Badger 200 - Airflow Question

[nheather]

I found my old (and I mean old - think I got in in 1984) but little used Badger 200.

 

I disassembled it, gave it a good clean, polished the needle, lubed in all the right places, clacked everything was clear and clean and reassembled making sure it was airtight.

 

One thing I noticed is that the airflow is only a fraction (maybe 50%) as from my Iwata Eclipse at the same pressure.  Tried my other airbrushes, another Iwata and a cheap Chinese clone and they all had significantly higher airflow than my Badger.

 

Is this to be expected - it is so long since I used it that I don't know what to expect - whether this is normal or whether I have a blockage somewhere.

 

I remember a long time ago I had a problem with the air valve - it wasn't shutting off - I found the o-ring had come off the plunger, so I pushed it back on and it stayed on.

 

Cheers,

 

Nigel

Edited March 24, 2018 by nheather

[cmatthewbacon]

That was my experience as well. I don’t think there’s anything wrong with the Badger, the Eclipse is just a much more up to date (and premium) design...

 

There’s a big variation between airbrushes, which is why I never pay much attention to “what psi do you spray at from what distance?” discussions.

best,

M.

[nheather]

23 minutes ago, cmatthewbacon said:

That was my experience as well. I don’t think there’s anything wrong with the Badger, the Eclipse is just a much more up to date (and premium) design...

 

There’s a big variation between airbrushes, which is why I never pay much attention to “what psi do you spray at from what distance?” discussions.

best,

M.

I'm just considering my old Badger to put down primer and varnish coats.

 

I have an Iwata Eclipse CS with both 0.35mm and 0.5mm parts with the idea that I would swap it over to 0.5mm when I wanted to spray primer, varnish or heavy stuff.

 

I have only really started to play with my airbrushes - I have some Stynylrez primer, tried it thinned a little through my 0.35mm Eclipse but I found it clogged frequently.  Switched the Eclipse over to 0.5mm and it was fine but I decided that I didn't like the idea of swapping the Eclipse about so looking at a dedicated 0.5mm.

 

Been looking at the cheaper end Sparmax and Iwata Neo (I don't rate the Chinese clones) but a member here suggested a Badger 200 and I remember I had one tucked away from my childhood days.

 

I suppose I would spray the primer at 2 Bar and a few inches to get some decent coverage width.

 

Cheers,

 

Nigel

[nheather]

Getting a little more puzzling.

 

I tried it this morning with mixed results - I was spraying thinned down stnylrez grey primer.

 

1 - I had to put the compressor up to 40 psi to get a spray that I would expect from 10-15 PSI with my Iwata Eclipse

2 - Even with that I only got a light and narrow spray

3 - The spray I did get was very nice and even

 

But then I gave it an initial clean and then tried to spray some airbrush cleaner through it - nothing, would not siphon up the cleaner.  I felt the spray on my hand and there was barely anything there.  I removed the head/tip assembly (it is the old style 200 where this is a single unit) and sprayed on my hand.  I noticed I was getting a much more airflow onto my hand.  Replaced the head/tip and nothing.  So thinking that the three air holes in the head/tip might be blocked I ran an interdental brush through each but they were clear.  Put the head/tip back on - still no flow.  Tried the brush at different angles and all of a sudden the airbrush started blowing air.

 

Any ideas?

 

I have two concerns

 

1 - that even when working the airflow seems low even when compressor is set to 40 PSI

2 - the episode where there was no air with the head/tip in place but air when not in place.  Couldn't see any problem and then it started working again.

 

Cheers,

 

Nigel

[LotusArenco]

11 minutes ago, nheather said:

I was spraying thinned down stnylrez grey primer.

 

1 - I had to put the compressor up to 40 psi

Naah mate… somethings wrong there?

 

With my 200 I’m spraying neat Stynylrez at less than half that pressure. Mind you, that’s with a gravity fed one. Have another look at the valve perhaps?

