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Mikey-1980

Revell BAe Hawk T.1 - Red Arrows 1:72

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Morning all!

 

Well, my second topic for this fine forum....A friend of mine has commissioned me to build him a BAe Hawk T.1 as part of his on going projects for his artist page. 

 

https://www.facebook.com/mrlongtheartist/

 

I've previously built a 1:32 scale Mk.IIb Spit for him, which features in his piece "with the sun at my back" as reference points for him.

 

In his next project, the BAe Hawk is the subject of choice, and here is the build log for it....

 

27985254208_dbaf75bebf_c.jpgDSC_1179

 

27985252788_ee5f089fc4_c.jpgDSC_1180

 

A decent full colour instruction manual

41853906001_8cc97a2297_c.jpgDSC_1181

 

26985729087_c61f3a28b0_c.jpgDSC_1183

 

Decal sheet is nice and thick, especially the white markings

26985731577_7f59467e91_c.jpgDSC_1182

 

Red Sprue's to hopefully help with the final paint of Tamiya TS-49, there's a bit of flash from themould, but generally its a good level of details for a 1:72 scale kit.

 

41136748774_1e5577326f_c.jpgDSC_1184

 

My only concern is the det cords for the canopy...my thinking is to apply a gentle wash of white so that the paint recess into the det-cord sections and then wipe away the excess paint whilst it is still wet.

 

The cockpit goes together fairly quickly, and I've decided to try and paint the detail into the dials

 

26986915287_2c3ef349bc_c.jpgDSC_1186

 

Seats are up next, lots of detail on them as well.

41137932164_795817a414_c.jpgDSC_1185

 

thoughts  / comments are all welcomed :)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Small update, the MB.10 seats and cockpit are pretty much done....small and fiddly though

 

42003391901_9e2322c339_c.jpgDSC_1197

 

41959073472_878cdc605d_c.jpgDSC_1198

 

Lighting was getting a bit poor by this point...

 

28131362018_4de2a9d332_c.jpgDSC_1202

 

42003382111_dfa4ece240_c.jpgDSC_1203

 

28131357448_3dc80ea692_c.jpgDSC_1205

 

More to come when I get the chance to. As always, comments welcomed

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Nice work so far! Cockpit looks great! :)

 

Håkan

 

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Small update today, just buttoning up the fuselage.

 

28262771228_bc2ff3c181_c.jpgDSC_1208

 

lots of filler and sanding needed though. this is just one example of the fit. not bad...but not great.

 

42088773022_8068441812_c.jpgDSC_1211

 

Comments welcomed....

 

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Fuselage joined, that's nice! :)

Nothing a little putty and sanding can't handle! :)

 

Håkan

 

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Small update

 

Wings are on and the main principle build is almost done

 

41512781174_1c534e07aa_c.jpgDSC_1213

 

40427101590_50b64e75c5_c.jpgDSC_1212

 

28362459038_2bccfdecf3_c.jpgDSC_1214

 

I had managed to do slightly more than the pics show, the forward canopy din't fit, standing proud by 2mm so some cleaver shaving of the cockpit display was needed.

 

I'm not wondering how to paint/colour the det cords in the canopy to highlight them?

 

I'm thinking f a very fine drawing pen possibly a Roiting 0.2mm drawing pen to highlight the det. cords....and thoughts and tips would be appreciated.

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On ‎5‎/‎21‎/‎2018 at 9:18 AM, Mikey-1980 said:

I'm not wondering how to paint/colour the det cords in the canopy to highlight them?

 

I'm thinking f a very fine drawing pen possibly a Roiting 0.2mm drawing pen to highlight the det. cords....and thoughts and tips would be appreciated.

 

Hi Mikey,

 

I happened to have just done this job a few days ago on the same kit. Why didn't Revell mould the detonation cord recessed on the inside instead of raised? A simple oil wash and wipe away the excess would have done the trick then.

 

I spent most of the day trying different techniques, but in the end I used some ammo of Mig acrylic paint and a fine brush to carefully paint it on. Then the edges were cleaned with a damp cocktail stick. Once dry I then dipped it in AK gauzy glass coat. The nice thing about using the ammo acrylic was it removed easily whilst not fully hardened compared to my first attempt with Tamiya acrylics.

