billn53 Posted June 12, 2018 Share Posted June 12, 2018 7 hours ago, RidgeRunner said: Hi all! Well, the masking is off and here she is in "Technicolor" Clearly there will be some cleaning up, but I'm happy. In fact I'm very happy. I won't get any work done on her today. I just wanted to get the masks off to settle my nerves! . Some of the paint-paint joint lines will need some attention but that's a small price to pay, I think. A million thanks Giorgio! @Giorgio N Martin Oh my, that's a striking Thud! Great result on the paint job. It's sure to be a head-turner when you're done. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RidgeRunner Posted June 13, 2018 Author Share Posted June 13, 2018 (edited) Thanks Bill. I’m getting impatient to move forward with her now. I will be starting Mr Toad soon so iI’ll have a distraction! I just need to summon the energy and concentration to fill all those rivets. With 81155 i used Tippex fluid and alchohol wipes. I’ve discovered, though, that I can use white spirit, which forsn’t dry off do quickly. Martin Edited June 13, 2018 by RidgeRunner 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RidgeRunner Posted June 13, 2018 Author Share Posted June 13, 2018 A bit out of sequence but I found a shot of Giorgio's mask in place. I hope it is interesting to some of you: Martin 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry1954 Posted June 13, 2018 Share Posted June 13, 2018 33 minutes ago, RidgeRunner said: A bit out of sequence but I found a shot of Giorgio's mask in place. I hope it is interesting to some of you: Those masks look great. I must have missed what these are all about, some sort of home-made masks by @Giorgio N ? Can you point me to anywhere that explains it? Thanks Terry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RidgeRunner Posted June 13, 2018 Author Share Posted June 13, 2018 (edited) On 6/11/2018 at 1:38 PM, RidgeRunner said: Right, now I've taken a shot of a spare mask that Giorgio has sent. I will let him comment on the material used. It worked extremely well. The upper mask here is the one I used for the port side while below is a back up mask, slightly off set to show you how it looks. I marked a reference point as you can see and by doing that it went on without any fuss at all. Excellent! I have meant to add previously that while there are some references for the actual machine, there are very few. Therefore I have followed what I interpret to be correct and will, for a couple of things I will use a bit of "modeller's licence". These wil be where I want to incorporate a feature that I know existed but for which I have no reference on this machine. The other thing to say is that the exact design of the balloon, flashes, etc is again interpretation in thr absence of any more information. So don't shoot me when someone finds a full set of shots of 81155 Martin Here you go mate @Terry1954 Edited June 13, 2018 by RidgeRunner 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SA80A2AR Posted June 14, 2018 Share Posted June 14, 2018 wowzers that is one of the best thuds ive ever seen. them maskes are great Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RidgeRunner Posted June 14, 2018 Author Share Posted June 14, 2018 (edited) Thanks mate. That is just the start :). I now need to tidy up and then start further masking of the serial, buzz, etc outlines, star and bar outlines. All produced for me skillfully by Giorgio. Thereafter i will start decalling while i finish the undercart, pitot etc. Martin Edited June 14, 2018 by RidgeRunner Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RidgeRunner Posted June 14, 2018 Author Share Posted June 14, 2018 Seeking your expert guidance! i have little experience in this so I’d appreciate all advice on painting barbers pole pitots. In this case it is not a spiral. Here’s hoping for your wisdom ....... thanks Martin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giorgio N Posted June 14, 2018 Share Posted June 14, 2018 Just now, RidgeRunner said: Seeking your expert guidance! i have little experience in this so I’d appreciate all advice on painting barbers pole pitots. In this case it is not a spiral. Here’s hoping for your wisdom ....... thanks Martin depends on how many rings are around the pitot tube. If they only have a few rings (like 3+3), I often get away with free-hand painting. If they are a bit more complicated, like with more rings or large rings, I use two different techniques: 1) Masking, that is painting the tube in the lighter colour and then masking using narrow stripes of the right size before applying the darker colour. 2) Decal strips, where again I paint the tube in the lighter colour and then apply stripes of coloured decal of the right size. To get the colour I often simply spray the desired colour on a length of clear decal. To get the stripes of the right size, I attach the tape or decal paper on the back of the claws of a vernier caliper set at the desired distance, in this way I can cut very accurately a number of strips of the same size in any size I need 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RidgeRunner Posted June 14, 2018 Author Share Posted June 14, 2018 As always, Giorgio, great advice! thanks 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giorgio N Posted June 14, 2018 Share Posted June 14, 2018 Couple of words on the masks, since these have attracted some attention: yes, these masks are custom made and are cut using a computer-controlled cutter. It's a machine at the lower end of the price spectrum so can't really achieve the same results of other more sophisticated machines but can still be very useful for a modeller. The masks are the result of a collaboration between Martin an myself and were designed specifically for this model. From one side they are a way for me to thank Martin for the help he gave me with one of my previous models, on the other hand Martin is kind of a guinea pig for my masks, so it works both ways... 