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MFH Alfa Romeo 159M


Endeavor

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On 4/24/2018 at 10:03 PM, JeroenS said:

Niiice! The leather seat must be a challenge. Maybe you need a little larger piece on top, so you can fold/roll the edges in over itself, to go over the seam. 

Excellent idea.  If my current plan fails, and I have to begin again, I'll try it.

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7 hours ago, Endeavor said:

Excellent idea.  If my current plan fails, and I have to begin again, I'll try it.

Credit goes to @Spiny and @s.e.charles for introducing me to the terms "beading" and "piping" in my VW Samba's WIP!

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11 hours ago, PROPELLER said:

Good news Endeavor, thanks!

The opposite would be really a pity...

Dan.

 

Here are a few photographs of the louvers.  I'm pushing the limits of my camera and ability.

 

The louvers will require only a very small bit of work.  The quality of all of the resin parts is outstanding.

 

Below is the top of the bonnet.

 

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The underside of the bonnet

 

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The underside with some back lighting

 

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The bonnet on the model

 

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The lower louvered panel loosely positioned 

 

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From the side

 

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Below is the inside of the lower panel.  It has louvers both on the side of the body and, on the right side of the photograph, under the engine.

 

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Edited by Endeavor
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Here is the display case.  It is made of 3/16" (4.8mm) acrylic sheet.  It provides excellent protection without drawing attention away from the model.

 

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Below is the adhesive solvent and needle applicator.  

 

The edges of the acrylic were finished with a router.  This leaves tiny, almost invisible, grooves perpendicular to the plane of the acrylic sheet so the solvent will flow evenly throughout the joint.  You place the two sheets in position and, squeezing the applicator very gently, draw the needle along the outside edge of the joint.  The solvent flows into the joint and forms an almost instant bond.  If done correctly, the result is a bond with a mirror-like finish. 

 

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Edited by Endeavor
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  • 1 year later...

 

Below are the three major steering wheel components.  The two rim parts are flexible vinyl.  Holes are cast into the vinyl rims for 15 rivets.  The PE part has notches for the rivets which position the PE piece properly within the two rims.

 

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The PE component fits into recesses in the two vinyl parts.  It's a stretch. 

 

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Below you see the parts positioned together and held in place with two wire pieces through two rivet holes.  The recesses for the PE component in the two vinyl pieces are too shallow, so the outside edges of the two rim pieces do not touch.  The vinyl is more difficult to work with than metal.

 

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Below you see the painted vinyl pieces, spokes, the hub, and the steering column which has been drilled at both ends to accept the hub and the steering column shaft.  You also see the flat rivets.  The shafts of the rivets are 0.3mm and the heads are 0.6mm.  The package on the right also contains larger round head rivets which will be used later for another purpose.

 

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Assembly is a challenge because the vinyl is stiff and must be stretched for the PE piece to fit into the recesses.  I used the rivets to position the PE piece and to hold the vinyl in it's new stretched shape.

 

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The second vinyl piece fixed into position by the rivets.

 

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After the components were secured with CA, there was a gap of 1.3mm around the outer edge of the rim.  It was filled with two part putty.

 

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The completed. wheel.

 

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David, I am overjoyed to see you bring this back to life ! :worthy:

As expected, you have solved another knotty problem with surgically beautiful work.

Please tell me there will be regular updates to this beautiful and significant car. The world cries out for a highly accurate Pocher Alfa too.....

C

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  • 7 months later...

The fuel filler cap is hinged like the prototype.  I made two folds in the very small PE part, drilled five holes, and fixed a 0.4mm flat head rivet in place.

 

The weathered wash finish was largely worn off from all the handling.

 

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It opens. 

 

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The spark plug wires are 0.6mm.  Additional ignition wires are 0.3mm. 

 

Below you see that the wires from the loom to the plugs have been set in place.  Installing the wires from the magnetos to the loom takes a bit more time.  There are two magnetos, each supplying spark to four of the spark plugs.  

