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PIT STOP. click on link on my 'signature' for vids


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On 10/25/2020 at 12:24 PM, Graham Boak said:

The website doesn't have have a spell checker - this is your own computer correcting you.  Presumably you have set your Windows to US English.  This is pretty easy to change in Settings.  Or somewhere, anyway.  Might take longer to find it than actually change it.

 

Graham,

Silly me. Of course. Thanks. It was my Firefox settings.

 

Rearguards,

Badder

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A tiny update.....

I've continued messing around with the long 'rear' wall, with tweaks here and there.  I am now in the process of adding window frames/woodwork to the 3 windows. I find it best to glue CA the woodwork to graph paper. This keeps everything square, and has the benefit of holding the pieces in place whilst the glue sets. It also stiffens the assembly during test-fitting and sanding to fit. Once in glued in place lashings of water will soften the paper and make it easy to remove. Sometimes though I leave those scraps of paper in place, and they can form a layer of chipped paint.                                                                    o35eJn4.jpg

 

 

The central 'room' is where the farmer keeps his tractor and bits and bobs, so I'm going to place bars over the window. From inside, the windows can be opened partially, as far as the bars will allow, should he let off a particularly nose-some fart. Otherwise the barred window will just let in a bit of light. The bars are made from plastic bristles from my trusty but rapidly diminishing yard brush.

7S0NKlH.jpg

BTW, the green moss is still there, it's just that it's been covered with overspill from more dark washes. It will reappear as if by magic when washed clean.

 

TFL

Badder

 

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Two photos of the same window bars, one in daylight, one under low-energy lightbulbs. The bars were first painted with black acrylic ink, then given a coat of white, slapped on haphazardly. Red Earth acrylic ink was then applied more precisely. The whole lot was then given a rub over with a stiff-bristled brush before some fresh white ink was dotted around and about.

sXeryIt.jpg

YLoNCss.jpg

 

TFL

Badder

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  • 2 weeks later...

Weathering has continued as always, but I've also been adding final details to the long rear wall, starting off with some more debris in the collapsed area in the middle upper floor, and then with some broken guttering and a drainpipe.

 

The guttering and its brackets was made entirely from paper, 3 layers thick and all doused with Medium CA to plasticise and strengthen it. The short section of drainpipe was made from the ink tube of a Biro pen, with the ink removed, obviously! The tube was prevented from buckling when bent into shape by inserting a piece of sanded cocktail stick up inside it. The PE bracket seen attached was discarded and replaced with a 'hoop' type bracket made from a plastic bristle from a yard brush.

 

 

 

3-layers of CA'd graph paper were used to make the guttering, the joints and brackets.

tKUKcVT.jpg

 

XIVpEQM.jpg

 

Painted up, barring some patches of rust, and fixed in place. Pretty happy with that.

lc4y4MN.jpg

 

Tni9Zmh.jpg

 

The dirt, grot and grime, especially that which is laying on the ledge of woodwork where the tiles are missing, does look very realistic. That's because it is real dirt, grot and grime, none of which was placed there deliberately! Being a 'messy' model-maker and not cleaning up after sanding/filing etc does sometimes have its benefits, especially when buildings are concerned.

 

I will be making more drainpipes and guttering for the rest of the building, fairly soon. Interestingly, I found some MiniArt gutters and drainpipes left over from my Ardennes Building (featured in my 'Ever Evolvin' Dio' further down in this forum) and the size difference is quite staggering! I'd forgotten how big MiniArt's guttering was. A 1/35th scale person could almost lay down in it! lol.

 

I have now moved on to the end room of the building and that pesky gable wall. I am toying with the idea of adding an external cast iron stairway, a bonus extra which came with MiniArt's Ardennes Building, IIRC.

 

TFL

Badder

 

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Badder

 I have once again found myself fascinated by your clever, yet quick-witted way to turn "trash into treasure". Thus saving arduous minuets- nay hours, of toil trying to clean up an area . Only to have to create debris with which to fill said area at a later date.  Doubtless a special award for "Duty Above and Before the Mundane Requirements of Modell-hood and Dust Pan Polishing" by the Wiltshire Council will doubtless be in the mail before Christmas.  Sigh, I am in aww of such a grand achievements and accolade.

