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Spitfire Mk. Vb - Tamiya 1/48


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Outstanding work on that Spit’! Beautiful rendition. The paint work & weathering are superb! Like also the riveting work! Any more clue about how you did it please? 😋

 

congrats again!

 

Frank

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Thank you all for your kind words!

 

 

22 hours ago, serial modeler said:

It simply leaves me speechless.  Great work on the detail and the dry brushing, a true work of art!

I've only applied a very subtle drybrushing on the cockpit elements. Recently for that I'm using Tamiya Weathering Masters, as it allows much greater control, than Vallejo or enamel paint.

 

4 hours ago, Frank083 said:

Outstanding work on that Spit’! Beautiful rendition. The paint work & weathering are superb! Like also the riveting work! Any more clue about how you did it please? 😋

 

congrats again!

 

Frank

 

For the straight rivet lines I used a conventional riveter, the SBS Model's Z63 Riveter. The round rivet pattern was done by a precision caliper compass, with sharp needles. As it can be adjusted by screw, the tool is solid, so such nice circles can be done.

 

 

 

 

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Interesting subject, the stripes really make it 'different' to other Spitfires.

Excellent paint and weathering job with great attention to fine details.

Looks very realistic!

You have done a good job, Sir!

Edited by Roman Schilhart
typo
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Thanks a lot!

 

Actually its only the 2nd 1/48 scale model I've ever made, I was focusing on 1/72 scale. The 1/48 scale requires a much different approach for painting and weathering.

 

- Riveting: from my point of view riveting is a must in this scale. Its adding the needed extra detail to the surface, giving more playground for the weathering. A subtle wash with the right color (pure black to be avoided) should make it visible, but not prominent.

- Textures: this advanced preshading method comes for a local fellow modeller, Mr. Karoly Bera (check his tutorials on the web, really worth it). I tried to adapt  his solution to build up a more realistic, complex and non-uniform finish. I find it very effective, and fast way to do it. No postshading is needed, everyhing can be done with the thin final paint layer, especially if more tones are used.

 

Some of my best practices:

 

- smoothing every paint layers: I use dry!! 6000-8000 grit Micromesh or Mr Hobby Laplos abrasives go get a silk smooth surface for the next layer. I do it on the Surfacer, paint, coat. It helps to preserve the surface details, a thinner layer of gloss coat can be used.

- no pure black: pure black is unrealistic in any scale, I use dark greens or greys instead (Tamiya XF-69 and XF-85 are good options). The same would apply for pure white, but the filter used for weathering will soften it.

- calculating with effect of the scale, filter and the coating - I usually start with much lighter hue of the colours, as both the filters and the matt coat will darken it. The same applies for textures and preshading, leave it bit stronger, because after the final matt coat it will be just fine.

- Tamiya Weathering Masters for soot and dust:  my favorite materials to apply for gunsmoke and dust to the surface. I apply it with thin hair but stiff brush (for example Da Vinci Forte Basic flat 2), very easy to control. 

 

 

Edited by grab
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