It’ll be a shame to not get it working well, although an old brush they are great little workhorses.

 

Mart

[nheather]

I've just noticed it is missing the PTFE Needle Bearing 50-046 I wonder if that is the cause?

 

Thinking that the head/tip is tightening up too much so limiting the airflow between the body and the head.

 

Cheers,

 

Nigel

[LotusArenco]

Possibly, but as far as I know that bearing shouldn’t have too much of an impact on air pressure.

£3.90 at Barwell Bodyworks for a replacement.https://barwellbodyworks-shop.com/204-200-old-style

Or it might be worth giving them a bell for any advice?

 

Mart

[Steve Noble]

Stupid question but have you held the tip assembly up to the light to see if you can see daylight through the tip? When I used to use the 200 it was always clogging in the tip and I had to put a tip reamer through it to clear all the dried paint. That or the Teflon needle bearing kept needing replacing. Two reasons why I binned mine and switched to Tamiya, Iwata and other brands of brush

[nheather]

2 hours ago, LotusArenco said:

Possibly, but as far as I know that bearing shouldn’t have too much of an impact on air pressure.

£3.90 at Barwell Bodyworks for a replacement.https://barwellbodyworks-shop.com/204-200-old-style

Or it might be worth giving them a bell for any advice?

 

Mart

 

Thanks, ordered one from them this morning as soon as I spotted it missing.  I too can’t see how it would have that much effect apart from 

 

(a) it might force a slught gap between the head on the body allow air to from from the body channel into the head channels - without it maybe the head is clamping down and sealing the body channel

 

(b) with the bearing missing the air is flowing back down the need cavity rather than out of the head.

 

I’ll report back whether it makes any difference - probably mid week.

 

cheers,

 

Nigel

[janneman36]

What kind of tip is on your 200, it can be the F (fine tip) the M (medium tip) or the L( large tip)

The old ones like yours should have it stanced in the tip side  in L,M or F 

A wear and tear of the trigger and pin of the air valve  can also result in pressure loss..

Cheers, Jan

Edited March 25, 2018 by janneman36

[nheather]

3 hours ago, janneman36 said:

What kind of tip is on your 200, it can be the F (fine tip) the M (medium tip) or the L( large tip)

The old ones like yours should have it stanced in the tip side  in L,M or F 

A wear and tear of the trigger and pin of the air valve  can also result in pressure loss..

Cheers, Jan

It’s a Medium.

 

I’ll wait and see whether the needle bearing makes any difference - if not will consider replacing the air valve unit.

 

Cheers,

 

Nigel

[janneman36]

The medium tip can clog up with stynylrez as for the stynylrez it is recommended to use a large tip.

I use a medium tip for the stynylrez and thin it a lttle more wich works for me, but if it still clogs just clean it a little with brush drenched in ipa .

That way you can keep your tip clean during paint sessions, this is something i do with acrylics and works for mee.

Mine at least did as some of mine are allready 25 five years old and i think they are so simple to keep them in good condition due to the teflon rings wich aren't affected by agressive thinners as rubber ones

So good luck with your Badger and if you use right it will serve you good

 

Cheers, Jan

[nheather]

My spare parts for the Badger 200 arrived today - a PTFE Needle Bearing and a complete Air Valve.  I was originally just going to replace the plunger washer on the air valve and I suspect that would have done the job but the complete air valve assembly was only £6 more so decided to play on the safe side.

 

Fitted the bearing first.  As expected didn't make much difference to the airflow, but what it does do is grip the needle firmly so when adjusting the opening at the back it feels much more precise and stays where you left it.

 

I then fitted the new valve.  This made a big difference - still not as powerful as my Iwatas but plenty good enough.

 

The spray pattern is wide enough for basing my 1:35 armour and the brush is very nice to use, easy to clean and I like that I can keep bottles of ready mixed primer and varnish on the shelf for instant use.

 

Cheers,

 

Nigel