Jump to content

RN Hawker Sea Hawk from 810 Sqdn on HMS Albion, December 1956


Recommended Posts

Finally got some paint on. Primed the internal parts black, followed by a very dark grey for the cockpit and silver for the other stuff.

SH-XE335-100.jpg

 

The undercarriage bay with the extra wires does make it look a bit more "busy" looking.

SH-XE335-101.jpg

Detailing and weathering next.

Cheers, Peter

  • Like 6
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 5/5/2018 at 9:17 AM, trickyrich said:

she looks good with a bit of colour on

Thanks Rich. Yes it does make a difference.

 

59 minutes ago, CJP said:

Looking great - that U/C bay really looks good with a coat of paint

CJP

Thanks CJP. There is a lot there and I hope to enhance things a bit when applying the weathering.

 

Started the detailing and finished the IP, so the following two pictures are work in progress.

SH-XE335-103.jpg

SH-XE335-104.jpg

 

Black cockpits are always a challenge to make it look interesting. Next is a gloss varnish followed by some placard and instrument decals and a grey wash. Then a flat varnish to apply chipping and then all sealed in with a satin varnish :wall:

 

Cheers, Peter

  • Like 7
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I can't remember, did you use straight black or something like NATO/Tyre black. I think I used the NATO black for the cockpit of the Sea Fury and I found it actually looked better "in scale", plus I you could use black panel ink and it would show up. I didn't bother in the end as you can barely see into the cockpit and it wouldn't have made much difference.

 

That said the cockpit does look great, nice detailing work. Were the flight instruments mounted separately or on vibration mounts? I just noticed the white surrounds to them.  

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 5/7/2018 at 5:13 PM, trickyrich said:

I can't remember, did you use straight black or something like NATO/Tyre black. I think I used the NATO black for the cockpit of the Sea Fury and I found it actually looked better "in scale", plus I you could use black panel ink and it would show up. I didn't bother in the end as you can barely see into the cockpit and it wouldn't have made much difference.

 

That said the cockpit does look great, nice detailing work. Were the flight instruments mounted separately or on vibration mounts? I just noticed the white surrounds to them.  

Yes the cockpit comes along ok. I used  Japanese cowling colour which is a dark grey colour with a bit of a blue hue to it. Will lighten things a bit when using oils during the weathering.

 

The white surrounds is actually painted on.

SH-XE335-83.jpg

 

I tried to use a decal strip first, but that didn't work out. It isn't perfect but will do.

Cheers, Peter

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes I still do work on her :)

 

I got myself a little treat in the shape of some new scribers. They are the Japanese Alec Holly "line engraving tools" and I used them for the first time on this build.

SH-XE335-105a.jpg

Scribing the panel lines around the gun openings. I also used a "carving tape" from Japan and it works very well, much better than Dymo tape.

 

SH-XE335-106a.jpg

 

This scribers are terrific as they give a constant with and not a groove in a V-shape. The one I have are 0.1mm and 0.15mm and I used the 0.15mm scriber here.

 

And finally all the internal stuff is painted.

SH-XE335-107a.jpg

Just noticed that I forgot to add the jet pipes to the stuff above. But they are painted too.

 

Here some close-up of these parts as most will be hidden :wall:

SH-XE335-108a.jpg

SH-XE335-110a.jpg

It is rather hard to bring some "live" into a silver wheel bay. But I tried to play with different silver hues plus flat and gloss to give a bit a variation and the look of a machine in use.

 

The front wheel bay will be fun to fit into the fuselage.

SH-XE335-111.jpg

 

And finally the cockpit.

SH-XE335-112.jpg

 

SH-XE335-113b.jpg

 

Now things are ready to fit into the fuselage and close her up - at last.:thumbsup:

 

Cheers, Peter

 

Edited by Basilisk
  • Like 12
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Got most of the resin bits fitted :)

SH-XE335-116.jpg

 

The cockpit is certainly an improvement over the stock pit in the kit. Still have to add the detail around the gun sight, the canopy defrosting pipes and finishing the ejection seat. But I will do that prior priming of the model.

SH-XE335-117.jpg

 

I was concerned about the fit of the nose wheel bay insert. Glued in the rear part which surprisingly was a perfect fit. But I noticed that there is no provision to fit the front wheel. :wall: Better work that out before I glue the fuselage together.

 

And the main wheel bay does look rather busy and all lined up correctly.

SH-XE335-118b.jpg

 

And one more thing needed to be fitted into the fuselage.

SH-XE335-115.jpg

The sharp end of the 20mm Hispano Mk.5 cannon.  Can't really see them, but it is good to know they are there. :winkgrin:

 

Also had a look at the rear end of the fuselage. I don't know what Trumpeter was thinking, but the rudder is way to thick with a very wide trailing edge.