😁 As often happens in these things, the hard part was getting all settings right. Drawing them was easy enough, with the only small problem being that I don't have the kit in my stash (I have one but is built), so we had to exchange a few emails with drawings taken by Martin on the model while I had to email back the various drafts to check if these were fitting properly. Cutting was easy once I managed to find decent enought settings... I say decent enoiugh rather than good as I still had a few issues with the smallest letters. These issues resulted in Martin having to wait for a while, had I got the settings earlier, this model would be finished by now... sorry about that mate ! I'm planning the use of masks for the camo scheme of a model, I may add in that thread some pictures of the whole process, may be of use to anyone interested in buying a computer controlled cutter 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RidgeRunner Posted June 14, 2018 Author Share Posted June 14, 2018 Hi Giorgio! Thanks for the compliments. As always I am extremely grateful of your help with this build. I note your advice regarding the pitot. I have actually received another colour image showing her with a solid International Red pitot too! Even so I think I'll go down the red and white route as it adds variety and matches the main original B&W photo. Regarding the masks I remain in your debt. Maryin 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RidgeRunner Posted June 15, 2018 Author Share Posted June 15, 2018 (edited) Having taken another look she looks like she had a spiral pole. Maybe easier, provided I get the spacing correct. I just need to build the pitot first, with those fiddly vanes Martin Edited June 15, 2018 by RidgeRunner Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giorgio N Posted June 15, 2018 Share Posted June 15, 2018 Martin, you don't owe me anything, you helped a lot with my latest F-104 ! Regarding the pitot tube, I'd probably still apply the decals before the vanes, as it would be very hard, at least for someone as hamfisted as I am, to apply the decals without breaking the various bits... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RidgeRunner Posted June 15, 2018 Author Share Posted June 15, 2018 Thanks Giorgio. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RidgeRunner Posted June 15, 2018 Author Share Posted June 15, 2018 (edited) By the way, for those interested in Thuds there is a new book coming out later this year (hopefully) from Dennis R. Jenkins. I’ll update you all when I know more. Martin Edited June 15, 2018 by RidgeRunner 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry1954 Posted June 15, 2018 Share Posted June 15, 2018 On 6/14/2018 at 2:58 PM, Giorgio N said: Couple of words on the masks, since these have attracted some attention: yes, these masks are custom made and are cut using a computer-controlled cutter. It's a machine at the lower end of the price spectrum so can't really achieve the same results of other more sophisticated machines but can still be very useful for a modeller. The masks are the result of a collaboration between Martin an myself and were designed specifically for this model. From one side they are a way for me to thank Martin for the help he gave me with one of my previous models, on the other hand Martin is kind of a guinea pig for my masks, so it works both ways... 😁 As often happens in these things, the hard part was getting all settings right. Drawing them was easy enough, with the only small problem being that I don't have the kit in my stash (I have one but is built), so we had to exchange a few emails with drawings taken by Martin on the model while I had to email back the various drafts to check if these were fitting properly. Cutting was easy once I managed to find decent enought settings... I say decent enoiugh rather than good as I still had a few issues with the smallest letters. These issues resulted in Martin having to wait for a while, had I got the settings earlier, this model would be finished by now... sorry about that mate ! I'm planning the use of masks for the camo scheme of a model, I may add in that thread some pictures of the whole process, may be of use to anyone interested in buying a computer controlled cutter Thank you for that Giorgio and thanks again to @RidgeRunner for helping me get that answer! I'm quite interested in obtaining one of these cutters myslef! Cheers Terry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RidgeRunner Posted June 18, 2018 Author Share Posted June 18, 2018 (edited) A brief update on progress. It has been slow as I've had a business weekend, particularly because it was Father's Day! I've been around her and tidied up the paintwork, as well as adding a little more where I've realised I made at least one omission. The omission was that I had missed the fact that she had Red wing tips. This is clear in a forward B&W I have for her. So out came the airbrush again with the turps and MM Red! After extensive masking I've added these areas. In addition she needed to be tidied at the OD and NMF demarcation. Done. In addition I have removed the masking and sponge filler in the cockpit so that I could pant the remainder