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3 minutes ago, Graeme H said:

Just catching up on the latest, this continues to impress in all areas of modelling

Hi Graeme,

Jolly decent of you to say. I hope you find something useful in here!

 

Rearguards,

Badder

 

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Hi Badder. Hope you are keeping well. More awesome progress since my last visit. Mrs PlaStix and I were just admiring how incredibly realistic your natural effects are. You're creating believable ageing and weathered walls and the roof looks great so far. Very well done.

Kind regards,

Stix

 

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2 hours ago, PlaStix said:

Hi Badder. Hope you are keeping well. More awesome progress since my last visit. Mrs PlaStix and I were just admiring how incredibly realistic your natural effects are. You're creating believable ageing and weathered walls and the roof looks great so far. Very well done.

Kind regards,

Stix

 

Hi Stix, I am keeping very well thanks for asking. For the past 2 months I've been getting my blood-sugar readings down significantly and for the first time ever I have got my average 30-day reading below 10. This is going to please my consultant massively. I don't feel even 1 percent better despite all of this, but I realise I'm going to extend my lifespan a fair bit if I can sustain these levels and I feel now I don't have to rush my dioramas. 🤪 plus an actual LOL.

 

I hope the Stix's are all well.

 

And thank you for your kind comments on my walls. I've removed the wall mentioned above and am currently setting things up for constructing and installing the upper floor joists and floorboards. I fancy the ground floor will have the diamond-shaped floor tiles I've used before.

 

Rearguards,

Badder

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With regards to the upper floor, the first job was to get the floor level right. Now, this building was based around a MiniArt kit, so the floor heights were too high for my liking. When it came to constructing the adapting the first section of the building I lowered the ceiling height by about 10mm IIRC, but still this wasn't really enough.

Never mind. I figured that I could lower the middle room floor further, and overcome the issue of the upper doorway then being a big a step up by adding a step or two.

 

Soon after deciding this I realised that actually I can keep all the upper floor levels the same and simply raise the ground floor levels. This would not only solve the problem of the high ceilings and floors in the remaining rooms, but also the problem of the long 'rear' wall having a gap running underneath it. In many of the preceding photos you may have noticed that my long rear wall is standing on little plinths. So when it comes to seating the building in a diorama, that gap will have to be filled, preferably by sinking the bottom of the wall into the ground, and effectively lowering the floor and ceiling heights.

 

Here then one of the first floor beam in place, at a height equal to that of the one in the first room, extreme right. This beam runs full length along the rear wall, through a hole in the new section of wall.  I've also highlighted the gap running under the long rear wall; one of the supporting plinths visible extreme left.

kaMLGZK.jpg?1

Note that in the first room I had the floor joists running from front-to-back of the building and the floorboards side-to-side. I did it this way because the room is not perfectly square and true and it was easier to fit the floorboards that way. In reality, this is probably the least likely configuration, requiring extremely long, and therefore weaker joists. In the rest of the rooms I will change to the more logical configuration. This should widen the 'damage' possibilities as well.

 

Next though, I will run two more beams across this room. The floor itself will once again be built 'off the model' and will only be fixed in place once all of the internals have been added and completed.

 

BTW, the white thing is one of my new blood-sugar testing strips. Made from plastic and with a metal 'circuit-board' inner, these do not have the metal backing that my old testing strips had. A shame really as they were a good source of brass. Nevertheless, they should be ideal for making the roof tiles.

 

TFL

Badder

 

 

 

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Laying out the woodwork for the floor. I CA'd the joists directly to the graph paper, keeping everything square and true. The finished floor will be used to square up the new wall. Far easier to fit the walls around the floor than the other way around!

Mn8MCjT.jpg

 

I wasn't too fussy about the spacings of the joists or the making of the joists themselves as there will be some severe aging, decay and damage to follow. How much of the floor will remain is, as yet, a mystery to me. I did fix most of the floorboards in place though. I can snap/collapse/remove them as required.

 

dnzaVo3.jpg

 

 

TFL

Badder

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...... and with some antelope brown and black washes, then a wash with plaster dust; just the first of several treatments.

BaL9RfQ.jpg

 

I have an idea as to what to do along the front of this section.

 

TFL

Badder

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Several more treatments have been applied to the floorboards.

8I6iFGh.jpg

 

2WBZ1o0.jpg

 

rvOw1lL.jpg

 

Basically, they've had a coat of gloss varnish, a dark wash, another wash with plaster dust wetted with water/antelope brown, and more washes with very dilute black ink.

 

TFL

Badder

Badder

 

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Plaster added to the inner side of the new wall. Also I added a beam for the floor, and, not visible here, I stuffed the wall cavity with plaster as well.