SH-XE335-119.jpg

The part on the left has the rudder flattened and in the process creating a scale trailing edge. But this left still a rather funny looking bump ahead of the rudder. I flattened this on the part on the right. Looks now much better, but I have to re-scribe some lines.

 

I also noticed that the parts around the rear jet pipe need some major rework as the fit is rather poor.

 

Cheers, Peter

Edited by Basilisk
  • Like 7
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I really like what you are doing with this model - I think that the tail plane bullet is too fat as portrayed in the kit needing correction and agree that the jet exhaust fairings need some work - to me they seem to flare away from the fuselage too much but easily correct with a round file! - I filed then back about 1mm to bring them closer to the fuselage - anyhow I know you will devise a solution with the skills you've displayed so far in this enjoyable build

CJP

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

for a model that is requiring a bit of modification work to correct issues you are making some really quick progress. At this rate you may have to start another build!!! :D

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 5/16/2018 at 12:15 AM, Biggles87 said:

Good job on the wheel wells Peter, they look extremely realistic.

 

John

Thanks John. But I am still not sure if everything was silver.  I assume it was some kind of paint to protect the parts from the sea going environment.

 

On 5/16/2018 at 7:05 PM, CJP said:

I really like what you are doing with this model - I think that the tail plane bullet is too fat as portrayed in the kit needing correction and agree that the jet exhaust fairings need some work - to me they seem to flare away from the fuselage too much but easily correct with a round file! - I filed then back about 1mm to bring them closer to the fuselage - anyhow I know you will devise a solution with the skills you've displayed so far in this enjoyable build

CJP

Thanks Chris. Yes I too think that the tail plane bullet doesn't look right. But I will wait with correcting it until the rear end is attached to the main fuselage. Will make it easier to compare it with pictures.

 

I also feel that the drop tanks have a shape issue. They look a bit too fat in the front when I compare them with pictures. Thinking about it, not much looks right on this model. :(

 

As I like to show the wing in the folded position using the Pavla set, I wonder how you attached them to the fuselage on your build?

 

On 5/16/2018 at 10:33 PM, trickyrich said:

for a model that is requiring a bit of modification work to correct issues you are making some really quick progress. At this rate you may have to start another build!!! :D

Very kind of you to say that Rich. And I did start another build in the 262 GB .... how will I finish them :hmmm:

 

I did make some progress, but the dam fuselage is STILL NOT together. :wall:

SH-XE335-120.jpg

Fitted the last bit of resin and it was a fight from beginning to the end. But it looks ok now, sadly impossible to take a picture showing all the internal goodies. :(

 

Next was the preparation for adding the weight into the nose.

SH-XE335-121.jpg

It does feel now rather heavy with the lead in place.

 

Next step is now definitely the assembly of the two fuselage half. :thumbsup:

 

Cheers, Peter

  • Like 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

mmm how many U/c bays and cockpits have we spent hours on only for it to be mostly unseen once everything is closed up!

 

It looks like you used everything but the kitchen sink to get that nose gear wheel well in place , and you could have left it there for extra weight to! :D

 

I take it there'll be lots of cheering going on once you finally close her up.

  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

20 hours ago, Basilisk said:

 

Thanks Chris. Yes I too think that the tail plane bullet doesn't look right. But I will wait with correcting it until the rear end is attached to the main fuselage. Will make it easier to compare it with pictures.

 

I also feel that the drop tanks have a shape issue. They look a bit too fat in the front when I compare them with pictures. Thinking about it, not much looks right on this model. :(

 

As I like to show the wing in the folded position using the Pavla set, I wonder how you attached them to the fuselage on your build?

 

Hi Peter - you really have me scratching my head about remembering that - I managed to dig up some photos taken during the build plus some just now

The photo below show the model ready to attach the outer wing panels

 

IMG_4822.jpgIMG_6977.jpg

I used the Wolfpack outer wing panels as I thought they looked pretty good apart from needing to thin down the leading edges but I was not so impressed with the inner Wolfpack wing fold section so I scratch built that - these following photos look pretty horrible in close up but apart from gluing the wing fold hinge points, the red brace plays a big part in giving the wing fold strength & maybe the hydraulic ram push rod - even so it is still pretty delicate & I managed to knock the wings off the Sea Hawk after I had posted it in RFI on BM - I think it was after that that I resolved to try and engineer brass wire or strip into wing folds to give strength as in my Hobbycraft Sea Fury rebuild and Trumpeter Wyvern build here on BM - the outer panels are quite long and there is not much strength in the hinges

IMG_6976.jpgIMG_6975.jpgIMG_6974.jpg

Not a good photo below but shows work on mine starting to tackle the tail bullet & jet exhaust pen nib fairing - I am not sure about the tanks now you mention it & can't decide if they are too fat at the front or to skinny at the back? - I don't recall changing them myself on my model but It will be interesting to see what you decide

002_2.jpg

hope this helps and that I have not taken up too much space replying

regards

Chris

Edited by CJP
  • Like 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 5/20/2018 at 9:09 AM, trickyrich said:

mmm how many U/c bays and cockpits have we spent hours on only for it to be mostly unseen once everything is closed up!