 

However I do have a small, even miniscule, point of query. To wit,  the idea of using a  ballpoint pen refill as a downspout, while most ingenious causes me to wonder the efficacy of sticking a sanded cocktail stick into the tube. Would this not impede the flow of the modelling water after the  first modelling rain?    re: the usage of model vs modell, here in My home hamlet we have had to forego the double "L" as the local printer lost one of his "L"s in the flood of 1812 and replacements were not very forthcoming from England at the time.  Having now become used to this version and the incredible speed now able to be achieved when writing the word, we have adapted to the faster pace as is so like us (or U.S. :shrug:) .

 

Now as needs must, I close as the candle burns low and the quill pen grows dull from use, I whish your a peaceful and healthful time as you create and expand-----On the project! ---gee, so embarrassing--sigh.

 

p.s. I find it very neighborly  of you to set your dictionary to "US English", shows your world classy-ness.  (Please tell Graham, when next he stops by for tea and cakes, he's just jealous and naner naner naner, so there.😛)   🤣

 

Stay well and be well.

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 11/27/2020 at 11:39 PM, Prop Duster said:

Stay well and be well.

Hi Steve,

Good to 'see' you, as always. I will get around to a more comprehensive reply, but I am just popping in very quickly to post an update. I'd feel rude not to tell you that first lol

 

Rearguards,

Badder

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So, a very quick update.

I've moved around to the 'front' of the building to improve a few things, and to add some more detailing.

 

First off I improved the ground floor window, extreme right. I replaced the white stonework surround and made the window taller and narrower at the same time. It lessens the view to the chequer-floored interior, which is sad, but it looks a more believable size now.  It was probably a bit on the wide side before - structurally weak. 

bRy0Fl1.jpg

 

I'm also in the process of improving the barn doors, and fixing them in such a way as to make them open-and-closeable'

iI1BBfJ.jpg

 

I then constructed guttering, again using CA'd paper, and the drainpipe (Biro ink tube) and the wall brackets for the drainpipe (plastic broom bristles) The drainpipe extreme right is in 'limbo', waiting to be painted and weathered to completion before being fixed permanently in place.

pbt7PQm.jpg

 

 

The upper part of the drainpipe just pushes into the guttering, meaning that I can remove the more intact wall/roofing insert and replace it with the red brick one instead, should I wish.

 

yed4uRC.jpg

 

mqhXw4g.jpg 

 

I can also remove the very top bent section of drainpipe to leave just the vertical part standing. Whatever, with the collapsed red brick wall inserted, it stands like this;

ppz9dvH.jpg

 

It's barely noticeable but I've also 'fixed' all of the blue wooden planking to the walls with 'masonry nails' - just drilling out holes and adding dots of Red Earth acrylic ink to them.

 

With most of that batch of work done, I'm moving back towards those barn doors. I will most likely rework a lot of the red brickwork above and beside them. I've already removed the planking from above the doors and will move that up to the same level as that around the rest of the building. I quite fancy constructing a portico instead - a simple roof section over the doors.

 

TFL

Badder

 

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On 11/27/2020 at 11:39 PM, Prop Duster said:

 

 I have once again found myself fascinated by your clever, yet quick-witted way to turn "trash into treasure". Thus saving arduous minuets- nay hours, of toil trying to clean up an area . Only to have to create debris with which to fill said area at a later date.

 

On 11/27/2020 at 11:39 PM, Prop Duster said:

However I do have a small, even miniscule, point of query. To wit,  the idea of using a  ballpoint pen refill as a downspout, while most ingenious causes me to wonder the efficacy of sticking a sanded cocktail stick into the tube. Would this not impede the flow of the modelling water after the  first modelling rain?    re: the usage of model vs modell, here in My home hamlet we have had to forego the double "L" as the local printer lost one of his "L"s in the flood of 1812 and replacements were not very forthcoming from England at the time.  Having now become used to this version and the incredible speed now able to be achieved when writing the word, we have adapted to the faster pace as is so like us (or U.S. :shrug:) .

Howdy Steve,

Apologies for the tardy reply. 

Confession time: 'Tardy' is a word which I've never used before in my life. I've rarely heard anyone use it to be honest. I have to confess that until well into my adulthood I believed it meant 'scrappy' or 'untidy' and it was only after looking it up on Mr Google's handy information storage platform that I found out what it meant. It is an English word of course, but one which is more widely used in your much younger nation, ironically. I think we've moved away from using it as some uneducated idiots think it means 'scrappy' or 'untidy'.

