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Auto acrylic spray


mikey builder

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Hi. I've been looking for a clear gloss paint, either to airbrush, or spray cans.

I'm staggered at the prices for small rattle can/aerosols from Tamiya and other dedicated model suppliers, and after a lifetime of spraying motorbike pars with rattle cans, wonder if its ok on model plastics? 🤔 

I use 'Hycote Double Acrylic' concentrated paint most of the time, says suitable for use on Rigid plastics,  metal and ceramics, and cellulose (although I've had it react when applied over cellulose rattle can base, up to a month after spraying!), hence my concerns on compatibility 

Anyone else tried these 'auto' products ?

Its acrylic and extremely flammable, much like Tamiya and Humbrol. I bought 2 cans of Humbrol acrylic paint for my Bentley Blower and the cans are 100% identical to Hycote, down to the codes and fire labels etc. Hycote is made about 3 miles from me, but they won't tell me who else they package paint for! 

Any thoughts or suggestions welcome! 😂 

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Hello @mikey builder ... Ive heard its possible using a primer base. I believe the solvents in the paint are to harsh for straight plastic. They were designed for metals not plastic. Though you might have a better angle with Synthetic motorcycle body panels. Try googling car builds using real auto paint. That or ask in the automotive section here. 

 

Dennis

Edited by Corsairfoxfouruncle
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Car acrylic can be used on plastic models but you have to be very careful.

You need to mist the coats on; a thin coat at a time allowing the carrier to evaporate off in between coats. Build up the colour that way.

When using clear coats even more care is needed as you cannot really see how much you've put on thus when to stop to allow the carrier to flash off

With colour coats it might take three passes to get a good colour coverage, with clear coats, especially gloss it might take 4 or even 5 coats to get a good gloss.

 

Even with dedicated model acrylics you need to let the carrier flash off between coats otherwise you'll get orange peel. I did a Red Arrows Gnat with Humbrol Red in a can; put it on too heavy and got orange peel all over

 

Its the paint carrier you need to be wary of. Even a cellulose paint can be sprayed on, if you put it on very lightly and allow for the carrier to flash off

 

These were sprayed with a car spray can silver matched for BMW;

Took three coats, each coat slightly heavier than the last, then an acrylic matt varnish after decals

Douglas%20RB-66%2C%2008s-M.jpg

 

Ilyushin%20Il-28%2C%2006s-M.jpg

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Just an FYI, some auto acrylics can have a violent reaction to some enamels and even other acrylics. I had to repaint an entire Mustang  (not a model, a real car) because of a reaction between the acrylic formulas. 

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I've not used car paints as a top coat, but I prime all of my models with Halfords Grey Primer. It works a treat. I would think that if you used the primer first, the other car paints should be fine. But to be safe, try it on scrap first.

 

John.

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I use Halfords rattle cans all the time if I can get a colour match. The primers are faultless, and the colour coats are excellent. I have used Hycote, but I find it a bit thin for my liking.

If you hunt around in this section, you will find a colour conversion chart for auto paints. Halfords Appliance White is the accepted medium for airliners or anything that requires white to be sprayed over areas.

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Thanks everyone!

Plenty to think about now, I think I'll try the Hycote clear gloss over airbrushed Tamiya paint, on some scrap parts, and see what happens over the next few weeks. 

I will continue trying Tamiya clear gloss 10ml in my airbrush, but with genuine Tamiya thinners, so far I've just ended up with bloomed/matt finish

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For airbrushing a clear gloss, try Vallejo if you can get it. Its a water based acrylic which is hardly likely to react with anything. Tamiya acrylic is alcohol based and alcohol will and does dissolve most acrylic paints and can react with some enamels as well

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