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F-105D Thunderchief 58-1155 (D-10) 1/72 - last build update 11/07/18


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7 hours ago, 71chally said:

 

I would try out your idea of yellow for the colour and as the undercoat for the dayglo orange/red on some scrap, my thinking is that sometimes dayglo bleached a yellowy colour.

If it doesn't look how you want it then you won't have to go down that route, but you never know until you try it.

 

Thanks, mate. Normally I do give my models with dayglo a white and then a yellow undercoat. However, this machine has red, rather than orange, and that is why I'm inclined to omit the yellow. There is no evidence of yellowing in the images I have of the real machine. Having said that I have given an old kit fuselage a white undercoat so that I can test it first ;)..

 

Martin

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Hey Martin, have you seen this book? Might be useful especially if you're doing a few Thud's (I've not seen this book myself but I have some of their other books which I've found to be very good).

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On 4/24/2018 at 4:48 PM, RidgeRunner said:

Hi Terry,

 

Thanks for your encouragement :)

 

Yes, here is the thread:

Hi Martin,

Thanks for that, interesting thread which I will follow!

On with the Thud now though!

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I'm pleased report that Mrs RidgeRunner and I are back from our few days in Granada and I'm itching to get more of this model done. Hopefully, therefore, you'll some updates soon :)

 

Martin 

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A question for the wise out there!

 

The Thud (and other US types too) had very prominent pale (white/cream/light grey) edges around some of the canopy panels. The Thud seems to have had these around he opening canopy and the side windows of the windshield. What is the best way to paint/decal these, please?

 

@billn53

@Giorgio N

@71chally

@Wez

@Terry1954

and anyone else out there! 

 

Thanks,

 

Martin

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I usually paint it, I paint that edging first then apply the main colour afterwards.  

I guess that you could decal it and that probably would be a good way of getting a straight line against the clear parts.

 

I believe it is an off white/yellowy fiberglass reinforcing or joining strip.

 

Hope the hols went well, I though you meant Grenada for a moment!

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On ‎4‎/‎26‎/‎2018 at 10:46 PM, RidgeRunner said:

Thanks Wez. I've ordered it to add to the Thud library ;)

 

Martin

 

I got it, @Wez. Thanks for the tip off. It has many photos and diagrams I didn't have before.

 

Martin

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51 minutes ago, 71chally said:

I usually paint it, I paint that edging first then apply the main colour afterwards.  

I guess that you could decal it and that probably would be a good way of getting a straight line against the clear parts.

 

I believe it is an off white/yellowy fiberglass reinforcing or joining strip.

 

Hope the hols went well, I though you meant Grenada for a moment!

 

Thanks mate.

 

No, definitely Granada :). Very nice :)

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1 hour ago, RidgeRunner said:

 

I got it, @Wez. Thanks for the tip off. It has many photos and diagrams I didn't have before.

 

Martin

 

I decided I needed it to and I've added it to the library too, you're right, lots of useful details within.

 

I agree with James @71chally


The transparency would have a nylon reinforcing strip around the edges, I would expect the transparency to come with pilot holes drilled in the approximate location, final location and holes drilling out t final size and location on installation. This would allow for differences in tolerance between the transparency and structure (and there you were thinking these things were made on a jig)!

 

My approach would be to use a mask that included the outline.

 

Use the full mask and paint the interior colour.

Peel off the section for the reinforcement, paint that, remove the full mask.

 

Seal the whole lot with Klear, apply a full mask for the transparency area then apply the exterior colour.

 

Would that work?

 

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6 hours ago, RidgeRunner said:

What is the best way to paint/decal these, please?

I have access to (my wife's) artists lining pens. They can produce very fine lines but you would need a guide to keep the lines straight. Decals would work too I guess.

 

Terry

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4 hours ago, Wez said:

 

I decided I needed it to and I've added it to the library too, you're right, lots of useful details within.

 

I agree with James @71chally


The transparency would have a nylon reinforcing strip around the edges, I would expect the transparency to come with pilot holes drilled in the approximate location, final location and holes drilling out t final size and location on installation. This would allow for differences in tolerance between the transparency and structure (and there you were thinking these things were made on a jig)!

