Brandy Posted June 4, 2018 Share Posted June 4, 2018 Coming on nicely. I see what you mean about the AK showing up the faults, I see lots of sanding in your future..... Ian 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBaron Posted June 4, 2018 Share Posted June 4, 2018 1 hour ago, CedB said: Like that circle. No idea what that is Tsk tsk. Somebody was careless putting their sherry glass down. That tail looks a picture of buttery goodness there now Ced. Handsomely handled. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dogsbody Posted June 4, 2018 Share Posted June 4, 2018 (edited) 7 hours ago, CedB said: As a relief from resin I've painted the engines Mr Metal Color Iron, my favourite: They'll get some buffing later (lucky things, fnaar!). The kit has separate gearboxes: … so they'll get painted (wait for it Chris) semi-gloss black - see, I do learn What about the sticky out boxes on the side though? Same? Back to the resin. Check diagram: So the kit locator needs trimming. Saw carefully to the bottom and chisel it off: Crikey, those Trumpeter chisels are SHARP! One down: The box on the gear casing part probably represents some propeller control unit. On the model, they are positioned at the bottom of the gear casing. Chris Edited June 4, 2018 by dogsbody 3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hamden Posted June 4, 2018 Share Posted June 4, 2018 Your work on the tail feathers is superb Roger 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Navy Bird Posted June 4, 2018 Share Posted June 4, 2018 10 hours ago, CedB said: When I saw Bill (Navy Bird) in London he commented that a chemist friend of his had said that resin is only toxic in its liquid state and the particles were, like most particles, merely irritants if inhaled. I also said that I wasn't sure if I believed him. That said, I rarely use a Defcon respirator and heart/lung machine when working with resin, just one of those simple things the doctors and nurses wear. Of course I use a lot of water to minimise the resin dust getting in the air too. I think it's OK - heck, I've only had cancer twice. Cheers, Bill 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CedB Posted June 4, 2018 Author Share Posted June 4, 2018 5 hours ago, limeypilot said: Coming on nicely. I see what you mean about the AK showing up the faults, I see lots of sanding in your future..... Ian Thanks Ian - or should it be Madame Lenormand... don't forget your crystal balls (fnaar!) 4 hours ago, TheBaron said: Tsk tsk. Somebody was careless putting their sherry glass down. That tail looks a picture of buttery goodness there now Ced. Handsomely handled. Thanks Tony Wasn't me, I always use a coaster. I'm a good boy I am 4 hours ago, dogsbody said: The box on the gear casing part probably represents some propeller control unit. On the model, they are positioned at the bottom of the gear casing. [snip photos] Chris Thanks Chris, I knew you'd come up with the goods 4 hours ago, Hamden said: Your work on the tail feathers is superb Roger Thanks Roger, very kind 2 hours ago, Navy Bird said: I also said that I wasn't sure if I believed him. That said, I rarely use a Defcon respirator and heart/lung machine when working with resin, just one of those simple things the doctors and nurses wear. Of course I use a lot of water to minimise the resin dust getting in the air too. I think it's OK - heck, I've only had cancer twice. Cheers, Bill Thanks Bill The things Doctors and Nurses wear? Fishnets? A bit of time before sleep. I have had one glass of wine. Nice it was. To what use can I put this 'Dutch Courage'? I know, I'll get rid of the windows on the canopy: Luckily they're raised so I can Micro-mesh them off. See? What do you mean scratches? Courage mon brave, the tools are to hand: When doing this I always remind myself that I'm polishing, not sanding, so it's a light touch. Down through the grades using each at 90o to the last (roughly) and soon: Note that it doesn't remove hairs - you have to do that yourself. Now I just need somewhere safe to put it. Why not here: The canopy fit is AMAZING - I had to wiggle it in with some Gator's Grip (just to be sure) but I don't think it'll need any more attention. One day all kits will be like this. I wish. Bubble fitted and we're ready for masking tomorrow: 23 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stew Dapple Posted June 5, 2018 Share Posted June 5, 2018 It takes a pair of big steel ones to be removing details like that from the clear parts Ced Nice work on the tailplanes too. Cheers, Stew 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Courageous Posted June 5, 2018 Share Posted June 5, 2018 1 hour ago, Stew Dapple said: It takes a pair of big steel ones to be removing details like that from the clear parts Ced It is something I've never had to do so far. Why would anybody deliberately put scratches on their glazing...so they can polish them out...maybe one day. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leonl Posted June 5, 2018 Share Posted June 5, 2018 Nice work on that canopy... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles87 Posted June 5, 2018 Share Posted June 5, 2018 Seconded. John 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Azgaron Posted June 5, 2018 Share Posted June 5, 2018 Nice looking canopy and nice when it fits that good! Håkan 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Navy Bird Posted June 5, 2018 Share Posted June 5, 2018 14 hours ago, CedB said: Thanks Bill The things Doctors and Nurses wear? Fishnets? Ha, you funny guy! Come get your egg roll! Nah, I mean these thingies. FDA approved, so they must be good. Or overpriced, one or the other. Cheers, Bill 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giemme Posted June 5, 2018 Share Posted June 5, 2018 Impressive job on the clear parts, Ced! Ciao 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CedB Posted June 5, 2018 Author Share Posted June 5, 2018 11 hours ago, Stew Dapple said: It takes a pair of big steel ones to be removing details like that from the clear parts Ced Nice work on the tailplanes too. Cheers, Stew Thanks Stew - Micro-mesh makes it easy to be honest, very little skills required (thanks goodness!) 9 hours ago, Courageous said: It is something I've never had to do so far. Why would anybody deliberately put scratches on their glazing...so they can polish them out...maybe one day. Thanks Stuart - you have to! Has to be done to get rid of the unwanted bits Thanks Leon, John, Håkan and Giorgio 2 hours ago, Navy Bird said: Ha, you funny guy! Come get your egg roll! Nah, I mean these thingies. FDA approved, so they must be good. Or overpriced, one or the other. Cheers, Bill Thanks Bill I suppose I'd better get some then... ten bucks for a hundred sounds pretty good. Off to UK Amazon and... 60 white ones available for £2.93. For some reason the blue ones are 5p more expensive. Free delivery, arriving end of June? Wait a minute, sold by 'maryy call me'? AVOID! Must be one of those Oriental honey traps! 6 (yes six) available for Prime delivery for £5.08! Yikes Eventually went for these - 50 for £6.99 from a UK seller Better safe than solly! 1 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CedB Posted June 5, 2018 Author Share Posted June 5, 2018 Some progress today and lots of frustration. Firstly I started applying the masks, then realised they don't actually fit that well: As I need to add another frame with bare Metal Foil I may as well cover the whole lot and sort it all later: I'm keen to get the primer on to see what the surface is like so I stuck the wings on: What seams? Nice. Sadly the gear doors aren't going to be easy. They fit really well (after the 'hinges' are removed): BUT this isn't a Mk VI. No bulges and only partial doors so surgery is required. The bumps were sawn off: Oh rats, holes. AND what's this: The u/c won't fit in the well, it's too wide. What about just with the wheel? Grrrr. Fill in the holes left under the bumps? I thought that Humbrol (or any filler) would get pushed through while sanding so I cut some spare plastic off the sprue, but then realised the inside of the door was curved so just went ahead and stuck some filler in the holes: We're out tonight so that will get a good chance to dry. I bet it pushes out. 13 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Azgaron Posted June 5, 2018 Share Posted June 5, 2018 Nice work Ced! It would have been good if they've done options for gears, both up and down. Håkan 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spookytooth Posted June 5, 2018 Share Posted June 5, 2018 Great job on the windows on the canopy Ced. Very swish. As for the U/C doors.. Bummer man , a pita. Looking good so far mate. Simon. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomprobert Posted June 5, 2018 Share Posted June 5, 2018 Glue some thin plastic card on the inside of the doors beneath the removed humps. Thin card will conform nicely to the shape of the doors, and then put your filler over the top. Hey presto - filler that won’t fall in! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Courageous Posted June 5, 2018 Share Posted June 5, 2018 Looks like you'll be doing a bit of surgery to get those doors to fit around those wheels. You can do it, you're a true modeler. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigbadbadge Posted June 5, 2018 Share Posted June 5, 2018 Crikey Ced you are working very quick on this. Great work so far fella. All the best Chris 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Head in the clouds. Posted June 6, 2018 Share Posted June 6, 2018 Just picked up on this fascinating build, a prototype Beaufighter...excellent, your work thus thus far is superb. If I may poke my nose in at this late stage , if you have any fine modelling gauze or PE grill, that will conform to the u/c door internal shape once glued in with CA and it will give the filler something to key too. Keep up the good work. Gary 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CedB Posted June 6, 2018 Author Share Posted June 6, 2018 10 hours ago, Azgaron said: Nice work Ced! It would have been good if they've done options for gears, both up and down. Håkan Thanks Håkan I agree wheels up options would be great, but as far as I know only Airfix do this. It's a continuing problem for me 10 hours ago, Spookytooth said: Great job on the windows on the canopy Ced. Very swish. As for the U/C doors.. Bummer man , a pita. Looking good so far mate. Simon. Thanks Simon The holes filled and sanded fine (phew) - see below. 10 hours ago, tomprobert said: Glue some thin plastic card on the inside of the doors beneath the removed humps. Thin card will conform nicely to the shape of the doors, and then put your filler over the top. Hey presto - filler that won’t fall in! Thanks Tom - good idea 10 hours ago, Courageous said: Looks like you'll be doing a bit of surgery to get those doors to fit around those wheels. You can do it, you're a true modeler. Thanks Stuart - very kind of you to say so 9 hours ago, bigbadbadge said: Crikey Ced you are working very quick on this. Great work so far fella. All the best Chris Thanks Chris 28 minutes ago, Head in the clouds. said: Just picked up on this fascinating build, a prototype Beaufighter...excellent, your work thus thus far is superb. If I may poke my nose in at this late stage , if you have any fine modelling gauze or PE grill, that will conform to the u/c door internal shape once glued in with CA and it will give the filler something to key too. Keep up the good work. Gary Thanks Gary - great tip, stored for future use The Humbrol filler sanded well and gripped OK: Just need to (gulp) cut out the backs of the doors and get the wheels to fit: 13 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBaron Posted June 6, 2018 Share Posted June 6, 2018 Nice surge of surgery on the undercarriagery Ced. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perdu Posted June 6, 2018 Share Posted June 6, 2018 re:skinny thin bulges in doors Ced I recall talk, idle talk no doubt, of a Dremel tool in your armoury... If it existed you could locate one of those ball shaped routing, carving, golloppingoutstuff things to gollop out gently at first the ' meat in the too thick bulges This, with skill and gentle application might give you exactly what you need Or maybe use the kit doors to pull mould some thin, to scale looking doors oh beggar it, I'm supposed to be observing not interfering Wassamatterwivme? 😕 2 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CedB Posted June 6, 2018 Author Share Posted June 6, 2018 Thanks Tony Bill I always enjoy your posts so please do feel free (fnaar!) Dremel is a good idea except I tend to go a bit 'chain saw massacre' with power tools... Aha, I have discovered a Baronial source of GIFs at giphy.com... Mesmerising eh? Anyhoos, I think I've got one side of the wheels up as a dry fit so I thought I'd share my thoughts (don't worry, just the modelling ones) with you... I see no reason not to share the pain. Look at this: Glue it! Glue it! No, I must resist, especially as I'll probably glue the doors to the nacelles which is not approved. But wait, what light frame through yonder window door backs breaks? 'Tis a sign! (Must stop there, I'm Bard) Chop down the line and shape into the curvy bit? Thanks Dexter. Out with the small files and, sometime later, we have this: Some 'tak on a wheel to assess the largeness and 'about that much' Dextered off the bottom: Crikey, this plastic's hard. I should also be using an old cutting mat for this stuff. Too late now The wheel needs to sit 'under the slipstream' of the doors: Too much by Ced Bufton, on Flickr Oops. Not to worry, I'll sit it on a bed of Humbrol filler and push down to suit later. Some time later, we have this: Which is acceptable I think. Now I have to do the other side. Groan... 13 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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