rob LyttleIt is definately a testement to the engineering and workmanship of the desiners and aircraft builders for the Canberra. Unfortunately my access to the work bench has been temporarily blocked off....normal service to resume this evening I hope Edited September 25, 2018 by Mikey-1980 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey-1980 Posted September 26, 2018 Author Share Posted September 26, 2018 Mornining all interpid followers of this build......With Bake off in their Spice week and the ladies of the house happy and contented to see which person will fail spectacularly, I trundled off the work bench to do a little more... First off was to tackle the rudder and the tonne of filler I had put on it. From looking at various images of later spec Canberra's and taking on board the kind advice from both @Filler & @canberra kid I have tried to create an effect with the rudder using the filler. The idea is that whilst filling in the trenches that are the panel lines, but also to cover them up partially, thus when painted it should give a faint look of the panels lines but not completely. I hope that makes sense? DSC_1743 DSC_1744 The rudder power control fairing will be added eventually. After this, my attention turned to looking atthe front under carriage assembly....and my concern is this with Airfix.... As we know, the front undercarriage is a duel wheel assembly. Front Rear with the mud gaurds Now, my issue is this. The assembly instructions look reasonably straight forward, attach mud gaurds, and then the wheels on afterwards on the assembly pins... DSC_1746 However, Airfix only provided one pin on the Port side with bugger all on the Starbord side for neither the mud gaurd nor the wheel hub.....Time to go full on B.A Barracas and scratch build something that will work....Has anyone else encountered this issue? *N.B. This image is showing the rear of the assembly... DSC_1745 In other news, I will be "passing" eModels in Stoke on my way back from a customer meeting in Glossop tomorrow to pick up some AS-11 paint. As this will need to be finished in a High Gloss finish, I will be seaking their advice on which top coat lacquer to use that will not damange A) the decals and B ) the paint itself.. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canberra kid Posted September 26, 2018 Share Posted September 26, 2018 (edited) Looking good Mikey, yes I've had the same issue too, some kits are ok others have the same problem as you, I normally cut off the rdmaining peg, drill through the leg and put a Brass rod through instead. John Edited September 26, 2018 by canberra kid Removed duplicated text 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey-1980 Posted September 26, 2018 Author Share Posted September 26, 2018 Now thats an idea? I have some stiff wire that I could use in its place...thanks for the tip their John first the power control fairing to make and attach 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Filler Posted September 26, 2018 Share Posted September 26, 2018 The rudder is looking much better like that and that's the kind of fix to a model I can handle. I never realised the Canberra had mudguards though. Always seemed like a Soviet design feature to me. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey-1980 Posted September 26, 2018 Author Share Posted September 26, 2018 I'm guessing they are there to prevent any risk of mud / dirt being flicked up and landing on the optic casing windows for the camera's just to the rear of the undercarriage? I'm happy with the rudder and I am looking forward to seeing how it turns out with the paint and the "battered skin" look through years of usage. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sturmovik Posted September 26, 2018 Share Posted September 26, 2018 6 hours ago, Mikey-1980 said: However, Airfix only provided one pin on the Port side with bugger all on the Starbord side for neither the mud gaurd nor the wheel hub.....Time to go full on B.A Barracas and scratch build something that will work....Has anyone else encountered this issue? *N.B. This image is showing the rear of the assembly... DSC_1745 I knew someone else had to have this issue with Airfix's Canberra, it's also present on their B.20 model. Last time I built the model, I used tube glue and let it set for the night before adding weight to the model, it became really sturdy after that, and was able to withstand over 70g of lead weight. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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