 

My approach would be to use a mask that included the outline.

 

Use the full mask and paint the interior colour.

Peel off the section for the reinforcement, paint that, remove the full mask.

 

Seal the whole lot with Klear, apply a full mask for the transparency area then apply the exterior colour.

 

Would that work?

 

 

That sounds workable, Wez. Thanks.

 

Martin

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4 hours ago, Wez said:

I decided I needed it to and I've added it to the library too, you're right, lots of useful details within.

 

What I still haven't found are more images of 58-1155 D-10 :(. I keep searching but fear I have all there is now.

 

Martin

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9 hours ago, RidgeRunner said:

 

What I still haven't found are more images of 58-1155 D-10 :(. I keep searching but fear I have all there is now.

 

Martin

It was actually the first thing I looked for when I got the book.

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So I lied a little with my comments about having a break. It is true, I will be away very soon and won't get back to this build (or any other) for a week or so, but I have had a little time for a little more work on the Thud :).

 

Some will recall that I had some questions about reproducing International Red. I intend to use Testors (Modelmaster) thinned with Low Odour Artists Turpentine and, as recommended (of course) I've run a test on an old fuselage. My real question was whether to undercoat with white and yellow or simply the white. The image below shows that the white alone is perfect, although I think it is still a little orange.

 

Thudbuild39

 

Unfortunately despite taking the shot in full sun I haven't managed to catch the fluorescence. It looks very similar to Humbrol Orange Lining, which I used for my F-86H previous. In real life it is actually very fluorescent. :).

 

Back to the build. I've now got the anti-dazzle Olive drab on and the black area directly around the canopy and just to the rear. In addition I've applied the black fin tip and the black areas (they appear that way in my images) to the ventral fin. The fin is masked off, as you can see, ready for when I get to the NMF stage, following the Fluorescent Red application. I intend to use Humbrol 27002, Polished Aluminium.  This is how she is sat on the shelf and awaiting masks for the next outing of the airbrush.

 

Thudbuild40

 

Now I have to spend a little time on my MIG, which you can see above. She has had a Flory pale wash, as she was operating in a desert environment and I need to keep things light. After that I will have a short time to get the Thud wing tanks filled and sanded.

 

Martin

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1 hour ago, RidgeRunner said:

Thanks you "likers". She's starting to look colourful, isn't she!!! :)

 

Martin

She is starting to look very colourful Martin. I especially like the orange on the first picture above.

 

Is that a Thunderflash I can see behind, Greek I think?

 

Cheers

 

Terry

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I just dragged the colour photo on the previous page over your test model and it looks fine.

Not exactly scientific given all the variations / permutations and otherations but good enough for Government work I'd say.

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On 5/15/2018 at 5:12 PM, Terry1954 said:

She is starting to look very colourful Martin. I especially like the orange on the first picture above.

 

Is that a Thunderflash I can see behind, Greek I think?

 

Cheers

 

Terry

Hi Terry, 

 

Yes, an Italeri RF-84F which was one of my first builds after my 30+ year modelling hiatus. It has a thinned forward fuselage incorporating an Airfix canopy, which is much closer to reality. I have another in the pile that I am intending to build one day after scribing the panels etc. My Greek build was to mimic the first  ‘Flash that I ever saw fly, when she (37682) landed at Athens in September 1982. 

 

Martin

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19 hours ago, Scimitar said:

I just dragged the colour photo on the previous page over your test model and it looks fine.

Not exactly scientific given all the variations / permutations and otherations but good enough for Government work I'd say.

 

Thanks Scimitar. I agree and it’ll be going on once I receive my masks.

 

Martin

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On 5/8/2018 at 4:55 PM, RidgeRunner said:

 

I got it, @Wez. Thanks for the tip off. It has many photos and diagrams I didn't have before.

 

Martin

 

This book does have some particularly good 3-view scale drawings. Worth it for them alone!

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