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Revell 1/72 F4U-1A Corsair + diorama


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Good day,

 

I've finished this one at last. It gave me quite a few headaches, especially when I broke the cockpit canopy... :swear:

I took several weeks to get a replacement, and at some point I thought I would have to buy a whole new kit for just the canopy, or spend twice the price of the kit to order a replacement canopy from the UK. Hannants' range of products is excellent, but 13.85 British Pound for overseas delivery is a bit steep :repuke: 

 

So on to the kit. The kit isn't bad, but it's not good either. It's inaccurate in several aspects, sporting F4U-1D details which needs to be fixed (two underwing droptanks & pylons being the most obvious example). The fit isn't all that great, which was also the cause of me breaking the canopy. The fit is a bit tight, and to get it in place one has to press down quite hard, and I pressed too hard. Fit in several other places was very bad. However any seasoned modeler will be able to fix it with some strategic sanding and PPP. Another area of this kit that get's scrutinized often is the "tricky" landing gear. However I had no troubles there. All-in-all, like I said, not bad, though I won't build one of these again unless I'm being paid to do so. I'd rather try a Tamiya next.

 

This brings me to Corsair difficulties not related to the kit... the paint scheme.

I'm not an airbrush modeler (yet?), so you can guess how tricky it is to do a paint job which required very soft transition from one color to the next.

I think I did OK, with somewhat soft demarcation lines, however it's not really all that convincing.

 

I used Humbrol acrylics, and wet / dry brushed the color transitioned areas (same process as dry brush, then dip into some water before application).

 

Other things I tried for the first time include the paint chipping (hairspray technique), and sun-bleaching the US star and bar on the wing top. This is what I was after

 

Corsair-_VF-17-pilot-_Ike-_Kepford_2.jpg

 

Enough talk from me, here's the end result

 

100_2116i.jpg

 

20180303_161441ii.jpg

 

20180303_161524ii.jpg

 

20180303_162204i.jpg

 

20180303_162245i.jpg

 

20180303_162351ii.jpg

 

Cheers

Jimmy

 

Edited by JimmyZ
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Wow!  As a brush painter I'd be very happy with that finish.  I must admit I am rubbish at weathering, but you have made a really good job of this.

 

How did you do the radio antenna wires?, I have tried this without much success and a lot of resulting Anglo-Saxon.

 

Andrew

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I do not use an airbrush either, but i am still happy with my models. I really like your build! I wanted to try the Revell Corsair, but you are just the last of not too flattering reviews, so I think I will abstain. I still have an Academy one to build, and the Tamiya seems to be the logical step thereafter.

Excellent show!

JR

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Nice paint job. I always admire well finished brush painted models. For the transitions between colours, you could also try getting some glaze medium which allows control over the opacity of the paint layer. It's great for blending and colour transition work.

I built a 1:48 Tamiya F4U-1A last year as my first model back in the hobby - I would thoroughly recommend it.

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That looks great. If I may be allowed one small critique, it's the wear on the prop blades. Prop wear from the coral sand would be on the rear of the blades. There may have been a bit on the front, but mostly on the rear face.

 

 

Chris

Edited by dogsbody
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Thanks everyone.

 

22 hours ago, Andwil said:

Wow!  As a brush painter I'd be very happy with that finish.  I must admit I am rubbish at weathering, but you have made a really good job of this.

 

How did you do the radio antenna wires?, I have tried this without much success and a lot of resulting Anglo-Saxon.

 

Andrew

Thanks Andwil. I used stretched sprue.

If you're not familiar with it, it's a piece of clear sprue that was heated up over a flame until it almost melts, then somewhat quickly pulled apart. It will stretch to a very thin string of plastic.

The first one or two times it's tricky, but becomes extremely easy to do after a few tries. Remember to take safety precautions (i.e. don't touch melting plastic with bare hands).

 

12 hours ago, dogsbody said:

That looks great. If I may be allowed one small critique, it's the wear on the prop blades. Prop wear from the coral sand would be on the rear of the blades. There may have been a bit on the front, but mostly on the rear face.

 

 

Chris

 

Thanks Chris. I guess that makes sense. Now to fight the urge to go fix it...prop isn't glued on and can be pulled off. Ah I'll think about it.

 

Cheers

Jimmy 

Edited by JimmyZ
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  • 3 years later...

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