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Spitfire LF.Mk.Vb 1/48 Airfix Club


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This will be my second model and since I have a high level of personal interest invested in my (potentially depending how this goes) third model I bought this cheaply as a practice kit. Much as I'd love to build the all black version I want to practice weathering and brush painting (since I don't own an airbrush) among other things and the black just wouldn't offer enough variety to learn on.

I have seen many Spitfire builds on BM and I gather there are some fans, I only hope they aren't all slumped in tears in the corner praying I don't butcher this one. I have no idea if "Airfix Club" or "Limited Edition" has any special meaning I just got it cheap from my local shop, I will apologise in advance if I turn something which is indeed "Limited" into a big blob of glue with some plastic sticking out.

 

I've done no research on this aircraft - it being just a playground for my finger-painting - so the colours won't be perfect (LOL, I'll be lucky if they're identifiable) and I will build it just as it comes, that's the plan anyway.

 

As a beginner I realise my posts will likely not contain anything educational for others but if anyone reading them has any advice, input, laughter or just needs to let loose as I murder their favourite aircraft then I welcome any and all comments.

 

a09afc.jpg

 

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Hello Agent K,

No probs, you're welcome !

I don't think that there are any differences except for the boxing...

It's a good kit, of course, the new moulding are better, the only difference is about the structure lines.

On the old one, the lines are drawed with a plow !!

You must consider an airbrush... However, I'm still learning how to use it properly..😁

The paint scheme is generally accurate enough on Airfix kits, and that all black Spitfire is gorgeous !

You can also call on @Beard He seem to love Spitfires 😱 And hairy stick !!

So come on.... I'll have a look from time to time, everyone has something to learn whatever !

Sincerely.

Corsaircorp

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23 minutes ago, Oberleutnant said:

Also a beginner!

 

Good luck with it.

 

Not seen these limited edition ones before.

 

Look nice!

Wow, Oberleutnant and the Molch insignia !

Do you know H.U Rudel ?? :cheers:

Sincerely

Corsaircorp

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19 minutes ago, corsaircorp said:

Wow, Oberleutnant and the Molch insignia !

Do you know H.U Rudel ?? :cheers:

Sincerely

Corsaircorp

Fantastic knowledge 👏

 

No, I didn't know him!

 

My profile name stems from a distant relative who flew in Schlachtgeschwader 2 under Rudel.

 

He was an Oberleutnant flying the FW190 F-8 in the latter stages of the war and previously flew Stuka's in the Battle of Britain and then BF109s.

 

I am not German (English) but found out about the guy through my grandfather who met him several times post war as did my mother and the rest of the family.

 

My great uncle married a German woman post war and her father was the Luftwaffe pilot.

 

May I ask how you know so much about the unit?  

 

 

 

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Sure you can ! I first read "Stuka pilot" when I was 5 years old....

And tried to learn more since that day, 

I must confess that I took the book in my father's cabinet and hide myself when reading...

I also spent and still spending a great amount of time in historical researches, including Aircraft archeology.

That's all, Hum, No, I have a Rudel's Stuka on my bench and all the other significants aircraft he has flown in my kit stock.

Noy only H.U but also Charles Yeager, Roland Beamont to name a few...

Then I did an F-8 Focke, the one from Lörcher...

Und Foilà !

Sincerely

CC

 

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If you're going to do the 111 Squadron one, it's worth considering using something like Tamiya NATO Black (which is a very, very, very, etc, dark green) rather than a plain black.

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Well I have managed to get half of the cockpit area together. I have been using this amazing site as a reference:

 

Anatomy of a Spitfire

 

I wasn't happy that there was no real back cushion on the pilots seat so I made one from blue-tac (putty might have been better but I don't posses any). There were no seat belts included in the kit either, perhaps Airfix thought that nobody insane enough to climb into a plane I've built would either care or deserve them? Anyway I made some using a small piece of material painted with PVA glue to prevent fraying. The buckles - rather basic I realise - were made from the wire out of those sandwich bag ties.

 

I've never done any weathering before so for a first time I am quite pleased with the results so far. I've been using water colours from a tube and a metallic silver pencil crayon.

 

 

a2dnh1.jpg


slmkcn.jpg


28kiur8.jpg


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2aipvfs.jpg

 


I have a question if anyone is watching this...

