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Avro 504K, 1/32, Scratchbuild


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All those extra details add a great deal to the finished model. Funny how they suddenly appear just when you think that the painting stage has arrived!

 

Looking really good and the paint will certainly enhance what is already an excellent model.

 

P

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  • 3 weeks later...

My Demanding Public

 

Fame is difficult thing sometimes. I enjoy the adulation of being 'Bandsaw Steve' and revel in the sure knowledge that my name and work will live on in much the same way that Shakespeare's, Leonardo's or Elvis's has. However, I must admit  I sometimes find my fan's demands trying... 😟

 

Take @hendie for example, who just today was posting pictures of a kitten 'cleaning up' since to his mind 'no work seems to be getting done here',  or take post #378 by @Matt_ (on this very thread) where he stated 'I'm interested to see how you lace up the belly'.  This, in effect committed me to a campaign of detailed stitching work on my Avro - whether I wanted it or not!  I suspect Michelangelo felt similar pressure with a Pope breathing down his neck as he painted the Sistine chapel.

 

hsLI2cM.jpg

Yes these are the calls from my public,  from my fan base; a fickle and demanding group of uncounted numbers (perhaps as many as zero!) who seem to demand ever more from the very quick of my creative core... 😰

 

Here's how I first thought I might do the stitching.  I went and bought a set of pinking shears. '  Pinking shears - as you can see - cut a zig-zag pattern. This is intended to stop fabric from fraying after being cut, however I thought it might be useful for cutting a fine zig-zag of masking tape that could then be stuck onto the airframe to simulate stitching.  

ZAJqfIg.jpg

 

This was a bit like communism.  A good theory, but unworkable in reality.  As you can see, both the zig and the zag were far too large and I knew that there was no way that Matt would let me off with this.

Oc2vg4Q.jpg

 

I considered numerous alternatives - including ripping the family toaster apart to retrieve the zig-zaggy little elements within, but due to some sort of difficult-to-understand thought process, my beloved objected to this excellent plan.

I was considering giving up and not adding any lacing but Matt's words kept ringing in my ears...

 

'I'm interested to see how you lace the belly...

I'm interested to see how you lace the belly...

I'm interested to see how you lace the belly...'

 

 What to do? What to do?

 

Then, while scrabbling around in around my assorted model-building gear box looking for inspiration, I found this thing - a riveting tool - and I had a riveting idea!

zlYvgqx.jpg

 

Run the tool along the edge of a bit of very thin plastic sheeting...

RFqSkuk.jpg

 

Turn the sheeting over and then you will see, instead of the perfect little line of dents the tool makes on the top of the sheet, a perfect line of little bumps on the bottom.  

Zeu4DPB.jpg

 

Please note that if you have bumps on your bottom I would prefer if you don't write in to tell us.

Anyhow,  after cutting off a very thin - let's say 2.5mm - strip off the edge of the plastic sheet I had a bumpy strip of plastic that could glued onto the aircraft to represent a line of stitching.

ET8hroD.jpg

 

In this view you can see the 3D effect, which although not exactly accurate does sort-of convey the impression. Sort of.

vY1Fh7y.jpg

 

It looks quite severe at this point but I think once the airframe is painted it will look OK.  

lvy3BDf.jpg

 

And that's about it for now. 

Hopefully my public's appetite for scratch-building action is sated and I will have a chance to have a short break from the maddening crowds of fans that don't seem to follow me wherever I go.

 

Bandsaw Steve

 

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took me a little while to get through the cobwebs but I got there in the end.  You really should pay more attention to your housekeeping Steve.

 

Nice little update there.  You could always cut back the rivet-thread with a gentle micromesh if so desired.

 

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

The Avro gets a bit horny.

