AK interactive metal paints

[proplineruk]

Hi all this is a general inquiry about AK interactive metal paints , I used there Polished Aluminium paint  on a Minicraft B377 that I have built, the first bottle I used worked well and dried in a bout 1 hour max , the second bottle I used took 3 days to dry ! I contacted AK but as yet have not replied,also the black base coat they make takes lots of coats to cover , Is this just me or has any one else had similar problems with AK paints.

While on subject of matalic paints,what have you found to be the best make to use and ease of application ?

[redcap]

I can't comment on the bottled stuff for airbrushing, but personally I found their "True Metal" range of buffable pastes to be awful. No matter how I applied it or on whatever surface inc. with/without primer, gloss base etc. it simply smeared all over the place and every time you touched it, it left residue on your fingers. Their copper was so translucent it hardly even tinted the base.

 

Others of course may well have a different and more positive experience?

 

Gary

[Skodadriver]

I've never used the True Metal range (from Redcap's description it sounds rather like Rub 'n' Buff) but I have extensive experience of airbrushing AK Interactive Xtreme Metal which has been my first choice metallic finish for a few years now.  Personally I find it an excellent product and much easier to use than Alclad.

 

I've never had any problems with drying times although I prefer to avoid any serious handling for at least 24 hours.  I once tried it over a black base but that made the standard aluminium turn out a sort of pewter colour which, at least to my eyes, looked unrealistic.  Ever since then I've applied it over a base coat of Tamiya TS-17 polished to a glass-like shine using Micromesh.  

 

There are several video reviews and instructional videos on YouTube which you might find helpful.  

 

Dave G

[Turbofan]

Hi,

I've never used AK Interactive paints so I can't compare anything else or comment on your experiences but I like to use Mr Metal Color lacquer paints. They need a smooth base like most other metallic paints but go on beautifully and after they have dried, which is quickly by the way, can be buffed to a nice shine. I tend to use 211 Chrome Silver and 218 Aluminium for my nmf's.

Hope this helps.

Cheers,

Ian

Edited May 22, 2018 by Turbofan

[proplineruk]

 

Hi Turbofan you say you use Mr metal lacquer paints and get great results , as I have not tried these what do you thin them with and at what pressure also what type of paint do you recommend for the base coat enamel or acrylic ?

thanks all for the feedback, and I did see the Youtube videos on the AK paints , but every video you see on new products gives glowing results, as they are used in ideal  conditions with perfect equipment, and by guys who do it for a living.

i

[Skodadriver]

On 5/24/2018 at 9:01 PM, proplineruk said:

 

Hi Turbofan you say you use Mr metal lacquer paints and get great results , as I have not tried these what do you thin them with and at what pressure also what type of paint do you recommend for the base coat enamel or acrylic ?

thanks all for the feedback, and I did see the Youtube videos on the AK paints , but every video you see on new products gives glowing results, as they are used in ideal  conditions with perfect equipment, and by guys who do it for a living.

i

It's a good idea to try different products until you find one that suits you.  Very many modellers used to swear by Alclad but I just couldn't get on with it at all.  Another possibility you might consider is the aerosol version of Humbrol Metalcote.  I've read good things about it but I've never tried it.

 

As far as AK Interactive goes, I can assure you I don't make models for a living.  I spray in my garage using a Paasche VL which is a big beast of an airbrush and a compressor whose pressure I couldn't tell you if my life depended on it.  Despite that I still get results that are streets ahead of anything I could have achieved with Alclad.

[Turbofan]

2 hours ago, proplineruk said:

 

Hi Turbofan you say you use Mr metal lacquer paints and get great results , as I have not tried these what do you thin them with and at what pressure also what type of paint do you recommend for the base coat enamel or acrylic ?

thanks all for the feedback, and I did see the Youtube videos on the AK paints , but every video you see on new products gives glowing results, as they are used in ideal  conditions with perfect equipment, and by guys who do it for a living.

i

I thin with cellulose thinners from Wilko but it's not really necessary with a new jar as they're already really thin. Like Dave I'm not very scientific with my spraying but I think my compressor is normally set about 20psi. As for base coat I normally use Halfords Gloss Black but as I said with all these different metallic paints the smoothness of the base layer is the key. 

What I like most about the Mr Metal Color paints is that once they have dried you can polish them up to a nice shine and they can look like real metal. I use ordinary kitchen tissue. Mr Metal Color can be bought from ebay for £4-5. 

Cheers,

Ian

[proplineruk]

Hi Guys thanks for all your input, its good to hear what other modelers use for NMF and the results they get, I once many moons ago (40 od years)did a Revell DC-7C in kitchen foil great results but boy did take time and patience to do , for brush painting  metallic I have found Vallejo acrylic Metal Color airbrush colors great but only brush application , tried airbrushing it but as with AK fragile finish and poor coverage .   

[Ratch]

I recently bought AK456 True Metal Dark Aluminium, AK479 Xtreme Metal Aluminium and AK480 Xtreme Metal Dark Aluminium to try and have been very impressed. I prime with Vallejo Acrylic 74660 Gloss Black Polyurethane Surface Primer and I don't thin the Xtreme Metals. I have only painted small areas with the True Metal. Results have been good for me.

[bmwh548]

Love the AK and MRP metallics, Gunze/Mr Hobby is also really nice, but I avoid using them on areas that could get touching (the metallic flakes get on your fingers always and there's the risk of smearing the entire model before you realize it). MRP is dry before I finish cleaning the airbrush, AK takes longer so I usually let it harden over night.

[simonj]

Hi Ratch - what thinner and ratio, pressure etc do you use for the gloss 73.660 primer??

I am having a real problem with trying to get mine to spray well

[Ratch]

I don't thin Vallejo Acrylic 74660 Gloss Black Polyurethane Surface Primer, I use it straight from the bottle into the airbrush at as low pressure as possible 😉