 

Regarding the aircraft console shown below. I have a pin vice on its way to me and I was considering drilling out the console instruments, sanding the piece B10 from the back making it much thinner then applying the decal on the rear. I would then add glass to the instruments themselves with either floor polish (future/pledge whatever it's called where you are) or PVA glue.

Now obviously someone else, somewhere has tried this before, does it work, is it worth the effort? My thinking was that it would add a bit of depth to the instruments and allow me to weather the panel better since it wouldn't then be covered by the decal.

 

2q06rk6.jpg

 

 

Thanks for the comments everyone.

@Beard- Thank you for the tip, I'd really love to build the black version it's so tempting but it would defeat the object of why I bought the kit in the first place.

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Hello @KelT ... Great work on your cockpit so far. Yes you can drill out the instruments and glue the decal at the back. I use pledge so that will work. Make sure the holes are clean with no debris in them. Beard has built the all black spitfire amongst every other spitfire in his endless spitfire build thread. The whole thread is amazing to look through. 

https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235024115-my-endless-spitfire-build-painting-a-mkvi-about-to-start-an-az-mkxiv/

If you get a chance take a wander through it. As for weathering remember this. “Less is more.” You can easily go back and add more. However its not easy to remove weathering without making a mess. 

 

Dennis

Edited by Corsairfoxfouruncle
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20 hours ago, corsaircorp said:

Sure you can ! I first read "Stuka pilot" when I was 5 years old....

And tried to learn more since that day, 

I must confess that I took the book in my father's cabinet and hide myself when reading...

I also spent and still spending a great amount of time in historical researches, including Aircraft archeology.

That's all, Hum, No, I have a Rudel's Stuka on my bench and all the other significants aircraft he has flown in my kit stock.

Noy only H.U but also Charles Yeager, Roland Beamont to name a few...

Then I did an F-8 Focke, the one from Lörcher...

Und Foilà !

Sincerely

CC

 

 

Good stuff.

 

I've also read Stuka Pilot which is an excellent book.

 

I don't particularly like the bloke who was a Nazi lets face it and his involvement in helping escaped party members to South America isn't particularly pleasing and isn't actually touched on in the book as you know.

 

I do admire his abilities though and will make a 1/48 scale Stuka at some point too.

 

I know Hasegawa do one plus another supplier the name of whom slips my mind.

 

Do you have any knowledge on how the Germans do their map coordinates?

 

I'm trying to work out where my relative crash landed.

 

I've got a reference but it makes no sense to me.

 

I'm going to create a thread within 'aircraft related subjects - resources'.

 

A good source of knowledge on this website.

 

 

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3 hours ago, Oberleutnant said:

 

Good stuff.

 

I've also read Stuka Pilot which is an excellent book.

 

I don't particularly like the bloke who was a Nazi lets face it and his involvement in helping escaped party members to South America isn't particularly pleasing and isn't actually touched on in the book as you know.

 

I do admire his abilities though and will make a 1/48 scale Stuka at some point too.

 

I know Hasegawa do one plus another supplier the name of whom slips my mind.

 

Do you have any knowledge on how the Germans do their map coordinates?

 

I'm trying to work out where my relative crash landed.

 

I've got a reference but it makes no sense to me.

 

I'm going to create a thread within 'aircraft related subjects - resources'.

 

A good source of knowledge on this website.

 

 

Hello,

I agree a good 150%, but on the other hand, he cannot be blamed as being a turncoat ! 😁

He was a good friend of D. Bader, and if my memory did'nt fail he was also the godfather of P. Closterman's son... 🤔

When you are peering into REAL history, you can sometimes be really amazed...

The germans are only now trying to locate their fallen or missing soldiers BUT !!

And that's a big but(t) if you try to find some infos, you must get through a lawyer... It's very expensive.

The ex German soldiers were badly treated by their fellow citizens, 'till the '80 at least.

I knew a time, not far from today, when you find the remnants of a german soldier, they were picked up by the police

Put in a garbage bag and sent to Wemmel to be thrown in an boneyard whitout much care....

Vae Victis as they say. Today, when this occur, they were retrieved by german embassy.

Go on a very good website called MIA, will put the URL.

They did a lot of retrieving, very good guys indeed, they are now searching the whole Europe !