 

Before the days of 'fly-by-wire' people used to control their aircraft using wires. 🤔  

 

In early aircraft, such as the Avro 504, these wires - more correctly called control lines -  would often operate on the control surface externally by means of pulling on a lever attached to the articulated surface.  These levers would stick out a bit and so were termed 'control horns'.  In this update our little Avro 504 is going to get outfitted with a full set of such horns - some on it's ailerons, elevators and rudder. 📯

 

The horns in this instance are to be cut from a sheet of aluminium lithoplate.  I've mentioned it elsewhere - during the Carpathia build I think - that this lithoplate stuff is exceptionally useful. it's got just the right combination of strength, cutability and workability for all kinds of applications.  So far the only drawback I've found is that you cannot solder it, but that doesn't matter because two-part epoxy works beautifully with it.

 

The process is just a repeat of my basic 'modus-operandi'.  Start by sticking on a paper pattern...

HEPKgXW.jpg

 

and then cut it out with tin snips or scissors.  Drill some holes in the correct spot for some control lines to pass though. 

Mo7n65k.jpg

 

Drill a fine guide hole into the airframe at the required location.

ypA4AGW.jpg

 

Use a jeweller's saw to cut a slot into which the horn will sit.

kviSi3n.jpg

 

Fit the control horn into the slot and hold it permanently in place with some two-part araldite.

WSdZJ04.jpg

 

Repeat the process on the rudder...

xpJ7Bm6.jpg

 

and on the elevators.

gUe9C7u.jpg

 

Here they go in place and looking OK. There is, of course, two more control horns on the aircraft, but they are on the top wing and are not shown in this photo.

QaqBEMg.jpg

 

There  you go... One horny Avro 504.  We are now very, very close to the last prime and the first spray of final paint colour - perhaps that's what's getting it all excited. :shocked: 

 

Bandsaw Steve

 

 

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Brass Tacks

 

Not quite painting time yet folks.  There's still a handful of details to add before charging up the airbrush and making a complete mess of the project.  By some coincidence, or perhaps just because we are starting to deal with some really quite small details, all of the jobs in this post use some very fine brass pins.  I picked up a bag of a couple of hundred of these on a whim a couple of years ago while trolling around a jewellery and beading supplies store.  I had no real idea what I intended to use them for at the time but I thought I looked like they could be useful and I have used them on many occasions ever since.  

 

First we have to add the frames that the windshields will be attached to.  The process is pretty self-explanatory, work out where the frame needs to go and mark off and cut out the bits of wood for the housing - if that's the correct term - that the windshield will rest on.

DfB7ifs.jpg

 

Sand the little bits to the correct contour so that they will sit snuggly onto the top deck of the fuselage.

Y7HjpcU.jpg

 

Glue them into place with a bit of PVA and then drill three holes.  Stick a brass pin - cut very short - through the middle hole to act as a tack to help hold the thing in place.

yAa1KXM.jpg

 

Stick some other brass pins on either side of each housing. These now form the metal uprights onto which the glass windscreens will be attached when the time comes.

6yLsZH1.jpg

 

Now add some sway braces to the fuel tank. Currently it's stuck on the top centre of the upper wing with just two thin vertical tubes and it looks a bit unrealistic and isn't that firmly attached. Drill four holes at consistent angles as shown through the underside of the wing and up into the fuel tank.  Insert some brass pins as shown and hold them in place with two-part araldite. Trim off the massive surplus lengths of each brass pin and sand the stubs down smooth.

V24ChZC.jpg

 

From above we can now see four little sway braces holding the fuel tank in place. It's much more secure than before and looks much more convincing.

PZ71PCL.jpg

 

Oh yes - and there needs to be a hook added as well. I suspect this was used for suspending the aircraft during maintenance and perhaps for checking the C.O.G. 

dM1AcfP.jpg

 

So there we go, getting right down to brass tacks now - well pins really- each one costing no more than a couple of cents and very useful in its own way.

 

What I have not shown you in this post is how I added some - not very convincing - aircrew footholds onto the port side of the aircraft, just to the rear of the instructor's cockpit.  I say not very convincing because I noticed them too late - they should have been drilled out and dealt with months ago - and so they have been added as surface detail only. I would put a picture in for your perusal but I don't seem to any photos that show them yet.  Maybe next time, or maybe not. Depends how ashamed I am of this slipshod work.