I also confess to having switched my spellchecker back to the English English, because my laptop was running out of wiggly red ink. The double 'L's were the main bones of contention. Whilst I can see the logic in doing away with the extra 'L', saving on ink, letterpress letter blocks, the space on the paper/screen/side of a train carriage/Big Brother's mainframe/the cloud' and considering the enormous amounts of electricity it takes to send those extra L's via the internet, I just cannot bring myself to spelling 'Modelling' any other way. To me 'Modeling' should be pronounced MOWED LING which translates as 'A long, cod-like species of sea fish which has been run over by a mechanical grass-cutter. '. BTW don't get me started on those occasions I've told someone I'm into 'modelling' and have been met with a 'Surely not?, You're too ugly!'

Regarding my 'Biro ink tube' drainpipes, I did consider modelling some rain and having it pour from the spout at the bottom, but I found it impossible to get any 1/35th scale water. It's not the rain that's the problem - one can spray a fine mist directly downwards and take a photo and it makes quite convincing rain - it's when it settles on things that it looks way over scale. Those fine droplets tend to group together like they are a recently obliterated T1000 terminator and form in smooth hemispherical/dome shapes, Worse still, I did think 'sod it' and made some puddles with it anyway, and a few hours later, after a snooze in front of a roaring log fire, I awoke to find the puddle was gone!

 

Anyway, I must rush off. It' s nearly 6 of the morning clock and time to feed the cats, and they hate me being LATE.

 

TC

Rearguards,

Badder

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  • Badder changed the title to PIT STOP - minor disaster!!!

First things first, I wish you each and every one of you a happy and safe Christmas and New Year

 

Now, onto the adjustment to this thread's title re; 'minor disaster!!!' There's no such thing as a 'minor' disaster. A 'mishap', 'accident' or ''oh bugger, when did that happen?' would be the better phrase to use.  So, what was the 'oh bugger, when did that happen?' moment? Well, I'm not sure when it happened precisely, but it was many, many, months ago. I could search back through this thread and work it out, but I can't be bottomed. But here's a clue......

yed4uRC.jpg

To cut a very long story short, (unusual for me, I know) the ground floor brownstone wall in the photo above, had at some point in the past, and unnoticed by me, become unglued from the internal floor and had sprung outwards by about 3mm at its extreme left hand side. And when I'd made the 'inserts' with the intact upper floor whitewashed wall, window and attached roof it had been made to fit that skew-whiff wall. And this was also the case with the more ruined insert with the red brick upper wall. GRRRRRRR! I had to reposition the 'sprung' brownstone wall and re-fix it otherwise the building's two halves would be out of true. 3mm might not sound a lot, but the eye does notice it. So, the lower wall was fixed in its proper place again Now the roof section of the intact insert was out of line with that wall by 3mm at the extreme left hand side. Rather than scrap the entire insert I had a go at removing the roof, and thanks to me having used CA, I was able to cut and pry it off. The wall section itself was damaged slightly in the process. I could maybe re-use it, but I think I'm more likely to remake that section.

 

In the meantime, the red brickwork insert needed very little adjustment because it didn't have a roof attached. All I had to do was file away at the backing, removing 3mm from the LHS and filing in towards the RHS with a steadily decreasing depth.  So, problem solved, except for having to remake the intact upper wall. However, every cloud has a silver lining. That piece of roofing that was attached to that insert is now a separate entity and it can be put in place, or removed for different photo-shoots.

 

So here's the building as it stands now, with the red brick insert in place an the newly separated roof of the other insert placed on top. Also visible, just are a portico I made for the main door to the house (far right) and a cast iron 'non-slip' step for the entrance beside the barn doors.                                                                                                                                .qrzwWJf.jpg


Above: The two halves of the building are not fully connected, but when they are the join between the two will be hidden behind the column of red bricks beside the door. The brownstone wall and red brick insert slot into a grove behind it.

 

I'm reworking the red brick section above and around the barn doors. Again, CA'd paper was used to make 'cracked wall render' LMuErSl.jpg

 

The barn doors have had reinforcing woodwork added to their backs, making them much more realistic for when they are shown in the wide-open position. I plan on making some 'workable' hinges.