If you have any info, PM it to me, I will check my references. Up to you of course !!

As an example, in my home town alone, there was 47 crashes in the era from 1939 to 1945 !

If I can help, do not hesitate, it's also a part of my passion.

Have a look at my thread about Ton's up Lanc !

Again, only if you want of course !

Sincerely.

CC

PS, enough drift from our friend thread, you can go on my threads unless KEiT is not disturbed...

Must saythat I live not too far from Florennes, it was a Nachtjagd nest at the time....

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Nice work so far! Seat and belts looks great! :)

 

Håkan

 

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I have a question for anyone who may be able to help...

 

This was bought as a practice kit before I start my next model which is to be a Fleet Air Arm Fairey Swordfish. I had the plan to then go on and build aircraft from the FAA 1939-1945. A little accidental research shows that the FAA had a LF.Mk.Vb spitfire for a couple of months in order to test for carrier compatibility. The aircraft in question never made it to testing as it had a minor accident on delivery and was returned to the RAF.

 

I have found one image of the aircraft # AB986 although it is from later in its life while it was in service with the RAF. I can't include that image here since it's copyrighted but here is a link.

 

As you may notice it's so very close to the aircraft I was building as to be pure, wicked temptation. Obviously I can cut the decals on mine to create the MT part of the designation and remove the AB981 from the overlapped one. My problem is in creating the yellow V and the smaller serial number on the tail. Being a beginner I don't have stacks of unused decals to look through and I was wondering if there might be an easy way to achieve the result I'd like?

 

I haven't ever done a decal before so I have no idea what to expect from them. Is the sheet a complete sheet or are the transfers individual? I was thinking that if there is a small blank section on the sheet I could hand draw the serial number and create my own decal. The yellow V is another problem entirely.

 

 

 

 

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Hello KeIT,

Do you know the generic lettering decal sheet,

You choose the one you need since there is lots of dimensions !

Fleet Air Arm ?? Great taste my Dear ! I really enjoy the idea !

Will have a look in mine...

Great taste Really !

Sincerely.

CC

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I didn't know there was a generic sheet but it would have to be the correct scale and colour too right? I am thinking that I might be able to recreate the "V" using some kind of vinyl making tape its a fairly easy letter to cut out if I can scan the original letters and match the font and size. I'd probably have to do the "MT" too otherwise it might look weird but fortunately they are quite simple letters too, I suspect curved letters and those with hole in them such as B would be more of a challenge.

 

As for the serial number I'm still pondering that, it doesn't look generic in fact I've never seen one painted on the tail like that. I have posed the question on another aircraft specific forum but it could be something to do with painting perhaps. It being white doesn't help the matter much either, I suppose there is such a thing as white permanent markers with which I could hand write onto some blank decal sheet.

 

Everything is at a standstill just now model wise since I am waiting on my pin vice in order to open up the console instruments so I shall have time to do a little more research, it's an interesting aircraft though since it was the first - well second technically - to be sent to the FAA for catapult testing and conversion to Seafire. Perhaps not the emotional story I am looking for in my future models but this one was kind of thrust upon me accidentally.

 

EDIT:

I wrote to the owner of the original photograph and was granted permission to use it here. The original site can be found here.

So this is now the target subject for this build.

 

14jz5fb.jpg

 

Edited by KelT
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Hello KeIT

Here's an example, https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/MS48036

Now, I will buy another Mk V, good idea !

Let it roll ! That's the way, you get an idea, let it mature, start another kit in the waiting time...

And you will became another Corsaircorp ...:rofl2:

I'm going for a 2 days trip and I'll pay a look in my stock, may be I can find Something…. Twice now 🤨

Sincerely.

CC

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Hi KeIT. I do like what you have done with the cockpit and I'm looking forward to seeing your Spitfire with some paint on. :popcorn:

Kind regards,

Stix

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Well I've not managed to do much modelling this week. Also I'm still waiting on my pin vice and I really want to try it out on the console and some of the bulkheads so I've kind of stalled a little until that arrives.

