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Sherman Firefly VC


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Hello all!

 

I am straying into unknown territory here, and have recently dabbled with the Asuka Sherman Firefly VC in 1/35 scale. Military vehicles are not a genre I am familiar with, so there may well be some glaring errors with this (I recall making a Tamiya motorbike and side car with the Red Cross markings, but added the machine gun too for example).

 

I had an absolute bundle of fun with this, I was truly amazed at how well it went together, quite a few parts did not even need glue the fit was so snug. The kit itself had 4 options, and there were call-outs to highlight what bits were needed for which one. The biggest problem I had was that a lot of the information was in Japanese, with not much translation. The upshot was that I had to guess on quite a few bits.

 

Weathering is not a strong point of mine, so it is seen here fresh from the carwash. I also was unsure about how to deal with the tracks. They were stuck together with CA gel, and they stuck like a limpet, which was one surprise, but the instructions suggested not using enamel or acrylic paints on them, so as I had nothing else, I have left them black - forgive me! The kit was brush painted with Humbrol enamel paints, and they worked a treat.

 

This was intentionally a fun build while I recovered from an operation, but it was just interesting enough to keep me going. I can highly recommend this brand, I was highly impressed.

 

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One thing I must say, there were some incredibly small bits to this!

 

Thanks for looking

 

Ray

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Not using enamels I can perhaps understand.  But not using acrylics seems a bit odd.  As you say, what else is there?  Fully water-based paints will most likely just run off or form into big blobs.

 

I have the Asuka Sherman III kit and its instructions say to use primer to improve adhesion (improved translation!) and "laquer paint" on the tracks, but quote Mr Color references.  Mr Color is acrylic.

 

I also have the Tasca boxing of the VC Firefly kit, same as yours I think without the thickened turret cheek.  I can't see any mention in those instructions about painting the tracks.  Perhaps they changed in the re-branding from Tasca to Asuka.

 

As a habit I would never use vinyl tracks.  This kit (no fault of the modeller here) illustrates one reason why this is especially so on M3 and M4 based kits.  Their tension can pull the bogies up off the ground at front and back.  They should be fully flat on the ground.  But the tracks in this kit are too short for this with no means of adjustment.  The Italeri M4s suffer the same problem, although that's more to do with track stiffness than length.  Individual link tracks allow for tension adjustment, but can drive you potty building them.

 

I bought my VC 2nd hand including a set of Modelkasten tracks.  I wonder if the seller knew something that I've only just now discovered?

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3 minutes ago, Das Abteilung said:

 

 

As a habit I would never use vinyl tracks.  This kit (no fault of the modeller here) illustrates one reason why this is especially so on M3 and M4 based kits.  Their tension can pull the bogies up off the ground at front and back.  They should be fully flat on the ground.  But the tracks in this kit are too short for this with no means of adjustment.  The Italeri M4s suffer the same problem, although that's more to do with track stiffness than length.  Individual link tracks allow for tension adjustment, but can drive you potty building them.

 

I bought my VC 2nd hand including a set of Modelkasten tracks.  I wonder if the seller knew something that I've only just now discovered?

 

Hello, I noticed the bogies pulled upwards when I was making it. It takes quite a bit of weight to press the tank down so they sat straight - it also showed I managed to build the bogies and not seize them up with glue! I don't think I will pour in a load of lead though to get them level...It is the main thing I am unhappy with!

 

Thanks for the reply,

 

Ray

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I like it, and as you say it's about enjoyment of the build.

 

Not familiar with Mr.Color, but if they are compatible with Tamiya paints then their formula isn't truly acyrlic (like Vallejo for example).  So possible has some lacquer properties and the reason it is suggested for the tracks?

 

regards,

Jack

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2 hours ago, Soeren said:

A nicely detailed kit and good looking build. Great thing about AFV, you can always come back and improve them.

Yes, that is true. The tracks will come back off if I want, the sprockets(?) and idlers(?) are not glued on so will be able to be removed if I can find out about the paints. My main paint stock is Humbrol acylics and enamels, but I also have a selection of Revell acrylics too, so may well try them and see what happens!

 

Thanks again for the comments,

 

Ray

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Yes, you could change the tracks now if you wanted to.  Just snip off the current ones and fit some new ones.  Whose Sherman tracks to use is a whole new discussion........

 

Don't try to weight it down.  The amount of weight will be more than you expect and the likely result is that the sprockets and idlers will be pulled off and perhaps the bogies will collapse.  The tracks won't stretch.

