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Taigen Panther G 1:16


Soeren

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Hey folks, this is something different. About one year ago I started this hobby with 1/16 RC tanks and got a Panther Taigen/HenLong. Thought it was nice out of the box but then fealt after a week, that the paintjob should be changed. So of I went.

 

This is what I was starting with

IMG_5679.jpg 

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After a short periot of time it looked different. Wanted to go for a late war olive green tank with inverted spaghetti. That was my second tank painted with the airbrush and so spaghetti camo might be more for the advanced user.

 

IMG_5690.jpg

 

At least the running gear was pleasing to me. Weathering was a dust wash to the wheels and garden dirt by driving in the dry soil. Only on the top I treid Vallejo pigments with their fixer.

 

IMG_5691.jpg

 

I soon came across a Dragon Panther in 1/35 and from that point on, I knew, the top cant stay like that.

Edited by Soeren
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The Taigen paint job was sort of "blaaah" all right but the spaghetti noodles look great. For an airbrush novice it turned out pretty nice.

 

I think your WIP Tiger I is coming along very well and I'd say both of these are keepers.

 

Take care,

 

Lloyd

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Thank you Lloyd. Yes it is a keeper, but I needs some things done still. That it is why I think it was sstill interesting to start a Build report. 

 

All the three 1/16 tanks are equipped with aftermarket electronics, so they behave and sound much better than the stock pieces. And the price will make me wanna keep them for as long as I dont get bored of them.

 

Having said that, the Panther was heavily modified after I got my hands on a Dragon late Panther G. Because the Detail on the Hen Long is nothing compared to the 1/35 th scale kit.

 

So I went for the new Taigen upper and turret. Unfortunately the turret was only available in the metal version, making any mods much more difficult.

 

For the better details I got the ABER Panther basic set that got all the tool racks and some other nice detail, that I wanted to use.

 

 

jzvnmm8v.jpg

 

The following idea was then to reproduce the paintjob on the big tank as well.

 

I had the Dragon paint scheme and got a stencil set, with different intepretations of that scheme. 

m84gqzyk.jpg

 

 

 

 

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Repaint was done as soon as the ABER parts were on. The basic PE kit was split between a Jagdpanther, mainly the backplate parts and all the racks for tools, wood block and spare tracks came on the Panther G.

 

The lower hull was good as it was, only the lower back and front got the yellow camo and one pair of wheels had to painted yellow.

 

Sprayed Vallejos RAL 6003 straight out of the bottle and misted some RAL6003 80% + RAL 1001 20% for  highlights

 

WP_20170424_19_09_46_Rich.jpg

 

For the camo the Vallejo masker some kind of latex paint was used. Destryoed 2 brushes in the end. Now with Panzer Putty I had no reason to use that stuff again.

 

Panther20camo20wip.jpg

 

The wheels got a redo and were highlited with oil paints. Same for the Tank: First sprayed RAL 8025 with 20% of RAL 1001 and then used Abtl 502 light sand to work in highlights

 

PAntherwheelsmodulation.jpg

 

The markingss were painted using stencils

 

WP_20170430_18_39_55_Rich.jpg

 

WP_20170430_18_38_13_Rich.jpg

 

The pin wash was Vallejo olive green mixed with some gray wash.

 

In trhe sun the color is really rich. But it also shows highlightsa and pinwash very well. Off to weathering.

WP_20170501_14_14_02_Rich.jpg

 

Edited by Soeren
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Next was all the weathering. My idea, this thing was going on the roads in the countryside for a few days and had ssome rain in between. I got two wilder pigments: European road clay and European earth some grayish and dome reddish tones. Together with some Vallejo dust washes and Rainstreakesand plaster and lots of washing with getting dirty by cleaning the brushes more and more, but adding different shades at the same time.

 

It was a week of another session every evening. And turned out like this in the end.

