Hi. Need advice re' weathering 1/48 bombs.

[Ham Hands]

Hello and thank you for clicking.

 

I am building in 1/48 scale for the first time in 20 years (6 builds at once). I want my bombs to resemble this:

 

 

Mine currently look like this:

 

 

I am unsure what to do.

 

Any help appreciated.

 

I will be away from my pc for several hours. I will check in later.

 

Thank you. 

Edited May 10, 2018 by Ham Hands

[Corsairfoxfouruncle]

Hmmm possibly a wash with grey or white as the base to fade the colors out like the photo ?

Edited May 9, 2018 by Corsairfoxfouruncle

[Ham Hands]

5 minutes ago, Corsairfoxfouruncle said:

Hmmm possibly a wash with grey or white as the base to fade yhe colors out like the photo ?

Thank you very much. I will leave a quick wash on them now before I leave home. I will use Flory models 'Light".

 

Many thanks. 

[Ham Hands]

Hello again.

 

I have done a little on my bombs. It is dark here so this is a lit shot. (Lit poorly) 

 

There is a bit of lint on the prop, since removed. See what you think and feel free to offer suggestions. Here is a 500 pounder.

 

Thanks for looking.

 

Edited May 9, 2018 by Ham Hands

[thorfinn]

My suggestion would be an overall light dry-brushing of one or two shades of the lightened base-color.

 

It's what I do to most surfaces anyway, as a matter-of-course, for what I call 'toning'---breaking up the monochrome paint color, to resemble the subtle variances that the eye sees through ordinary light and atmospheric effects in 'real scale'---but can be effectively 'ramped-up' (with a more determined application, and the use of slightly-differing color-tones) to simulate wear, chipping, and so on. The dry-brushing highlights the almost invisible differences in surface texture on the model part, and can convey a surprisingly realistic effect...even when the color variation is so subtle a viewer might not realize anything has been 'added.'

 

Plus...it's dead-easy! Oils or enamels tend to be easier to control than acrylics...because of the extended drying time...and a stiff-bristled brush (of whatever size) tends to offer more subtle control, thanks to the 'spring' in the bristles. Practice it on a spare part if you've never tried it before. You'll likely be amazed.

 

Used in concert with washes---and the above shot looks really good, after Dennis's advice---you can produce some really eye-catching effects.

 

Cheers

Edited May 9, 2018 by thorfinn

[huvut76g7gbbui7]

Only thing I can add to above is perhaps matt down a bit.There's no shine on the original photo. Otherwise looking good.

[Ham Hands]

Thank you guys.

 

Indeed I will do as advised in the daylight.

 

I plan to rub the paint down a bit and will be sure to have all bombs fully matt when complete.

 

Thanks very much.

[Ham Hands]

I am getting close. I must remember these will be slung under an F9F panther wing and won't be obvious.

 

I have dry brushed using a mix of silver, white, olive green, yellow ochre and raw umber. I will just show one. They all look similar.

 

Any thoughts, criticism, advice will be appreciated.

 

Many thanks.

 

 

[Corsairfoxfouruncle]

Well it looks pretty good to my old Mark 1 👀

[thorfinn]

Think you've matched your top (reference) photo pretty well. Nice work!

[Ham Hands]

Thank you very much. Special thanks for the advice given above. It inspired me further and is much appreciated.

[Finn]

Looking good, one thing to note, the bomb bodies were normally stored outdoors so were subject to weathering, even Navy bombs were stored at a depot outside before being sent to a ship. Tail sections were for the most part were better protected from the elements by being kept indoors or n containers so the paint on them looked more fresh.

 

Jari

[Ham Hands]

5 hours ago, Finn said:

Looking good, one thing to note, the bomb bodies were normally stored outdoors so were subject to weathering, even Navy bombs were stored at a depot outside before being sent to a ship. Tail sections were for the most part were better protected from the elements by being kept indoors or n containers so the paint on them looked more fresh.

 

Jari

Hello Jari.

 

Thank you for this information. I was actually wondering how I would be able to match the small section that is secured via blutac. This information removes that task. Far easier to paint the fins. I am glad I signed in to ask my 1st question.

 

Thanks again.

[Selwyn]

One Quick question are the  bombs to be fitted to the aircraft, or sat around the aircraft in a diorama?

 

Its just if they are to be not fitted  and sat on the ground the nose fuzes should be removed, as fuzes were normally fitted after the bomb was loaded.

 

Selwyn

[junglierating]

13 minutes ago, Selwyn said:

One Quick question are the  bombs to be fitted to the aircraft, or sat around the aircraft in a diorama?

 

Its just if they are to be not fitted  and sat on the ground the nose fuzes should be removed, as fuzes were normally fitted after the bomb was loaded.

 

Selwyn

Nicely put....its a cool pic cant help but think of the faff if he dropped it.....pick it up and throw it over the side I suppose

[Selwyn]

5 hours ago, junglierating said:

 

If he dropped it to the deck he would probably just pick it up and fit it. These things were designed so  if you jettisoned one  in an in flight emergency they would not go off if they hit the ground, so a few feet down would just scratch the paintwork.  Lets face it, if the bomb was that sensitive to handling you would certainly not be fitting it to my aeroplane, or carrying it around on a flight deck!

The only issue would be if it landed on the fins and bent them. then it would be a new tail to fit, and no doubt  giving the Chief a good listening to!

 

Selwyn

[Finn]

Here is an example of how reasonably "clean" the tail section of a bomb looks compared to the bomb body:

 

 

Jari

[Julien]

15 hours ago, Selwyn said:

One Quick question are the  bombs to be fitted to the aircraft, or sat around the aircraft in a diorama?

 

Its just if they are to be not fitted  and sat on the ground the nose fuzes should be removed, as fuzes were normally fitted after the bomb was loaded.

 

Selwyn

He did say they would be under the wings of a panther, so fuses would be OK

[Ham Hands]

Hello.

 

Thanks for looking in. Yes, these will be underwing. 

 

I realized later the red mark is for lining up arming points, front and rear. (visible behind the man's head.) I could strip them and start again, but as they will be hard to see I may just leave them be. I will sit with it for a few days.

 

Thanks again.

Edited May 12, 2018 by Ham Hands

[Selwyn]

41 minutes ago, Ham Hands said:

Hello.

 

Thanks for looking in. Yes, these will be underwing. 

 

I realized later the red mark is for lining up arming points, front and rear. (visible behind the man's head.) I could strip them and start again, but as they will be hard to see I may just leave them be. I will sit with it for a few days.

 

Thanks again.

The red mark is not a red marking, its a purple marking  and its not for aligning arming points! The bomb is a HE  bomb with an incendiary component. yellow band =HE Purple band = Incendiary .

 

Selwyn

[Ham Hands]

1 hour ago, Selwyn said:

The red mark is not a red marking, its a purple marking  and its not for aligning arming points! The bomb is a HE  bomb with an incendiary component. yellow band =HE Purple band = Incendiary .

 

Selwyn

Oh thank you very much!

[Ham Hands]

Now having sprayed the tail fin area.