Academy 1/72 p47d Razorback decals . White 17 .

[cocky05d]

Hi ,finishing up said model the one with the yellow and black checkerboard tail .Having a job getting said decals to stick to the tail .

Using solvaset decal setting stuff ,the decals just shrug it off ,i can even move the decals that's how little effect it has .

Earlier i used solvaset on a Airfix 1/73 BF 109 e and it worked ok .

Anyone have any suggestions as to a different decal solution.

[djos]

Hi sorry maybe i sow this too late.

In general when ever i have decals which can not be beaten with all normal chemistry, ACADEMY almost always, i use TAMIYA extra thin approach.

in general never put it on whole decals only on borders and place where i had panel lines. And almost always in one pass. Second pass always EAT decal, for sure so you will need to repair it afterward.

Also same approach when silvering can not be removed, very small amount on silvering place will eat decal (silvering border or empty space)

At the end be careful, watch closely how decal behave and GOOD LUCK!

Best regards Djordje

 

[cocky05d]

Hi ,thanks for the reply ,i found another thread about using Tamiya extra thin ,i tried it and it worked ,but i did loose some of the decal ,so i am reduced to yellow and black paint.

[Corsairfoxfouruncle]

You can use PVA clear glue to hold decals down. Some add it to the water others use clear coat brushed on ? I use the clear canopy glue myself for decals that are uncooperative. 

[stevehnz]

Klear, or its equivalent. i'm struggling to understand why the message isn't getting through after umpteen threads like this. Klear or equivalent, henceforth refered to as KOE, is flaming brilliant for bedding decals in my experience any decals. I've never used a Sol/Set system & never had a fail other than some stencils I hadn't glossed under properly, so gloss with your choice of floor polish, i've only ever used one coat even on the mattest of paints, when dry, do whatever you need to do to get the decal to release the paper, I dip into warm water & then set it on the table for a short while, as long as it takes for the decal to slide. Slide it onto a well wetted area of a dilute KOE solution, +/- 30 % & use a stiffish small brush to position. use the corner of a paper towel/tissue to wick away excess & either press down with said paper towel/ tissue or use a damp cotton bud/q-tip thingy to roll the decal onto the surface. If all is OK up till now, step back & wait till the KOE dries & watch it suck the decal into surface detail as it does so. No silvering & truly that painted on look. A layer of KOE over the top to seal & its ready for your favourite matt coat or whatever. IF, within a short time you spot that your decal has wandered off it's designated spot, flood a generous puddle of the KOE solution & use the small stiffish brush to carefully tease up an edge, a panel line is handy for this & allow the solution to penetrate under the decal as you lift it till you can reposition & then repeat the early steps as before. chuck away your sol/set stuff, this method just simply works, it'll even stick down decals with crappy glue or that have been left for too long in the water to float them off, hence why I don't leave mine in the water.

Steve.

[cocky05d]

Hi ,this is the first time i have had any problems with decals ,haven't heard that KOE is god for sticking decals down ,i spray a coat of it before i start decaling !

[stevehnz]

Try it, I reckon you'll like it. I don't claim it as my idea originally but when I first read about it, it made a lot of sense to me & the first time I tried it I was hooked. Sorry if I came across as a zealot but when I read of guys having problems with stuff that attacks their decals I feel obliged to share my good tidings.

Steve. 

[cocky05d]

Is it possible to move the decal when using KOE ?

[dogsbody]

Steve, what do you use to thin the Klear?

 

 

Chris

 

[stevehnz]

9 hours ago, cocky05d said:

Is it possible to move the decal when using KOE ?

Yes, that's why I dilute it a bit, it seemed from what I'd read, that straight KOE grabbed the decal quite quickly, whereas diluting it gave a bit more wriggle room. The tricky part is having the decal shift as you wick away the excess, but this is generally easily fixed by putting on some more solution & lifting an edge with the positioning brush to let the Klear solution flow under it & allow you to reposition. I should advise for people to try it with a smaller less important decal in an inconspicuous place rather an upper wing roundel or cross as we like to begin with, until you get a feel for it. Every decal sheet will react a bit different but its not hard to find how they'll go & adjust the amount of solution used or how vigorously you can wick up excess & press down the decal with a cotton bud or tissue. Some of my jobs have been fiddlier than others but I've got them there in the end

9 hours ago, dogsbody said:

Steve, what do you use to thin the Klear?

Chris

 

Just water Chris, no nasty dissolvy chemicals.

I should point out I've begun a thread in the paints & glues (& decals) forum

Steve.

Edited June 4, 2018 by stevehnz