 

PantherCakingLevel6.jpg

PantherCake2.jpg

PantherCake.jpg

 

Unfortunately you dont see much of this in the end as it is covered by the tracks.

 

 

 

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Oil paint dry brushing, Pin wash and initial filter done.

 

file.php?id=61338&mode=view

 

After that I had to try some weathering, same products as for the lower hull, but more as a streaking effect. Some touchups still needed.

file.php?id=61368&mode=view

 

Here you go, wheels and tracks weathered too. The tracks were a tedious process. Black primer, Vallejo Panzer Aceas Track Primer, Oil wash. And then about 4-5 sessions of acrylic dust washes and Pigments, finally matt varnish. Wonder if that was really needed.

file.php?id=61383&mode=view

 

file.php?id=61384&mode=view

 

Now the latest additions as of last week. AND natural weathering. The tank was sitting in the wintergarden for 4 months, exposed to sunlight, dust and harsh temperature changes. Colour changed and some more Details added, especially spare tracks, MG 34 and some Tools. Getting closer to the finish.

 

file.php?id=69498&mode=view

file.php?id=69499&mode=view

 

file.php?id=69500&mode=view

 

file.php?id=69501&mode=view

 

 

 

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Doeas it actually count as cheatting? ;)

 

This is my approach on weathering these 1/16 scale tracks. And trust me, it eats those weathering products up like no good.

 

Primes and first layer of oils.

l396xtg4.jpg

 

Oils followed by acrylic dust wash and pigments. Yeah, that desperate stug ate all the leftovers :troll:

rqqh3xb6.jpg

 

After some more dust washes and matt varnish these were finished

rt53nodj.jpg

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Thanks Lloyd for the kind words. :)

 

I wanted to try something: The Voyager Etch grill set. To make the order reasonable I got some goodies as well.

 

The Etch is thin, better than the Taigen parts, but I guess less than the ABER parts. But, this is 15€ vs 30€. So still an option

 

 ys8ccsc6.jpg

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  • 1 month later...

The Tiger lower is running now. So back to the Panther.

Here you go, most of the Voyager grill set added. Pro it looks better than the molded on parts. Cons, the pieces are slightly oversized for the Taigen upper. The grill for the right side vent had to be trimmed and to be able the add the compartment heater all the molded on details had to be sanded down. The air intake grills are slightly larger as well but can be placed none the less.

The bolts for the chain were from the ABER Panther set and the grills are held in place by cast hex bolts. The Yoyager kit only includes bolt head look alikes.

file.php?id=70673&mode=view

 

Now the remaining tools. The large prybar is form 2.5mm brass rod, the smaller is made from the Taigen long one shortened and reshaped. The tube tool from 2.5 mm Trumpeter brass tube. The hammer is a tin cas head and a shaped beechwood rod.

Everything primes with Mr surfacer to add some texture.

 

file.php?id=70679&mode=view

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It's nice to see someone mucking about with 1:16 RC tanks :) I've got a couple - a Jagdpanther, and a KT, with the latter being the one Boy gets to play with as it's still almost stock apart from a few nice bits of metal, such as new exhausts.  The JP is more of a work in progress with lots of Aber stuff, resin, scratched & metal parts, including tracks and swing-arms.  I've already upgraded the speaker to something with a bit more power, but I'd be interested to hear a bit more about the other electronic upgrades you've made.  It always tickles me the way when you fire the main gun, the tank rocks back on its tracks - even when the turret is pointing backward! :doh:

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I have an IBU2Pro. There I can switch off the track recoil. Also I plan to chang the gun recoil to servo, so I can adjust the recoil settings. The Sound is on a 10w visaton speaker. Sounds nice so far. But I would like to get a larger box one day, maybe with the 15w speaker, like in my Jagdpanther.