 

ln0CkfA.jpg

 

 

The non-slip step is dry-fitted, which is good because it isn't finished. Hopefully it will look a lot better when it is!

lvhENnB.jpg

 

TFL

 

Take care.

 

Rearguards,

Badder

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 12/25/2020 at 6:14 PM, Ozzy said:

Merry Christmas mate and good save.

Hi Clive, sorry for the awfully late reply. I haven't been involved in some tragedy or anything like that. It's just that I've been living on my own over xmas and new year as my wife was staying with her daughter, and I had to keep self-isolated, away from them. So I've been mostly watching films and tinkering with this building. I took so many photos of the progress that it all got a bit overwhelming and the thought of sifting through them and posting and update was daunting! But I've done it now.

 

So, again sorry for not keeping in touch. A belated happy Xmas to you and yours and let's hope that at the very least the last six months of 2021 will be joyous!

 

Rearguards,

Badder

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Okay, a belated and truncated update.

Basically I've been fiddling - nothing unusual there - adding some finer details to the interior and improving the 'look' of the interior supporting walls.

 

So, the walls of the upper rooms have been whitewashed and part weathered.  I figured white walls would make for a brighter interior for the residents to live in and to work in. They also just look better.

Lintels have been added above the ground floor 'living room' door through to the middle of the building.

I've re-fixed the chimney stack in place, now that there's no danger of me knocking it off.

I'm in the process of adding some beams along the supporting walls and gable wall, which when completed will form the supports for the ceiling beams.

I decided to remove a couple of glazed windows as it gives a better view into the building.

And I've discovered that No More Nails is bloomin' good stuff!

 

To the photos then.

3qk1VPt.jpg

 

ZIGigVN.jpg

 

Here I'm working on the wall far left. The 'render' is No More Nails... which smells exactly like tile grout and probably that's exactly what it is. Meanwhile I whitewashed the facing wall and added some more render in the bottom right hand corner. This time I used paper, then doused it with CA.lUB7EYw.jpg

 

The whitewashing of the upper floor supporting walls has improved the look massively I think.

4q2WoaM.jpg

 

 

 

g3DjoJY.jpg

 

qgCAaDN.jpg

 

yaxC9oX.jpg

 

 

I'm quite happy with how things are going now. I still have to remake the more 'intact' insert, but I don't think that'll prove an issue. Before then I'm going to continue adding beams and other details.

 

TFL

Badder

 

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  • Badder changed the title to PIT STOP The walls! The walls are closing in!

Well Done Badder. It has the look of an abandoned house.  BUT as the real-estate agents would say "it needs a bit of clean up and a touch of paint, then Rpobert's your mothers brother" (agents are a snooty lot it seems) 

Glad you were able to push on and get much done . It looks the "worse" for it, and thats a good thing.spacer.png

 

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7 hours ago, Badder said:

Hi Clive, sorry for the awfully late reply. I haven't been involved in some tragedy or anything like that. It's just that I've been living on my own over xmas and new year as my wife was staying with her daughter, and I had to keep self-isolated, away from them. So I've been mostly watching films and tinkering with this building. I took so many photos of the progress that it all got a bit overwhelming and the thought of sifting through them and posting and update was daunting! But I've done it now.

 

So, again sorry for not keeping in touch. A belated happy Xmas to you and yours and let's hope that at the very least the last six months of 2021 will be joyous!

 

Rearguards,

Badder

No worries Badder, good to hear your ok.

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On 1/9/2021 at 6:30 PM, Prop Duster said:

Well Done Badder. It has the look of an abandoned house.  BUT as the real-estate agents would say "it needs a bit of clean up and a touch of paint, then Rpobert's your mothers brother" (agents are a snooty lot it seems) 

Glad you were able to push on and get much done . It looks the "worse" for it, and thats a good thing.spacer.png

 

Greetings Steve,

I do actually have an uncle Bob, who was an 'agent' and whilst he's possibly a self-made millionaire (He may have spent it all since he retired 30yrs ago) he's certainly not 'snooty'. He's as common as muck. He started off in the reclamation business, then went into demolition as well, then became an agent for M15.  He was/is more your 'Bob's your U.N.C.L.E.'

 

Rearguards,

Badder

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After some more fiddling I decided to tackle that 'more intact' insert. Whilst the roof section of the original insert had been separated for re-use, I thought it would probably be best to scrap the rest and start anew.

