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GLUE!


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Simple question that I should know the answer to; can Tamiya Extra Thin stick styrene to acrylic? And if it can't, what can I use to stick a clear acrylic rod into a standard styrene plastic kit? HELP please!! TIA.

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Best bet is a form of CA or superglue. It drys quick, hard and clear - what more do you want from a glue! My favourite brand is Loctite but that’s only because I can source it easily. I also believe that Tamiya have a “Fast Curing” extra thin cement however I have not come across this as yet.

 

Cheers.. Dave

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Dave has got it in one!

However, are you mounting the kit onto the acrylic rod?

If so, I would try a two part epoxy, slower curing BUT a lot stronger joint.

 

Paul

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Thanks gents. Actually, I'm using the rod to 'glaze' the camera housing on a PR Spit. I have 2 options; one use clear sprue, which isn't quite the correct diameter, and fill any gaps with Krystal Klear. Or, two, use acrylic rod of the correct diameter. I was under the impression CA would fog the acrylic (and I need a clear and polished end on the outside!)?

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It might be best to try this on a test piece first. I suppose it it does fog up, you can always drill it out and start again. It would appear that you will need to do some vigorous sanding in order to achieve a flush fit, so CA will be the strongest bonding agent and dries clear. You may also need some Micromesh in order to restore the clarity of the acrylic rod. Once it’s all flush and as clear as the micromesh will take it, polish the rod with a cloth and then apply a coat of clear over the top. Should work after all that effort. 

 

Cheers.. Dave

 

 

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For your purposes 5 second UV Resin Glue will do the job.

I use it for making lenses and small windows and for gap filling around canopies

I used it to make the light lenses on this Lysander's wheel spats and for the rear inspection windows

6%20sqd%20Lysander%20II%2C%2004s-M.jpg

You put some into the hole, [the lights had silver foil cups inside, the windows had clear plastic inside the fuselage] fill to slightly over fill, make sure its in the corners and right to the edge. Put on the UV light and move it over the resin for more than 5 seconds - I do 30 seconds. The resin sets hard and shiney, no need to polish. If you overfill by the right amount the resin will set with a dome to it, like a curved lens. The resin is quite thick so it doesn't flow out flat the way 'Clearfix' does. It took up the curvatures of the Lysander wheel spats quite well.

 

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