Duncan B Posted July 7, 2018 Share Posted July 7, 2018 12 hours ago, stevehnz said: That looks good Duncan Ok, so I'm biased 'cause I've got these decals too though I'm guessing yours might be 1/48 There is no doubt some practice makes better but I reckon it is a forgiving method, hiccups are recoverable & it also has the beauty of enabling second layer decals to go on fairly soon, rather than waiting over night. Steve Thanks Steve, practice will make better I'm sure. Those are the 1/72 scale decals. Duncan B 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevehnz Posted July 7, 2018 Author Share Posted July 7, 2018 1 hour ago, Duncan B said: Those are the 1/72 scale decals. Your photography lead me to think they were bigger, nicely done. As an aside, which Typhoon kit are they designed for or maybe more pertinently which one have you used? They fit very well. Steve. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duncan B Posted July 8, 2018 Share Posted July 8, 2018 7 hours ago, stevehnz said: Your photography lead me to think they were bigger, nicely done. As an aside, which Typhoon kit are they designed for or maybe more pertinently which one have you used? They fit very well. Steve. Not sure if they are generic or not but I used the Hasegawa kit (I have not enjoyed the build, wing and intake joints in particular were not very good). Duncan B 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevehnz Posted July 8, 2018 Author Share Posted July 8, 2018 After making the request of the mods, this thread has now been PINNED in Tools & Tips, Decals. Thanks to which ever mod did the deed, hopefully it will become a useful resource as others contribute their experiences with this method. Steve. 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uncle Pete Posted July 16, 2018 Share Posted July 16, 2018 Nice to see you pros weighing in on this. I'd been floating them in on a puddle of diluted Quickshine but figured it was probably the wrong thing to do even though I was getting positive results. I don't even prime the whole thing with a coat of gloss or Quickshine first, just dump it right on the matt paint. After they dry I flood them with the Red Micro-thingy bottle a couple of times and they seem to like it well enough. Doing it that way gives me more time to slip and slide before it says, "Till death us do part". I found it especially good for those little warning triangles that are about the size of a titmouse's toenails. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevehnz Posted July 16, 2018 Author Share Posted July 16, 2018 I was doing OK without glossing till I got to some Academy stencils, , since then, I figure a quick (brushed) coat of whatever it is you use, KOE, Quickshine, Pascoes for us down under, is easy insurance against really bloody minded decals. Steve. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uncle Pete Posted July 16, 2018 Share Posted July 16, 2018 8 minutes ago, stevehnz said: Academy stencils You mean the ones made from 10mm MDF? 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cocky05d Posted July 27, 2018 Share Posted July 27, 2018 Talking of Klear ,my bottle of Pledge multi surface wax is getting low ,i bought it just after i returned to modelling in 2011 . It has the red label ,they seem to be selling it with blue labels now .Is it the same stuff ,and what would be a fair price for a bottle of 750ml . Any help would be helpful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bentwaters81tfw Posted July 27, 2018 Share Posted July 27, 2018 It's slightly different. Some people get on with it, others not. Go the Quickshine route. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cocky05d Posted July 28, 2018 Share Posted July 28, 2018 Hi ,thanks for the reply ,never heard of quickshine ,had a look on ebay .Seems a bit expensive ,i can get the Pledge stuff for £3.95 from Sainsburys Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theplasticsurgeon Posted July 28, 2018 Share Posted July 28, 2018 On 6/29/2018 at 10:31 PM, Duncan B said: I tried to ‘float’ decals into place with Kleer once before and it left a raised ring of dried Kleer around the edge of the decal. I didn’t dilute it though so is that likely to have caused the ring? Duncan B Did you wick any strokes KOE away, when the decals was positioned properly? That's where Is think the ring came from. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theplasticsurgeon Posted July 28, 2018 Share Posted July 28, 2018 (edited) This is the method I've used for decals for many years - and and am seledom defeated by decals. I tried Microsol and Microset once, couldn't get on with it - and the smell! I panic-bought Klear at the end of its sales, and have never used anything else. Probably have a lifetime's supply. My thinking is for Klear to fill any gap between the decals and the model, leaving no space for any air. Air causes the silvering - so don't let any in. I press the decal down with an old tee-shirt to wick up any excess. The thinner the Klear, the quicker it dries. Be VERY careful handling the model, decals have come off , onto my fingers. As Steve describes, another coat overall to level the surface, before a matt finish. But be careful here you can activate setting