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Starting on a conversion,a 250 gto to a race van!

 

Starting with this.

2v0h1xl.jpg

 

28aql1g.jpg

 

10pozud.jpg

 

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315zj38.jpg

 

Got one  side near done..
64qngm.jpg

2ymerug.jpg

Taking shape here.
o9qow2.jpg

35n55cw.jpg

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Posted (edited)

Awesome machine Seen her race a few times will be watching with interest. Here's her at Goodwood 2009

Breadvan1_zpswngde5gq.jpg

 

Breadvan2_zpsnymnuleu.jpg

Edited by tweeky
adding photos.

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Love the Breadvan, also seen it race a few times and the crowd always love it. Looking forward to seeing how it ends up

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Love the Breadvan too: seen it many times - always driven with verve and shall be saying hello to it again this weekend :)

 

Nice conversion and a great subject!

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Reprofiled the rear.
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Tidying up the nose.
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Decided to remove the rear arch flare to match the front!
2kr292.jpg

Got more puk on her- one must break a few eggs in order to make an omlette.....
21k9nvn.jpg

1fycfm.jpg

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23 hours ago, mini man said:

Thanks guys,

A few more pics,converting her to rhd.

dzfsdu.jpg

 

 

 

 

I hope I don't come across as rude asking, but I was just wondering what your thinking was for the RHD conversion? Is it personal preference, or was there some other reason? Just asking since the real thing is LHD, but ultimately my feeling is that the only way you're doing the model wrong is if you don't do it how you want it.

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1 hour ago, Spiny said:

I hope I don't come across as rude asking, but I was just wondering what your thinking was for the RHD conversion? Is it personal preference, or was there some other reason? Just asking since the real thing is LHD, but ultimately my feeling is that the only way you're doing the model wrong is if you don't do it how you want it.

Well I have a thing about converting cars,some are easier than others to  do!

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Ah.....the old Protar (now Revell) kit!, very nice...looking good!!

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A lot of work there, but its gonna pay off for you!, I too have the Protar version that I left half done to do other things.

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19 hours ago, Dannimal said:

A lot of work there, but its gonna pay off for you!, I too have the Protar version that I left half done to do other things.

Thanks.

 

More sanding,gradually losing the low spots.
b54bjo.jpg

Got the lower corners sorted.
2utrqdz.jpg

Yet more filler!..
cksbr.jpg

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One question,why is the tacho up down sideways? as my late bruv used to say.

 

Getting there,I am not worried about the sides or rear,just the roof at present.

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OK the roof..I just cant get it level/smooth - there  is a low point of aprox 0.5mm...

 

izlumb.jpg

 

 

 

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Posted (edited)

Gauges are usually rotated so that all the needles line up during operation (so that one that's reading incorrectly will be noticeable): that's OK for gauges which shouldn't move much (like water temp; oil pressure etc) but obviously the tacho won't be static. I suspect it's because the driver can't see the red line when it's orientated the right-way-up.

 

EDIT: In fact I think it's so that the driver can see the whole swept range: some of the gauge would be obscured by the steering wheel if it was 'correctly' orientated.

Edited by Sabrejet
Pondering time and subsequent lightbulb moment.

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Thanks for that,it is used by the rally lads in partiular.8000 Redline if I am reading it right..

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One of the (fragile!)rear stub axles snapped off so  I had to create one.
2dl0vat.jpg

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Headlight buckets in place.
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I had to create a new boot floor as it would have shown a gap through the new window!
63rlt3.jpg

Outer shot,also got more filler in the roof (yawn..................................)
2nv5s8j.jpg

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This is a spare kit that I worked the idea in before butchering the Protar/Revell kit,any ideas what mfrg it may be by.

2wcgmdu.jpg

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