 

UpaR7y6.jpg

 

I hope to have this wall scraped back, painted, scraped back some more and then weathered by the end of today's play.

 

TFL

Badder

 

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Scraping back the plaster. It' a messy job, but someone has to do it, and the wife was out.

9w68OQg.jpg

 

And here's just one example of one of those 'happy accidents' that have a habit of occuring during my projects:

HclErUL.jpg 
I scraped the plaster back to a nice thin skim, and then gave it a blast with my airbrush as the sub-surface plaster was still damp and I thought I'd give it a hurry-up. Unfortunately, I was a bit clumsy and got too close: the air jet getting under the plaster and lifting it up. Never mind. It had happened before and it was nothing a bit of CA couldn't fix. The 'realistic' crack may or may not be visible after weathering.

 

The wall is dry-fitted here:

91gpF26.jpg

 

Having reached this stage I am going to give the plaster a chance to cure fully, leaving it until tomorrow pm.

 

In the meantime I'm going to deal with that yawning hole at the front.....

Expect a radical change in colour palette!

 

TFL

Badder

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The yawning hole is still a yawning hole. I was in a great deal of pain today so didn't get started until late..... and by then the plaster on the wall was properly cured, so I cracked on with that instead. And the word 'cracked' is relevant.

Unfortunately, some areas of the thinnest skim came away. The resulting effect wasn't disasterous however, and so I continued with the now usual weathering treatment; washes with inks, washes with plaster dust, scraping back and more washes.

 

First, the plaster with a base coat of Antelope Brown acrylic ink.  Hmmmm it went more red-brown again.

NS6D9tr.jpg

 

And after scraping back and subsequent treatments:

om2B3s5.jpg

 

So, with that done I'm going to get on with that hole.

 

TFL

Badder

 

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Okay, barn door type doors, made from.... yep.....

 

The coffee stirrers we're first CA'd to graph paper so as to get the width right, and to ensure 'parallelility'. I may have made that word up.

I then flipped the door over and stuck the 'Z' frame on the back, over the top of the graph paper. The paper was then given a good soaking and was pulled, scraped and rubbed off. I may or may not remove the remnants, depending on what they look like when this side is weathered.........

 

 

w933u74.jpg

 

.....because.....

 

.... on the other side I didn't remove all of the paper fully. First, I soaked it all with pale-blue acrylic ink and then used a scalpel to scrape the surface of the paper off. Then Again, with the scalpel, I opened up the joints at the bottom of the door, and exposed the wood here and there. Some areas were left completely untouched. Washes with black and green followed. Finally, a scalpel was used to scratch a few lines of wood grain.

qsMhL4v.jpg

 

hSi0Mkt.jpg

 

The blueness doesn't show up so well in the photos. However, the effects show up better than in reality.

I suspect they may fade when completely dry. I may have to accentuate them.

 

 

I will admit that these effects were the result of an experiment brought about by laziness! Soaking the paper and removing it from the rear of the door wasn't a simple or quick job, so for the 'front' of the door I thought DO I REALLY NEED TO REMOVE IT?

 

TFL

Badder

 

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11 hours ago, Sgt.Squarehead said:

Just caught up.....It's fascinating to follow your experimentation and you've achieved some truly remarkable weathering effects, some of those photos look very, very realistic.  :coolio:

Hi Sarge, and thanks.

How's things?

Yep, experimentation is the mother of.... er.... something good, or something bad. If I was on the jury, I'd be out a fair bit. At times I've made the classic mistake of going one step over  and spoiling something that was perfectly okay. I think you warned me of just that some time ago. I'm trying very hard to follow the old addage.

But once again I think some of the photos are making things look a lot better than they really are. Strange that. You'd think they'd always make things look worse. I suspect it's my 'dirty' approach to buildings - the stonework and woodwork - not caring if there's plaster dust, dirt, grease, chips, scratches, cracks, etc etc, and not minding if I have to apply yet more layers. The camera picks up on all those things, emphasising the textures, colour variations and the depth of the effects

 

At some point I will be adding lots of ivy to the walls and roofs.... I am REALLY looking forward to that, even though it's a long and tedious job,

 

Anyway, thanks again,

Rearguarsds,

Badder.

 

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Just had a very entertaining/informative afternoon catching up with the last couple of months of your amazing thread.

Wow, exceptional stuff! I particularly approve of reusing items that otherwise would have been thrown away. Much more skillful than buying something to stick on. Keep up the excellent work.

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21 hours ago, Gorby said:

Just had a very entertaining/informative afternoon catching up with the last couple of months of your amazing thread.