Klear, resulting in some solid stuff on the surface of you model. Edited July 28, 2018 by theplasticsurgeon correction 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duncan B Posted July 28, 2018 Share Posted July 28, 2018 8 hours ago, theplasticsurgeon said: Did you wick any strokes KOE away, when the decals was positioned properly? That's where Is think the ring came from. To be honest I can't remember however the thinned Kleer as per the OP worked very well for me recently. Duncan B 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bentwaters81tfw Posted July 28, 2018 Share Posted July 28, 2018 10 hours ago, cocky05d said: Hi ,thanks for the reply ,never heard of quickshine ,had a look on ebay .Seems a bit expensive ,i can get the Pledge stuff for £3.95 from Sainsburys You get what you pay for. How big a bottle in Sainsbugs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cocky05d Posted July 29, 2018 Share Posted July 29, 2018 I think it is 750ml ,and the price is £3.15 .I got some Astonish wood floor polish a while ago ,any views on that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bentwaters81tfw Posted July 29, 2018 Share Posted July 29, 2018 Never tried it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billn53 Posted December 25, 2018 Share Posted December 25, 2018 Stevehnz -- Thanks for sharing your Klear/Future technique for decals. I'm in process of decaling my Ford Tri-motor build and your method is working fine on the Tri-motor's corrugated surface. Link to my build is here: -Bill 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevehnz Posted December 25, 2018 Author Share Posted December 25, 2018 Thanks Bill, I wish I could claim credit for this method, alas no but I've had such good results from it, it seemed a shame not to spread the word. Seeing your decals go into those corrugations like that has removed the doubts I expressed earlier in the thread. 👍 Steve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Herbert Posted August 20, 2019 Share Posted August 20, 2019 Thank you from a beginner, I just completed at long last A revel mosquito. I made a lot of errors but the worst has been the decals. Next model I’ll try this method. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevehnz Posted August 20, 2019 Author Share Posted August 20, 2019 (edited) It is worth trying it out on an old model (or plastic spoon) with some spare/unneeded decals to get a feel for it. I've found it a forgiving method that allows me quite a lot of wriggle room in repositioning a slightly out of kilter decal, up to several hours after the event, the trick being that fresh Future/Klear dissolves stuff that has already set, so dab some around the edge, till that stiffish small brush can tease a corner up, then progressively flood the decal with more that will penetrate till it can be moved. It does take a delicate touch, there is always the danger of tearing or folding the decal but taking it slow & careful, I've been amazed at what I've been able to do. I do this with the same dilute mix that I bed the decals with. Steve. Edited August 20, 2019 by stevehnz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rabbit Leader Posted August 30, 2019 Share Posted August 30, 2019 Although I've known about Steve's Clear solution decal bedding technique for a while now, I hadn't actually tried it until last night. I can't quite place my finger on it, however I've had a few roundel application problems of late where I've had to resort to removing the Micro Sol/Set or Mr Mark Softer / Setter decal due to shrink damage or lack or proper adhesion. I decided to bite the bullet and give this a try and boy was I pleasantly surprised. It does pay to try it on some old decals first, but once mastered (it won't take long) it's so easy to do. Anyway - I thought I'd just add my small story to this thread to further endorse this simple but effective technique. Thanks @stevehnz, much appreciated. Cheers.. Dave 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevehnz Posted August 30, 2019 Author Share Posted August 30, 2019 Cheers Dave, it is a revelation isn't it. Good tip to try it out to get the feel for it first. Steve. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Faraway Posted January 15, 2020 Share Posted January 15, 2020 On 30/06/2018 at 21:10, bentwaters81tfw said: The very same Do you think this will be ok to dip canopies in, to make them more like glass ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bentwaters81tfw Posted January 15, 2020 Share Posted January 15, 2020 7 minutes ago, Faraway said: Do you think this will be ok to dip canopies in, to make them more like glass ? yes. works well just put them on a paper towel to dry 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rabbit Leader Posted January 15, 2020 Share Posted January 15, 2020 12 hours ago, Faraway said: Do you think this will be ok to dip canopies in, to make them more like glass ? However there’s no need to dilute the Klear. Just pour it into a plastic cup, dip your canopy and once finished pour the Klear back into the bottle. It’ll last for a good time longer that way. Cheers.. Dave 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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