 

You could mask it then spray if you have an airbrush, but that's a lot of fiddly masking.

 

That sounds like a good idea using a fine pen, I didn't have one of those.

 

Good luck

 

Mark.

 

 

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Hi Mark,

 

Thanks for the tips there, I tried a Roiting 0.1mm drawing pen but it wouldn't adhere to the surface, plus looked a bit odd.

 

I was thinking about very very carefully painting over the raised det cords....possibly with a light grey?

 

If I get a chance over the bank holiday I'll have a crack and post some pics.

 

:)

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I didn't go for painting the det. cord lines as they would have been ruined and looked poor....my lack of a steady hand would have ruined the canopy....

 

So I pressed on with the canopy completion and the priciple build..

 

40631386780_2d42a7fa5e_c.jpgDSC_1226

 

40631387250_6c75065767_c.jpgDSC_1227

 

Masked up and ready for paint, though my local hobby shop let me down on the order of Tamiya's TS-49 rattle can paint...so its now been delayed until it arrives.

 

27569069497_1c0a84a0f0_c.jpgDSC_1228

 

I am a little confused as to what these three small holes are on the fuselage though? there are similar ones on the starboard side too...

 

41716004984_b70df34da9_c.jpgDSC_1230

 

There is also a large hole on the top of the fuselage too with no indication in the instructions as to what should go there, any ideas?...This on I am tempted to fill over with putty and smooth over prior to paint.

 

More to follow on :)

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Those holes are supposed to be there. The large hole on top of the fuselage is the starter exhaust.  Some of the others I presume are outlets for various engine related equipment, but they should all be there. I think a couple are actually glassed over like they are inspection windows. 

 

on my build I backed the holes with plasticard so they weren't open into the empty fuselage cavity. The ones that are glassed over I'll add some kristal klear at the end.

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ahhhhhh Thanks @Diggers11 That explains a lot. I can use the starter exhaust outlet and do some mild weathering on it.

 

I'll see about getting some krystal clear to fill in the side inspection ports too. :)

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7 hours ago, Mikey-1980 said:

ahhhhhh Thanks @Diggers11 That explains a lot. I can use the starter exhaust outlet and do some mild weathering on it.

 

I'll see about getting some krystal clear to fill in the side inspection ports too. :)

No problem Mikey.

I have just looked at the Hawk T.1 walkaround on this site and it seems that on the starboard side the forward and rear ones are holes and the middle two have lenses. On the Port side there are three with again the forward and rear ones being open holes and the middle one being lensed. It looks like they use the rear most holes on both sides to hook on the exhaust cover.

 

I noticed from your photos that your kit has the "officially licensed product" hologram sticker on the box, which was missing from my box. I believe yours may be from a newer batch than mine (I got mine when it first came out). Has there been any cleaning up of the mould since the first batch? Because my example had more flash and scratches than I would expect from a new tooling.

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SOOOOOOOO much flashing was needed to be cleaned up..Nor have I seen such flashing on a kit since early Italeri kits I made as a kid.

 

I wouldn't be surprised if this kit is the same as the one you build, just with a fancy new box and a hologram.

 

Thanks for the tips on the walk around, I'll take a closer look too

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1 hour ago, Mikey-1980 said:

 

SOOOOOOOO much flashing was needed to be cleaned up..Nor have I seen such flashing on a kit since early Italeri kits I made as a kid.

 

I wouldn't be surprised if this kit is the same as the one you build, just with a fancy new box and a hologram.

 

Thanks for the tips on the walk around, I'll take a closer look too

Its definitely the same kit as mine. I just hoped that it had been tidied up a bit and the moulds polished but it seems not. Considering this was a new-tool in 2015 I expected better quality moulding although I don't think the red plastic helps. Grey plastic would show off the detail better and make flash removal easier to see.

 

I don't know if its too late in your build to mention but the rear end above the exhaust on this kit is not really accurate for anything other than the earliest hawks in service. Its possibly not that big of an issue depending on how accuracy obsessed you are. 