Wow, exceptional stuff! I particularly approve of reusing items that otherwise would have been thrown away. Much more skillful than buying something to stick on. Keep up the excellent work.

Hi Gorby and thanks,

It's not really about skill in respect of how things turn out, it's more down to the skill in finding useful 'rubbish', which costs nothing at all, and then experimenting with it. If it works, great, if it doesn't, try again. If in the end it doesn't work all I've only wasted is a bit of time.  But then again I'll have learned something.

 

Thanks again. It's always nice to get a 'wow'

 

Rearguards,

Badder

19 hours ago, Vince1159 said:

Fantastic job Badder :yes:....

Hi Vince, and thanks.

Thumbs up are always apprectiated.

But not if you're a prostate specialist.

 

Rearguards,

Badder

8 hours ago, Corsairfoxfouruncle said:

Incredible work Badder.

Thanks old bean,

I wouldn't say 'incredible', because I know all the little mistakes and naff bits! There's a lot of things less than incredible, some are even sub-standard, but ivy is going to hide a lot of them!

 

Rearguards

Badder

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1 hour ago, Major_Error said:

Just fantastic,

It is hard/impossible to know if it is real or a model.

(I am sure it is real!)

 

8-)

Hi Major,

Thanks,

If you are talking about the doors, then yes, they ARE real. They are made of wood and have had a lot of rubbing, wear, splitting, paint application, paint peeling off, soakings with water, repainting, more rubbing/wear..... in other words, they've been weathered just like real doors, except years worth has been condensed into a few hours. 😊

 

UNFORTUNATELY, THEY NO LONGER EXIST! (and that will come as no surprise to many!)

I failed to listen to @Sgt.Squarehead and  tried to accentuate some of the rot and ruined them. Never mind, no big distaster. They were a little on the large side anyway, and actually, I was thinking it would be better to have rectangular doors instead of arched ones.

So, I've made some more, and I'm about to apply the very final washes.

 

I think they may end up better than the orginals.

Pics in a bit.

 

Rearguards

Badder

 

 

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Great work, as ever, Badder. I'm not sure that I could manage to do dioramas the way you do. You make more action plans in a week than I do in a decade! 😉

 

Still... the evolutionary aspect is fascinating to watch and there are loads of lessons to be learnt from watching your processes. Much appreciated.

 

Oh, and you had better watch out or you'll be getting a "Parallel-o-Gram" from the Maths Police warning you about the severe consequences of messing with the language of mathematics (Parallelility indeed! What were you thinking?) 🙂

 

Cheers (and beers, as you know you can enjoy them)

 

Kev

 

 

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On 9/20/2018 at 7:34 PM, modelman182 said:

Great work, as ever, Badder. I'm not sure that I could manage to do dioramas the way you do. You make more action plans in a week than I do in a decade! 😉

 

Still... the evolutionary aspect is fascinating to watch and there are loads of lessons to be learnt from watching your processes. Much appreciated.

 

Oh, and you had better watch out or you'll be getting a "Parallel-o-Gram" from the Maths Police warning you about the severe consequences of messing with the language of mathematics (Parallelility indeed! What were you thinking?) 🙂

 

Cheers (and beers, as you know you can enjoy them)

 

Kev

 

 

Hi Kev and thanks.

In truth, I'm not sure that I can do dioramas in the way that I do them!

Yep, it seems I am incapable of having a plan and sticking to it - the prime example being the layout of this building which has changed 3,574 times - this week alone.

Okay, I exaggerated. It's 3,572.

 

As for my grammar, I demand an apology because the word 'Parallelity' is correct. I suspected it was, but just to be sure I looked it up in a dictionary what was on me book shelf.

This is just one of those things you've learned by following this thread,

 

Seriously though, it's humbling to read that BM members appreciate my work. There's no higher praise than that from your peers.

 

Thanks for taking the time to make a comment. I've learned nothing from it, BUT, it has inspired me to get the beers in!

 

CHEERS!

Badder

 

 

 

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'Barn doors' #2

PaufuBd.jpg

 

vZ0OhuL.jpg

 

QanhrYm.jpg

 

Now, I'm NOT saying that these are finished, or even that I'll use them, but they are contenders.

In my defence, I never planned to have these doors standing in their correct location anyway, as that would mean blocking the view of the interior. I had evisaged to have maybe one standing - attached loosely to its hinges on a remaining part of the front wall, but the other was going to be lying on the ground.

 

So, I'd best decide what I'm going to do with the front wall.

 

TFL

Badder

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What a great diorama in progress,  by the way parallelity, tis a great word, i hope it's real. apart from great dio's, you should do a bit for the oxford dictionary, love the barn door, and the plaster moldings

Glynn 

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