Jump to content
This site uses cookies! Learn More

This site uses cookies!

You can find a list of those cookies here: mysite.com/cookies

By continuing to use this site, you agree to allow us to store cookies on your computer. :)

Recommended Posts

Excellent! Nice to see the progress.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The new, better detailed one pice rear door arrived back from the resin caster yesterday. Now cleaned up and fitted with the hinges from the kit door. Nice hot weather ideal for spraying too.

 

145849.jpg  145909.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

IMG_1527.jpg IMG_1528.jpg

 

Some slight modification has been done on the roof rack to accommodate the tyre stacks. All the cross bars over the 'tyre valley'[not a technical term but it works for me] have been removed to allow a free space into which to drop the tyres which are cast in blocks of three. I'm now on version 2 of these, the first were solid with a cast-in wheel [the darker primer coated ones] but as you can imagine weight was a big issue. Now they are like a stack of those mints with a hole in the middle with a drop-in wheel rim to each end. I've gone for 15" rims with 4 options of different tyres along with a couple of sets of 13" rims & tyres I had lying around just to see how it held up with the weight. I'm also thinking the tyre stacks would be usefull for dramas too.

 

The van body was masked and sprayed TS51 Racing Blue yesterday but it isn't quite dark enough. it looks like either trying Tamiya Dark Blue or a custom mix for the Rothmans blue. I know HB does various shades too.

 

As an aside, my usual image hosting site Dropshots is playing up so I'm giving Postimage.org a try. 

Edited by mbdesignart
typo

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Looking good Mark, I too was having problems with Photobucket and am also using Postimages, what a dream, so easy to use...

 

Colin

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Tyres look really good - Do I see some SP61's in amongst them?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

After initially using the wrong blue I ordered a can of Porsche Dalmation Blue 329 and I'm pleased with the result. Slight issue with some adhesive residue being left on the model from the Washi tape I used as a fill-in mask, it must have reacted with the solvent in the paint. Next up, after this has been left a few days to harden, is masking to spray the window surrounds and rear arches. 

 

.IMG_1529.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

That looks superb

 

  Roger

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

There is some incredible work going on here.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice paint. Looking forward to more, please.

 

This afternoon, in a commercial yard off the A15 this afternoon, I think this truck is what I saw...

DKvkn_tX0AAbSzw.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

Yes dear Frank Williams, I've spoken to him many times whilst on Air Traffic Control at Silverstone, both before and after the accident, great man. But the team is going through some tough times at present.

Oh the build is going very well too. You must have spent a fortune on wheels & tyres for this one!

Edited by PatW

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks all for the comments and feedback, this build is going a bit slower than I had hoped.

Pete, don't tell me that is the only photo you took? Next time do a whole walkaround.

PatW, fortunately I'm at the sharp end of wheel & tyre production and those are either test shots or cast offs. I hate to think what truck modellers spend on multi-axle trailer units, or rivet counters on every type of Spitfire, but each to his own area of the hobby - it keeps us quiet 😁

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I found the picture on line. Google ISO Marlboro.

I only had a quick glimpse of the truck as I drove past before it was obscured by

vegetation and fences. I caught the name though and it intrigued me.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Pete, Shame there is no image of the front of the transporter, it would have made an interesting build.

Another tiring 🙄 day on the rally service van, tyre stacks and rims painted and assembled. The chassis and cab interior is all done bar a couple of decals to be applied to the dash, I'll upload some images once my camera battery has been recharged. 

 

tstack.jpg

 

Trackfull.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

This is getting beyond a joke. Having masked the white to spray the blue using a combination of Tamiya and Washi tape when removed there was deposits of adhesive left on the paint surface. I put this down to the solvents in the rattle can [Halfords special colour mix] affecting the Washi tape as this is a paper tape. I managed to wipe the adhesive off with WD40. Now having resprayed the white [Simoniz rattle can] just using Tamiya tape as a mask it is an even worse state with a near overall coating of adhesive from the tape. 

 

What are other people who use rattle cans using for masking tape? Click the images to enlarge.

IMG_1536.jpg  IMG_1535.jpg

 

Edited by mbdesignart
image info added

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ouch... I've used Tamiya tape over Tamiya rattle cans with no issues. But I've done only one model so that's not a vast amount of experience.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

OMG Mark, how awful!

Surprised this project hasn't become "wall art" like some of my problem builds! 