It wasn't a hard job. I simply took the inner and outer walls apart placed them on graph paper, drew around them and then CA'd the graph paper to a sheet of FTINFBISS. It was then a case of cutting around the outlines with a scalpel. The next job was to join the inner and outer walls together, with the wall cavity width determined by the thickness of some coffee stirrers, and then to fit them to the building.

 

That's just graph paper doused with thin CA, washed, rubbed/sanded back, washed , rubbed back (vertically) and washed again.

egoz9Y8.jpg

 

The building is still in two parts, so until they are joined permanently the precise width of the inserts cannot determined. But no problem, There's a slot behind the column of red brickwork to the left of where the inserts will fit and this gives me some leeway as it makes the width wider than it need be. When all is finished and fixed in place I can drop the inserts into position easily,  then push them over to the right to fit snug up against the brownstone at the right hand corner of the building. There will be a gap on the left hand side, but that will be hidden by that column of red brickwork.

 

The next job would have been to make the window apertures, but again this couldn't be done until the exact position of the insert, when inserted and pushed to the right, was determined. So I decided to leave those until last and crack on with the wall render and exposed red brickwork. To make things simpler, I left the graph paper CA'd to the wall, to depict wall render/plaster, then cut into it and inlaid plaster casts taken from Tamiya's Brick Wall set.

 

'Daddy! You forgot to make a window in the wall!'

TksyATD.jpg

 

With the paper CA'd, washed, sanded, washed again and rubbed back before some more targetted washes,  and the brickwork painted, washed, rubbed back, and washed again, I moved onto the right hand side of the insert. I wetted the brownstone where the will abut, layered some no more nails down the side of the insert and pushed it hard up against the brownstone before wiping and/or smearing any 'splurge' that emerged from the crack, down the crack. The insert was then pulled back away from the brownstone and allowed to dry. This will be done several times until the joint is less obvious. If you look carefully you can just make out the first application of No More Nails running in a jagged line down the far RHS of the insert.

 

CQCN7km.jpg

 

So, that's that, all up to date,

 

Stay safe peeps,

TFL

Badder

 

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8 hours ago, Badder said:

 

Greetings Steve,

I do actually have an uncle Bob, who was an 'agent' and whilst he's possibly a self-made millionaire (He may have spent it all since he retired 30yrs ago) he's certainly not 'snooty'. He's as common as muck. He started off in the reclamation business, then went into demolition as well, then became an agent for M15.  He was/is more your 'Bob's your U.N.C.L.E.'

 

Rearguards,

Badder

..."He started off in the reclamation business, then went into demolition as well,"...   OK, I see this kind of work is a family trait, this building up and tearing down housing.  Good for you, following in the families foot steps, so to speak .😄 

Well enough light hearted banter.  Your discovery and use of No More Nails for this project is again another spot of brilliance in the  "Galactic Splendor" of your personal universe (I have NO idea what any of that drivel means either.)   

regardless the new /replacement/substitute  wall work is quite grand.  Well must toddle off now, face masks to wash, floors to scrub, windows to clean and all the other happy chores of a modern home manger. spacer.png 

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I had a few attempts at making a ceiling for the room  under the roof, but whilst it looked okay it blocked too much from view. I have decided to only build a partial ceiling now. I will probably break up what I've already made and use that. In the meantime, I came across some rubber matting that I'd lost, and which I always intended to use as 'wood-block' flooring for the room behind the barn doors, and the room to the left. 

 

So, I am now working on the room to the left. Again, I won't be fixing the end wall to the building until after all of the interior detailing is done. There's going to be a lot of rubble/debris in that room. The end wall and floor have been joined together and will be treated as a separate model for now.

 

The room currently being worked on, on the left, with FTINFBISS cut to size and inserted.

EanHFlt.jpg

 

 

The rubber matting, which was 'borrowed' from the dashboard of a well know make of van.

   U0b9Sm3.jpg

 

 

The woodblock flooring was CA'd to the mat before affixing the end wall. The end wall had some gaps along the bottom, visible in the photo below.

zKipfUT.jpg

 

 

So those gaps were filled with offcuts from unused FTINFBISS stonework. Then the assembly was filed/cut to fit the rest of the building.

Coffee stirrer skirting boards were gouged, scraped and scored before adding.

QrTgTJW.jpg

 

As things stand now.