 

In the photo  you see that after drilling four holes in each magneto, the wires for each were fixed with CA.  The  next step was to feed the eight 0.6mm wires into a 3.5 mm hole in the loom.  The photograph reveals the challenge.

 

You can also see the smaller wire loom below and one of the 0.3mm wires that run to each of the magnetos.

 

The routing of the spark plug wires on the prototypes varies.

 

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Below you see all the plug wires in place.

 

Notice that the shrink tube hose pipes and the hose clamps need further work.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Below are the parts required to connect the flexible brake lines from the brakes to the chassis.

 

The two PE parts on the left mount on the chassis for the front brakes.  They are 8.6mm long.   The two PE parts on the right mount the connections on the chassis for the rear brakes.  They are 3.8mm long.

 

The white metal hardware parts - MFH calls them “rivets”- are 2.5mm X 1.5mm (on the left) and 3mm X 1.5mm (on the right).

 

The 0.5mm nickel silver wire is used to connect the 1mm vinyl tube to the hardware.

 

The hardware connections to the brake hydraulic cylinders were installed on the backing plates earlier.

 

The only component missing from the photo is the 0.6mm wire solder that will connect these assemblies to the master cylinder.

 

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MFH provides dimples to locate the holes that must be drilled in the white metal parts.

 

In the two photographs below you see the dimples and the 0.5mm holes I drilled into four of the seven AL5“rivets” and four of the seven AL6 “rivets”.  The holes in the AL6 “rivets” will be enlarged to 0.6mm.

 

The AL6 “rivets” require that a 0.6mm hole is drilled on one end to accept the post from the AL5 “rivet” and a second 0.6mm hole on the other end to accept the wire solder brake line that runs to the master cylinder.

 

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To drill the second 0.6mm hole in the two AL6 rivets, I cut them off from the sprue, filed the blank end flat, made a dimple with a punch, and drilled first with a 0.53mm bit and then with a 0.6mm bit.  But, then I realized that it was easier to just drill the first hole through to the other end.

 

In the photo below, the pin vice appears to be drilling at an incorrect angle because I only have two hands to hold the pliers, pin vice, and the camera.

 

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One of the two front brake connections assembled.

 

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Three of the rear brake line connection components on my finger.

 

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One rear assembly completed.

 

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Both complete.

 

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In the photograph below, the vinyl lines that run to the the brakes have been slipped over the 0.5mm nickel silver wire.

 

A piece the 0.6 wire solder that will run to the master cylinder has been inserted into the top left assembly.

 

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The next step will be to attach the assemblies to the chassis.

 

 

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Just found this thread, beautiful work. 
 

I hadn’t seen a 1/12 MFH car build before and you’ve got me hankering after one now!

 

regards

 

Nick

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Adding some detail...

 

I learned that I should have studied the plans more carefully as I neglected to drill a few holes.   In addition, the building sequence outlined by MFH is much better than the plan I devised.  Installing some of the small parts would have been much easier if I had not tried to be clever.

 

Below you see the two lines I installed that run from the carburetor into the air intake.  The lines are 1.0mm wire solder.

 

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Below are six pipes and a brass rod that connects the outboard starter to the crankshaft.  I drilled two holes, filed off the lines left from the molds, and cleaned up the ends to ensure good CA joins.

 

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Two of the pipes are connected with heat shrink tubes and PE clamps.

 

Below you see one shrink tube and clamp installed and a look at the PE parts.  Notice that three of the PE parts have had the remnants of the sprue connections filed off and two "ears" folded up.  The PE parts are 0.8mm wide.

 

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Below are the two pipes with heat shrink and clamps installed.

 

The heat shrink tubing was applied with the gentle prodding of a soldering iron.  The clamps were attached using two pairs of pliers.

 

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The steering arm was installed.  There is a pocket in the firewall to provide clearance.

 

These two photographs show the empty space between the engine and the radiator that will soon be occupied by four of the parts shown above.

 

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