fjaweijfopi4j48 Posted June 8, 2018 Author Share Posted June 8, 2018 (edited) Ahem... After finishing the first engine, I realized I was using the wrong one. The correct one for the 10E version used by Amelia was the Pratt & Whitney R-1340 Wasp. Small Stuff also has that one, so take not if you are interested. Radial Engines and Wheels, and Engines & Things from Canada also sell those. Oh my oh my. Anyways, let's finish this one before changing engines. Sigh.... Edited June 8, 2018 by Moa to correct typo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Holden Posted June 8, 2018 Share Posted June 8, 2018 21 minutes ago, Moa said: I of course am not familiar with the design and manufacturing implications of this sort of product, but I would have loved the spark plugs to be molded together with the cylinders, which I think offers no problem, and the leads and distribution ring as one whole part to fit on. I had to use all spares provided, and lost/damaged a very high number of parts. This is a very detailed and exquisite product, but I humbly think it could be made more practical too by simplifying it a bit. Again, my eyesight is not what it used to be. They are high-end products produced by a perfectionist, for perfectionists. They are not for average modellers and should not be promoted as suitable for such. I suspect most would throw them away in disgust before successfully completing one. I've built half a dozen now and have always evolved my own way to assemble them, deviating somewhat from the suggested method of assembly which didn't work for me. But like you, I usually end up losing or breaking a few of the parts. Personally, the ancillaries on the back of the engines are a waste as I never build dioramas, etc, which would render them exposed. My other gripe is that the lower portion of the cylinder should be a square, fitting into a square recess as it would greatly improve the alignment before the glue sets. I like the spark plug/lead design myself, which is ultra-realistic, but you can't please all of the people all of the time. Overall, I love these products. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fjaweijfopi4j48 Posted June 8, 2018 Author Share Posted June 8, 2018 Spark plug: Lead: Engine painted with black base coat: 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Holden Posted June 8, 2018 Share Posted June 8, 2018 11 minutes ago, Moa said: Ahem... The correct one for the 10E version used by Amelia was the Pratt & Whitney R-1340 Wasp. You're going to need a bigger cowl....... Those are bigger engines and not interchangeable with the Wasp Jr. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Courageous Posted June 8, 2018 Share Posted June 8, 2018 Sorry guys but that microscopic level of detail is totally wasted on my eyes and if you bury that level of detail behind nacelles, even more so. Each to their own. Stuart Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fjaweijfopi4j48 Posted June 8, 2018 Author Share Posted June 8, 2018 3 minutes ago, Roger Holden said: They are high-end products produced by a perfectionist, for perfectionists. They are not for average modellers and should not be promoted as suitable for such. I suspect most would throw them away in disgust before successfully completing one. I've built half a dozen now and have always evolved my own way to assemble them, deviating somewhat from the suggested method of assembly which didn't work for me. But like you, I usually end up losing or breaking a few of the parts. Personally, the ancillaries on the back of the engines are a waste as I never build dioramas, etc, which would render them exposed. My other gripe is that the lower portion of the cylinder should be a square, fitting into a square recess as it would greatly improve the alignment before the glue sets. I like the spark plug/lead design myself, which is ultra-realistic, but you can't please all of the people all of the time. Overall, I love these products. I partially agree, Roger. I have built for my models three of them already of different types, but have a nice number of them stashed. I believe Eugeny could reach a much broader (and happier) customer base just by simplifying a bit as suggested. His price is absolutely competitive considering the level of quality he offers. As they are, only a selected group of modelers (in which I do not include myself since I botch a bit the builds) can take full advantage of them. Again, to group from factory the engine parts as sub-assemblies would greatly improve the experience, making them more accessible to more modelers. In any case, this is idle speculation, Eugeny will surely do what he thinks is best for him and his products. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fjaweijfopi4j48 Posted June 8, 2018 Author Share Posted June 8, 2018 2 minutes ago, Courageous said: Sorry guys but that microscopic level of detail is totally wasted on my eyes and if you bury that level of detail behind nacelles, even more so. Each to their own. Stuart Yes, the injected ones I portrayed before from the spares bin are slightly bigger and roomier. They will do. Oh the joys of modeling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Holden Posted June 8, 2018 Share Posted June 8, 2018 8 minutes ago, Moa said: Spark plug: Lead: I agree the plug and lead should have been combined as a single piece, which would have simplified assembly somewhat... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fjaweijfopi4j48 Posted June 8, 2018 Author Share Posted June 8, 2018 (edited) 8 minutes ago, Courageous said: Sorry guys but that microscopic level of detail is totally wasted on my eyes and if you bury that level of detail behind nacelles, even more so. Each to their own. Stuart Hey Stuart, but what about suffering and misery? why leave out those vital components of modeling? Edited June 8, 2018 by Moa to correct typo 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Courageous Posted June 8, 2018 Share Posted June 8, 2018 I don't think 'suffering and misery' have entered my world of modelling Mr Moa but frustration on the other hand... Looking forward to seeing the 'correct' engines all painted up. Stuart Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Holden Posted June 8, 2018 Share Posted June 8, 2018 35 minutes ago, Moa said: Radial Engines and Wheels, and Engines & Things from Canada also sell those. Oh my oh my. Anyways, let's finish this one before changing engines. Sigh.... Radial Engines and Wheels are good and were the best prior to Small Stuff, but you need to make the usual plug wires, etc (assuming you are that bothered). On the other hand, Engines & Things are best not mentioned in polite company..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fjaweijfopi4j48 Posted June 8, 2018 Author Share Posted June 8, 2018 Well, although i have use them many times, i left already aside out of politness the version of this engine by Aeroclub (although sone other engines they produced i used and likely will continue to use). And so we chose what better fits us, as individuals. We must remember that these are just model airplanes, something to enjoy. Exacting standards are perhaps (and this is of course a matter of personal choice) better demanded for and/or deployed in other areas of our lives. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fjaweijfopi4j48 Posted June 8, 2018 Author Share Posted June 8, 2018 (edited) So lack of attention caused a bit of an engine detour: The Radial Engines and Wheels: Ole venerable Aeroclub's Radial Engines and Wheels: New cowls in process: There: Presto!: Voilà: 8 hours ago, Moa said: So lack of attention caused a bit of a engine detour: At some point it seemed like a brilliant idea to build three models at the same time 😉 Edited June 9, 2018 by Moa to correct typo 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Masters Posted June 8, 2018 Share Posted June 8, 2018 25 minutes ago, Moa said: these are just model airplanes, something to enjoy. Hear hear! 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fjaweijfopi4j48 Posted June 8, 2018 Author Share Posted June 8, 2018 Bye-bye, interior!: Lack of locating devices and mold mismatches required a bit of persuasion...: 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fjaweijfopi4j48 Posted June 8, 2018 Author Share Posted June 8, 2018 2 hours ago, Roger Holden said: My other gripe is that the lower portion of the cylinder should be a square, fitting into a square recess as it would greatly improve the alignment before the glue sets. Roger, in this particular engine (may be also in others) the cylinder bases are actually keyed to fit a female recess. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Holden Posted June 8, 2018 Share Posted June 8, 2018 3 minutes ago, Moa said: Roger, in this particular engine (may be also in others) the cylinder bases are actually keyed to fit a female recess. Good; I don't have that one yet. My experience is with his earlier ones (Clerget, Le Rhone). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fjaweijfopi4j48 Posted June 9, 2018 Author Share Posted June 9, 2018 I posted this on the "Tainui" thread, but I will repeat it here, in case someone has a similar experience. In general I use Model Master enamels and acrylics, Alclad II and a number of other acrylics for details, with the occasional Humbrol splash. All these but the latter will dry from almost instantly to a few hours. Sometimes certain Humbrol colors will take about a week to dry. Is this something that happens to other modelers too? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fjaweijfopi4j48 Posted June 9, 2018 Author Share Posted June 9, 2018 And since we are at it, here some of the inaccuracies and omissions on the SH kit instructions. There are very many other details, but these are the more obvious: 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Holden Posted June 9, 2018 Share Posted June 9, 2018 9 minutes ago, Moa said: In general I use Model Master enamels and acrylics, Alclad II and a number of other acrylics for details, with the occasional Humbrol splash. All these but the latter will dry from almost instantly to a few hours. Sometimes certain Humbrol colors will take about a week to dry. Is this something that happens to other modelers too? Those I think were the Humbrol paints made when they outsourced production to China. They received a lot of complaints and production was moved back to the UK. So, recent ones are better, but still imo inferior to what they produced in 1960s-90s , when they had no equals. If you are mainly an enamel painter like me, the best paints were produced in the 1980s (Humbrol, Gloy, DBI ,Compucolour) and it's been downhill ever since. These days I use mainly Humbrol, Xtracolor and Colourcoats. Have a few acrylics (mainly Tamiya) which have to be sprayed, but not a fan. I am completely ignorant of the modern acrylic stuff (GSI, Vallejo, AK, Hataka, Lifecolour). I am mainly a brush painter (except for metallics) and leave all enamels at least 2 days before recoating. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fjaweijfopi4j48 Posted June 9, 2018 Author Share Posted June 9, 2018 38 minutes ago, Roger Holden said: Those I think were the Humbrol paints made when they outsourced production to China. Hi Roger I completely agree with you regarding the gradual deterioration through time of certain products. As a visual artist for decades, my perceptions of artists oil and acrylic colors is exactly the same. Technology may improve, but knowledge may be doesn't, or finances are placed way above quality, whichever the case. Some chemicals are surely replaced due to health of environmental demands, but that is not always the case. Brilliant, superb Citadel hexagonal paints were replaced by round, sub-standard "new ones". Regarding provenance, these are new, made in good ole England. The red, grey, ivory and blue worked so far well, but two of the greens (numbers 2 and 3) I used are frankly really bad, all used the same way, same thinner, same airbrush. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StephenCJ Posted June 9, 2018 Share Posted June 9, 2018 You both should adapt. I too like Humbrol and Model Master paints. I can get Humbrol from Lismore - 20 mins away + another 10 mins to find parking, I can only get get MM from a shop in Melbourne which I don't deal with much. I have tried Valleyo, AK Interactive, I have quite a collection of these paints. They are very soft and easily damaged with my fingernails. I have extremely strong and sharp nails, great for undoing screws, the wife hates them. Their clear coates hate me, I can't spray them at all. I have tried AK Interactive primers and should put them in the bin. So I use Tamiya and Mr Hobby which I use extremely thinned with general purpose thinners you get from the hardware store. I also thin enamels with general purpose thinners and I find these thinners work better than the propriety thinners. I have a collection of thinners from Humbrol, Valleyo, AK Interactive, Mr Color, Tamiya and Hataka. You have to use Valleyo and AK thinners with their paints, general purpose thinners bungs up the airbrush. For a primer I use Tamiya XF19. These are my experiences with paint, so this is not gospel. A lot of people swear by Vallejo. Any how just my 2 bobs worth. Stephen 1 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fjaweijfopi4j48 Posted June 9, 2018 Author Share Posted June 9, 2018 Fuselage: Wing on: Tail on: The wing/fuselage joint has quite a gap, later to be filled with Milliput. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Courageous Posted June 9, 2018 Share Posted June 9, 2018 Looking the biz Moa. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fjaweijfopi4j48 Posted June 9, 2018 Author Share Posted June 9, 2018 (edited) The gap between fuselage and wing was as said above Milliputed. In this almost 20 years the vacuum-formed canopy has yellowed: The plastic itself became brittle, and is being dealt with carefully. The windows and edges are very poorly, faintly defined: Trimming little by little the fit is somehow improved, but the canopy seems more to want to go over the edges, as in wrapping around the fuselage, than to match edge against edge: Edited June 9, 2018 by Moa to correct typo 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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