9DKkBa6.jpg

 

The front area will most likely have another set of barn doors. 

 

TFL

Badder

 

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I've now got the woodblock flooring shaped and dry-fitted to the central room of the building. It too is raised above ground-level, although to a lesser extent than the room to the left.

 

If anyone wants to know how I fitted it, it was quite simple. First I had to remove the staircase, which was only tacked in place. I'd left a couple of millimetres gap under the supporting walls so I could slip a piece of graph paper under the walls and scribe around the walls to get the floor plan.  I used that as a pattern and cut out a 1mm sheet of plasticard to match, with a 5mm border on 3 sides which the wall themselves will sit on. I then cut and fixed a piece of rubber mat to fit the internal pattern on the plasticard. The rubber mat does not intrude under the walls.  This floor won't be fixed in place until the day the building is attached to the dio base.

uWpJWhM.jpg

 

 

I also made a portico to cover the barn doors and the adjacent door. The roof was made with a few rows of coffee stirrers, some extra large matchsticks for the bracing beams and CA'd paper for the  coal-tar-pitch tarpaulin roof. The roof would hide the detailing of the wall above the doors, so I collapsed a part of it so some of it can be seen. I also liked the idea of having the tarp torn and ripped, with a flap folded over by the wind, exposing the woodwork of the roof at the same time.

PvWD9MT.jpg

 

RmR5eiX.jpg

 

The barn doors will be made operational, using pins fitted top and bottom, the top one fitting into a hole drilled into the woodwork above, and the bottom one into the rubber matting.

 

Whilst work will continue on this project, I am fancying a bit of a change, so I'm going to move onto creating some ivy/creepers which will inhabit most of the far end wall to the left of the building. I'm going for some much smaller-leafed ivy than I used for the walls of the building featured in my Ever Evolvin' Dio diorama, and will probably apply this smaller ivy to that building as well, because the leaves on that one are a bit too uniform for my liking.

 

So, up next, ivy/creepers.

 

TFL

Badder

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On 2/5/2021 at 12:49 PM, Robert Stuart said:

Hope you are keeping well B

 

 

I just popped by to see how this is going - looking great, though it is taking a long time.
Now you have me wondering how the ivy will change things

 

 

 

 

Hi Robert,

Thanks for popping in. Good to hear from you. What do you mean it's taking a long time? Oh, you mean I could have built 6 real farmhouses in the time it's taken me to get this far with this mode?! lOL,  Yeah, I am incredibly slow. It's all down to not having ever planned ahead and then sticking to it, and then for my habit of going back and improving something I thought was good when I first made it. 

Still, there are many, many, parts of the building which are now finished. I know that because they've been sitting there unchanged for a year or more. I am getting very close to finishing the construction of the last room, with maybe a day or two's more work to do. Then it will be a case of adding details here there and everywhere around the building.

Because of that, I decided to leave the ivy for now and get the last room finished first. I mean, it makes sense really. I just got temporarily bored with walls and fancied a change. 

 

Referring to the ivy again, I will need to add enough, in the right places, to suggest that the building has been derelict for a few years, rather than freshly damaged, so it will have to creep over the tops of the walls and invade the building in places. That will be an interesting job! I suspect I'll make the ivy 'off the building', and then when it's finished stick it all on.

 

Anyway, below are a few pics of the last room as it stands at the moment.

 

TC,

Rearguards,

Badder

 

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Yes, making ivy now, before making the last walls of the building, was a silly idea. Far more sensible to finish off the main structure of the building first.

 

Originally, the entire front wall would have been brownstone, but when the owners decided to turn the roof from a single pitch to a double pitch and raised the height of the walls, they used bricks. There wasn't enough brownstone in the original building to make the change.

So, out with the plaster of Paris and the latex moulds taken from Tamiya's Brick Wall Set, Some of the casts were chopped and filed to make a column to match that on the RHS of the barn doors, while others were chopped up and filed to make the remains of the brickwork to the left of the new column. I also began to toy with ideas as to how to support the walls over the doorway. I did think about an iron girder, but thought that a bit too advanced for rustic building such as this. A bit of murdered tree would do fine.

 

In the photo below the bare plaster brickwork and the freshly painted brickwork is CA'd to the middle section of the building, everything to the right of the new brickwork is a separate, dry-fitted section.