 

Essentially the kit comes with the short fillet behind the fin but most Hawk's were later refitted with a longer fillet including the Red Arrows depicted in the decals. Unfortunately its not just a case of extending the fillet as the shape of the rear fuselage also changed. The kits fuselage upper surface behind the fin curves down too much and is only correct for an early aircraft pre modification. (It is correct for my model because I happened to be doing a very early aircraft). I'll try to private message you some photos that explain the difference better than I can explain here.

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Those images will defiantly be put to use when detailing the rear end and the smoke pipes.

 

Managed to find a bit time yesterday to try and paint the hawk....however some issues were encountered.

 

Before paint

27674735447_34c9aea19b_c.jpgDSC_1291

 

Not sure it was the heat or just that Tamiya's TS-49 Bright Red paint just did not want to site properly...Could be that it was a gloss paint too?

 

The other issue was that it would not adhere to the acrylic canopy either......I painted the frame dark grey ahead of the top coat but the TS-49 just would not lay over the acrylic....

 

Also for some reason the paint started to pool slightly as well.....DISASTER!! Sadly no pics of the pooling were taken.

 

27674733927_20c0c1f8e1_c.jpgDSC_1292

 

However, all being said, the gloss coating does look good.

 

42493157272_782762cbc4_c.jpgDSC_1293

 

Now that it has dried I've started to gently sand back the paint to eliminate the effects caused by the pooling....I thought about using an acetone based remover to gently strip back the paint, but I am unsure on the reaction it may have with the plastic fuselage. Any advise would be great. 

 

 

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Looks very nice in that gloss red! A pity with the pooling though! 

 

Håkan

 

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6 hours ago, Mikey-1980 said:

Those images will defiantly be put to use when detailing the rear end and the smoke pipes.

Really useful aren't they, I like to keep little bits of information I find on forums like this.

 

7 hours ago, Mikey-1980 said:

The other issue was that it would not adhere to the acrylic canopy either......I painted the frame dark grey ahead of the top coat but the TS-49 just would not lay over the acrylic....

How long did you leave the dark grey to dry before spraying the red? Maybe the Tamiya spray cans don't like other acrylics or was that a Tamiya spray can as well?

 

6 hours ago, Mikey-1980 said:

Now that it has dried I've started to gently sand back the paint to eliminate the effects caused by the pooling....I thought about using an acetone based remover to gently strip back the paint, but I am unsure on the reaction it may have with the plastic fuselage. Any advise would be great. 

Unfortunately I have never used Tamiya's Spray paints except their primer so I don't know what went wrong. Maybe you sprayed too close or it could have been temperature I don't know. I would probably stick with sanding back the affected areas rather than striping it with acetone. I have never tried stripping paint with acetone but apparently it melts styrene plastic. If the spray paint is acrylic you may be able to use a high percentage IPA (isopropanol alcohol) to remove it or even Tamiya X-20A Acrylic thinner, they seem to remove most the acrylic paints I have tried. The problem may be the propellant used in the spray cans has etched into the plastic surface where it has pooled and caused damage to the plastic under the surface of the paint.

 

Sorry If this wasn't very helpful but it looks like you got a nice glossy red finish on most of it.

 

Mark.

 

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Hi Mark,

 

I've managed to sand back as much as I can, will just have to try and see I think?

 

The grey had been applied 5 days prior to the spraying so it was thoroughly dried through. I think it may just be the chemical make up of the red paint that doent like darker colours underneath.

 

It struggled to cover the white filler on the seem lines as well.

 

Patients and determination I think :)

 

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Small update.......

 

the paint issue on the side has been rectified....gentle sand and clean then a reapplication of TS-49 has done the trick.........however.....

 

During the sanding process I accidentally caught the re-fueling probe and snapped clean in 2......to then be devoured by the arch nemesis....the carpet monster.....almost an hour on my knees with a head torch with no luck...so any suggestions or tips on how to fashion one would be a great help.

 

Also, it would seem that the masking tape I was using is substandard as the paint had seeped through onto the acrylic canopy. So I took a punt and used some acetone free nail polish remover with some cotton buds to gently clean up the excess paint. seems to have done the job but on the top of the canopy it has left a slight red haze.

 

Tried to take a pic, but I couldn't get it focus.

 

This build is fighting me at every step......

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23 hours ago, Mikey-1980 said:

The grey had been applied 5 days prior to the spraying so it was thoroughly dried through. I think it may just be the chemical make up of the red paint that doent like darker colours underneath.