 

If you're new to armoured vehicles, tracks are one of the most problematic and discussion-stimulating aspects.

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Nice build Ray, you've definitely got probably the best Sherman kit on the market. Looks ok from where I'm sitting. The rubber band tracks are a bit of a pain, if the rear idler isn't secure you can move it around to get a better fit on the tracks. Where about in the forest do you hail from?

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Nice job with the Firefly. If you don't want the bother of replacing the tracks, one way around it is to make a base for the model, and make the terrain uneven, so that it appears that the tracks are riding up over mounds. Good luck.

 

John.

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12 hours ago, Buzby061 said:

Very creditable first attempt. Do you have any plans for another?

 

Pete

 

Hello Pete, not at this time. I prefer to do ships and aircraft, and a bit of scratch-building, but AFV's are a nice distraction, I do have a Tamiya Matilda in the stash so may have a go at that if I can find out the proper camo for it (I have read that the 'Caunter' scheme they showed was wrong.

 

13 hours ago, Das Abteilung said:

Yes, you could change the tracks now if you wanted to.  Just snip off the current ones and fit some new ones.  Whose Sherman tracks to use is a whole new discussion........

 

Don't try to weight it down.  The amount of weight will be more than you expect and the likely result is that the sprockets and idlers will be pulled off and perhaps the bogies will collapse.  The tracks won't stretch.

 

If you're new to armoured vehicles, tracks are one of the most problematic and discussion-stimulating aspects.

 

So I am finding out! I do not think I have the patience to make up track lengths from 5 or 6 bits per link...

 

Thanks everyone again for the comments,

 

Ray

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12 hours ago, Ozzy said:

Where about in the forest do you hail from?

 

Hello Ozzy, I am a couple of miles outside Cinderford. It is a wonderful part of the country.

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I think the Matilda scheme itself is OK, as in the pattern.  It's the colours they got wrong: there was no blue.  Colours were Light Stone, Slate - a grey-green - and Silver Grey.  There are a couple of acrylic Caunter paint sets out there.  If you have the older Tamiya Matilda I/II offering, the new III/IV one is better.  In either case there are a host of resin upgrades and add-ons from Tiger Model Designs (TMD).  Both kits have vinyl tracks (although there are individual link alternatives) but here you have a different tension problem.  If you fit them after painting you can't join them, so lack of tension becomes a problem.  If you fit them before painting, then painting becomes difficult. 

 

See, you can't win - you can only play the game.  Welcome to tanks .........!

 

On the subject of fiddly individual links, the various brands of metal ones tend to be simpler as they generally have one-piece link castings and use a length of wire to make the pins.  But very expensive.  And I imagine the M4 types still have 3 pieces per link.

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7 hours ago, Ray S said:

 

Hello Ozzy, I am a couple of miles outside Cinderford. It is a wonderful part of the country.

Definitely is Ray, I've got relatives that live in Lydbrook and enjoy every visit. 

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17 hours ago, Das Abteilung said:

I think the Matilda scheme itself is OK, as in the pattern.  It's the colours they got wrong: there was no blue.  Colours were Light Stone, Slate - a grey-green - and Silver Grey.  There are a couple of acrylic Caunter paint sets out there.  If you have the older Tamiya Matilda I/II offering, the new III/IV one is better.  In either case there are a host of resin upgrades and add-ons from Tiger Model Designs (TMD).  Both kits have vinyl tracks (although there are individual link alternatives) but here you have a different tension problem.  If you fit them after painting you can't join them, so lack of tension becomes a problem.  If you fit them before painting, then painting becomes difficult. 

 

See, you can't win - you can only play the game.  Welcome to tanks .........!

 

On the subject of fiddly individual links, the various brands of metal ones tend to be simpler as they generally have one-piece link castings and use a length of wire to make the pins.  But very expensive.  And I imagine the M4 types still have 3 pieces per link.

 

Cheers for that information. I will do the kit one day, but I have a few other projects to finish first. I have saved your reply though and put it with my kit! It is the III/IV issue, the one which some reviews suggested was a surprise for kit No 300 and expected something more famous! Personally I thought it was great choice...

 

16 hours ago, Ozzy said:

Definitely is Ray, I've got relatives that live in Lydbrook and enjoy every visit. 

 

Make the most of your visits Ozzy. They are not too far from me.

 

Ray

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