Jump to content

Streaky gloss paint, humbrol red and yellow


Pete McGreevy

Recommended Posts

Hi all, rekindling my youth of building airfix models, instead of trying to build it and then lash paint on with a roller, I'm trying to take a bit more time.

 

However, after trying and failing miserably to get a nice finish on a red arrow with the gloss red, I read alot about them and I thought I'll try thinking the paint and using a flat brush. No dice.

 

Has anyone pearls of wisdom firstly he get this paint off and secondly, how to get a much nicer finish with the yellow on this my seaking

 

2805jbb.jpg

 

Apologies if this turns upside down.

 

Pete

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Use matt or satin paint. Brushing gloss can be a real pain. And do thin the paint.Use gloss varnish over anything you want shiny at the end. Try looking for quick kits on youtube. His speed builds and other videos are gems for learning brush painting.

Edited by sapperastro
Link to comment
Share on other sites

If they are acrylics* add Winsor & Newton 'Flow Improver' or/and 'Slow Drying Medium'. Both work the same; slowing the drying time, but the Flow Improver helps the paint flow eliminating brush strokes.

I add the F.I. as a matter when ever I open a new pot of acrylic paint

A 125 ml bottle of F.I. will cost about a fiver but you only add about 2ml to each 14ml paint pot

 

* I guess they are as I see a Humbrol acrylic paint pot in your photo

Link to comment
Share on other sites

thanks for that gents.

 

Are there any suggestions for removing the current paint, or fixing it, ive read about letting it sit in various solutions, but inside is painted too so i dont want to undo that.

Currently im set up with meths, a toothbrush and the world cup for tonight.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As the paint is fresh, [I presume it is] its still not fully hardened [as opposed to dry - not the same thing] I reckon; lots of clean kitchen paper towel, your meths and your old tooth brush should be capable of removing it. oh, and cotton buds are useful too

Revell does a model friendly paint remover. B & Q does a plastic friendly paint remover as does Wilco [name?]

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cheers fella!

 

Sorry for badly rotated pics.

That was easier than I thought, took a while to scrap most of the crap off but once a skiff of primer went over the top it came out not too bad.

 

question is, should I risk it all again and use the umbral yellow gloss 69 spray can, or go and get a matt yellow and potentially varnish it?

If so, which umbral colour would be similar to the 69 in matt?

 

Thanks!

ww0whe.jpg

2en495x.jpg

b4b75u.jpg

Edited by Pete McGreevy
pics messed up
Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you are now going to use a spray can of Humbrol 69; it'll cover best over a white primer or a matt yellow, or even an orange. It will take a lot of coats to cover grey primer. For a matt yellow primer in a spray can - Humbrol 24 Trainer Yellow.

'Mist' the coats on - that is; just a light spraying to get a wee bit of colour on, let that dry for a bit, that allows the carrier solvent to evaporate off - also known as 'flash off'. Then spray a second coat, a bit heavier, let dry and flash off, then a third coat.

The third coat should be getting you some gloss, but you'll need a fourth and maybe even a fifth coat

If you lay on the paint too thick at the start the solvent will attack the paint job and you'll have to scrub it all off again

Warm the spray can by standing it a pot of very warm - nearly hot - water; that'll help mix the paint and keep the pressure up inside the can

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Personally I'd use a dedicated model paint in a spray can such as Tamiya TS spray. Light coats will build up a nice finish and the gloss on those paints is really nice. Or use an acrylic car paint in a spray can in gloss. They cover much better than Humbrol yellow. Oh, as already mentioned use a white primer as the base not grey. Yellow paint is renowned as being a poor hider/coverer, so a dark grey primer will be a devil to cover. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the help so far all.

 

I had a can of humbrol 69 already so I tried that just to see.

Im not pro, as the pic shows, but at least its a solid colour.

I found it very thick going on, and I really...really want an airbrush for this kind of thing.

Hopefully when the mask comes off the windows it'll look ok, and slightly better with decals

 

4htlw5.jpg

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

42 minutes ago, Pete McGreevy said:

Thanks for the help so far all.

 

I had a can of humbrol 69 already so I tried that just to see.

Im not pro, as the pic shows, but at least its a solid colour.

I found it very thick going on, and I really...really want an airbrush for this kind of thing.

Hopefully when the mask comes off the windows it'll look ok, and slightly better with decals

 

4htlw5.jpg

Hi Pete - Airbrushes are certainly great - but red and yellow paints are still a beggar to get on.  They need several light coats to build up any opacity - it is the nature of the colours themselves I believe.  Loving your Sea King though - persevere and you will get there:goodjob:

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Well folks, i kind of got by the way side with this build, i think the yellow paint kind of depresed my a bit when i was putting so much effort into taking my time wiht this one.

still a few things that didnt go to plan but its all in the practice., and i have ordered an airbrush kit, cheapy but itll do to start, and paint camo.

 

Finally pulled my finger out and decalled it up and painted a few of the remaining bits that needed painted.

 

 

seaking.jpg

Edited by Pete McGreevy
  • Like 6
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I quite like the current Humbrol acrylic sprays. In my experience you need to shake them until your arm feels like it will fall off to get the paint nice and liquid - then shake it some more.

 

If the paint is going on to the model too thick, then you're spraying too close. Back the can off a couple of inches. Humbrol have a couple of videos on using their aerosol primer and Metal Cote but the basics are the same:

 

 

 

Adam Savage's Tested YouTube channel also has some good videos. He and other contributors use spray cans extensively in their work. This is a sample:

 

HTH

 

John

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Warm the spray can in water first. Put it in a tub of quite warm water (not boiling) with something on top to hold the can down. just make sure the can is submerged to about the halfway mark. leave it in there for 10 minutes. This helps break down the paint blobs in the can and make them easier to mix when shaking. Take it out, wipe it down so it doesn't rust, then shake it vigorously. the rest is covered in the videos.

Quote

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...