Too many I guess. But as you know, its good to know it is there.

 

On 5/20/2018 at 9:09 AM, trickyrich said:

It looks like you used everything but the kitchen sink to get that nose gear wheel well in place , and you could have left it there for extra weight to! :D

:lol: It certainly would have helped with the weight - could have disguised as Antennas :winkgrin:

 

19 hours ago, CJP said:

Hi Peter - you really have me scratching my head about remembering that - I managed to dig up some photos taken during the build plus some just now

The photo below show the model ready to attach the outer wing panels

 

I used the Wolfpack outer wing panels as I thought they looked pretty good apart from needing to thin down the leading edges but I was not so impressed with the inner Wolfpack wing fold section so I scratch built that - these following photos look pretty horrible in close up but apart from gluing the wing fold hinge points, the red brace plays a big part in giving the wing fold strength & maybe the hydraulic ram push rod - even so it is still pretty delicate & I managed to knock the wings off the Sea Hawk after I had posted it in RFI on BM - I think it was after that that I resolved to try and engineer brass wire or strip into wing folds to give strength as in my Hobbycraft Sea Fury rebuild and Trumpeter Wyvern build here on BM - the outer panels are quite long and there is not much strength in the hinges

 

Not a good photo below but shows work on mine starting to tackle the tail bullet & jet exhaust pen nib fairing - I am not sure about the tanks now you mention it & can't decide if they are too fat at the front or to skinny at the back? - I don't recall changing them myself on my model but It will be interesting to see what you decide

 

hope this helps and that I have not taken up too much space replying

regards

Chris

Thanks Chris for posting the pictures from the construction of your Sea Hawk and for your explanations - much appreciated. I too forget how I did things and found having a build documented on the web is very helpful in checking how I did something in the past :whistle:

 

I too considered the Wolfpack wing fold conversion, but decided against it as I didn't see any benefit in having the outer wing in solid resin. Will see how the Pavla parts will look like when in place. Your scratch build inner wing looks great.

 

Got the fuselage finally together, but unfortunately not much cheering happened as the fit was very poor :( I try fitted the parts many time during the build and things matched very well. But as soon as I put glue to plastic, everything changed :wall:

SH-XE335-122.jpg

Looks currently more like a Mummy than a Sea Hawk:hmmm: Will need some serious re-work after the bandage comes off...

 

Cheers, Peter

Edited by Basilisk
  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good luck Peter when you unwrap the fuselage, I'm sure it will be fine with a touch of that CA/Talc mix  - I think in retrospect I would in future probably scratch build the inner and out wing folds using the kit wings - I have quite often been disappointed with some aftermarket replacements - to me this would be a good opportunity for them to produce a part with the correct wing aerofoil section but more often than not they just replicate the kit parts which often do not have the cross section correct.

I am interested however in seeing what the Wolfpack Firefly wing fold kit is like so will keep an open mind but these days lean toward scratch building these parts.

CJP

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, CJP said:

Good luck Peter when you unwrap the fuselage, I'm sure it will be fine with a touch of that CA/Talc mix  - I think in retrospect I would in future probably scratch build the inner and out wing folds using the kit wings - I have quite often been disappointed with some aftermarket replacements - to me this would be a good opportunity for them to produce a part with the correct wing aerofoil section but more often than not they just replicate the kit parts which often do not have the cross section correct.

I am interested however in seeing what the Wolfpack Firefly wing fold kit is like so will keep an open mind but these days lean toward scratch building these parts.

CJP

Thanks Chris. Yes I too find that a lot of resin aftermarket replacements don't really fix inaccuracies. A good example on this build was the Aires cockpit as there could gave been so much more done. The Aires wheel well on the other hand is a great replica and accurate too.

 

I was a bit inpatient and had to remove the bandage to see how the joint ended up. :hmmm: One side was rather good.

SH-XE335-125.jpg

 

But the other side needed a bit of work.

