amblypygid Posted April 30, 2018 Author Share Posted April 30, 2018 Thanks; I can see that the Canadian Halifax has black wells, but on the other hand that would disguise the detail. Tricky... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dogsbody Posted April 30, 2018 Share Posted April 30, 2018 I'm not sure if they had black painted wheel wells. As these would only be opened just before landing over home turf and closed again soon after takeoff, they were probably RAF interior green. Bomb bays and doors were black, as these were opened over the target and the glare of searchlights. Chris 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stever219 Posted April 30, 2018 Share Posted April 30, 2018 I’m with Elger on this one; black for the undercarriage wells. I’m sure that, long ago in a happier, simpler universe, this topic was discussed at length in (possibly) SAM. Early in the war wheel wells had been either grey-green or aluminium, but sometime around the end of April 1942, when Red code letters and serial numbers were introduced for night bombers and the “Type C1” National Marking iii replaced the earlier “Type A1” fuselage roundels, an instruction was issued to manufacturers to paint wheel wells in Night. I think that RDM2ASpecial Night had been withdrawn around the same time so Smooth Night would have been the default option. As Smooth Night has a slight sheen this might be the way to go to show off the detail on your etched parts. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CJP Posted May 1, 2018 Share Posted May 1, 2018 On 4/28/2018 at 8:18 AM, CJP said: Hi amblypygid- I have only just noticed your 100 Group build project so I had a look at my information I've collected over the years & found some information on 100 Group that I cut out of Scale Models magazine about 1980 - send me a PM if of any interest CJP Hi amblypygid & dogsbody - FYI initially I incorrectly referred to 100 Group as 100BG - since updated in my post but obviously I cant change it where it has been used as a quote in your replies - thanks to stever219 for pointing it out CJP 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amblypygid Posted May 1, 2018 Author Share Posted May 1, 2018 I hadn't even noticed; goes to show that often one reads what one expects to read. I need to paint the wheel well roofs anyway, so I can repaint in black. Thanks, all! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elger Posted May 1, 2018 Share Posted May 1, 2018 11 hours ago, amblypygid said: Thanks; I can see that the Canadian Halifax has black wells, but on the other hand that would disguise the detail. Tricky... lately I've been using a dark gray (usually RLM 66 actually) and adding shading in deeper areas with a black wash and then sometimes dry brushing details with a lighter gray. Works great to bring out details in areas that are supposed to be black. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CJP Posted May 1, 2018 Share Posted May 1, 2018 4 hours ago, amblypygid said: I hadn't even noticed; goes to show that often one reads what one expects to read. Ain't that the truth - anyway the main thing is that you got the chapters ok as they should support your builds. CJP 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amblypygid Posted May 1, 2018 Author Share Posted May 1, 2018 They certainly will, Chris, thanks. I haven't done more than flick through thus far as work demands attention right now, but there's a lot there. Elger, I don't think RLM66 is in my collection as I have a very limited range of RLM colours, but I certainly have a selection of dark greys to work with. I just picked up some Hataka paints to use on a modern Luftwaffe Tornado, might give one of them a trial run if it's dark enough. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stever219 Posted May 1, 2018 Share Posted May 1, 2018 Thanks CJP for the breakdown of the “Aircraft of 100 Group” articles from Scale Models. I think that I have photocopies of all of them and late last year I managed to obtain a copy of “Confound and Destroy” which replicates much of this. Some of the cutaway drawings are particularly useful, as is the sketch of the Jostle (?) transmitter in the bomb bay of a B-17 (reference for my hoped-for Airfix Fortress III. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amblypygid Posted May 12, 2018 Author Share Posted May 12, 2018 We went away last weekend for our son's birthday, though the trip was not Halifax-free as we stopped off at the Yorks Air Museum and had a look at their Halifax. The hangar is crammed and so you can only normally see it from the nose; I didn't feel wealthy enough to splash out for the full onboard experience. My son's favourite part was seeing a Tallboy bomb (they have part of a Grand Slam there too) and being able to climb into a Canberra cockpit. Between that and work, not much modelling has happened. I resprayed the main gear wells black (and while I was about it laid down a first coat of Mig Ammo Satin Black on the main wing undersides), and then the other night I got stuck into the tail and their PE actuators. Putting the tail together for photo today shows that I didn't pay attention to aligning them! The problem is, I'm not sure that they'll withstand removal (or that I'll do a better job next time round!) They're at the limit of my capacity to deal with tiny bits of metal. Jane retained the yellow/black striped tail from 462's time in 4 Group. My intent is to paint this rather than rely on decals, but I appear to have mislaid my pot of yellow paint so I've ordered some more. Eduard provide PE actuators for the rudders (unlike the elevators, Revell included the rudder actuators in their mould), but I won't be using them as I can't think how to mask over them for the striping, or how to attach them post-painting without knackering the paintwork. 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CedB Posted May 12, 2018 Share Posted May 12, 2018 I wouldn't worry Chris, they're tiny and won't notice under some paint. If you're really mithered then CA de-bonder? I have some but I haven't tried it yet. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amblypygid Posted May 12, 2018 Author Share Posted May 12, 2018 Good deployment of mither, Ced. I'm honestly not sure what to do, I think perhaps best to leave well alone. Of course, since I'm not using the rudder actuators, that means I have spares should I need them. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Azgaron Posted May 12, 2018 Share Posted May 12, 2018 Nice work so far! Håkan 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amblypygid Posted May 13, 2018 Author Share Posted May 13, 2018 Tack, Håkan. (See, I have learned something from watching The Bridge other than Danish swear words.) i turned my attention back to the wings yesterday and started work on the engine nacelles. Word of warning: if you use the PE, you really need to thin down the plastic otherwise the fit goes rapidly awry. I ended up with a gap of about 1mm at the rear of one, but whether this was the result of the PE slightly deforming the wheel well fit, or the PE on the nacelles affecting their fit, I'm not sure. I think the latter as test fits pre-PE seemed pretty good. So there was then a lot of filler as I tried to fill the gaps at the rear of the nacelles. I'm hoping that the location of worst gaps (inboard and below the wings) will mean that my not particularly smooth filler will not be too noticeable... The outboard nacelles, which are simple plastic, fit neatly. Eduard also provide PE for some sort of intake filter; I did one but they're invisible in the end so I didn't bother with the rest. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CedB Posted May 13, 2018 Share Posted May 13, 2018 Very nice Chris, looking good 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigbadbadge Posted May 13, 2018 Share Posted May 13, 2018 This is a very interesting build. I have the Revell Merlin engined kit to build one day. Great work so far. All the best Chris 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Azgaron Posted May 13, 2018 Share Posted May 13, 2018 Looking good! Nice work there! Always nice to learn something new. Danish swear words in a mexican border criminal case? Håkan 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amblypygid Posted May 13, 2018 Author Share Posted May 13, 2018 6 hours ago, Azgaron said: Danish swear words in a mexican border criminal case? Probably not; I've not seen any of the spin-offs, but perhaps they'd have run for more seasons had they had Danish profanity. Today's focus has been on the engines. I spent a little while drooling over the lovely looking Neomega resin engines that I don't have, and then got to work on the plastic that Revell provides, with one teeny Eduard PE enhancement. Actually, they're not at all bad. Each engine is made from six parts: two sets of cylinders, the pipework that sticks out of the back of the cylinders, the prop shaft (and the bit that goes around the prop shaft, the name of which I always forget), and a collector ring. The only issue I found was that the propshafts won't fit onto the foremost set of cylinders. You can see the projecting ring in the back row of the above photo. My solution was to cut that down to about half the moulded size, at which point the prop shafts went on fine. Of course, once the cowling is on, there's little to be seen. Here's how they look with and without cowling. Neomega's resin would be wasted behind that. But it did make me think about a future Stirling in a refit mini-dio: one resin engine about to be mounted and a replacement cowling with the unpainted gills. Barring the wing lights and the landing gear, that brings the wings to completion - i.e., ready for paint. Back to the fuselage next, and the turrets... 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Azgaron Posted May 13, 2018 Share Posted May 13, 2018 Nice work with the engines! Will look nice with some paint! Håkan 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amblypygid Posted May 13, 2018 Author Share Posted May 13, 2018 Paint may be a while yet as I can only usually airbrush at weekends. The next two weekends are a little busy, though following a similar sequence: visit Duxford on Saturday (Harvard flight first, then air show) followed by the leisurely comedown of two parties for seven year olds on the Sunday. Still, I'm sure I'll get some time with the brush. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CedB Posted May 13, 2018 Share Posted May 13, 2018 Nice engines Chris and, as you say, nice enough behind the cowlings. Harvard Flight at Duxford? I assume it'll be Wacky Rabbit and, if Brian Jones is flying you, do give him my best regards! Enjoy... as I'm sure you will (No, not the parties, I hope you survive...) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amblypygid Posted May 13, 2018 Author Share Posted May 13, 2018 50 minutes ago, CedB said: Harvard Flight at Duxford? I assume it'll be Wacky Rabbit and, if Brian Jones is flying you, do give him my best regards! I shall do, Ced! Though I believe that they have a new (to Classic Wings) Harvard decked out in Canadian colours that is seeing a lot of action lately. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBaron Posted May 13, 2018 Share Posted May 13, 2018 That engine work looks the business Chris. Super progress! 👍 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cees Broere Posted May 14, 2018 Share Posted May 14, 2018 Nice work, always good to see Handley Page's finest getting some attention. Cees 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dogsbody Posted May 14, 2018 Share Posted May 14, 2018 Please be advised that the Revell colour call-outs for the engines are WRONG! The piping at the rear should not be painted Rust. These are the air induction pipes and were probably black. The central gear casings at the front of the engines is NOT grey. These were a semi-gloss black. The cylinders were not aluminum. A dark steel would be more realistic, especially with a black wash. Or painted black with a steel/aluminum/silver dry-brush. The exhaust collector can be painted a light rust to represent the heat-stained steel. Chris 2 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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