Bozothenutter Posted March 26, 2018 Share Posted March 26, 2018 (edited) Well I'll give this WIP thing another try..... Not an AFV builder at all really (last one I did was the Tamiya Tiger I 30 years ago) But a mate who is into tanks got me interested and the I saw the Takom 2047 at the lhs and next I was outside with that big box! A period of research followed/ continues, but my inspiration is Liejon Schoot's awesome build of the Trumpy 1/16 kit. I'm really hoping i'll push trough with this one, as i'm prone to getting stuck on details, and chasing my tails in research.... This means I jump about on subassemblies for the most part, modding anything that takes my fancy. some random stuff I have done so far, as i'm a random person... AAggghhhh...google photo's won't play nice...postimage it is.... tbc Edited March 28, 2018 by Bozothenutter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bozothenutter Posted March 26, 2018 Author Share Posted March 26, 2018 (edited) Ok here goes... The firewall looked too flat (2D) to me The thingy on the right will be a spare periscope holder. the sidewall I cut the periscope holders off of (and other bits too). I noticed that the on the real tanks the lozenge shaped bits seem to be spaced a little from the wall.....so might cut them off or groove them. Some of the stuff (Alot actually) i'm using if from my car building days. These will go (with some modification) on the fire wall as the fuel lines. Removed the hull roof (Liejon Schoot influence here). Also removed the toothed ring, as that is supposed to go in the turret. Said ring and turret floor One of the crazy bits....the bump stops...cut them from the hull (three with a chisel blade, one by patiently grooving around it) and then started modding....a part that won't even be seen. Edited March 26, 2018 by Bozothenutter 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bozothenutter Posted March 27, 2018 Author Share Posted March 27, 2018 Ordered some some stuff from Jadar and Sockelshop..... Sockelshop ordered this monday, recieved today! Jadar ordered 10 days ago......nothing Googling shows you have to be patient.... Master Club castellated nuts are the dogs danglies though! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soeren Posted March 27, 2018 Share Posted March 27, 2018 (edited) That is funny be great Sockelshop is a nice shop. Great sortiment, very fast delivery. You got the Masterclub metal tracks? Edited March 27, 2018 by Soeren Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackMax12 Posted March 27, 2018 Share Posted March 27, 2018 Looks like you have quite the project going and it looks pretty good so far. I tried one of these Takom King Tigers (kit 2045) a while back and spent quite a bit of time on the interior so it looked pretty decent. Then I found out I couldn't get the upper hull to fit, with all of the engine compartment bulkheads in place it just would not fit down into place. I carved a bit, sanded a bit, swore a bit, and finally consigned it to the big blue bin. I have built quite a few Takom kits and that is the only one I've ever had a problem with, probably my fault though as there's quite a bit of play in the fits of all the interior, especially at the rear. So trial fit and trial fit again before you touch the glue. Just my $0.02. Take care, Lloyd 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bozothenutter Posted March 28, 2018 Author Share Posted March 28, 2018 Not really progress, just making... Attempt 4 at the spare periscope holders (after I found drawings on the Meng AFV Modeler forum) Grooving will do, no need to go ott....😁 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bozothenutter Posted March 29, 2018 Author Share Posted March 29, 2018 (edited) A question for future reference I´m thinking of doing the non zimmeritt surfaces with an enamel red oxide primer and then switching to acrylics. the idea being enamels being ´harder´ so more resistant to weathering techniques. just thought of something...could do the same with the interior, an enamel parkerized finish followed by acrylic oxidrot, followed by elfenbein any problems with that idea Edited March 29, 2018 by Bozothenutter 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bozothenutter Posted April 12, 2018 Author Share Posted April 12, 2018 (edited) postimage problems.... tiny update: corrections to thelocation of the coolant drain hatch and corrections to the diameter of the hull bottom aswell. the bolts holding the hatches on were hanging in thin air basically..... Edited April 12, 2018 by Bozothenutter 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bozothenutter Posted May 23, 2018 Author Share Posted May 23, 2018 Been doing stuff, really I have! built myself a resistance solderer: increased the height of the floor vent tubes added some nuts while there.... been messing with the RSU , getting a feel for it, the Aber MG34 ammo boxes are REALLY small! 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrancisGL Posted May 25, 2018 Share Posted May 25, 2018 Great scratching job!, nice progress... Cheers mate Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redcoat2966 Posted May 25, 2018 Share Posted May 25, 2018 I've decided I have to put a Tiger of some form on my build list......looking forward to watching this develop and I hope give me some ideas for the future...nice start..... Simon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bozothenutter Posted May 26, 2018 Author Share Posted May 26, 2018 16 hours ago, Redcoat2966 said: I've decided I have to put a Tiger of some form on my build list......looking forward to watching this develop and I hope give me some ideas for the future...nice start..... Simon. have a look at this 1/16 build mate....i'm using this as reference it's that good! https://public.fotki.com/Liejon/scale-modelling/armour/116/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bozothenutter Posted May 26, 2018 Author Share Posted May 26, 2018 found a bit of time yesterday... masterclub castellated nuts with washer... need to find a better way of removing the torsionbar end holders though... maybe an exacto chisel blade and a small hammer? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bozothenutter Posted May 27, 2018 Author Share Posted May 27, 2018 the final drive lube point, resit nut by calibre 35 (I think) apologies for tha potato quality.....zoomed in phone pic. and where it'll go... god these closeups make stuff look horrible......😂 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bozothenutter Posted May 28, 2018 Author Share Posted May 28, 2018 much better way of removing the lozenge shaped torsionbar holders..... just a tap with a hammer and it's a clean cut! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bozothenutter Posted May 30, 2018 Author Share Posted May 30, 2018 No pics (yet), but was going to scratchbuild the right front damper, as i didn't like the part being cast with lever and shield in place. Luckily I noticed Takom provide 2 dampers and levers each on two identical sprues, so saved me a bit of work there! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bozothenutter Posted June 12, 2018 Author Share Posted June 12, 2018 (edited) Tiny updates.. Brakes and housings modded compared to standard (bolts are a little oversized) 0.4mm boltheads in alu from my car building days.... Edited June 12, 2018 by Bozothenutter 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bozothenutter Posted June 12, 2018 Author Share Posted June 12, 2018 These http://www.rbmotion.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=79&product_id=108 Or these http://www.rbmotion.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=96&product_id=89 as Grease nippels ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silenoz Posted June 12, 2018 Share Posted June 12, 2018 That is surely walking the extra mile... nice work 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bozothenutter Posted June 20, 2018 Author Share Posted June 20, 2018 more small smallness... I was working on the right fron shock when I noticed this... Ignore the phone shot of an ipad , and the ipad holder....the king on the lever arem is upside down in the kit.... so this happenend... improved the torsion bar end while I was there...... btw, this is the shock: and maybe I should see a doctor, i'm 'improving' 1.6mm nuts from masterclub......nuts.... the next get the centre hole drilled with a 0.3mm drill...0.5 was too big.... And to prove actual progress is being made.... 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bozothenutter Posted August 9, 2018 Author Share Posted August 9, 2018 (edited) Been off on holiday for a bit, and VERY busy with life the universe and everything... just a small update: Notice how the bolts rest against te rim for locking? on the kit part they are centered on the rim...time to fix stuff! Teeth seem to be a bit short aswell...... Had a big load of Masterclub nuts and bolts left. used a 0.8mm (head size of the MC bolt) drill to create a dimple, then drilled with the necessary 0.6mm drill. I drilled straight through so I could add nuts to the backside. work underway, I shortened the bolts so I could add the nuts in the same hole. The almost finished item, an improvement to the kit part still on the sprue. Now for those teeth......... Edited August 9, 2018 by Bozothenutter 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingsman Posted August 9, 2018 Share Posted August 9, 2018 On 6/12/2018 at 1:57 PM, Silenoz said: That is surely walking the extra mile... nice work One extra mile? I'm hearing a pair of Scots singing something about 500 extra miles......! This has all the indications of being an epic build. Any chance you could, for us uninitiated, explain how a resistance solderer works and what you used to build it? I've never been much good at soldering. No Maplins to go to with a parts list now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silenoz Posted August 9, 2018 Share Posted August 9, 2018 Basics are clean soldering surfaces, so first clean the PE with a glasfibre pencil or fine sanding paper. Apply just tiny bits of solder, I use 0.8mm wire that I squeeze flat and then cut small pieces from it. Then I'll mate the joining surfaces together. I apply some flux (with an old brush) in the seam to be connected and divide some of the bits of solder over the length. Then it's only applying the heat to make solder flow. Be sure to heat both parts at once, and also the length of the seam if it's long. When the flux has evaporated, you can always add new. This is a Part cupolla from a SD.kfz140/1 in 1/72 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bozothenutter Posted August 9, 2018 Author Share Posted August 9, 2018 (edited) 3 hours ago, Das Abteilung said: One extra mile? I'm hearing a pair of Scots singing something about 500 extra miles......! This has all the indications of being an epic build. Any chance you could, for us uninitiated, explain how a resistance solderer works and what you used to build it? I've never been much good at soldering. No Maplins to go to with a parts list now. Thanks for the plaudits, but for me a build can only be epic if it is finished. But motivation is still very high and it is probably the most researched type in history, so forcasts are good! the resistance solderer is basically a spotwelder with less power. It works on the principle that temperature rises in the spot of most resistance, the tip of the probe being just that. basically you just put the PE parts together (magnets are usefull as extra hands). flatten a bit of solder with some pliers cut off a sliver of that. lightly sand/clean the soldering surfaces. add flux and sliver of solder. put second piece on top, in contact etc. put probe on second piece where the solder is. push pedal for a sec (this needs some practice with voltages etc, push the pedal too long and the tip starts glowing end melting your workpiece) see magic happen! release pedal (very important, releasing the probe with the pedal on creates lightning!....and holes in workpiece) release probe burn fingers on workpiece be very self satiesfied..... The transformer is a 10A one with several available voltages all the other bits are off the shelf items aswell: - lab connectors male/female - 10A capable wire - footswitch on/off - steel ground plate i'm still looking for a nice housing to put it all in. the probe was self made from a useless 15W sordering iron for the handle , a pin vise, more wire, and refillable pencillead of 3.2mm as the electrode. the pinvise allows me to change thickness of electrode for access or temp/power purposes. For solder i use anything I have to hand, still trying to find a good source of liquid solder. (i'm actually thinking of ditching the handle and just use a bit of foam around the pinvise, this would make it more pen-like) Or buy the thing form London Road models or American Beauty Edited August 9, 2018 by Bozothenutter added hyperlinks to parts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingsman Posted August 9, 2018 Share Posted August 9, 2018 Thank you for the detailed explanation and instructions. I might have to give one of those a go. As I said, my soldering skill is sadly lacking (keeping giving trying up doesn't help!!), even having invested in a variable-temperature iron and several fluxes and solders - including some tubs of tiny solder balls analogous to your cut pieces. But then again I'm fed up with using cyano too............ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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