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That's awesome, as is the TARR smoke unit.  I love the fact that you can proportion the amount of smoke, which is pretty much how it works IRL. :clap2: Does the IBU2Pro come with all the sounds you'll need for both my tanks?  I'm seriously tempted, but then I'm gonna have questions about the wiring & such :)

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The IBU2Pro is the older version, id includes a SD card where you put on the soundset and configuration of your choice. You cant switch between them, but you can change the sets on your computer. It is mostly plug and play for the Taigen or Heng Long electronics. The recent Version is the IBU2 Ultimate.

 

You can buy the electronics here for example https://www.rctankelectronics.com/store/c2/IBU3%2C_IBU2%2C_TPA_%26_Deals.html

the manual is available from the IBU website http://www.ibu-electronics.com/index.htm

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Hers is a short video testing the functions last weekend. The Moving in the first part is with the inertia setting switched on. In the end I switched it of to test how the tanks responds.

 

The sound would be better with the larger speaker, if you compare it to the Jagdpanther video. The Tiger has the same electronics setup as the Panther.

 

For the gun sound I took the 75mm from the Stug III soundset because it has a more "dry" sound.

 

 

https://youtu.be/08y-G9hhOEM

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Went ahead and blend the deck together, also made the borders of the sand more sprayed looking. Test fitting of the tools that got a foew more layers of paint. I like the hammer best, but you dont see much of it now.

file.php?id=70700&mode=view

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So we are getting closer. Attached the tool clamps, resprayed the added pieces and blended everything together with some spray here and there. Now test fitting and off to the turret before final weathering.

 

For the cables I got the stiff ABER ones. Will see how I will be able to add them. Then will be the addition of the servo recoil as well. 

 

Thanks for watching :D

 

file.php?id=70767&mode=view

 

file.php?id=70768&mode=view

 

file.php?id=70769&mode=view

 

file.php?id=70770&mode=view

P.S.: The little fella just wanted to join. 

 

 

 

 

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Hi there. The servo modification of the turret is a bit more demanding. Will get the elevation working in the near future, But then the bracket for the recoil and the section where it slides in has to be heavily modified.

Well, while figuring that out, I though to get rit of the fish eyes on the mantlet. Added a casting seam, a bit exaggerated though, but the Vallejo plastic putty will help blending it in. A few passes with sanding and it should look alright. The two large holes were filled in with Apoxie Sculpt and a brass tube inside. The MG is a brass tube flared towards the opening. Thought of putting an ABER barrel in, but only for a bit of it sticking out? Nah.

Here is a comparison of the mantlet before (top right) and after treatment (top left) and original foto (bottom left) and the Schumo mantlet (bottom right). Just added the rainguard to the scope opening and gave the mantlet a coat of Mr Surfacer 1000.


Maybe finally some wet sanding the other day and it is done. Easy update I would say. Wonder why I didnt do this in the first place.

 

file.php?id=70824&mode=view

 

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Yep - pretty impressive overall, and thanks for sharing it. Maybe it'll encourage me to get my Jagdpanther out soon :)

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Thank you guys. I wonder why the 1:16 rc tanks have this little refined detail in the first place. Because these start as plain toys in the beginning I guess.

 

So here is the new face compared to the old, and the amount of gun depression that would be theoretically possible now.

 

Old Face

 

file.php?id=70834&mode=view

 

New Face and possible gun depression

 

file.php?id=70835&mode=view

 

 

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Hi there,

just quickly mounted the Servo only ssecured with one screw, that is why the gun is wobbling in the lowering Motion, but I can get great range of Motion all around now. I used the cogwheel from the rctankelectronics set. Unfortunately you cant set the range of Motion int the IBU electronics. The cogwheel I use is slightly too large, but the next smaller on is too small. Maybe there will be a way to get something inbetween printed somehow.

Have a look

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QqSD3lsRDwo&feature=youtu.be

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Ok, here it finally is. A speaker test. Everything recorded with the same settings. The stock Taigen speaker isnt too bad. The large Visaton adds a lot I would say. The 5w doesnt really help, just expesive. The FRS7 with box was half the price and funt to build.

Cheers

 

 

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