 

I have been practicing my painting though and have completed the lower parts of the aircraft in Medium Sea Grey using Vallejo acrylic. I bought a range of paints last shopping day, one each from Model Master, Mr. Hobby and Vellejo, having already used Tamiya and Humbrol, I have to say I love the Vallejo it's a pleasure to work with, unfortunately it doesn't mix with the alcohol based Tamiya of which I have several pots so the switch will be a slow process.  The Mr Hobby was dreadful on a test piece, I have it in Dark Sea Grey and it just doesn't cover and appears lighter then the Vallejo Med Sea Grey. Using some of the techniques I learned from PlaStix's video I think things are turning out okay overall, I just have to find my own zone of comfort but perhaps an air brush won't be required after all once I get the hang of things, something which makes me very happy indeed.

 

I seem to be getting a lot of little bubbles in my paint as I apply it and read that it might be down to my tap water so distilled water is on the next shopping list. I tried different brushes and it's the same with each, without water it's fine but too thick of course but the moment I add water, bubbles. I tried adding the smallest drop of washing up liquid but still the bubbles remain so I will see how I go with the distilled water.

 

The down time has given me plenty of opportunity to do more research and this has become quite an interesting build but I shall save the story until the RFI post.

 

I'm still not sure how to make the decals I need but I've ordered some blank decal paper despite not having the capability to print colour. I'm hoping I can print the squadron letters on the back of the decal sheet, then paint the front in Sky and finally cut the letters out from the rear using the printed letter as the guide. Time and experimentation will tell how all that goes. As for the tiny little serial number I'm going to try buying a white ink pen and do some practicing at writing tiny letters. At least with the blank decal I can afford to make errors in my attempts rather than just drawing them onto the tail itself.

 

Anyhow, a couple of pictures just to say I'm still here and I've not taken up golf instead.

 

First coat, I suspect a little thin I did better on the first pass on some of the other parts.
xopeh4.jpg

 

After four coats.

2iizj83.jpg

 

zur0w2.jpg

 

 

 

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1 hour ago, KelT said:

I love the Vallejo it's a pleasure to work with, unfortunately it doesn't mix with the alcohol based Tamiya of which I have several pots

No as a matter of fact i use Isopropyl alcohol 50% or 70% to clean my brushes for both Tamiya and vallejo. 

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I too use alcohol (Tamiya thinners) for cleaning my brushes in a water-thinner-water style but I tried mixing a little Tamiya XF-1 with my Vallejo and ended up with a thick gloopy mess. Perhaps I should try again? Do you thin Vallejo with alcohol?

 

EDIT:

 

@Corsairfoxfouruncle Ah I think I misread your post as saying that they do mix but after reconsideration I now think you were agreeing that they don't?

 

EDIT2: I need to go read up on how you make one of those black flag things I see when you guys do an @ to me.

 

EDIT3: Test of @Corsairfoxfouruncle, Ah that's better, I cut and paste last time, simple when you know how. 😊

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by KelT
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Im sorry @KelT I was trying to say the two paints definitely do not mix. I do use alcohol to both clean and thin Vallejo and Tamiya. My technique for mixing paint (Tamiya & Vallejo) is to put a small amount of paint into a bottle cap. I use disposable water bottle caps for mixing paint. I then dip the tip of my brush into the alcohol. Next i mix the paint till i get a watery consistency. Repeat as necessary. I have a standard jar of alcohol for most colors. A seperate one for white so as not to change the color. I use clean alcohol in a cap for yellow (i rarely use yellow so don't need a seperate jar) again so as not to change the color. 

     I think if i remember correctly that vallejo is water based Acrylic. Where as Tamiya is Lacquer based. I think that is why the two combat each other and gum up. Over time because i use multiple types of paint. I will clean my brushes in Tamiya yellow cap Lacquer thinner to get them really clean. And sometimes mineral spirits if ive been using enamels. Ive been using the same brushes for 20 years. So something must be working. 

 

Dennis

Edited by Corsairfoxfouruncle
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Thank you for clarifying. I hope my brushes last ten years never mind twenty but since they were pretty cheap I'll also be glad if they last a couple of models until I can buy some better ones.

 

I'm hoping to use only the one type of paint as much as possible and after making up a paint chart for myself five or so Vallejo should do most of what I need while I am continuing my study of the Fleet Air Arm. Hopefully I can use the Tamiya and Humbrol I have already on interiors and so forth. I was liking the Tamiya but I am loving the Vallejo and their colour range. I also find it easier, quite possibly psychologically, using only water to thin and paint with. Well apart from the bubbles. I'll try thinning Vallejo with alcohol as an experiment but I'd have thought it would lessen the drying time? Something I'm trying to avoid.