SH-XE335-123.jpg

The part I cut out was sticking out noticeably and also was rather thin from making the Aires resin cockpit fit. So CA with talc won't help much here. Fitting a plastic insert instead should be a more secure fix in the long run.

 

SH-XE335-124.jpg

Will let it all dry for a couple of days and then start blending the two half together. Should need minimal filler.

 

Cheers, Peter

  • Like 8
Link to comment
Share on other sites

oooo that was nasty! No you were right plastic is the only way to go in that case. 

 

I feel for plastic models it's best to just stick with plastic to fill holes and gaps and a wee bit of filler at the end to help clean it up. CA is best left for resin and such, as it will eventually dry much harder that plastic which can/will cause issues when sanding back. The plastic will go before the CA cement.....not something you want or need.

 

It's funny how things change the moment you add glue! Least the fuselage together is a milestone.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 5/21/2018 at 10:20 PM, trickyrich said:

oooo that was nasty! No you were right plastic is the only way to go in that case. 

 

I feel for plastic models it's best to just stick with plastic to fill holes and gaps and a wee bit of filler at the end to help clean it up. CA is best left for resin and such, as it will eventually dry much harder that plastic which can/will cause issues when sanding back. The plastic will go before the CA cement.....not something you want or need.

 

It's funny how things change the moment you add glue! Least the fuselage together is a milestone.

You certainly right in regards to the CA getting harder than plastic, making it difficult to sand back. But that is where Talcum powder comes in. With this stuff mixed into the CA sanding is a breeze. It is also great stuff if you have to scribe over it.

 

Unfortunately not much progress this week as I spent most of my time on the 262.

 

I start riveting the rear end after I reworked the rudder.

SH-XE335-126.jpg

One thing is sure, no shortage of rivets on the Sea Hawk :winkgrin:

 

I used this picture to work out where they go.

SH-XE335-127.jpg

 

Also started to re-shape the nose. I already reduced the length by 2mm

SH-XE335-128.jpg

No I have to reduce the width to the size of the masking tape on the nose. Will be interesting to see how this goes.

 

Hope to get more done this week.

Cheers, Peter

  • Like 6
Link to comment
Share on other sites

43 minutes ago, trickyrich said:

gee that's a fair bit to remove! Will there be enough plastic underneath to allow it? You my want to fill the nice up with your mi of CA & Talc.

 

Yes more than I was hoping for :( As a precaution, I did fill the space with my CA mix prior gluing the fuselage together.

 

After I got the shape of the nose right, I will shorten the nose further and rebuild the opening section with plasticard so that it will hopefully look like this.

SH-XE335-129.jpg

Does someone know what this hole is actually for?

 

Cheers, Peter

  • Like 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi

 

Wow this is an amazing build so far.  This is fantastic.  I have just started one of these too fortunately I have not got too far with the build before catching up with your thread.  Thanks for sharing all this very useful information in your build and the links.  

All the best

Chris  

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Peter - I have never bothered too much about adding rivets to a model build but this one has got me intrigued - what tool do you use to make the rows of rivets on your models?

I did a lot of fettling trying to get the nose looking reasonable on my Sea hawk so watching with interest how you go about making it right.

CJP

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 5/28/2018 at 6:32 AM, bigbadbadge said:

Hi

 

Wow this is an amazing build so far.  This is fantastic.  I have just started one of these too fortunately I have not got too far with the build before catching up with your thread.  Thanks for sharing all this very useful information in your build and the links.  

All the best

Chris  

Thanks Chris. I thought it will be an easy and quick build as all reviews raved about this kit. But I have the bad habit of comparing models to pictures and this has the potential to open a can of worms :hmmm:

 

But I do enjoy correcting inaccuracies. I realize that not everyone likes to do this and is happy in building a kit out of the box and the Sea Hawk does make a nice model when done like that, just not an accurate one :(

 

On 5/28/2018 at 8:27 PM, CJP said:

Hi Peter - I have never bothered too much about adding rivets to a model build but this one has got me intrigued - what tool do you use to make the rows of rivets on your models?

I did a lot of fettling trying to get the nose looking reasonable on my Sea hawk so watching with interest how you go about making it right.

CJP

You can see (saw) my riveters I use for 1/48 scale models in my Me 262 build. To me rivets enhance a model nicely, but I also accept that many see them as unnecessary or even wrong. Of course to represent rivets as little holes isn't correct as such (but then, neither are many panel lines), but it gives an illusion of rivets and in my eye they should only be visible if looking close as with a real aircraft. And I do like the process of adding rivets - I guess I am nuts :whistle:

 

In regards to the Sea Hawk nose, making it right is very difficult as the fuselage curvature has several issue. But I hope it will look better when done.

 

Cheers, Peter

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...