Since we don't have Halfords or Simoniz rattle cans here, don't know what to say. Are they lacquer or enamels?

I use rattle cans exclusively, Tamiya, Testors mostly. For resin I use Dura-Coat, an automotive touch up spray.

For masking, I've used 3M Fine line tape, or regular masking tape. I've also used Tamiya masking sheet, (the yellow one).

The one that gives me the most problems is the masking tape. Upon removal it has left the imprint of the tape on the paint,

but not the actual the glue from the tape. Perhaps some residue from the WD-40 was still in the blue paint?

If it makes you feel any better, I ALWAYS have problems with painting resin. I do all the precautions, do all the prep,

but there's always a "surprise" waiting for me!

Frustrating I know. But as always, looking forward to your next post.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Having tried various 'solvents' to remove the residue it appears to have etched the blue paint, resulting in it being sanded back for yet another coat of paint. It can't be the resin as the kit is half Italeri plastic and all areas are affected. The blue Halfords [mixed by an auto paint manufacturer for them] auto spray, of unknown chemical make up but no doubt acrylic based due to Health & Safety regs in the land of namby pambies, was left for well over a week to harden. I tried the Tamiya sheet previously when masking the white but that left the glue behind too. I have some 3M auto tape on order which I'm hoping will do the job otherwise it will be a case of seeing if the Transit will stick to a brick wall😠 At this rate I may go back to armour modelling and coat everything with mud!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I was thinking that I hadn't masked and sprayed before, then remembered a bit of the Cuda where I had to. The bit masked was using Humbrol matt black which is also labelled primer, so I can't guarantee any great knowledge of how Halfords paint will react based on that. But looking at the Halfords spray cans, they do say to allow 2 weeks before finishing and removing overspray after you've used it - it's just a thought but maybe the paint hadn't fully cured before you added the masking tape, even after a week?

 

The other thing I did was to mask the edges of the area, but cover the bulk of it with kitchen foil, fully sealed around the edges with (Revell 6 and 10mm) masking tape. Admittedly that doesn't fully cure the problem of the tape reacting with the paint, but it does save on tape and also gives less of an area at risk of reacting or where the paint might pull off with the tape. That tape was on for 4 weeks, so plenty of opportunity for things going pear shaped - I may just have been very lucky.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That's not what you want to see

I've used Tamiya and Halfords rattle cans a few times since I've been back modelling and have had no probs.

I use Tamiya tape for the fine stuff and Frog tape for the wider stuff, I only usually leave it a couple of days as well

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The 3M tape has arrived, a vinyl tape so that should be solvent proof. I've stuck a test strip across both the blue and white and will leave this overnight before going full out on another masking job. One of my brothers who was into the custom car scene years ago has mentioned bag sealing tape, as used by bakers, butchers etc. A couple have mentioned Frog Tape, although having used it for house decorating I hadn't thought about giving it a go on models.

It is interesting to note the comments about differing tape removal times from 'as soon as possible' to 'a couple of weeks, or longer'. It appears to be a case of what works for one person my not work for everyone, which is true across so many areas of model making. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
40 minutes ago, mbdesignart said:

The 3M tape has arrived, a vinyl tape so that should be solvent proof. I've stuck a test strip across both the blue and white and will leave this overnight before going full out on another masking job. One of my brothers who was into the custom car scene years ago has mentioned bag sealing tape, as used by bakers, butchers etc. A couple have mentioned Frog Tape, although having used it for house decorating I hadn't thought about giving it a go on models.

It is interesting to note the comments about differing tape removal times from 'as soon as possible' to 'a couple of weeks, or longer'. It appears to be a case of what works for one person my not work for everyone, which is true across so many areas of model making. 

Frog tape will give you the same result as you've already experienced .  I thought it was only me who had this problem , but it would appear not .  Incidentally , my thought is that it's the adhesive on the tape which somehow attacks the surface of the Halfords paint , since I use Mr Color , which is lacquer-based , over the same tape with no issues .

 

John Green

Nantwich , Cheshire

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Can't comment on the masking tape, just sprayed the interior of 2 JLTRT Gresley coaches using lifecolour acrylics over a Halfords gloss base and was already dreading sealing the interior with masking tape, what i'm reading on here's not helping ease the worries of paint lifting.

 

 For removing sticky gunk residue from tape etc I always start by using lighter fluid & cotton buds, did the trick when I was a kid and still works. Just don't smoke when using it!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×