 

Next time I'm going to be drilling lots and lots of holes, and then it's the final primer and start painting. 😱

 

Bandsaw Steve

 

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As far as I know the "hook" is a vent to allow air in and out. Without it you'd get a vacuum as fuel was used, leading to fuel starvation. It's curved to stop rain etc getting in. The Ilya Muromets tanks also have them.

 

Hope that helps!

 

Ian

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The little details are making all the difference Steve.

1 hour ago, Bandsaw Steve said:

I picked up a bag of a couple of hundred of these on a whim a couple of years ago while trolling around a jewellery and beading supplies store.

Maybe you got them as a fall-back position if building models didn't work out...:rofl:.

 

Stuart

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Getting close now!

 

I am getting close to two critical parts of this build; painting it and sticking the top wing on.  Neither are likely to be easy and both, I believe, will test my skills rather severely.

 

The whole 'biplane' thing is fairly new to me (I've done one or two kitsets but that's about it) so I'm not entirely comfortable with how to attach the top wing and do all of those struts and so forth. So I've been doing a bit of testing regarding how to go about this. The most successful test is shown below.  Here some magnetic Formica (a thin metal sheet with Formica bonded on either side) has been chosen as the material to make the struts from and a sheet of plywood simulates one of the wings - it doesn't really matter which one.  A couple of slots have been cut into the plywood and the struts glued into place. Note the outrageous 'leaning forward' raking angle on each strut, that's kept me awake at night.

Rq6GnCY.jpg

 

This approach seems to work OK, although the Formica is very hard to sand to shape where it sticks above the top wing and below the bottom wing, so in the final case I might replace it with some thin strips of hardwood so that I can ensure smooth final surfaces.

QCOviOW.jpg

 

So with the basic method of attachment decided on, I can get cracking. First mark up the locations of each strut position as carefully as possible.

K8u8af2.jpg

 

Drill a hole at the marked point.

CghRqPl.jpg

 

In fact drill a pair of holes at the attachment point (top and bottom wing) of each strut. 

WQkyOPL.jpg

 

Now - using a very fine jeweller's saw - complete the slot between each pair of holes - make the slot the correct thickness to ensure a tight friction fit. Glue will be needed for these struts but I want to use the smallest amount possible.

HA8BAk0.jpg

 

While we are here and have the Dremel handy we might as well drill some very fine holes at the strategic locations where the rigging will be anchored.

jodlQbu.jpg

 

And whack some holes in where these 'bonging hoops' must go. 'Bonging hoops' because they stop the wing tips bonging the ground. 

RXVZnKz.jpg

 

And now - except for the fact that some masking must go back over those central struts - we are ready to prime.  The main reason I put this photo in is because in the foreground you can see a hardwood strut dry fitted into it's intended final position.  About 30 minutes after this photo the final prime was completed and touch dry.

1blYWsH.jpg

 

Here's what it looks like after the primer with all of the completed parts dry-fitted together for a preview.  There's still priming needed on the undercarriage and so-forth, but the main airframe is now ready for paint!  The stitching looks a lot better now that it's blended into the background.

p6fqYfT.jpg

 

Here's what she looks like from ahead.

6PIJi4i.jpg

 

and behind,

4Js726G.jpg

 

and here's the overview complete with the top wing standing by - ready for paint.

ty5nXa3.jpg

 

So that's what I've been up to this week. Drilling lot's of holes and spraying some primer.

Expect some procrastination before a proper painting update. I'm not very brave with an airbrush. 😨

 

Best Regards,

Bandsaw Steve.

 

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Remarkable work Steve. I tend to use brass rod covered in 10 thou plastic card for my struts. I’ll then usually do the interplane struts first, align the whole thing ( using the cardboard box method, must post a photo) then size and fit the cabane struts. WRT rigging I normally use homemade eyelets which I have learned ( the hard way) are better attached before the upper wing is attached. ( this is why my Bristol bulldog has been nearly finished for months now, sigh)

Edited by Marklo
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