 

It struggled to cover the white filler on the seem lines as well.

I think we can rule out the grey not being cured enough to overpaint as 5 days should be plenty for acrylics. Red is notoriously difficult to paint over dark (even white it seems) colours because it tends to have a low pigment density. I think the trick is lots of light coats allowing it to dry in between, not very easy with a spray can.

 

6 hours ago, Mikey-1980 said:

During the sanding process I accidentally caught the re-fueling probe and snapped clean in 2......to then be devoured by the arch nemesis....the carpet monster.....almost an hour on my knees with a head torch with no luck...so any suggestions or tips on how to fashion one would be a great help.

I'm guessing you mean the pitot tube on the nose as the Hawk T.1 doesn't have a refuelling probe. If I am correct I presume the support is still attached to the airframe and its snapped along the tube itself. On mine I glued the pitot to the nose as the instruction suggest, then I cut the tube section off and drilled a hole in the end and replaced it with some Albion Alloys slide fit brass tube. The brass tube is a lot stronger than the plastic and because its slide fit (telescopic) you get 4 tubes per pack each slides inside the previous diameter, handy for scratch building pitot's and gun nozzles. The pack I have is labelled SFT2 this includes one of each of the following external diameters, 0.3mm, 0.5mm, 0.7mm and 0.9mm. Also Master model is a polish company that produce great turned brass pitot's and I just checked they do one for a 1/72 Hawk T1 http://www.master-model.pl/product/am-72-020.html these you just use super glue to stick them in a pre drilled hole.

Another solution could be to use an old needle or a bit of wire.

7 hours ago, Mikey-1980 said:

Also, it would seem that the masking tape I was using is substandard as the paint had seeped through onto the acrylic canopy. So I took a punt and used some acetone free nail polish remover with some cotton buds to gently clean up the excess paint. seems to have done the job but on the top of the canopy it has left a slight red haze.

What masking tape did you use? I use Tamiya which works well but even then you have to make sure the edges are stuck down and you don't paint too heavily on top as it can bleed under the edges.

I wonder if acetone free nail polish remover is similar to IPA. Is the red haze you mentioned just paint residue left in the tiny scratches on the surface or has it discoloured the plastic? Maybe some more rubbing with the nail polish remover will remove it.

7 hours ago, Mikey-1980 said:

This build is fighting me at every step...…

I know that feeling. 

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WOW!!

 

Thank you so much for that link for the Pitot tube, absolutely perfect! just on hannants now about to click purchase :)

 

To be honest I used just normal masking tape, I have some Tamiya masking tape for for some bizzare reason I decided not to use it......lesson learned.

 

I tried to clean up as much of the red hue on the canopy and is very very light now. gently used a Que tip with some nail polish and gently rubbed over the canopy. it has discoloured slightly but not a massive amount.  Mentioned it to my friend I'm building this for and he's ok with it. The pitot tube is the big frakk up, but that will be resolved soon enough

 

40787258110_88dfd1387a_c.jpgDSC_1298

 

28720015428_f7517792fa_c.jpgDSC_1297

 

 

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**update.....1:72 pitot tube ordered.....from flee-bay....quicker and cheaper than Hannants too... :)

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Nice that you got both the paint and pitot solved! Looks good! :)

 

Håkan

 

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2 hours ago, Mikey-1980 said:

**update.....1:72 pitot tube ordered.....from flee-bay....quicker and cheaper than Hannants too... :)

I used their 1/72 pitot for the Harrier GR1 on my Airfix kit. They are great quality and easy to install, the instruction even tell you what size diameter hole to drill to locate it. I also used one on my Revell 1/72 MiG-21 F-13, that was a little bit more tricky as it had 4 photoetch vanes to stick along the sides of the pitot tube.

 

Seeing the photo you posted showing the broken kit pitot reminded me that I did the exact same thing on mine. Fortunately I decided I was going to replace it before I broke it, so I didn't worry to much about it.

 

Mark.

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When it snapped I did make a similar sound of a shocked Deadpool or 12 year old girl......my other half thought I'd hurt myself haha!! 

 

Nope....just snapped my probe! haha!

 

deadpoolshocked.jpg

 

DOH!

 

 

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