 

It's a shame they don't mix since I will have two separate paint stores now but I'm sure I'll use them eventually. Thanks again for the information, there is so much to learn and I am very much in the early stages still, I do sense myself starting to get a feel for my own preferences, which is a beginning, I always appreciate advice and I need to try as many things out as possible in order to decide what works best for me.

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Well my pin vice finally arrived and I drilled out the console. Was it worth it? With the wait certainly not but this is a practice piece so I have to say yes since I learned a lot from it. Sanding the console thin and drilling were the easy parts, lining up the decal was the difficulty.

 

I stuck the decal to the back of the console which is the reverse of how it would normally stick down and to be honest it didn't. Stick that is. As it was drying it was peeling away so in an attempt to rescue the situation I tried to glue the console and the bulkhead together. The glue disintegrated the decal leaving just an impression on the bulkhead side. It was enough to see the instruments but not great.

 

Overall, since the console likely won't be visible, it was probably too much work. On a kit where the instruments are more visible in the final model I'd have to say I do really like the effect and would possibly do it again. Next time though I would trim the decal smaller than the console, place it on the bulkhead rather than the front and figure out a better way to align things having removed the pins from the rear of the console.

 

I also took out the center of the foot pedals as they didn't look right solid.

 

2mhsksy.jpg

 

foetco.jpgrjfwqe.jpg

 

sze4q8.jpg2m7gq3p.jpg

 

 

 

So... pass me the glue, I wanna stick some things.

Edited by KelT
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I guess the way to decal as you describe, KeIT, would be to add some plastic to the back of the console and sandwich the decal between the two. Or you could try the Yahu Models IP, which looks excellent (not sure on availability down under, though).

 

If you're still having problems with the Vallejo Model Colour bubbling, may I suggest that you try not thinning the paint on your palette? Try thinning it on the brush, as it were. I usually paint VMC with a damp (not soaked) brush and relatively small quantities of paint, and I'm usually pretty happy with the result. Or you could go further and use the pre-thinned Model Air range, but you'll probably find that coverage of larger areas will require several more coats with that product. It's about now that I guess I encourage the acquisition of an airbrush. I resisted for years, then spent several more years with a barely used airbrush because I couldn't figure out how to paint effectively with it. Last year I tried again and something clicked, and I'm a convert. I only wish I'd had someone to show me what I was doing wrong the first time as it can be daunting initially when trying to deal with the many variables. However, from your pictures, your detail brush painting looks excellent.

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@amblypygid:

2h8cm69.jpg The decal is sandwiched between the console (B10) and the bulkhead (B12), normally it would be on the front of B10 in this kit.

My problem was that I tried to stick it to the back of B10 and it refused to stay put. Attempting to sandwich it the glue destroyed the decal leaving little more than an imprint on B12.

 

Your suggestion is an excellent one though, if I had stuck the decal to a thin piece of clear plastic first then trimmed it to size I could have manipulated it into position easily and taken my time gluing. Thanks for that I will be sure to remember should I ever be mad enough to try this again. This was my first ever decal and I had no idea what to expect, the youtube videos are great but I was still nervous as hell.

 

I am convinced that the bubbling in the paint is my tap water, it's pumped from a tank and is likely very aerated to begin with. I've tried not using a palette, tried using wet palettes, normal palettes, different brushes and even different paints (Model Master) but I always get the little bubbles. I need to try distilled water but its the one thing I keep forgetting every time I go out. Tomorrow I will remember.

 

I see so many videos which use airbrushes and believe me I can see the benefits but for me it would change the way - and the place - I model. I've seen some incredible brush painted models on BM from people such as PlaStix and I'm determined to try and reach a reasonable level myself. I can appreciate it makes my life harder in many ways but brush painting makes it much more enjoyable in others. Add in the fact that just starting out there is so much stuff to buy anyway I really can't justify $350 on an airbrush any time soon, that's quite a few kits I could buy instead.

 

Thank you for taking the time to offer help amblypygid it is always appreciated. I will certainly be trying the plastic for my decal in future.

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