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dustcollector

Pocher Alfa Noob Restoration

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I was going to mention the warm water method CC has but, I didn't want you to use it to put the tires back on. You run the risk of water or moisture getting trapped inside the tires and could cause rust over time. The plating on the Pocher kits is not great in the best of circumstances and best not to temp fate by introducing water into the equation. Using it to remove tires is fine but, not so much the other way around.

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2 hours ago, CrazyCrank said:

If I can give you another advice / method to make the tires malleable: put the wheel in a cup filled with water, and put the cup in your microwave oven during 30 to 45 seconds...

You'll get the same result than with Larchiefeng's method, but without any risk of burning your tires.

But caution, you could burn your fingers with hot water, so you'll have to use a potholder when handling the tires 😉

Nooo! Don't put metal in the microwave!

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11 minutes ago, Jo NZ said:

Nooo! Don't put metal in the microwave!

 

 

 

Sorry, hadn't seen that he couldn't get off the tires of the wheels.

Obviously, don't put metal in the microwave !!!

But this method can be used to put the tires back on the wheels at the last step of mounting 😉 Of course, you must wait a perfect drying before that 🙄

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Posted (edited)

I am late to this discussion and it may be too late to make suggestions.  Nevertheless...

 

You can remove the tires, with heat, without touching and potentially damaging the center hub or spokes.

 

Instead of just pushing the center hub through, remove the bottom lock nut and remove the hub, one component at a time, leaving the spokes in place.

 

The wheels I have disassembled had spokes and nipples glued to the rims.  If there is glue, particularly CA, apply acetone with a small brush to soften it and push spokes/nipples out from the side of the plastic rings without numbers.  Remove CA from spokes and nipples by soaking in acetone.

 

Finally, when building the wheels again, grind/sand the inner circumference of the plastic rings so they are flush with the metal rings.  This simple modification results in a much more realistic wheel.  I learned this from JoNZ.  Both Jo's explanation and the process are shown in my Pocher Spyder thread. 

 

Edited by Endeavor

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Posted (edited)

Hey Endeavor! Its a slow build there is no chance being late for anything.  Luckily there is no glue involved with the wheels, so when I m not breaking screws they come quite easily apart. I will go over the rings and make sure they sit as flush as possible before assembling the wheel again. Have to sort the spokes first. Thanks!

 

Edited by dustcollector

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42461709832_91a4a8f683_b.jpg

So how many days left? Ha!

 

Had to take a break for the wheels, pretty tiersome. Felt the urge make some progress i.e. to put paint on something, so I started woriking on the engine. Screwpost were cracked and bent so I decided to cut and strengthen the post with styrene tubes. The fillament takes time to settle so I will drill new holes at  a later point. I think this fix will work.

 

28640098828_ffe28aa5fd_b.jpg

 

Next up were the cylinder head with nasty sparks. Instead og trying to fix the plugs I decided to drill the holes out from the bottom. Have to make plugs anyway and this will make attachment easier. And ofcourse, theres now holes from sparks to pistons so the chance of this engine running is not so small after all. Haha.

 

42461709602_34b0c1f009_b.jpg

 

More filing, cleaning and prepping of parts. There are flash, mould marks and ofcoruse nothing is straight. Just to make everything line up is no small task. The cyling block is straight, the head is warpt only good on one side at a time. A litte more filing an fitting and it will work. I hope.

 

41611242505_dca7b8c02b_b.jpg

 

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Theres also ajusting the waterpumt, a bit up, the kompressor(?), 2 mm left maybe 1mm up, attach the two manifold pieces together. 

And then I can dive into small detail like cables, nuts, fittings and the thin thing that goes between metal parts in an engine to prevent leaks........forgot the word. 

Anyway great fun! 

 

41611242625_7cbe90aa72_b.jpg

 

The «paintscheme» is not final, Im testing different paints, I want an magnesium engine color but its difficult to find the right one. The one thats on in the picture is some sort of gunmetal gray, quite chromy, but the effect wears away with the handling of the piece. Could lead to a nice patina. The auxilary stuff like the waterpump, compressor, manifold I will back with gloss black and silver or alu on top. Carburetur will be black I think.What do you think?

 

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Anyways althoug there are som tiresome parts I am enjoying this build. Thanks for looking

 

Terje

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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That's a lot of spokes!!

On ‎5‎/‎30‎/‎2018 at 8:48 AM, dustcollector said:

! Its a slow build there is no chance being late for anything.

All my builds are slow....there's no need to rush, I enjoy the process. 

Great work!

 

 

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Gaskets? Ah yes, the dreaded cylinder head warp! I think that I mentioned that and, what I did was just put a piece of somewhat aggressive sandpaper on a flat surface and sanded until it was flat. I had more than one available so, I was fortunate and was able to get the least warped head flat without taking too much off. I've seen some that were pretty bad. I hope that yours isn't too bad.

Just an FYI, MMC sells a nice set of cast spark plugs for $20.

Good luck with the wheels!

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Posted (edited)

Gaskets thanks, larchiefeng!

 

My head is not that bad, I think. Im trying for the intake and exhaust manifolds sit tight and straight while the head rests gently on the mototblock. Have been filing the small knobs so they fit into the cylinderhead. But you are right. More flat sanding on the head is required.

 

MMC sells lots of nice stuff, Ihave recently made an order for some ”ahem” essensial parts. Not much but hopefully will make a difference. Have a feeling its not the last order. Will try with my  skills make the parts I need. If thats not good enough I guess I will have to buy what I need. 

 

Edited by dustcollector

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Just a quick question. The mesh is glued to the carburetor and its a bit damaged. So I want ro remove it to further clean and detail the carburetor. But before ruining, I dont think I will be able to remove the mesh without destroying it, I want to ask you guys how hard it is to make a new mesh? I think I have the right mesh material but have to form it into a half sphere kind of shape...

41808227594_67b7582ea9_b.jpg

 

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There may be some useful reference photos here: https://www.bonhams.com/auctions/24876/lot/352/?category=list&length=10&page=24

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Hello all! 

Summer is happening. Not much building gong on for my part. Much of the time on the workbench has been spent prepping parts. Some progress has been made but a lot more to do. Here are some pictures.

 

41954136161_aac76ab360_b.jpg

 

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42121971751_6c30806551_b.jpg

 

monza_2111046_body_1

 

monza_2111046_body

 

And thats about it really. Thanks for looking. Comments and suggestions are very much welcome. 

 

Terje

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