of the cockpit surround (Humbrol 140 Grey). I have also added the dark panels on the leading edge of the wing roots. They appear black in images. I will tone them tone, like everything, once decaled and varnished. I have also painted the wheel wells, using Humbrol 226. They will need another coat as well as weathering etc later. I have also printed the black outline decals for the balloon and the flash (below). These are on clear sheet and then airbrushed with gloss varnish (Humbrol Glosscote). These are drawn out in Photoshop and based on the masks I used. I simply scanned one of each, added a new layer, and drew over the top. Well, that's about it so far. I reckon next time it will be the second coat on the wheel wells and then applying the masks and painting the outlines for the serial, U.S. AIR FORCE, Buzz number and Star-and-bar. . After that it will be a gloss varnish coat ready for decaling. I'm going to be away this week for work and then early next week for a trip abroad for a wedding. I'll be back to her after that. ........ Martin Edited June 19, 2018 by RidgeRunner 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72modeler Posted June 18, 2018 Share Posted June 18, 2018 Martin and Giorgio, Have been watching the WIP with great interest. That it is one colorful Thud is an understatement; that it is another outstanding build is another. Giorgio- you have always been both helpful, positive, and informative in all of your posts that I have read, and Martin- your modeling skills are right up there with the best; certainly gives me something to strive for in my own modeling. The collaboration that you two have exhibited is just one more reason why I think this is the best modeling site on the web- there is a true band of brothers on BM! Can't wait to see her on her legs! (Don't forget to lower that bottom afterburner petal! Ha!) Mike 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RidgeRunner Posted June 18, 2018 Author Share Posted June 18, 2018 (edited) Thanks Mike. I really appreciate your sentiments. I agree, Giorgio is extremely giving and guiding. Martin PS: the lower petal ...... naturally Edited June 18, 2018 by RidgeRunner Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry1954 Posted June 18, 2018 Share Posted June 18, 2018 This is looking superb Martin. I notice you are starting another Thud too! 😁 Terry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RidgeRunner Posted June 18, 2018 Author Share Posted June 18, 2018 Thanks Terry. Yes, I will start Mr Toad soon. I also have plans for a B-model conversion of a Trumper. That one will be 54-0107, another test machine. I have acquired an old B from which I will use the nose as the donor. I need to get '155 done yet and she is taking a while. :(. Martin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RidgeRunner Posted June 29, 2018 Author Share Posted June 29, 2018 (edited) Here we go again...... You will all recall that Giorgio has experimented with his new toy and cut me some masks. I needed these because D-10 had all serials, "USAF" marks, Buzz number, "U.S.AIR FORCE" and star-and-bars sat within a narrow NMF border. The options were otherwise few and meant trying to get these printed on decal film and hoping the NMF (as a grey) would show through okay. These masks arrived a little while back from sunny Italy and I showed you how the others I had for the flashes, also from Giorgio, worked so well. Now it was time for the lettering etc. I started with the fin serial. My method was to determine the exact position and mark that with Tamiya tape. Then I applied the mask in the position that I believe to be correct, thus: As you can see, I followed with the Star-and-Bar on the rear fuselage. Thereafter I continued .... As you can see, they came away very cleanly. When I came to the under wing masks I hit a snag. My fault! D-10's main undercarriage doors run across the areas of the Star-and-Bar and "USAF" and so need appropriate masks. My plan is to sit these doors in place and then mask over, decal, and remove. My big error was that while I had painted the main doors I haven't yet painted the supplemental doors: So out with the airbrush and I will have to wait until the paint cures before continuing :(. Not to worry, I'm at least making progress. By the way, I haven't yet tackled the wheel wells ;). She now looks like this: I am debating in mind whether to airbrush these NMF areas or to use a "hairy stick". If I go the former (my probably route) I will clearly need to mask off the rest to avoid over run. Back again soon ....... Martin Edited June 29, 2018 by RidgeRunner 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry1954 Posted June 29, 2018 Share Posted June 29, 2018 38 minutes ago, RidgeRunner said: Top notch masking there Martin, really superb. I must look at one of those printers that @Giorgio N has used! I like your approach to the U/C doors. Re painting the internals, the airbrush route gets my vote, even though it means more sealing, then masking etc. Makes for a cleaner look. Although I always like to airbrush now, for U/C I have used both do internals first and mask out for externals, or do externals first, and then mask for doing internals. Probably tend to the latter more. Cheers Terry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RidgeRunner Posted June 29, 2018 Author Share Posted June 29, 2018 Thanks Terry. Close up shots are great - I just spotted a bit of NMF ingress on the upper starboard wing Corrected now! Martin 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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