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1/12 scale Kremer K3 Porsche 935


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  • 3 weeks later...

Today i finished all the bodywork changes.Hope so?
Some shots of primer and tomorrow the rest.Will show some pics when its done.

In the meantime i started with the tires.
The tamiya 935 used the same tire size like the Kremer K3.So i started with them but they are very thin and wobbly.
I made an inner spacer to get more strength in it.

 

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Thats how it looked mounted.

 

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Should be hard enough for casting.

 

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The mold is half filled with the tires.The rest will be cast.

 

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Some layers silicone was added.

 

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Now are both half sides cast and the rest will follow tomorrow.

regards  Christian

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  • 2 weeks later...

Next step was the master model preparation.
I used some nitro putty for the fine details and started with the plate for casting.

 

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Nest was closing all holes and windows.I used some plastic card for it.

 

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On the inside i used some way sheets to get an thicker wall for casting and more stability.Its always hard to find the best solution for a light body and a good flow for the resin.
Will see how this works at the end.

 

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Thats all right now.
regards Christian

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The "interior " is ready for casting now.
I got some massive edges at the rear wheel arches.I need them for the casting.But at the end they have to be removed from the resin model.Donk know how i could make it better.Cant find a better solution.
Anybody got a idea to avoid this?
Otherwise i want to cast it this weekend.Silicon and Vaseline is here.Only need to find some hours time for it.

 

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Here you can see the massive part which is closed with blue plasticine.

 

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Somebody could help with these problem?

regards Christian

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I have no idea how this all works, so forgive me for not offering any advice and just being very curious. I hope you'll be able to post some pics of the process, I'm interested.

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I have little direct experience of this Christian (my Dad used to mould fibreglass model yacht shells) but it seems to me that you need to either:

1) have the undercut section of the plug removable before the casting is taken out of the mold or

2) make the casting in 2 pieces which can be joined by the modeller.

 

Option 1 would be my intuitive route. It's a bit like how Hercules molded the first McLaren F1 carbon fibre monocoques. The (male) mold was formed of a number of pieces bolted together, which were then unbolted and removed through the seat aperture one by one when the shell had been made around them. I'm thinking that perhaps you can have a near-rectangular block aligned with the rear axle line (an "axle block") which could be removed allowing the section behind this to be removed by (gently) pulling it towards the cockpit section. Perhaps it is possible to do the front in the same way? You'd have to  be quite clever in how these male parts joined together during molding… Captive nuts in the rear/middle section and removable bolts in the "axle block"? (If this makes no sense, I can draw a sketch.)

 

Option 3: 3-D printing???? This method uses wax I believe to support undercuts, but I suspect is too expensive and not smooth enough.

 

I hope this at least gives you inspiration for a workable solution. :) 

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Nice work on this one, almost missed it. As to the question... keep these as a separate cast? Just to glue in place as an insert (1 left and 1 right?) Only thing to do is to cut them on a place where it is easy to sand, and adding some locater tabs...

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@Kirk: Your solution nr. 1 will be my choice.

Will take some pics when i am at this stage.

 

Now comes all together.
The body is ready for the silicone.The silicone needs some temperature before casting and the body needs some time to drying because of the Vaseline.
Patience is not my strongest thing. 

 

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But tomorrow it should start.

regards Christian

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I'm very glad you have a plan now Christian and am looking forward to seeing how it all works. It occurred to me that it would be a good idea for the axle section to be trapezoid in profile (fat end at the bottom, obviously) to make sure the pieces will come apart.

 

Is Vaseline your release agent for the silicon? I seem to recall that my dad used some form of wax for the fibreglass shells. There was an infamous incident when he changed brand/type of wax and the shell wouldn't come out of the mold without damage to both. I learned lots of new words that day I think. :rant::D

 

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Many thanks for your interest here. 

Its the first time I used the Vaseline. But I got no fear that the silicone can't be removed from the mold. Worked fine with the last molds without any release agents. It's something different when you have silicone on silicone. Than you need it if course. 

I made the wood frame in 4 pieces who can still be removed. That should help to get the silicone out of the mold. But first after the inner core was made. 

Think fiberglass is way different. There is a wax or other release agent a must. 

Started with molding today. Need 3 or 4 steps to provide airbubbles in the front lights section and at the back. 

When I am back home this evening I will cast the rest. 

Regards Christian 

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starting with the mold now.....

 

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All parts are ready now.The silicone got the right temperature and all other stuff is in reach.

 

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First layer silicone was done with a pencil to avoid air bubbles and to secure i got all details right.

 

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Than i filled the deeper holes with silicone so there should no bubbles under the body parts.

 

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Now all is ready for filling it from above.

 

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Nearly 4kg silicone later its done.Next step will be the inside of the body.
regards Christian

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Here it is,partially.

 

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The bottom was removed:You can see that the silicone looks good.

 

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The white plastic sheet was removed from the windows.That was something i feared a bit.But it was easy and with some fine work it will be ok.

 

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The grey ureol piece will be placed into the mold to save some resin.
Will use two wooden bridges and hang them into the mold from above.

Looks good so far.The windows are open now and i moved a bit step forward.
regards  Christian

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Pictures tell more than my basic english. 
Last part of making the mold.

 

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Inner core was cast with resin.

 

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Thats how it looks when its pulled out of the mold.

 

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Take a closer look into the silicone mold.

 

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Think its looking really good.I am happy with it.

 

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Thats how the inner core look like.Ugly and rough.But at the end i will invest some time for smoothing it.

 

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Cut the rear end of and sanding the cut.

 

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Here is my guidance( dont know how to say "schwalbenschwanz-führung" in english) for both parts.

 

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Ready for casting now.

 

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Thats it.Have to wait until its hard and than i start with smoothing the inner core.

regards Christian

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1 hour ago, capri-schorsch said:

 

Here is my guidance( dont know how to say "schwalbenschwanz-führung" in english) for both parts

 

I believe it is a dovetail joint mate. Lovely work once again! 

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Nice undercuts on the back of the mould. I guess when you mould production castings you will remove the front of the casting first, and then very gently release the back end. Lots of potential for mould breakage there!

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First body was cast today.

 

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The inner core was sanded a bit.Not too much,just right for casting.

 

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First step is to lay the smaller part into to mold and than the bigger one.I  secured it with the screws.

 

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Just made the first body.I needed 600g Resin for it and hope all smaller parts are filled with resin without big air bubble.
Need to cure until tomorrow now.Its saver when its getting hard overnight to avoid bending.

regards  Christian

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something to show for you

 

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worked very well and i am happy with the result.No big air bubbles.Looking very good.
Only i have to be careful when i remove the inner core.The part from the roof to the rear wing is broken.But i will use a different way the next time.Should work better with more care.

regards Christian

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