Sectioned and Channeled Pocher Alfa Spyder

[Endeavor]

Pouln -  Thanks for the kind words.

 

I began work on the engine and the steering box so that I can finalize the dimensions, shapes, and positions of the firewall, dashboard, cockpit floor, body, radiator shell, and fenders.

 

I'm still deciding how much detail to include on the engine and steering box.  I want to get back to the body and fenders, as that is my primary focus.

[Endeavor]

I fixed one more inexplicable Pocher error.  

 

Like the camshafts, the 8C 2300's blower is driven from the center of the engine. The housing for the blower drive protrudes from the right side of the engine.  Although Pocher got the position and shape of the blower drive right, the drive does not protrude far enough and so does not mate properly with the blower.

 

In the photograph below, you can see that the plate that connects the blower to the drive protrudes a bit more than 2mm outward of the drive.

 

 

 

I made a vertical cut through the blower drive so that a styrene piece, about 2.25mm wide, could be inserted to extend the drive outward.

 

The photograph below shows tape applied to the drive to mark the location of the cut.

 

 

 

As always, the cut was made with a flush cutting saw.

 

 

 

Below you see the styrene piece "welded"  into position.  A bit more work with files and sandpaper will be required to finish the job.

 

 

 

The blower now mates up properly with the blower drive.

 

Notice that although Pocher got the horizontal dimension wrong, now in its proper position, the shape of the blower drive matches the blower assembly perfectly.

 

[Codger]

Staggering amount of detective work to uncover all the things that divert from reality. It speaks to the many hours of just studying the parts and comparing to references. Then you must figure out a fix.

Enough cannot be said of your skills, tenacity and obvious passion for this project.

To say nothing of your sharing and providing a road map for interested, advanced Pocher Alfa builders.

[Frogeye]

I had a go at the same modification for my Alfa but I don't think it's anywhere as neat as yours.

 

 

The other mod I tried was widening the front nose behind the front engine mounting plate. Looking at the reference photos I thought this was deeper than on the Pocher block so I packed out the engine plate. This also helped me with moving the engine back, although I didn't go for the full 10 mm, more like 7 mm

 

Not sure it applies to your build but I also made up the vent for the gearbox I saw in reference photos of the Alfa

 

 

 

 

 

Following your work with admiration.

Edited May 17, 2019 by Frogeye

[Codger]

16 minutes ago, Frogeye said:

I had a go at the same modification for my Alfa but I don't think it's anywhere as neat as yours.

 

Also wonderful work. We can never have too many obsessed Pocher builders...and yes, David's work is surgical.

[Endeavor]

25 minutes ago, Frogeye said:

I had a go at the same modification for my Alfa but I don't think it's anywhere as neat as yours.

Looks good to me.

25 minutes ago, Frogeye said:

The other mod I tried was widening the front nose behind the front engine mounting plate. Looking at the reference photos I thought this was deeper than on the Pocher block so I packed out the engine plate. This also helped me with moving the engine back, although I didn't go for the full 10 mm, more like 7 mm

Thats an interesting idea.  I opted to move the front cross member back.  It was not difficult.

 

Actually, I think 7mm is about right for the Spyder.

25 minutes ago, Frogeye said:

 

Not sure it applies to your build but I also made up the vent for the gearbox I saw in reference photos of the Alfa

 

Thanks for posting this.

 

 I'm happy that someone might actually find the thread to be useful.

[JeroenS]

11 hours ago, Endeavor said:

 I'm happy that someone might actually find the thread to be useful.

Don't worry! Although I'm not building Pocher kits I still find reading about the way you solve all those problems very educational. 

[Endeavor]

The two photographs below illustrate the type of work required to repair the Pocher kit parts.  The part shown is 14mm X 9.8mm and is mounted on the top of the transmission.  The repair was done with Milliput.  The molded in nuts should be removed, holes drilled, and replaced with brass hardware.  It's hard to know when to stop.

 

 

 

 

 

The photographs below show the work done on the parts that make up the generator and its drive.  The parts were originally to be connected to each other with glue.  I drilled holes through each of the parts and they will be connected by the 2mm brass rod.  The parts were painted gun metal, black, and silver.  Bare metal foil was applied to the strap.  Molded in hardware was removed, holes drilled, and nine 2mm bolts and nuts, three 1mm bolts, and six 1mm brass rivets were cut to size and installed. 

 

Much work with files and sand paper was required.

 

 

 

In the photographs below, the parts are assembled loosely.  They will be glued together when they are installed against the engine block.

 

 

 

 

 

Below you see the results of a poor pain job on the block.  I need to improve my masking skills. Or, alternatively, just paint the block and head silver.

 

 

 

The black paint was removed and I'll try again.

 

The generator looks better when the camera is further away.

 

 

 

 

[Pouln]

Looking great. Like the stuff you are doing!

[harveyb258]

Splendid work as always, David.

Keep it up, Sir.

 

Cheers, H

[Codger]

Yes you have contracted the mania of ever-deepening detail - to our great enjoyment. The gen looks as good as the machine-tool guys produce - but all with Pocher lumps as starting points.

Don't stop now....

[Major_Error]

Wonderful work and really excellent research.

The way you are creating your "replica" is wonderful!

 

8-)

[Endeavor]

 

I used blue painter's tape to mask the head for a second paint attempt.  Paint is Tamiya semi-gloss black from an aerosol can.

 

 

 

Below is my rather inelegant masking job on the block.  I used 3.3mm plastic tape to define the two areas and then used blue painter's tape and a plastic bag to protect the lower block.  The upper block is Tamiya semi gloss black, the lower block is Tamiya gloss aluminum, both from aerosol cans, and the access panels are Tamiya chrome silver.

 

 

Below you see some components assembled on the block.  All are attached loosely with pegs.

 

The water pipe, gaskets, and breathers are from Model Motorcars.  The starter's plastic drive was replaced with a brass rod.  The construction of the generator was described in an earlier post.

 

I'm still deciding if I will replace more molded Pocher nuts and bolts with brass hardware.

 

 

 

The spark plugs are from Model Motorcars.  The "porcelain" was painted with white enamel.

 

All parts are loosely in place.

 

 

 

The water pipes that run up from the water pump (only partially visible below) are also from Model Motorcars.

 

The blower gasket was made from 1/32" square brass rod.

 

Two acorn nuts and the four bolts that attach the manifold to the blower have not yet been installed.

 

I will replace some of the Pocher molded details shown here with brass.

 

[Pouln]

Good progress. Detailing takes a lot of time, but well worth it.

you are creating a great example.