Opinions/Advice needed regarding putty, scribing tools & others....

[AeroNautique]

Just wondered if anybody could offer some advice about a small number of items, the first of which is putty...

 

I used two types in my younger years - squadron green when available (was rare) and Tamiya. The Tamiya product was easy to work with as I recall, but once sanded and conformal was prone to shrinking over time, which meant there was often evidence of a gap that had been filled once the kit was painted...this was quite frustrating. Can anybody offer suggestions as to which product would generally be the Modeler's choice these days please? I'm hoping the Tamiya issue was user-induced and not a fault of the product itself.

 

Also, regarding Scribing. This is new to me, my teenage attempts were rather crude and it was often better just to ignore the lack of detail (easy enough for me with 1/72) than to slash the plastic in whatever razor-like fashion I practiced at the time. Again, am hoping members could offer advice on which way to turn for a tool that is best suited for 1/48 aircraft panel lines?

 

There are a couple of other things I wanted to bring up, but they escape me at this time of the night...I'll add some more later. Many thanks to those of you who've taken the time to read this and can impart some wisdom....

 

 

Launchpad

 

 

Edited March 7, 2018 by Launchpad
Typo

[LotusArenco]

The putty I use really depends on whereabouts on the model I’m filling.

Awkward gaps in hard to reach areas I’d use ‘Deluxe Materials Perfect plastic Putty’ which whilst far from being ‘Perfect’ is water based and is still removable using a wet cotton bud weeks later (if need be). It can still be sanded down normally and leaves a fairly good (but not perfect) finish. Great for areas where normal sanding down will be a pain like in a tight concave curve.

 

For normal run-of-the-mill filling, fuselage halves etc., I like good old fashioned ‘Revell Plasto’. Very similar to Squadron green, but seems to dry with less pitting. Like Squadron green it’s also solvent based, so bites in and attaches itself nicely to the plastic and after drying sands down to a nice finish. I’ve used bog-standard Humbrol filler which is also very similar and gives good results (IMHO). Don’t go trying to eek out a years old tube of half dried stuff, make sure it’s fairly fresh and soft. I’ve not had problems with Revell Plasto or Humbrol filler shrinking.

 

For areas that I’m going to re-scribe (or if I’m just in a hurry) medium/thick superglue works wonders. Cheap stuff from Poundland works fine. Just remember to sand it down fairly soon before it dries too hard or it’ll be harder than the actual plastic and may leave a slight ‘ridge’ that’ll be a pain in the bottom to get rid of.

 

As for scribing, I’m happy with a ‘Trumpeter scriber’ or a very basic ‘compass point’ in a pin vise. These both leave a ‘V’ shaped groove and push the plastic up and to the sides rather than dig a trench like channel. If needed after scribing I’ll go over the lines again with a thin razor saw to clean out and give a more flat bottomed ‘U’ shaped channel rather than a ‘V’. A quick swipe with a sander will get rid of any plastic that had been raised above the surface followed by a spruce up with an old toothbrush to get rid of any sanding dust.

 

Have a nose on Youtube for scribing panel lines, there are as many different tools and techniques as there are modellers. This one is virtually exactly how I do it myself.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KvdJ6R3iRRQ

 

 

Mart

[Max Headroom]

Fillers first. I mainly use Green Stuff, Plasto or Milliput. I’m now also experimenting with Perfect Plastic Putty (PPP).

 

It depends on the task in hand as to which I use. My ‘go to’ is Greenstuff, or Plasto when available (I consider both to be interchangeable). PPP I’ve found to be best for small gaps etc. 

 

For scribing, Milliput is best as it sets harder. It’s also the best for making ‘lumps and bumps’.  However as a two part epoxy you need to mix in equal amounts. My method is to roughly mix and then roll into a thin sausage. I then fold it into itself and repeat the process several times. As you work it, the sausage becomes warmer and easier to knead. I spend about five minutes mixing it up this way - just think of it as rolling out filo pastry. It’s also therapeutic!

 

As for scribing, I have an Olfa Cutter. I believe that Tamiya and maybe Trumpeter have similar. The advantage of this type of cutter is that it cuts a v shaped groove so there’s no ridge that needs removal. If you use a needle point it’ll ‘part’ the plastic leaving a ridge that needs sanding or slicing off. Simple straight lines can be achieved with a flexible file or even Dymo Tape. Curved lines are something I’ve yet to master!

 

Hopefully the above will be useful. I look forward to seeing your results.

 

Trevor