 

 

w8DNslk.jpg

 

 

Having plumped for a wooden lintel, it was a case of making sure it was strong enough to bridge the gap and support the brickwork above. Two lintels were required then, I thought, placed one in front of the other. The remains of the wall above would sit on these. Balsa wood was used for the lintels, which were scored and gouged for the first stage of the 'rotting process'.  The wooden lintel is CA'd to the wall on the left, but only dry-fitted into the red brickwork on the right.  Eventually, all of this will be CA'd, but for now the LHS room is removable.

E4ZyFZP.jpg

 

po7STao.jpg

 

I still haven't re-hinged the barn doors. I figure I'll do that when I make the barn doors for the current room. But I did add a door handle to.... guess which barn door? The one that didn't have one. LOL.  Whilst the first door had a spare MiniArt door handle, the other has been gifted a loader's-hatch handle from a Tiger I late. Yes, the building was derelict before the Tiger I late existed. I figure the farmer had a time machine. Besides, it's a good opportunity to show off the portico over the barn doors again. Little things please little minds, but I'm quite chuffed with how it turned out. It looks like a bitumen roof to me. I love the bit where the tarp has flipped over in the wind, exposing the wood planks underneath.

 

Anyway, onwards and upwards, I'm getting there!

 

TC

Rearguards,

Badder

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Badder
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  • 2 weeks later...
On 2/11/2021 at 7:12 PM, Ozzy said:

Fantastic progress Badder, it’s looking very impressive.

Thanks Clive,

I'm getting there!

I believe I may have all the other roof sections done in the next day or two. Once those are done it will just be a case of adding an external hatchway to the cellar, replacing a couple of windows which I'm not happy with and then making all of the fallen debris. The latter will be a piece of cake as all of the scrapped pieces I've made, or started making and then stopped, made then replaced, will form 99 percent of that. Then it'll just be the ivy to do.

 

TC

Rearguards,

Badder 

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Here's the thing about deciding to make a 'multi-pose' building, well over half-way through the project. There are parts which were made with the intention of being permanent fixtures that then become non-permanent fixtures. And then more things are made which dry-fit to and compliment those non-permanent fixtures, or have to be attached to them permanently. And then there's the option of leaving those temporary fixtures off, and replacing them with something else on some occasions. But some things only look right when combined with other things. You can't always add one temporary fixture and leave off another. Whatever, it's not a simple case of making everything, constructing it all as a whole and gluing it in place.

 

So, there are a thousand possibilities, and deciding which to go for isn't easy, but I've gotten there in the end. I now have everything sorted in my head and am close to finishing off all of the roof sections, They are ALL removable and some can be placed in different positions.

 

Anyway, to start off with, the front middle to LHS of the building showing the progress of the 'new' brickwork and wall render, the render being paper doused with thin CA.

Kv7IT2g.jpg

 

 

And here's a new section of roof, to the LHS. The bare coffee stirrer rafters far left are part of the structure, the whole thing being dry-fitted into the fop of the wall. The top ridge beam dry-fits with the ridge beam from the right. The joint will be tidied up to look as if it's one single piece. However, I can also 'drop' that new roof section so that it's part collapsed into the building or collapsed further to touch the floor of the upper room. There will be a minimal number of roof tiles added to this roof section, the rest being scattered on the floor.  Alternatively, I can tilt the roof section the other way, into the room on the left, if I add a heavier section of tiled roof to its left hand side.

 

Spum2n6.jpg

 

 

Looking down into the room you can see 'the mess' resulting from filing/sanding etc, plus some odds and ends which I have yet to use on the model. But that accindental mess of plaster/plastic/wood dust will end up as part of the debris on the floor.  I will be making a section of roof to match the one bottom right in the photo, to fit over the middle room but it will consist of rafters/beams and will only have a few remaining tiles.

PeHZDmg.jpg

 

 

And because I've always liked the look of the red brickwork 'repairs' done at the apex of the supporting wall, I've deliberately collapsed the roof in that area so that it can be seen.

iOZBdui.jpg

 

 

And a bonus pic of nothing in particular....except that there will be roof sections collapsed into the room far left, much of it landing in the ground floor room as the floor above will have collapsed.

JKAJGzE.jpg

 

TFL,

Stay safe,

Rearguards,

Badder

 

 

 

Edited by Badder
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