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Panther Gs early and else


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Besides bacon ideas and mouth watering imaginations I tried myself on the VMS Pigment 01 fine grade, that is some texture, in Alkyd Binder. Went for a rather thin slurry and scrubbed at it after about 2-3 h drying time. Also went at it with their Weathering Carrier what they say is some white spirits. This is what I could achieve until now.

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About the few products I tested so far, I cant say anything negative. I like their versatile approach (you can do different stuff with almost the same products) and explain applications and the prices arent bad. Still I would say I need a lot more practice and try combining their pigments and binders with the MIG enamel earth products I have.

 

The Pigment 01 in Alkyd binder gets a bit darker than directly out of the bottle and is less course than I expected. But again, I applied it rather thin.

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Hey there, put the dirt onto the side. This time a paste made of 60% pigment 2 EU brown Earth and 40% pigment 1 EU light Earth. Also added some garden soil. That stuff now went on rather thick and after some drying moved it along and did some washing with just plain weathering carrier. Also added some to the underside for some diversity. Wonder what they use for texture, might be some kind of plaster?

However. The moving around with carrier resulted in some washout effect, so you get some shading with one pigment. Like they say in their tutorials. Still not completely happy, the inside of the wheels need some care and the center wheels a bit of darker dirt too, although these got the darker hull treatment as well.

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Good evening, I am in the progress of glueing the guideteeth to the track links. Yes am going for using the 186 kit links. I payed for it, so I use it. Now I tryed to figure out what to do for the base and looked into my stash. Found the Tamiya crew rearming a tank and some domestic animals. Going for a raised country road with a pasture.

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Edited by Soeren
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Of course I don't love them ;) .

I wonder why they do them like they do. To slot them into the links. By this you still have to sand down the sprue gate remains to make them fit properly. And it still is no guarantee to get them properly seated. And you get a seam on the inside. Not so good for the spare links hung from the hull. I would say Dragons approach is more useful here.

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Hey Simon. These won't be real Dioramas. It's just the nearest picture frame size that allows to add a bit of scenery. And as long as you don't park your models like in the Bovington conservation area ;) you take some space anyways. 

It takes some additional time and resources, although the picture frames were on sale for 2€ each at the local hardware store so I bought a few for various projects. And I found that the recent models treated like this I pay more attention to them and enjoy them more compared to the just stacked "finished" models.

Edited by Soeren
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Nah.......still too big for my space allotted at present 😖😖😖😖.

 

Although I am lobbying for a specific cabinet to at least put them in a dust free zone......fingers crossed......something like this

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/vitrines-7-reglables-pour-collectionneurs-vitrine-en-verre/133016530097

 

I might be able to some small vignettes for each shelf, made to fit for multiple Afv’s

 

Fingers crossed 

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Hey there. Some more done. Gave the inside wheels some mig damp earth treatment and the upper hull was treated with some abtl 502 light sand and faded white oils for more highlight's and modulation in the yellow tones.spacer.png

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On ‎4‎/‎8‎/‎2018 at 10:28 AM, Soeren said:

One thing to be aware of. Dont glue the two halves together before adding the tools. What Dragon doesnt show in the manual, you have to drill all the locations from the inside. Well, Panther fans can do without, but it would have been a bit easier.

just a little tip for this situation...because the holes have locating spots inside the tank that are pre drilled slightly, the plastic is much thinner...take a bright light and shine it through the turret hole...due to the plastic in the hole locations being thinner you will be able to see the light bleed through in those spots, giving you a very good indication of where to drill if having to go from the exterior...ask me how I know lol. gotta say that in a pinch this little trick works like a charm. 

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Hey there dear people. In between building the Meng Jangdpanther tracks I worked a bit on the base.

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And did the steel sections on the wheels. First did a lot of sponge chipping on all the sections meant for bare metal treatment with Vallejo German Camo Black Brown. Then went for MR Hobby Dark Metal burnishable color on the Idlers and sprockets. The rims of the wheels were done in VMS enamel fixer with AK Dark Steel pigments. It dries dark grey and then can be burnished to a dantastic metal sheen as far as you like. It contains some texture and looks much smoother grain wise than any metallic paint I have seen so far. I would say this looks a lot more natural.

 

Two angles to get the look. Tell me what you think.

 

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Good evening, taking my time, not rushing it. Have now added some miscelaneous parts from my stash and setting the scene.

I really have to see how to actually complete the scenery. Who ever came up with this camo interpretation. 😖

 

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Hey, hey, still going on with cleaning up of the track links. Tedious action. So went on with painting the base now. Well, Vallejo flat earth and Hemp get it a bit more ochre than expected. Gave the tank a dust coat of that as well. One thing to note. I used Tamiya panel liner on the engine deck now for some stains. Luckily very thin. But I wasnt able to clean this up with any of my enamel or odourless thinners after application. Do I need the Tamiya thinners?

 

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Edited by Soeren
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Hey there, while still celaning up those track links I did some more on the scene. Gras, stuff and some testing of earth products and the tank block just done with various pigments mixed on a dark red brown acrylic basecoat. Not too unhappy with the result so far.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Howdy, hobby time is leisure time. So took my time. Work on the track was quite tedious, still made it and have one stretch done with the aid of VMS slow cement. Worked fantastic. The tracks are nicely detailed, but the guide horns are very tight on the inner wheels, may be you have to really squeeze those wheels during building, sot they end up narrow enough.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Hey there, the weather is too nice to actually do a lot of modelling atm. Still, went ahead with the tracks and gave them some paint and dirt. Tried a different approach. Track Primer followed by metallic paint airbrushed on. Then some Vallejo Rust paint with Washable agent to reveal the metallic paint underneath, then dry brushing with Mr color Black Iron.

 

The dirt is VMS ligth EU Earth with fine texture in VMS Alkyd binder, then rubbed off with a stiff brush revealing some pilished sheen of the metal.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hey there, this last projext is already taking much too long for just an interim build. Went ahead with the figures and tried to paint them fast. So gave them a dark green basecoat, some 45 degree to top down highlights, washed with army painter washes and then just drybrushed. That is the Tamiya figures from left 1, 3 and 4. The dragon figure was base coated the same but then 2 shades of highlights painted and finished with a super highlight dry brushing followed by the washes. Some of the details were then picked out with some fine line wash added. Now off to details and doing the skin parts.

 

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Went ahead with some finishing touches on the figures. Note to myself: Better cleanup. Still, wont be visible too much when observed from regular view distance and shall give a nice touch to the overall tank setting. Two more to go.

 

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