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Messerschmitt Me 209 H (or is it the Bf 109 V-55?)


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Thank you, gentlemen, for you kind words.

 

The build has now progressed to the weathering stage. First up is the oil wash. I mix medium grey and burnt umber for a dirty base then selectively add white or black to lighten or darken it. The application is pure slop. I use a thick mix of the oils and slather it on panel lines and rivet rows. This may hurt your eyes:

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Leave it set up for at least 20 minutes, which is about the time it takes to finish half of the fuselage or a wing. Then grab your 500 count box of Q-tips. You'll need most of them. Wipe off the paint either in the direction of airflow (wings) or downward (fuselage). I really wanted to get a well-used dirty look to this model, similar to a Ta 152 prototype that appears in Hitchcock's book on that subject. The painted model didn't give that effect, but after the application of oil grime, it is much closer to what I had envisioned. I didn't have much time this evening, so only the upper surfaces got the treatment.
One comment. The rivets came out much more subtly than I expected. Perhaps because I have applied a number of gloss coats, but I like the effect. It seems you never know how certain things will come out until you do them...

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Another beauty of oil washes is that you can continue to adjust them for at least a day, so mistakes aren't really permanent until the model is sealed with another gloss coat.

 

Again, thanks for looking and for your comments.

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Thank you, gentlemen.

 

A bit more progress to report. I've applied the flat coat, in this case Gunze 182, which does even more to harmonize the paint, markings and weathering.

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I've also begun working on some of the accessories. For the landing gear the best solution seemed to be lengthening the kit part with Plastruct rod.


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First up was adding Bare Metal foil for the wider sections. Then .04mm Albion alloys tube was glued on for brake line guides. From practice I've learned the best way to do this it to apply some Tamiya liquid glue to the gear to give a sticky surface. Then the tube sections were stuck in place and and when dry, a tiny drop of superglue is placed on both sides using a bit of very thin stretched sprue. Sprue seems to hold the glue better than wire. This must be done carefully to avoid filling in the tube. Finally, a length of Detail Master coated wire, with the loop pre-formed, was threaded through the tubes. Sounds easy, doesn't it. Well the number of failures and 
re-dos tell me it really isn't.

Here's one gear after its initial coat of RLM 76.


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Also in the works are the gear doors. These are the inner doors, made from .010" and .005" plastic sheet.


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As always, thanks for following and your compliments.

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I'm currently building a Bf-109H in 1/32nd (Revell/AlleyCat), I love their massive wing span.... this is great, I don't think I've ever seen one before though, and definitely not modelled! NICE work!!

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Thanks, Guys!

 

Just a bit of progress to report. The gear has been weathered with oil paints and the oleos done by applying Uschi Van der Rosten chrome powder with an artist's stump the has been cut to a chisel shape. This is a very efficient way of representing this section; no masking and it is done in a few minutes. Also, it seems to represent metal more effectively than paint of foils. Apologies for the somewhat out of focus photo. I'll try for a better one.


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I've added the exhaust stains, which can be nerve wracking since you don't want to overdo it. As a result I've understated them. She also got to try on the finished prop, which makes her look seriously more lethal. After the stains have completely dried (this takes some time since they are at least 9/1 mix of thinner/paint), I'll use some Vallejo flat coat to dull them down. This is the flattest flat on earth and perfect for the job. 

Engineers occasionally marked the Werk Nummer on the prop or spinner with chalk. I duplicated this with a light grey water color pencil. At the moment only one prop blade and the spinner have been "fixed" with clear flat. The additional umber on the other blade seems redundant and will be removed with a wet Q-tip. 


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More soon.

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It's time to start taking the landing gear seriously. I tried taking precise measurements of the drawings using a digital caliper but that didn't seem to be the complete answer. So I went ultra high tech...

 

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...1/16 " plastic rod, some folded double stick tape and kit wheels.

This is the same diameter rod as my landing gear extensions and I had already glued some rings of the telescoping sized tubing on the roof of the wheel well. They stuck enough temporarily to give me an idea of how things would line up.


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Another thing to check was the prop clearance.


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OK, that looks about right, but the final matter was making sure it fit in the wheel well, and it does. So now I have the measurement. But considering how easy it will be to knock these things off, I decided to delay attaching the gear until many other small details are added. Next will be the remaining cockpit details, such as shoulder harnesses, and the framework that holds the cockpit retaining cord.

A couple more status shots. The canopy mask has been removed and exhausts added.


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Getting there. Thanks for looking.

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Next up are some of the very fiddly details. This is the canopy retaining cord frame. It was made from .005" card and stretched sprue.


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Here it has been snipped off and white glued to the cockpit interior. There was a bit of oil paint dry brushing going on as well.


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Gear on! This was a challenge (isn't it always?). I made a simple jig to align the gear side angle, but the forward rake was done by sighting from above. When you can see both of the axles as you rotate the model forward when viewing from above, you've got it.

After letting the liquid glue set up overnight, I fixed the gear with thin superglue this morning.


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She's on her own three legs now.

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As you approach the end game there always seems to be more and more fiddly bits to make. Here are the retraction links in the making, in this case telescoping Albion Alloys brass tube and nichrome wire. For the attachment points I took some Evergreen half-round stock and stretched it like any other sprue over a candle flame. I made quite a few different sizes to see what will eventually fit.

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I'm amazed how much better this plane looks with inward retracting landing gear than the Bf 109 H that I built a few years back.


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Shaun, the 109 Z is definitely on the to-do list. I have done some tinkering with the A-model kit and decided that it would only contribute the wing, parts of the right fuselage and horizontal stab. Two Fine Molds kits will provide the rest.

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She's getting very close now. I've done the usual trick with the canopy (in this case a Rob Taurus vac). My angled sheet plastic brace is held in place with tape, making a cradle for the canopy. Actually, the tape is fashioned more like a Band-Aid, with a middle section doubled over to prevent it from sticking to the plane. When the brace is inserted, it can then be moved up or down to give the proper angle. The canopy frames are painted clear decal film. Also added are riveted strips along the base and a locking lever.

 

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In these photos you can see the other progress made. The retraction pistons have been added to the main gear and inner gear doors and the main LG covers are in place. There has been drama and smooth sailing in alternating doses, but as I mentioned, she's getting close.


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Finished! Finally!! Have to admit that I was getting a bit twitchy toward the end on this one. It was a long and intense road. I think I'll cool off with a few OOBs next. 

Here of some photos of the completed bird. I'll post more in the Ready for Inspection section.


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And finally, a comparison with a "normal" 109.


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Again, thanks to everyone for you encouragement along the way. It is greatly appreciated.

 

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